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Hey All, I'm new to the forum and just picked up my 2013 SE. I searched around the net and I don't see an obvious post anywhere about tips/techniques to get the EV charge up. I know the braking helps, but does also going into gas mode help? High RPM? Other tricks? Another thing I think the answer is no to, is there anyway on this model (non-plug in) to charge the EV batteries externally or are these special and "untouchable?" Thanks and sorry if these are noob questions!

So my 2019 Ford Fusion Titanium Hybrid has been perfect (except for the usual evap system code that I've heard is common) until last night. I unlocked it with the fob, got in, and noticed that the dash lights didn't come on as usual. I held the brake and hit the start button and everything came up just fine, so I figured it was just a glitch. This morning I couldn't get in and the car seemed dead (no keypad lights or any sign of waking up), so I thought maybe it was a fob battery or sensing problem. Anyway, I waited a bit and tried again a few times, and it finally unlocked. The dash lights still didn't come on but I was able to start the car after a couple of tries. So, does this sound like symptoms of a bad 12-volt battery in the trunk? Or does this sound like it could be worse? Thanks! EDIT: NEVER MIND! I'm embarrassed to tell you it was just the key fob battery, don't know why I didn't think of that originally. I took the car to Batteries & Bulbs and they checked the 12v battery in the trunk, starter, and alternator on a little machine and they all showed fine. I was puzzled and started describing what had happened, and the woman helping me immediately said "let's check the fob." Turned out the battery was bad, so I'm sure that's why the dash lights didn't come on and everything seemed dead. I'm a little surprised, though; don't other cars warn you when the fob battery is getting weak? My Honda Goldwing motorcycle does. What's worse is that on the way to B&B, the yellow wrench warning light popped up on the dash. I checked the manual and it said "Powertrain issue - take car to dealer immediately." That really scared me, worrying about the hybrid powertrain and wondering how much it was going to cost...

I bought a 2017 FFH with 13048,795 miles. The battery that was in it was 60ah lead. With 10 days using the FFH I started to receive messages informing that I was turning off the sound to save energy. Days later the battery died for good. I bought another new one of 60ah and to my frustration with 15 days of use I started to receive the alert again that I would turn off the sound to save the battery and days later the battery died again. I took it to some specialists and they scanned the car, out of several errors that showed the only one that remained was: B1165:15-2B - Left front running board light output signal. Could this error be causing a possible drain on my 12v battery? Has anyone ever experienced this? Is there any update that will fix this problem?

In my experience of the whole situation, I started out just for funsies asking the dealership for a quote on replacement. They came back with over $5000 just for the freaking battery! Not including any labor. I purchased a high voltage hybrid battery for my 2017 Fusion from Ebay at a cost of around $2000. This included price of the battery, plus freight, plus core. Doner vehicle was a 2019 with around 35,000 miles on it. (Very important to know the miles the battery has on it if purchasing used.) Most importantly if you are any kind of mechanically inclined you can do a battery swap in around 3 hours yourself. It helps if you do a little internet searching and download the official Ford hybrid battery removal PDF. If you are careful and go step by step, your car will run like its brand new. In addendum, no relearn process is required. Its as easy as changing a few AA's. Save yourself thousands, its a process anyone can do. 2017-Fusion-MKZ-HEV-Battery-Removal-Guide-Final.pdf

I have a 2013 ford fusion energi titanium with most of the extras, like keyless ignition, keyless entry, etc. Starting about a year ago my fuel filler door would randomly pop open. So i replaced the button. This seemed to help for a month or so. Then it started doing it again. Wasnt a big issue because its just the door. So i didnt bother with the actuator or sensor during that time. About 6 months passes with it randomly opening, then noticed it got worse. Now it would pop open when the car was parked and off. Seemingly on its own, as the modules were shutting down. And once it pops, i closed it, without turning on car or opening the doors. Only for it to pop on its own like 2 minutes later. However due to this the low voltage battery began to drain while the car was parked. Requiring a jump almost everytime. Sometimes if the car hadn't sat long, i could start it but occasionally not all the modules would power up. Like the radio and lcd stayed off a few times, sometimes it would say "key not detected" despite starting right up with a push of the button, meanwhile the same error message is shown on the instrument cluster. After getting forscan and running a few diagnostics and checking parts i determined the actuator works fine and the sensor is properly functioning, at the correct voltages. Thus concluded the problem lies elsewhere. However i cannot for the life of me find it. Now after so long and noticing patterns, ive learned more. If i switch into or out of park on the gear shift, it immediately pops the fuel door. And i was showing a low voltage error on the transmission control module and the pcm (which runs the fuel door button, sensor and actuator). So i took the shifter apart and confirmed good connections between its sensors and no mechanical parts are touching or anywhere near the wire harness for the fuel door button, which is right next to the shifter. The wire harness wraps around another direction, seemingly to avoid that problem. But now im stuck in the dark. Everything seems to have good connections. The car runs fine after a jump and the battery still holds a charge when tested out of the car. The car shifts fine. And im thinking the drain is caused by the "close fuel door" error shows on the instrument cluster, even after the car has been parked, powered off and locked up. The fuel door will pop like 5 mins later and the error will show on the lcd of the instrument cluster, but wont turn off as long as the door is open. If i close the door. It turns off, but then then comes back on a few minutes later when the door inevitably pops again on its own. Im at my whitt's end with this thing. Someone please help me. Do i need to get the pcm changed? Or is it the tcm? Maybe just a bad connector in the engine bay? Any suggestions will help. Even if its just tests to run on forscan. Hell i think i can stop the drain if i can turn off the "close fuel door" alert in the instrument cluster. But i cant figure out how on forscan.

