MeeLee

They have a special on it. $136 for the battery. Probably many people return it, because they don't know regular 14.4V car alternator chargers shut off the BMS on the battery. (Hence the diodes, but you can also solder some resistors in parallel with the charge wire). I bought mine nearly 2 years ago. Just verify if the size is still similar to the stock battery. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BGRZP5Q6

Depends on where you live. Salted roads are the worst for anything on the undercarriage.

2019 FFH smooth as butter under 2k rpm. Above there's a slight tingle in the throttle. Also, don't do an oil change with old dino oil. The FFH needs semi synthetic (0W20) oil, and needs to be replaced every 6k miles, or depending on your area's humidity levels, every 2 years. But I doubt anyone would do 2 years on a hybrid before reaching 6k miles.

I doubt it's necessary. I got 130k miles on mine without a single issue. The FFH uses it's engine a lot less than other cars, and it's rpm is much lower as well. If you drive carefully, your tach never exceeds 2k rpm. You probably can do more damage than good, unless you live in a very air polluted environment.

The battery is very small. The max subwoofer it could support is probably 100W or so. Additionally, adding a battery in parallel may look like a good idea, but can trigger the fuses, or worse, break the 12V battery charger. No one I know has tried it. It's not your standard 12v alternator, but a circuit unit on the HVB that downconverts the voltage from 300V to 14V, and probably will be expensive to replace.

When the nozzle shuts off, that's your fuel max. Anything more is overfilling the tank. There is no reason to believe there's something wrong with your car, as the nozzle both provides fuel, and subtracts fuel fumes from the tank. Looks to me like you're overfilling the tank,which is bad.

Eco mode is good for cruising under 70mph. It also forces you to drive on the electric motor for longer, before kicking in the gas engine, which may be good in very slow pace traffic. Eco mode falls on its face during heavy acceleration, faster than 70mph driving, and regen. During regen, eco mode won't store 100% of the captured energy to the battery, but has 2 motors work against one another, causing better braking, but less energy captured. Then again, if you're braking using the brake pedal in normal mode, you also trigger the 2 motors to brake for you. Normal mode is best for normal driving, breaking, coasting on ev. Eco mode is only good for coasting using the engine (eg: at 50mph), or highway speeds below 70mph. Additionally, eco mode will lower climate control output (like, reduce AC output) when enabled

I guess the brakes on the FFH are more like 50/50. Fronts get aided by the electric motor, though that one loses braking power as the battery ages. At times, my 130k mile hybrid will only use little regen, as it feels like it's just coasting. Also a lot lower power to the motor.

I changed my ecvt fluids at 97k miles, 4 years, at which the reddish pink fluid had become tea color. According to the mechanic, not in immediate need for replacement, but it was starting to degrade. After the fluid swap, I noticed a 1mpg avg increase, which means the old fluid did start to lose its lubricity. So 100k miles is about the mark to replace the ecvt fluid. You're well above that, though my area is a hot area. Colder areas with temps below 75F most of the year, may do a bit longer with the fluid. Still, I would replace it within the 125k mile mark for sure.

I bought a lithium battery, Lighter, and cheaper. (Just $200 shipped to my door). See this post: https://fordfusionhybridforum.com/topic/16592-12v-battery-timer-reset/?do=findComment&comment=118151

Doesn't work on a vehicle with the rotary dial gear selector. It will prevent you from switching to drive gear when the engine isn't on.

You can't get more than 2k rpm, but you can try to gently release the throttle somewhat. I believe the engine can run at a lower rpm like 1500 or so, when pressing the pedal about 25% in.

Same here. My locksmith programmed it for me. Only issue is that both keys use the same code, rather than a different code like the second (and third) key would have when buying new.

Check 12V battery voltage. Replace if needed.

Better than mine which rattles when I turn.

How do you get 29mpg on the hybrid? I got bigger tires on mine, 130k miles, and still manage to get 42mpg (though electric power has decreased a lot). 42mpg readout is closer to 44mpg, when taking the 4-5% larger tires into consideration.

I did. I use the 0W20 mobil 1 (green bottle), and it works great. I've been using that oil on all my cars for decades, and swear it's the longest lasting oil, with, you never would have guessed it: Amazon Basics coming in at a close 2nd. With oil prices being $1 more expensive per 5qt compared to other brands, I see no reason not to use Mobil 1 oil for the car. Standard semi synthetic oil: 6k miles Amazon basics 0W20: 6.6k miles Mobil 1 0W20: 7k miles. Nearly on all my vehicles, has Mobil 1 outlasted any other brand. And how do I measure it? I know my car, and I feel when the oil starts wearing out over time. The engine starts vibrating on most cars, especially when the ac compressor turns on at idle, but on the fusion, I can tell from the vibrations coming through the accelerator, especially when going over 2k rpm. I have 130k miles on mine, religiously changed oil every 6 to 7.5k miles, and my mechanic tells me the engine sounds as good as new. One tip: Buy a 12V oil pump, with a plastic nozzle that can enter the dip stick. You can suck out between 4.5 to nearly 4.8 of the 5qt of oil, pump it in an old oil jug. Your oil filter can last exactly 30k miles before the filter seals blow out, but I would recommend to change the oil filter once every 2 oil changes (~12-15k miles). Saves you money and time. And if you forget, you can still do a third oil change on a filter (<24k miles), especially if under 100k miles just fine. Amazon basics oil is a good lubricant oil. Mobil 1 has not only the best lubricant, but also the best additive package IMHO.

