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I just replaced my 12v with a Motorcraft AGM BAGM-H4 from Rockauto (beware they don't reimburse for core).  I have to confirm, my fuel economy went up from an already good tank from 50mpg to 56mpg averaging out the fillup at 52mpg.  Since I also changed my oil using Mobil 1 5w-20 hybrid at the same time the fuel economy on Trip 2 where I keep my oil change miles is over 54mpg. Got both batteries tested at a ford dealer and one of the cells conked out in the OEM.  Not bad for 11 1/2 years though.  AGM tested at 650 CCA even though it is rated at 540.   If anyone knows where to get reimbursed for the full amount of the core $18, I'd like to know.  I really hate being scammed.

Update: On Sept 8, 2025, I inspected the PCM Fuse (#3 - 40A) by pulling it out and comparing it to the 40A fuses. Seeing no difference/damage, I put the fuse back and the car started up as "normal".  Not sure this was the underlying issue but it worked today.   Thanks for sharing your thoughts on the PCM Fuse.    Chuck 

Background: Because of some needed repairs (Valve Cover Gasket) on my 2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid, I have not driven/started it since mid-June and have been driving my pick-up. Last week I was trying to open the trunk and it would not open because the battery was dead. So I charged the battery and started the car and let it run in the garage for about five minutes.     Yesterday I decided I better drive the car again since it had been over two months.  Although the car would "turn on" it would not start and a bunch of warning lights (Wrench, Hybrid Battery, etc.) appeared/flashed on the left side of the instrument panel. I think the Hybrid battery may be dead and/or a fuse may be blown which will not allow me to start the vehicle. Is there a way to try and charge the hybrid battery at home vs. having it towed to a repair shop?   I would much appreciate anyone's thoughts on this who may have experienced the same or similar issue. Thanks.   Chuck

Did replacing the fuse solve the non-starting issue as I am experiencing the same thing?    Background: Because of some needed repairs (Valve Cover Gasket) on my 2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid, I have not driven/started it since mid-June and have been driving my pick-up. Last week I was trying to open the trunk and it would not open because the battery was dead. So I charged the battery and started the car and let it run in the garage for about five minutes.     Yesterday I decided I better drive the car again since it had been over two months.  Although the car would "turn on" it would not start and a bunch of warning lights (Wrench, Hybrid Battery, etc,.) appeared/flashed on the left side of the instrument panel. I think the Hybrid battery may be dead (or I may have blown a fuse(s) which will not allow me to start/drive the vehicle. If the Hybrid battery is indeed dead Is there a way to try charge it vs. having it towed to a repair shop?   I would much appreciate your thoughts on this. Thanks.   Chuck

You can get a simple OBD II code scanner that will read codes and also reset them.  $22: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Z3HB7DR?tag=caranddriver_auto-append-20&th=1

My advice is to call around and get a couple more estimates. Body shop estimates are all over the place.

I have a 2019 Ford Fusion Hybrid SE with the 9-speaker 'Sync' audio package. I would like to upgrade the sound but, from researching the system, I have many questions.   First, does my car have Automatic Noise Cancellation (ANC)? I assume it does and -- if so -- I would like to keep it. (Some of the ANC discussion specifically mentions the rear 6x9 'subs' ... but my car doesn't have those.)   Second, if my car has ANC, can I upgrade the sound system without disabling ANC? I have the following ideas:   door speakers if I simply replace the existing speakers with after-market, will that interfere with the ANC, i.e., is ANC that specifically tuned to the original speakers? (Also, yes, I understand the issue with impedance/sensitivity/power, i.e., I would need to get high-sensitivity 2-ohm replacements. Where 'high'-sensitivity generally means less accurate, thus the common suggestion to get a new amp, too, so that you can use more-accurate lower-sensitivity replacement-speakers)   amplifier if I tap the high-level speaker leads -- which presumably include the ANC-generated 'addition' -- can I safely route that to a new higher-power amplifier, i.e., without interfering with ANC functionality? Or, is the ANC function dependent somehow on the factory amp directly controlling the original speakers?   subwoofer I have read lots of comments about the need to disable ANC when adding a subwoofer. And, presumably this was always from a high-level tap on one of the original speakers, i.e., with the factory ANC-signal included. Again, this would seem to indicate that ANC is highly-dependent on the original speakers and their audio properties, right? I have also read that you only need to disable the rear ANC-mic. If true, does that mean you can tap the rear-speakers' high-level signal, route it to an add-on amp/sub, while still preserving ANC functionality on the front speakers?   Thank you for any suggestions or clarifications!

That's really strange because I have rarely ever gotten under 44mpg on a tank.  Only highway drives out west while filling up with the terrible quality gas they have in Colorado.  High altitude + highway only driving + hitting it kind of hard gave me 42mpg.  My best tank was 54mpg and my worst 36 during an icy winter. I consistently fill up over 45mpg.  Most fill ups are within the 46-50mpg. I guess it is comforting to know that I get better fuel economy in my fusion than a 10 year newer car.  Because of that long highway trip the average on the dash stays about 47.1 exactly as the window sticker promised but it has been going up a little since.  I cannot stand the screens nor the phoning home capabilities in newer cars.  Oh the grand symphony practicing for their next concert at lower speeds in the newer hybrids would be extremely annoying too. That was forced on the car makers and owners by lawmakers who never actually go for walks.

I had issues with mileage as far back as the '17.  I posted my views here at the time.  Over 5 years I rarely got over 36 MPG on a tank and lifetime was abyssmal.  Same routes, same driving patterns, everything.  I'm already >46 MPG at 1400 miles and have registered trips as high as 58 MPG.   And unlike FFH, the lane keeping actually follows the curves on an expressway!  That was a nice surprise.  There are drawbacks ... smaller console, general lack of storage.  But I can manage with those.

This is probably why I'll never buy a Ford again.  Fords were reliable for a hot minute there 1999 to... not sure when they stopped.   I am REALLY PISSED about the timing cover leak.  I drive this car smooth AF and rarely if ever go above 3000rpms.  America is screwed all thanks to careless stupidity.   You're right.  I'm on the original 11 years later and when things were sitting for a while during pandemic I got a Noco Genius 5 battery charger which seems to have kept it going 4 years later. Sorry to see you go.  My friend had a 2017 Toyota corolla with climate control problems he could never solve.  The pre-2016s corollas had analog climate I think. Hope the car makers will be going back to analog someday when people get fed up with the screens.  That's a ticking time bomb.