MeeLee

2019 model always has the LEDs on. Only when it gets dark do the headlights come on.

sounds like a problem I've been experiencing occasionally. When I run my CVT to the max gear ratio (running 1.1-1.2k RPM @75MPH), it tends to not start the engine as well (allowing it to run well below 1k RPM, usually 500-750rpm). I can still cruise at 30MPH, but the engine wouldn't run properly. It seemed to help by just pressing the throttle down quite a bit, allowing the engine to rev higher. Once it hits past 2k RPM the issue seems to be resolved. On a different note, I've also experienced belt slip, when accelerating on an on ramp to the highway. I hear the engine revving higher, but the engine tach doesn't reflect that. Which makes me believe it doesn't actually read engine RPM at the engine, but rather somewhere along the transmission. On other occasions, the car was in N, and the engine came on, to charge the battery (because I was running AC), and I did not see engine RPM go up in the display, which confirms the idea that engine RPM isn't read out on the engine. Perhaps other forum members can confirm that by leaving the engine in Neutral, enabling L-mode, and pressing the throttle all the way down, the engine will start and idle for charging purposes. It should start from the 12V battery in the trunk. Measure the 12V battery voltage, and have someone check the engine starter, as the engine should have a 12V starter aside from the electric high voltage motor to start it with.

I noticed my red 2019 Fusion Hybrid has a different front bumper than 2018 and earlier models (especially the fog light area, which is harder to see on the pic). Can I install fog lights on my fusion (mostly for better seeing dark street corners when turning)? Also, what's the easiest way to get under-dash LED lights?

From the outside. Auto lock just wears out the actuators and the unlock button.

Yes, I think that regen miles are actually ev miles. That the counter doesn't distinguish between the two. Anyway, you did 1.8 miles on the ice engine.

Could it be from spilling oil during an oil change?

On my 2019, eco mode provides some regen with foot off throttle, and uses about 5-10% of throttle input space for that regen. With eco mode off, the regen is very weak, and mostly like an ice car coasting to a stop. The regen applied to eco mode is perhaps like downshifting a gear on an ice car. It is not maxed out, as you can still press the brake and get additional regen. I think they did it, because brake lights don't come on when throttle is released.

Is there a way to disable auto door lock feat? I find it annoying to have to unlock the doors often on short trips.

All these things are true for the 2019 model as well. Paint job on the red 2019 se is plain horrible! Also missing: Foglights, Interior under dashboard leds Moonroof (don't care about it) Chair vibration Seat cool/heat My bighest gripes are: - No creep disable (car moves forward on electric in D mode) - Steering wheel vibration is too late (lane departure system seems rather a penalty or punishment, than a warning system) - Dashboard light isn't tuned for tinted windows (The daytime dash is too bright at minimum settings, and either it's too dark when the lights go on at dusk, or too bright at night). I find myself most frustrated with the between dusk and night settings, due to a mandatory window tint in hot Florida, I find myself constantly adjusting the dash brightness. - Highbeams are very narrow and focused. And without fog lights, it's hard to see the road on bad illuminated streets (especially with a mild tint). - weak electric motor, low battery range. I would have wanted to see 20% more electric torque. Possible if they added a capacitor pack, to run the motor in overvoltage longer. - Adding a phev port on the hybrid should have been standard. Since the hybrid already has a charging system, all it needs is a 120v connector; allowing for a person to at least drive a mile on pure electric at the beginning of the day.

Testing out this car more, I want to correct my statement above. The electric range seems to diminish with speed. So the most efficient speed on electric (also taking time into consideration, since no one wants to drive at 5mph; as well as taking into consideration things like ac and lights further draining the battery the slower you go, as you'llneed to run them longer), would be 35-40mph. I find I have only a few seconds of electric range at 60 mph, but nearly a minute of coasting at 30-40mph. This curve diminishes at lower speeds, as the lights, charging system, and ac use up roughly 1kW of power. Half your travel time means roughly half your ac and power use, but also could mean more than double your rolling and wind resistance. For that purpose, ~35mph to 40mph may be close to the optimal electric performance sweetspot. For gasoline, it appears the electric motor interferes with the readings. You'd have to be driving at 70mph or greater, for the electric motor not to come on while coasting. At that speed (and level ground, no wind), the engine does about 1400rpm. With some backwind, and tailgating I truck, you could reach an insane 50-55mpg, by finding the optimum throttle position (allowing the engine to rev at an astonishing 1.1-1.2k rpm while coasting at 75mph). This throttle position is right before the engine cuts off and switches over to electric. I've been able to hold my car at these speeds and mpgs for longer periods on the highway, and duplicated the results a few times.The conditions are to: 1- have LRR tires (the stock tires or better) 2- have 40psi or more of air in the tires. 3- reduced wind drag (driving behind a truck/have a tail wind), Or, can also be achieved on a mild downhill 4- Engine must be warmed up, and batteries fully charged. The first few miles the mpg slowly creeps up from 20mpg to 36 as the car charges up the battery. It takes a good 10 min before it actually surpasses the 40mpg mark, staying at ~42mpg without a tailwind. When the conditions are just right, gently hold back a little on the throttle, until rps are 1.1-1.2k rpm. Surprisingly, the car keeps speed just as it did at 1400rpm. Concerning my previous post, I'm not sure what I meant by 2k idle rpm. I probably meant to say that while driving the car seems to naturally prefer 2k rpm to accelerate in eco mode; or, when the engine does come on, I find it revving most around 2k rpm. It takes me to press the pedal quite deep for it to aim for 3k rpm, but that could be entirely the eco mode throttle programming. I drive eco mode all the time, since this mode allows for easier gentle acceleration, which is what my passengers seem to favor.

