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Hi so I needed parts for two of my cars.  One month ago a local salvage yard had exactly the cars I needed in exactly the right color, sunset metallic for the fusion.  Both salvage cars were in good condition it seemed. The older one was far too old to have been picked apart.  So I called today and the newer one had been crushed at the end of December and the older one crushed last week.  They'd had them for less than 2 months!    WHY???  I asked and all I got were rude answers, the man accusing me of telling him how to do his business and non answers.  WTF?  I was just asking if they could just enable a system where as customers we could put dibs on a car we want, maybe even buy it outright while they hold onto it until we get the parts we want after it.   I did  not have time to get the parts for several reasons, the holidays, been super busy with other things, everything is covered in snow and it has been bitterly cold.  How are we supposed to get parts off cars sitting outside if it is 5 degrees outside???   So searching their 'newer' inventory I am seeing lots of cars that have hardly any damage on them. Some looked like they were in excellent condition.  Perfectly good cars.   Why are insurance companies totaling out perfectly good cars only for them to be crushed?    I read a reddit post a few months ago where insurance companies were eagerly totaling out Ford Fusions over the slightest damage, but cannot find it right now. [edit] maybe this one. www.reddit.com/r/fordfusion/comments/1p5yshs/insurance_is_claiming_it_a_total_loss/   [edit] I did find this article but it reads kind of hard to believe (ie. 'splaining') . https://www.carscoops.com/2025/03/more-than-one-in-four-new-cars-is-totaled-after-an-accident-says-new-study/   So here's the scam I am suspicious of.  Is the auto industry working with the insurance industry to total out perfectly good cars because they are trying to create scarcity in the used car market so that prices go up or that people are forced to buy the crap cars no one wants that are being sold today?   Can anyone guess why so much massive waste of wealth is going on in our country on cars?  I mean what is with the buy-and-throw-away-buy-and-throw-away mentality?   Doesn't anyone want to keep cars to last anymore so that they aren't throwing their money down the drain?   It just doesn't make any sense.     

I bought my battery from Costco.  It's an Interstate, a regular lead acid T5/90 battery like the OEM Motorcraft one it replaced.  The cases were identical with the exception of  a handle on the Interstate so everything was plug and play.   I did splurge on an $8 set of nylon trim tools from Harbor Freight so I wouldn't break or mangle the button clips for the trunk trim in my cold garage.  The reason for my initial question is I read that not resetting the BMS can lead to premature failure of the replacement battery as the car recharges the new one based on parameters of the old, potentially under or overcharging it.  This is all a grey area for me,, however, as nothing I read or saw online about the BMS was 2016 or later FFH specific.  My ownner's manual was basically worthless in this regard with the typical high dollar solution of "bring it to your Ford dealer," hence my internet rabbit hole.      

Ah that is comparatively cheap even though 12v lead acid batteries used to be half that.  I hope I didn't get ripped off on a sketch battery from Rockauto.  I've since been taught by a mechanic that rockauto sells blemished parts.  I paid about $180 including $18 core deposit rockauto would not reimburse. I used to recommend them.  Not so much anymore. Someone has pocketed that $18. I got the battery tested at a dealer and they said it was good but I am still concerned.  And I got the motorcraft AGM hoping to avoid headaches. (ok thinking out loud)  Where did you get the $125 one?

I didn't do any of this when I replaced the 12v. No issues so far.

I replaced the battery because it was 9 years old and we are in the teeth of winter here in the upper midwest.  I'm as frugal as the next guy but it's the car we inevitibly take on road trips, so for $125 I consider it cheap insurance against having a problem on a subzero day hundreds of miles from home.  I got my money's worth out of the old one...From what I could ascertain, Ford switched to the current BMS for the '16 model year.

Curiously, why did you "preemptively" replace your OEM 12v battery?  My goal was to nurse mine along as long as possible with a NOCO Genius charger helping out which I obtained during the pandemic when my car was sitting for longer times than normal. I got to 11.5 years before someone else killed it letting it sit out in the heat with no operation for 6 weeks.  I ended up putting something in that will hopefully last longer, a Ford AGM battery.  Never had to reset anything.  When I swapped the battery I connected the car to my other car's battery with jumper cables so no memory would be lost. I try to do everything carefully like that.  

Has anyone used other oils instead of Motorcraft in their transmission? I have a 2020 Mondeo full hybrid with an FG98-7000-CB transmission (AC/DC available) with 56 miles on it and I'd like to avoid the usual problems. I was thinking about Amsoil Signature Series Multi-Vehicle Synthetic ATF, Ravenol, Mercon LV, etc. I drive the car in the mountains in the winter and take long highway trips in the summer in high temperatures.thanks 

The BMS is for the 12V and is present in all newer Ford vehicles.  All the videos I saw with the manual high beam/brake pedal reset seemed to be in non-hybrid vehicles come to think of it. The main reason I saw people resetting the BMS in videos was because they were tripping codes and/or losing some functions like auto start-stop and proximity key due to low voltage in their old batteries.  I've driven my car about a week now and am finding it drives exactly the same way it did before.  All I had to do was reset the clock and radio presets, just like any regular car...  

I dunno. I never heard of this.  Mine seemed to work right away.  Let us know what you find out.  Isn't the BMS for the hybrid battery?

How important is it to reset the BMS after changing the 12v battery?  I just preemptively replaced my 2017 FFH's OE Motorcraft T5/90 580 CCA with an off the shelf T5/90 640 CCA battery from Costco last week.  I have not been able to reset the battery monitoring system manually with the sequence of 5 high beam flashes and 3 brake pedal pumps in accessory mode (cited on multiple websites) despite numerous attempts.