After attempting to update my 2013 Ford Fusion Hybrid SE from SYNC 2 version 3.6.1 to SYNC 2 version 3.10 (I read online this was possible from a fusion forum) I got this error telling me to bring my car to the dealer.(see attached photos) I tried to fix the error, revert the update, nothing worked. I can’t even navigate the menu on my SYNC to try to reset to factory default settings. When I press settings it takes me to NAV and it seems the touchscreen doesn’t know what place the buttons are in the GUI. At the same time my car also has been dying after not driving it for a day or 2. I had just brought it to Ford a few months prior for the same issue and they had found the issue to be the 12v battery was the incorrect size so, I paid for a replacement 12V Ford motorcraft battery for $250. Since buying the replacement battery the problem is still occurring. I found this after attempting to update my car to 3.10, when the software was no longer responding to my inputs, and it was unresponsive. I didn’t drive it for 2 days. I can’t even connect my phone with bluetooth. After the 2 days of letting my car sit pass I then tried to access the Sync menu to try to fix the update, my car was dead again and I had to jump start it. After jumpstarting it and learning that I couldn’t fix the SYNC update, the battery went dead again overnight. So now the battery won’t even hold the charge for 1 day. So I brought my car to Ford and tried to explain everything. They we’re very unhelpful through the entire process and my car was there for over a month before they told me that there’s nothing they could do. They said that there’s an internal short in the BCM and this is why my battery is not holding the charge. The BCM controls the power windows, power mirrors, air conditioning, immobilizer system, central locking, etc. A malfunctioning BCM will activate dashboard instrumentation cluster error and warning lights. These lights may flash off and on if the BCM is not able to read the sensors correctly. Your vehicle performance may also be affected as the BCM communicates with other control modules in the vehicle. Now i’m worried because Ford says there’s no replacement parts for the BCM as it’s VIN specific. What do I do? They didn’t help with my SYNC update issue AT ALL with all the time the car was sitting there i’m unsure why they couldn’t simply flash the update and fix the bricked software. But this is why I’m here, If you have any info please help. Ford is dropping off the car in 2 days and I’m in the same place I was 1 month ago.?

have a 2013 FFH. Just bought it a month ago. Drove it for a couple thousand km and all seemed normal, fuel economy was decent etc.. then one day recently z seemingly out of nowhere, fuel economy got quite a lot worse as a result of EV mode disengaging with nearly any gas pedal input. Some research suggested this could be the result of a bad 12V battery. Fast forward to last night. After driving throughout the day, I parked the car and attempted to start it about 2 hours later. It wouldn't start, and I got a message to "Stop Safely". When trying to start the car again, it was as if the gas engine would half engage, but pedal and gear input did nothing and car wouldn't move and a short time later the gas engine would just shudder to a stall. I have a phone charger that has a voltage readout on it. It was getting low, reading as low as under 8V. I attempted to boost the car, and even with the voltage reading 12.6, the car wouldn't react, eventually getting a Wrench icon. Throughout all this, the hybrid Battery icon showed empty/no charge Fast forward to this morning, the car started fine, all warning messages gone and after a few mins the hybrid system appeared to be charged as expected. I drove it to a local shop to have the 12V battery tested. It drove fine, other than still having the issue where EV mode won't stay with any real amount of gas pedal input. The battery tested fine, and I'm now not sure where to go from here. Any help or insight, other than just suggesting I take it to the dealer, would be greatly appreciated

