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-P1A0C HYBRID PCM ENGINE DISABLED -P0A92 HYBRID GENERATOR PERFORMANCE -P0562 BATTERY VOLTAGE These are the codes the dealer diagnosed on the car. They tell me its a transmission failure, however the car won't start ( don't understand what that has to do with transmission ) and then the codes point to electrical issues if i understand correctly. My daughter was driving and said the car lost power going over a small incline and the alert STOP NOW SAFELY came up. She stopped the car and was never able to turn it back on. The battery is completely dead. Any ideas?

I have had my 2014 FFH SE since 2017. I bought it in 2017 and have loved it. It's in immaculate shape and still gets me 42 mpg in suburban driving back and forth to work (28 miles rnd trip). This past weekend it threw the Stop Safely Now (SSN) warning. First timeI let it sit, restarted, and it worked until it did it again two days later. Took it to a local mechanic with a deep scan and got the attached image. Tried "Just Answer" and mechanic there said it might be the traction battery. But Ford Dealer did deeper scan and said it's the TCM. quoted me $3500. Saying the part itself is $3000! Here's where I'm confused and looking for help: 1) If I search online for after market or used parts, and I use my car's year and model, when I say "TCM" I get hits for things on ebay...used parts. But the dealer said that these modules are often tied to the VIN of the original vehicle and I might not be able to use the used part. Anyone know if that's true. 2) Using the same process as in #1, the aftermarket items I see don't always look the same as what I know the TCM I'm shown in my car and in the other picture below. Why is that? Am I using the wrong name for the thing? 3) I've also tried searching for the SOBDC/PCM, but when that comes up, images do not look like the entire thing in the picture below. So I guess I have the following questions: 1) What should I be searching for -- specific Term. 2) Does anyone make an after market OEM (if those are the right terms) SOBDC/PCM for this car? 3) Is it worth trying a used one (saw one from a car with 32K on it if the VIN is still tied to the old car? 4) Do I bite it on a car with 119k and just have the dealer-supplied module installed? thank you. I've had little case to be here, so reliable and wonderful the car has been. But I do appreciate all who post here and all you've done. Thank you.

I have a 2013 ford fusion energi titanium with most of the extras, like keyless ignition, keyless entry, etc. Starting about a year ago my fuel filler door would randomly pop open. So i replaced the button. This seemed to help for a month or so. Then it started doing it again. Wasnt a big issue because its just the door. So i didnt bother with the actuator or sensor during that time. About 6 months passes with it randomly opening, then noticed it got worse. Now it would pop open when the car was parked and off. Seemingly on its own, as the modules were shutting down. And once it pops, i closed it, without turning on car or opening the doors. Only for it to pop on its own like 2 minutes later. However due to this the low voltage battery began to drain while the car was parked. Requiring a jump almost everytime. Sometimes if the car hadn't sat long, i could start it but occasionally not all the modules would power up. Like the radio and lcd stayed off a few times, sometimes it would say "key not detected" despite starting right up with a push of the button, meanwhile the same error message is shown on the instrument cluster. After getting forscan and running a few diagnostics and checking parts i determined the actuator works fine and the sensor is properly functioning, at the correct voltages. Thus concluded the problem lies elsewhere. However i cannot for the life of me find it. Now after so long and noticing patterns, ive learned more. If i switch into or out of park on the gear shift, it immediately pops the fuel door. And i was showing a low voltage error on the transmission control module and the pcm (which runs the fuel door button, sensor and actuator). So i took the shifter apart and confirmed good connections between its sensors and no mechanical parts are touching or anywhere near the wire harness for the fuel door button, which is right next to the shifter. The wire harness wraps around another direction, seemingly to avoid that problem. But now im stuck in the dark. Everything seems to have good connections. The car runs fine after a jump and the battery still holds a charge when tested out of the car. The car shifts fine. And im thinking the drain is caused by the "close fuel door" error shows on the instrument cluster, even after the car has been parked, powered off and locked up. The fuel door will pop like 5 mins later and the error will show on the lcd of the instrument cluster, but wont turn off as long as the door is open. If i close the door. It turns off, but then then comes back on a few minutes later when the door inevitably pops again on its own. Im at my whitt's end with this thing. Someone please help me. Do i need to get the pcm changed? Or is it the tcm? Maybe just a bad connector in the engine bay? Any suggestions will help. Even if its just tests to run on forscan. Hell i think i can stop the drain if i can turn off the "close fuel door" alert in the instrument cluster. But i cant figure out how on forscan.