My 2019 model started getting random error codes. Figured from the forum that it was the 12V battery. 11.8V at no load, drop down to 11.2V under load. I replaced it with a 12V 50Ah Lithium battery. Initially I tried a 12V 20A peak (10A continuous) UPS battery, but it was unable to start the car. The vehicle draws over 200W at startup, and the UPS battery couldn't pull the load. So I swapped it for a 50Ah battery with success. Battery problems followed though, as the 12V battery BMS would shut down at 14.4V charge voltage. It's output voltage at between 13.4 and 13.8V also was much higher than a standard 12V, and I found that the cabin lights were too bright with this new battery. So I bought myself 2x welder diodes (1600V 100+ amps), and soldered them between the battery terminal (one for charging, another for using) and the charging cable. Now the 14.4V charging voltage drops down to 13.85V to the battery, and the ~13.35V low SOC voltage puts out 12.8V to the car. The perfect voltage. Lastly, lithium batteries are made in China. Which means, they're overrated. Charging them at a lower voltage will hopefully make them last longer. So far it's been nearly 2 years working fine. You don't want lithium batteries to be charged at 100% anyway. The weight of the lithium battery is about the same as a new shoebox with shoes inside. Very light.

130k Miles, and still on the stock pads. Still over 30% left on them.

I replaced mine with a 50Ah lithium battery of similar physical size, and it's immediately recognized. The car just wants to see a minimum of 12v on the output. If the battery is lower than that (11.8V), and you turn the car on (14.4V on the charging cables), that voltage fluctuation (voltage jump when you start the car) sometimes causes software errors. Through the use of a Bi-directional inline welding diode (~1200V 200A) with the positive terminal, the 14.4V charge voltage drops to 13.9V which is a better charge voltage for the battery, and the 13.35 no load battery terminal voltage drops to 12.85V to the car, both the sweet spot for charging and discharging. Some smaller lithium batteries may not charge properly on car terminals, hence you'll need a diode to lower the voltage. Maybe if you put a 100A battery the diode isn't necessary, however, those batteries are also much more expensive.

Stock tires are great tires. They last about 50k miles but will cost you about $200/tire times 4. I bought a 1" larger size Bridgestone tires (speedo and mpg readout off by 4%) from Walmart. They went for $75 a piece, and are MUCH quieter than the stockers, plus they seem to last at least as long. They're a Walmart store brans, not UK tires, but are damn good! I get about 45MPG out of them (48 out of the stockers), but they need 45psi cold (50PSI max rating).

I got cloth seats, but use imitation leather seat covers. Seats underneath covers look as good as new, while covers take the heating and the beating.

1) Not needed in Florida or other hot places for sure! 2) ? 3) Never needed a spare, but if you do, you more than likely will need an air pump anyway, as those spares usually end up flat by the time you need them. That being said, I've only had 3 flats in 125k miles, with 12 hours of head notice by the tpms sensors that read a low tire pressure. Most people getting a flat, will 90% of the time end up with a screw or nail in their tires, which gives you about 9 hours to get it fixed, or pump the tires with a tire pump. 4) I only recently noticed I didn't need to remove a connector when taking the glove box out in order to replace the cabin filter, so for me that's yet another thing that won't ever break. Passenger dome light is bright enough for glovebox. 5) 2019 FFH basic SE model, mirror lights are present. 6) hardly noticeable. 7) looks ok to me. Front bumper looks worse on a 19 than 18.

In my opinion the worst parts of the 19 is less USB and 12V ports, zero in the trunk, and uglier front bumper. No fog light switch on the SE. In response to your points: 1- there still is a battery meter. It's in the "empower" menu. The blue bar on the left shows available battery power. Hovers between bar 3 (~30kW) and invisible (0kW) of available battery power. 2- My 19 model has it. 3- right screen can also display entertainment (radio), phone (call options), and navigation (compass) aside from the fuel consumption display. 4- there is no actual parking assist other than the RGB lines on the media center (generic picture attached), and 2 white curves that change in curvature depending on the steering wheel angle (not visible in attached photo).

I'd replace the blinker fluid. Definitely a blinker fluid problem!