So, my mechanic had left the car with the ac on full blast, and my car ended up with the high voltage battery completely depleted, and roughly 33% rechargeable. MPG aslo dropped by quite a bit. My model is a 2019 with lithium battery pack, and only has 95k miles on it. They supposed to come with automatic reconditioning, but occasionally this doesn't happen. I researched what this 'reconditioning' procedure is, and some mechanics may have tools to charge and deplete the battery pack several times, and restore it to much of its former glory. I don't have the tools, but I can do the charging and depleting from the car, as the "Empower" window shows the state of charge on my car, as well as the energy output to the electric motor. First I tried fully charging the battery for longer time, but that didn't do anything to recover the cells. Then I used the Empower window, to make sure the battery got completely depleted, by running the car on electric only. In Empower, a fully charged battery reaches about 2.25 bars (equals roughly 22kW or 30HP on electric motor output). I kept the motor output at 2 bars on the Empower indicator, where it struggled to reach even 50MPH (where as before it could easily do 70MPH at 2 bars). Once the battery level lowers to 2 bars, lower the motor output to stay below the state of charge indicator. If the output exceeds the state of charge, the engine will start, and you want to prevent this from happening, as you don't want to charge the battery just yet. At least not until the state of charge is below 0.1 bar (roughly 1-2 hp motor output). You'd have to have a fine foot, to keep the motor output under the state of charge the entire time, and a large safe space, where you won't hit anything, and won't bother cars behind you, as the car will slow down going on all electric. A good place to do this, if you don't own a dyno, is on a long straight road, without any side streets, preferably at night or late in the evening, when there's no traffic. And put lane assist on, as you need to switch your focus between keeping the car on the road, just not to end up in the ditch, and keeping the motor output below the state of charge on the indicator. Once the state of charge reaches nearly zero, the engine will automatically engage. You'll want this to happen with the SoC being as low as possible. When recharging, I find the battery charges fastest between 2.5 and 2.75 bars in eco mode, as less power is transferred to the wheels in eco mode, amd more power is harvested by the generator. You don't really need to fully charge the battery, but at least let it run up to 1 of 2 bars. The bms just needs to trigger the dead cell to charge. Once it charges, it can later figure out how much charge the cell can hold as you're driving normally, during its automated reconditioning procedures. Hence, the phase of emptying the battery cells during a manual reconditioning, is more important than the charging phase. Then repeat the process (completely empty the battery, and recharge) for a few times. Sometimes you can recover a significant amount of battery. Other times, only a little, as cells have lost even more voltage potential over the course of time when the bms bypassed them. Charging from a depleted state, will trigger a 'try to charge the cells'-action in the BMS, for those cells that are considered dead. The BMS will never charge these cells when the pack is charged up, because the charge current would be too high for the 'dead' cell (the dead cell would be charged from the other cells in the pack, and could overheat). Instead the BMS just disables the cell it sees as not functioning, until the rest of the pack has a similar low voltage. Then it'll try to charge the cells, just like the other cells, with a low current (divided over the other cells). The BMS will only try to charge the dead cells, when the rest of the pack is relatively balanced with the dead cell in terms of charge. I've repeated the process of charge discharge, about 5 times, and while I haf lost nearly 2/3rd of the battery charge before manually reconditioning, due to the error of my mechanic, I estimate that roughly 1/4th has been recovered since then, to a SOC between 50% to 66% of new (estimated). I'll probably need to redo the procedure again to about a good 10x charge/discharge cycles to have it working good again. Should take roughly 2 hours time (estimated). The procedure is nowhere explained, which is why I created this thread. If your battery has recently died, it should work without any expensive tools. I recommend to do the manual reconditioning procedure only when you've recently noticed a significant drop in mpg, and electric range. For me, that didn't happen until 95k miles. You apparently also can manually charge individual cells in a pack, when the above procedure was unsuccessful, by opening the pack, using a 1,2V charger, some crocodile clamps on each pouch cell cathode and anode pins, and bringing individual cells back to life through directly charging them (without bms). This procedure is significantly more tedious, but could save you thousands on repairs, if you have the time. That's also how battery repair shops repair a battery pack. They first recondition, and only replace the cells when necessary.

