hybridbear

Every Fusion has GPS built in, that's how EV+ works and Sync Services Directions. EV+ is not always advantageous. Check out some of the older threads about it. Depending on your commute and how you drive you can end up with worse MPG by using EV+.

I took pictures of our rotors for comparison. Ford Focus Electric ~13,000 miles 99% Lifetime Brake Score over the last ~8500 miles ~900 Lifetime Regen Miles Ford Fusion Energi ~10,500 miles 99% Lifetime Brake Score since day 1 ~400 Lifetime Regen miles The Fusion has much less regen miles since it's used more for highway trips whereas the Focus Electric is 100% driven around the city. The Fusion rotors also look newer. I'd be curious to see if other owners could post pics along with their brake score & regen miles for comparison, particularly owners with higher miles.

Are they grooved to the touch?

If you're still under 3/36 warranty you can buy an ESP from Anderson-Koch Ford or Flood Ford for cheaper than your dealer.

What does the strut tower brace do? Do you have a picture of it that is a little more zoomed out?

Have you involved the forum Ford rep? FordServiceCA for Canadians.

The TSB calls for parts replacement under certain circumstances, such as when the issue affects a rear window. Have you had the parts replaced?

What do you do that triggers the fault to appear? What code is being stored by the car? You can read Ford's proprietary codes with FORScan.

I hate logging in to that site and try to avoid it whenever possible...

Please see this topic: http://fordfusionhybridforum.com/topic/9731-elevation-data-on-the-mft-screen/ This thread will be closed to prevent duplication.

Are you sitting crooked in the seat? I get pain because sometimes I accidentally end up sitting with my hips twisted a bit in the seat so that my right leg is farther away from the pedals than my left leg. This then causes a lot of pain for me. I try to make a conscious effort to make sure that I'm sitting straight in the seat when going for longer drives.

So sorry to hear that. Appliances aren't built like they used to be. We have older appliances in our apartment that run great. They consume more electricity, but we have no maintenance issues. My parents have found the same thing. They have a few newer appliances which have given them nothing but problems, the other appliances that have been around for over 30 years work great!

In town the brake score has a fairly large impact. Higher brake scores mean more energy recovered and less energy wasted by the brake pads as heat. How are your brake scores?

If it is the panic button then pushing the panic button again should stop it. I'm not sure about pushing unlock.

Is this because there was a recall on the 2013 fuel system? Would that impact the ratings?

Are you accidentally bumping the panic button on your key fob? I've had it get bumped in my pocket and set the alarm off while doing things around the house or while at the store, etc.

85% is really low!! Shoot for 100% on every stop and you'll see your MPGs increase. We had a Lifetime of 99% in the black FFH over 18,000 miles and we have a Lifetime of 99% in the Focus Electric & Fusion Energi with a combined 25,000+ miles now. On the highway this is true. In the city you want maximum EV operation. Exactly! In the city try to accelerate using the ICE and then once you reach your cruising speed back off on the pedal so that the ICE turns off. Cruise along in EV mode until you have to stop. Then accelerate using the ICE again. The only time it makes sense to accelerate EV only is if you're going from stop sign to stop sign in the city. Then having the ICE come on for only a few seconds actually depletes the HVB (instead of charging it) and lowers MPG by burning gas. The ICE requires a significant burst of power from the HVB to start it and it takes a bit for it to charge the HVB back up just to cover that power use. I try to control my acceleration so that when the ICE comes on it stays on for awhile. And then when it shuts off I try to keep it off as long as possible until I know I can turn it on for a significant amount of time again.

Often conventional cars don't have a variable speed AC compressor, the hybrids do. This improves hybrid efficiency. It is an electric compressor and not a belt driven one like your Pilot likely has. It is quite loud when it is pulling a lot of amps. On the MyView screen you can display how many kW of power are going to the "Climate" which means the compressor. You should see a correlation between the noise level and kW of power going to the compressor. If you have MFT you can also see this on the Power Flow screen based on how big the blue circle is going to "Climate".

There is a "LIfetime Summary" when you turn off the 2013s, but it can be reset. You may want to reset it so that you can see what your "Lifetime" MPG & Brake Score will be with the car. The Owner's Manual describes how to reset it. The Ford Owner page also has helpful videos about the displays to help you get the most value out of them. The 2013s have by far the most information accessible on the dash.

Sometimes you get a pump where even on the lowest speed setting it clicks off immediately and won't put any gas in. That's the most annoying.

When the car is on the highway it will go into negative split mode (described in the power flow screen thread). In this mode the generator motor consumes electrical energy and turns it into mechanical energy to control the ICE RPM and to route the ICE torque through the planetary gearset to the wheels. The traction motor then consumes some of this mechanical energy and converts it to electrical energy which supplies the generator motor. This is why highway driving in our car is inherently less efficient than the Accord Hybrid which uses a clutch to circumvent the electric motors and their conversion losses when driving at highway speeds. This adds additional mechanical complications to the system but improves MPGs. The new Chevy Volt will behave similarly.

I would want to have the dealer reprogram the BCM anytime you change the 12V battery. As GrySql posted in the factoids thread the car has a complex monitoring system for the 12V battery. The system has a number of parameters which the dealer can configure using IDS. They include things like: battery model, CCA, etc. This allows the BCM to calculate 12V SOC with a greater degree of accuracy so that it knows how to charge the 12V battery and when to turn on the BS Message and shut systems down to prevent a dead battery from occurring. If you change the 12V battery to one with different specs and don't update the BCM you may have issues. The BCM also tracks the 12V battery age and can adjust its charging algorithm as the 12V battery ages and thus may have less capacity. This is why we're not supposed to charge the 12V by connecting a charger directly to the battery. Doing so can mess up the sensor that's attached to the negative terminal.

I got food poisoning from something I ate yesterday. I didn't have a very restful night, as you can imagine. I am starting to feel better today, but I'm still not feeling great. This is the first time I've had food poisoning, and I have to say that it sucks! Does anyone have any "funny" food poisoning stories? Or other stories that they want to share?

This just goes to show that every car has quality issues. http://www.abcactionnews.com/money/consumer/taking-action-for-you/the-toyota-prius-came-with-a-problem-toyota-says-it-is-not-a-safety-issue-not-every-driver-agrees

The radio doesn't turn off when you open the driver's door? This should trigger it to shut down.