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Found 3 results

  1. I have a 2013 ford fusion energi titanium with most of the extras, like keyless ignition, keyless entry, etc. Starting about a year ago my fuel filler door would randomly pop open. So i replaced the button. This seemed to help for a month or so. Then it started doing it again. Wasnt a big issue because its just the door. So i didnt bother with the actuator or sensor during that time. About 6 months passes with it randomly opening, then noticed it got worse. Now it would pop open when the car was parked and off. Seemingly on its own, as the modules were shutting down. And once it pops, i closed it, without turning on car or opening the doors. Only for it to pop on its own like 2 minutes later. However due to this the low voltage battery began to drain while the car was parked. Requiring a jump almost everytime. Sometimes if the car hadn't sat long, i could start it but occasionally not all the modules would power up. Like the radio and lcd stayed off a few times, sometimes it would say "key not detected" despite starting right up with a push of the button, meanwhile the same error message is shown on the instrument cluster. After getting forscan and running a few diagnostics and checking parts i determined the actuator works fine and the sensor is properly functioning, at the correct voltages. Thus concluded the problem lies elsewhere. However i cannot for the life of me find it. Now after so long and noticing patterns, ive learned more. If i switch into or out of park on the gear shift, it immediately pops the fuel door. And i was showing a low voltage error on the transmission control module and the pcm (which runs the fuel door button, sensor and actuator). So i took the shifter apart and confirmed good connections between its sensors and no mechanical parts are touching or anywhere near the wire harness for the fuel door button, which is right next to the shifter. The wire harness wraps around another direction, seemingly to avoid that problem. But now im stuck in the dark. Everything seems to have good connections. The car runs fine after a jump and the battery still holds a charge when tested out of the car. The car shifts fine. And im thinking the drain is caused by the "close fuel door" error shows on the instrument cluster, even after the car has been parked, powered off and locked up. The fuel door will pop like 5 mins later and the error will show on the lcd of the instrument cluster, but wont turn off as long as the door is open. If i close the door. It turns off, but then then comes back on a few minutes later when the door inevitably pops again on its own. Im at my whitt's end with this thing. Someone please help me. Do i need to get the pcm changed? Or is it the tcm? Maybe just a bad connector in the engine bay? Any suggestions will help. Even if its just tests to run on forscan. Hell i think i can stop the drain if i can turn off the "close fuel door" alert in the instrument cluster. But i cant figure out how on forscan.
  2. 2013 Fusion Hybrid SE A DIY on my pass side under body deflector. This 5 ft cover extends from under engine metal cover to rear seat area. The low hanging damaged cover was originally to be just removed. But as I could see the orange battery cables now visible.Thought I better treat this more seriously. Original part is a fiberglass semi rigid fiberglass cover. New one is softer, but still holds its shape. Ordered from Ford. 1 Deflector DG9Z9911782*J 1 pkg of 4 retention nuts. W714358*S442 1 pkg of 4 extension grommet clip W718554*S300 The tin retention nuts are 15/16" in size and come off easily. I had a few bent under body posts for these nuts. So, extra time was to straighten them. Bigger issue is the body posts thin from rust. A hammer blow to the center of the self threading retention nut.Then they went on tight. The ordered grommet clips didn't have their lock rings. (C'mon Ford!) Luckily I had 3 originals and used a garden hose washer to hold the last grommet together. New Deflector doesn't have holes for the 4 grommet clips. A 3/4 inch flat spade bit drill was used with the old cover as a template. Worked very well. These grommet clips push into the frame and hold the cover off the under body surface. Took a bit more time to patch an aluminum heat shield tear and an oil change to completely make a mess. Lucky I ordered just enough correct parts to complete the job. Put all the covers back. And got a cold drink. (A side note) The original grommet clips and deflector were a known rattle point. If you have a unknown passenger side rattle that you cannot find. This might be the source. Drove me crazy for months. Used some nylon rope from HomeDept and wrapped the grommet/deflector cover contact point a couple times. Works well. Newer flexible cover shouldn't have this problem.
  3. Clunking sound from Driver side rear wheel area. Over any bump...! looked at the sway bar links and anything else, Including the shock. Couldn't find the source. Wife drove me with my body banging around. (Think she enjoyed it too) Took out shock and found slight wiggle movement on top. Gotcha! Fusion has a shock bracket on top. It's bushings are not replaceable. Unlike the old fashioned rubber bumpers with a body flange in the middle. Looked at the aftermarket parts and decided to go with Ford on this one. Picked up 1 and ordered the 2nd. $127 lighter, I decided on aftermarket Monroe shocks. Another $136. Simple job, 4 bolts remove the shock. Top of shock bolt was badly corroded and some on the shaft too. Took a vise and a bunch of back and forth to salvage the plastic shock cover. A lot of oxidation on the bolts. They cleaned up well though. Coated the rubber boot with 303 spray. To keep it soft. Bottom shock flange has slight angle on the bottom. Just rotate shock to lay it flat and match the angle on the lower control arm. Some blue lock tight on top bolts. Done. I will probably spray fluid film on the top bracket. The shock bolt collects a lot of dirt and water and doesn't drain. Cleaning it annually with air. 2nd shock was the same, Showed bulging rubber in the center. Glad I did both. 1 hour+ total work. 95K on speedo.
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