Hello, Posting a new topic since I couldn't find a thread with the same warning. Please let me know if this has already been addressed in another thread. (I found a youtube video about switching off backup camera options but I don't have those in the FFH) For the past week, we intermittently see the following warning: "Camera is unavailable. Please contact your dealership". The backup camera works most of the time. Also, when this happens, the home screen beeps when I press anything on the touchscreen but it shows the home screen again (instead of showing the radio or phone, etc.) I plan to try the following: - Master reset the console when it lets me - Replace the 12v battery which is 7.5 years old (12.24v without load, 14.4v when the FFH is 'on') Looking for any suggestions regarding: 1. Ideas on how to resolve the console issue other than a reset 2. The current battery is a BXT-99R-390. I see https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/electrical/battery-and-related-components/battery-7868851-1 I've read another battery thread with a lot of info. Since the OEM last 7+ years, I don't mind replacing it with OEM. Any reason I should NOT go with OEM? Thanks for any advice

TL;DR - If you’re HD Radio isn’t working, go get your battery (12v) checked! HD radio stopped working a few months back. Tried everything from resets to pulling fuses and more. Couldn’t figure out why. Coincidentally, and I’m only realizing this now, the car started having low battery signs. Radio wouldn’t stay on as long when I shut car off, things like that. Anyways, car finally wouldn’t start, or I could trick it at least until the hybrid battery was drained. Replaced the battery and now HD radio works again! Wonder if because it was low on charge it wasn’t powering that aspect. So, if your HD radio isn’t working, maybe that’s a sign of a low battery? Who knows. Hope this helps someone!

HI, I have just bought my first hybrid. It's a 2017 Fusion Hybrid Titanium and I have had it for about 1 week. I have driven it on the highway, and around town. It seems like no matter what I do, the battery charge indicator only peaks at 50% full. I have driven about 100 miles so far probably 50/50 highway and city. I'm averaging 43 MPG which is great. It seems to charge well when I stop and coast. My Questions: Since I just bought the car (used - it was a rental car before). 1) Should I make sure it will fully charge the battery? How do I fully charge it? 2) Should I expect the gauge to hover around 40%-50% at all times? Thanks for the help. I'm a hybrid newbie! BL

As soon as the weather (in Montana) got really cold, my son's 2013 Ford Fusion Hybrid SE wouldn't start. He needs to get a boost anytime the car has been parked for more than about an hour. The battery has been tested (twice) and he's been told it "passed with flying colors". He has also been told it has a CCA rating of 390. I get the impression from reading these forums, and searching online, that the newer model of the battery (99RT4) has a higher rating (470?). Is this correct? Will getting a newer model battery (will have to be ordered--neither the Ford dealer nor local automotive retailers have it in stock) solve the cold weather starting problem?

Found 2019 FFH no longer shows battery SOC in left dash display. Is there any way to enable it? - HP

Disclaimer: DO NOT TRY THIS (Go to your dealer to resolve any issue with your car involving malfunctioning equipment). There are times when I might want to "reboot" the electronics on my Ford Fusion Hybrid (2017). The 12V battery is in the trunk (see picture). Under the hood are (+) and (-) "prongs", specified by Ford (in the manual) to be used to jump the car (page 229). This is needed since you can't open the trunk of your car without the 12V battery -- which is in trunk(!). Explain that to your old man. What is the best way to disconnect your 12V battery? I did it by loosening the nut labeled "A - Negative Side" on the photo. The "washer" under the nut made an unsettling "crackle" sound (as it formed a circuit on and off a few times -- was I"frying something"?) This worked. The car was disconnected from 12V and solved a problem. Attached are some reference 12V battery pictures from my 2017 FFH.

Can my 2016 Fusion Hybrid be used to jump start another vehicle or will that damage it? I've heard mixed thoughts on this topic. I need to jump start our other vehicle (GMC Sierra) but I don't want to damage the battery in the Fusion.

I note there are numerous topics on 12v battery problems with older FFHs. Rather than add onto one of those, I'm starting a new one because I'm experiencing similar problems on a 2017 FFH that we've had for 6 weeks and <1,200 miles. The 12v battery has died on us twice. First time after the car sat for 48 hours. We took it to the dealer who said that it was a bad 12v battery and replaced it. Now, about four weeks later, the new battery was dead, this time after the car sat for 24 hours. When I tried to start it, a clicking noise began in the fuse box and the red light on the gear selector knob blinked, but the dashboard did not light up, the car did not start and the clicking continued without stop until I jumped started the car. After jump starting, it ran fine, but the audio system is inoperative and the navigation system shows no GPS connection. It's Sunday evening, so I will take it back to the dealership first thing tomorrow AM. Has anyone had similar experience with a new 2017? It seems HIGHLY improbable that we would get two bad 12v batteries in a row. What might be draining the battery after the car is shut off?

