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hybridbear

After the PCM software update/recalibration - observations by Hybridbear

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Well what the hell, I am going to go and disconnect the Battery's now.

My car was getting decent mileage, however on the highway it will never Go into EV mode unless its at 98-100km/h.

No harm in trying I guess

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well its a no cost, no brainer, easy "possible fix".

disconnecting them isn't going to void any warranty, its not really going to damge your car, unless you have zero clue of how to remove a battery terminal.

5 mins of your time isn't going to hurt, I also don't see after doing the hard reset, it making your current MPG any worse?

 

I did it not to long ago, I will see how it acts on my way to work and back this evening.

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Thank you, Gry Sql. I can tell you that my inspiration came from my android phone of all things (which also uses a Lithium ion battery). Phone was acting up yesterday morning,The battery hasn't been lasting as long for the last month. I had it plugged in charging and unplugged it at 80% according to the indicator.....so I did a 'hard reset' on it (pulling out the battery, reinstalling it and then reset android back to 'out of box'...after everything came back on, the battery indicator now read 100%! I thought to myself, how in the world did I gain 20% charge by just 'telling the thing' that it was new? Then, the 'hmmm, I wonder' light bulb went off about my car. Same thing happened. HVB charge stated about 20%....disconnected 12v and HVB for five minutes....reconnected and then it read 30-40%! Maybe, like the phone, if it thinks it's SOC is 80%, but its really at 100%, wouldn't it tell MG1 (generator) to stop charging? Somehow, I think all these things that use LI batteries, sometimes lose track of what the true SOC (capacity) actually is. That's my best semi-educated guess. lol ;) BTW, my mileage before the PCM update was 42-45 at 65mph. It tanked to 36-39 at 65mph after the PCM update. After I did the battery disconnect, I can go 72mph on flat road and get 44-48mpg! Yeah, it worked for me. I drive mostly freeway, so because of the raised EV speed, 65mph cycles the battery use/charge so much, that I don't gain a thing. (it's kind of up and down hills where I'm at) The magic charge benefit speed seems to be about 68-72 mph now.

 

What you said here kinda goes on what I had already said.. At 65ish the ev mode goes on and off and charging the battery uses more than giving it a full charge and just running ICE down the road.

 

Being my battery gauge is exactly the same but Alot of the settings changed back to defaults I don't have much hope.. :/

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It would be brilliant if the hard reset turns out to be a cure for some of the low MPGs people are seeing with the FFH.

Wouldn't that be a kicker, that was the only thing I didn't try in that other car. What this does is equal to pulling hte battery in a non hybrid and keeping it disconnected for 30 minutes, wipes out all the KAM and KOEO memory, flushing all the tables and starting from scratch.

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Did mine, so far its looking nill. But no worse.

 

How long did you keep it disconnected?

 

One thing I wonder is how many of the FFH that under preform sat on sales lots for a while and had quite a number of test drives. My thought is that test drives may frequently be about testing performance and result in the computers "learning" some inefficient operating behaviors. Hard resetting the computers would cause them to forget bad habits.

Edited by MaineFusion

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Ditto that's exactly what I thought and/or maybe the under performers have been chosen for a factory test lap and screwed with the initial learning process of the PCM.

I was under the impression that all cars went for a test lap at the factory. I picked up mine the day it arrived on the truck it had 4-8 miles on it (don't remember precisely now). Less than a mile was put on it at the dealership, just enough to get to the gas station to fill it up.

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I can't imagine that they test drive every car that would be a massive undertaking!

 

I think the few miles come from getting the cars to and from the train and getting the car ready at the dealer.

 

If they do test drive each car they might have some drivers that have a very very heavy right foot basically totally screwing up the initial first components communication and setting a very bad first parameter set.

 

This makes total sense. I don't know that they would have to do an extended test, but I'm sure every car does have to have some sort of track test to make sure it is working correctly.

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When a car is built, before it leave the factory it is put though a series of tests, water leaks, quality inspection, and then they put it on a dyno, run up the engine through a series of tests to ensure all is working correctly, put on rollers to ensure the brakes are working, then it is driven out to the lot, loaded on a rail car and delivered.

 

 

GrySql, keeping my fingers crossed that yours is resolved. The theory seems good, and most likely will work on some cars, but not on all. Some are just going to be bad no matter what is done to them, Thar be Gremlins in them!

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