Today I took my almost 4 week old 2013 Fusion Hybrid to the dealer. Kept getting Battery Saver messages when shutting down the car. Also, could not run the radio in accessory mode with out being told to turn off power to save the battery. Took to the dealer and told them the 12 volt was bad. They said the symptoms were normal. I know this was not true since they were similar symptoms to what my wife had in her 2012 C-Max. In its first month it had been jump started 3 times. Spent a week in the dealer for a new module that controlled the brakes. Did not fix problem. On third trip they checked the battery and it fail all tests. Was replaced and all seems fine. Today they check and found my 12 volt failed the tests and that the computer reported a spike to the radio system. They replaced the battery and I go in the 22nd to see the "radio man" who comes in twice a week. Apparently he goes around to several Ford dealers. The battery problem apparently is fairly common. The Sales Manager said he would make them replace the battery regardless of their findings. Real cooperative and apparently is aware of the issue. The C-Max forum reports quite a few battery problems. See http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/index.php?/forum/15-maintenance-tsbs-recalls/ or http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/index.php?/topic/361-battery-dead/

Been having continuing problems with the Battery Saver Message and unable to use radio in accessory mode. Also, car would not start Sunday and had to charge battery. Took car in today thinking the 12 volt battery was bad since I had the upgrade charging TSB done the first of May. Car was checked and the service advisor said all was well except they had a new TSB to again attempt to fix the problem. They "Charged battery and performed TSB 13 - 7 - 11 Reprogrammed modules for not allowing battery to charge." I hope this works!

While doing a little research to verify the "correct new number" for the 12V battery, I discovered some interesting things. First, on fordparts.com I discovered that there are actually 2 different batteries listed for my 2014 Fusion Hybrid: BXT-99RT4 (listed in the 2nd printing of the 2014 OM as BXT-99RT4-390) and BXT-99RT4-A. The former (BXT-99RT4) is applicable to: 2.0L 122 CID 4 Cyl Electric/Gas and the latter (BXT-99RT4-A) applicable to: 2.0 4V Dual Overhead Cam PFI Gas/Electric (See attached FordPartsBatteryResults.pdf below) Huh? There are two different engines in the hybrids? THAT got my curiosity up, so I checked 2013 and 2015 as well and both batteries were listed for each model year with the same applications. So, I started a chat session (see attached) with fordparts.com to try to determine the correct battery and also to verify that there are 2 different engines. As you will see by reading the chat transcript, I was told that BXT-99RT4-A is the correct part number for my VIN because I have the 4 valve per cylinder engine per the "build sheet". When I asked which Fusion Hybrid the BXT-99RT4 was for, I was told "the one with 2 valves per cylinder". So, there are two different hybrid engines? I was told yes there are. Is it possible that the Energi has a different 2.0L engine than the Hybrid? I don't know. How about you? I got the brilliant idea to call the Ford Customer Service line and ask these same questions. I really didn't get any help there. I was referred to my dealer who would know more about this. Really? Next I called the Team Ford-Lincoln (my closest dealer) parts department and asked them too. I was told that the "-A" part number didn't even come up in their computer and that all they stock is the BXT-99RT4 for $119.95. They had no idea about a different battery OR different engines. Ihave attached a copy of the page showing these two batteries/applications, and a copy of my shopping cart where I successfully placed one of each battery so you can see you really can order them (through fordparts for pickup at your dealer). Maybe somebody out there among you has some knowledge of the two different batteries and/or the two different engines? Waldo, you listening? Maybe this is a another case for Meagan.HELP!!!! :) 12V Battery Chat Transcript.pdf FordPartsBatteryResults.pdf FordPartsCart001.pdf

I have a HyTi with push button start. Let's say I am attending a sporting event that is a three hour drive from my house. I drive to the venue, park in the lot, press the lock button on my remote as I walk into the stadium to watch the game. Hypothetically, let's say that when I pressed the lock button on my remote, it used the last bit of stored energy in the key battery. When I exit the sporting venue after the game at midnight on a Sunday, I press the unlock button on the remote and nothing happens. The key battery is totally dead. I know I can pry off the handle and use the actual key inside my fob to open the door. However, how do I start my car in order to drive home? I'm thinking I should buy a spare key battery and keep it in my glovebox for just such an emergency. I don't suppose there is a way to start the vehicle with the dead battery in the key, is there?

I just got a 2013 Fusion Hybrid- manual says you can jump start in case of dead battery from terminals under the hood, probably blind but I cannot find such? thanks for help