I currently have to dial to neutral at every stop.

I'm getting 48MPG at 75F, and 47.3mpg average around 80+F ambient. In the city, mpg can go as high as 50. I accelerate on the gasoline engine, and 'coast' on the electric motor. That seems to make the most of my mpg (up from 42mpg trying to let the car decide how to switch between the two). The problem is that the car doesn't know the road ahead, and quite often is running the gasoline engine longer than needed, resulting in the engine switching to electric, right as I'm about to enter an intersection and need to stop. Then it tries to accelerate on the electric motor, because the batteries are fully charged, and the engine has nothing to charge. The small 40/50HP electric motor isn't well suited for acceleration much past 25-30MPH, resulting in energy losses. For that reason, I force the engine on (by pressing the pedal deeper), until I've reached cruising speed. Then blip the throttle the other way, by shortly letting go, allowing the engine to shut off, electric motor to regen, and take over the job of coasting. I really feel like this car needs a larger supercapacitor pack, and at least a 20-25% larger electric motor. I also believe that the engine is putting out closer to 160HP (rather than the rated 140hp), and the electric motor is overboosted to 45-50hp rather than the rated 40HP, with a combined performance coming closer to 215hp vs rated 180hp. It's underrated, much like their mpg ratings of 42mpg. I'm getting closer to 50mpg in the city, and 40mpg on the highway. Hovering around 47mpg average doing 25/50/25 city/suburbs/hwy.

My hybrid (non-phev / non-energi) has space for 1 small suitcase, and 1 large, and a handbag. Anything else goes on the front seat. Works well during covid. May not work when pool will be reactivated.

I'm getting 50mpg out of my 2.0 atkinson engine at 75mph, revving 1.25k rpm on the highway. The engine isn't lugging, since lugging and predetonation are all electronically controlled (the throttle body won't open as far as to have the engine lug). Running the engine at such low rpms, increases efficiency by well over 15%, compared to their design specs. Meaning even if they peak at 30%, gearing and proper load will easily up that number by 10-15%. Most stock cars run their engines around 30-40MPG at this speed (2-2.5k rpm). Pumping losses are greater than air friction losses for coasting (not acceleration). Lugging a modern engine is nearly impossible, because it's electronically controlled and protected. My understanding of lugging, is to load the engine so heavy, that parts of the engine no longer are protected by the oil film, and start scraping metal on metal. This can be due to high load, or slower movement. The faster the parts move, the more they will float on oil. For most cars, it's nearly impossible to lugging am engine at 1k rpm and up when costing, and 2k rpm and up for acceleration. This is the same for most engines, because they all are designed for the same (or similar) oil. (Usually ranging from 0W20 to 10W40)

That was meant sarcastically.

It's also not smart to have your foot on the brake when having it on the gas could save you... There's no say at what the right response is in every situation. I just want to know if creep can be disabled.

Sure you're not driving in L-Mode? The atkinson engine hums when it comes on.

Original poster is incorrect. Gasoline engines do 40-45% efficiency nowadays. Especially 3 or 4 bangers, and especially atkinson designs. One of the main issues is final drive gearing. Most engines rev 500-1000RPM too high in final gear, resulting in a 10MPG loss overall. Another way to increase efficiency, is using a fuel warmer (warm the fuel from engine heat, prior to injection). Third, hot air intake (will reduce HP/torque) Fourth, use a water vapor injection system. Water vapor increases the density of air, and works well on torquey engines. There is research done on steam getting into the crankcase, causing oil pollution though. But for short boosts it can work really well. Another thing that can be done, especially when increasing gear ratios, is mixing a tiny bit of 2 stroke oil in the gasoline, at a 1:128 ratio (1oz of oil / 1 gal of gas). My personal tests have shown that 1:100 ratio is too much, and 1:300 doesn't do much. 1:128 is easy to calibrate, or ~1:200 ratio (~10 oz in a 12 gal tank). It slows down pre-ignition, it lubricates the upper pistons, and increases performance; though might interfere with modern car O2 sensors. At a low enough ratio the oil is more treated like an additive.

If what they say is true, that a heatpump is more efficient than a heater, and all they need is some extra plumbing (since cars already have an AC), Why did the fusion not get the heat pump feature? Even if it only works down to about 20-30F, it's easy to use exhaust heat or engine coolant to melt ice on the outside condenser, and make it useable at well below 10 degrees!

The car takes the first few miles charging the battery, which makes MPG drop pretty bad. My first readout was like 21MPG. It gradually increased to 41, as I drove it more often. I've only done short trips. Longer trips should net better MPG.

From your calculations you're running your car at 100MPG! Oil pan heater only benefits car the first few miles. you can also use a warm air intake. Blocking air vent and using a hot air intake, is really bad for summer. If you have a PHEV/Energi, you can use electricity to warm up the interior and batteries for better winter performance.

the regen miles may be recuperated in charging the battery. Means you roughly charged your battery by 1.1 miles.

35MPG for full electric, ~50MPH for gasoline. It's like that on most cars. The 2.0 atkinson engine idles at around 2k RPM, at which the CVT can propel the car to about 50MPH.

Is there a way to turn off creep? (Creep meaning forward movement without using the throttle) I prefer keeping my foot off the brake, when at stop lights, and not always have to turn the rotary dial into Neutral).

Not sure if the Energi/PHEV would have been the better car or not, but, 1- I need the trunk space, I drive Uber 2- I have no place to charge the car anyway, live in an association 3- I frequently drive long hours. The Fusion Hybrid is a great car! It could have been greater, if they only had equipped it with a 1L 3Cyl, and doubled the output on the electric motors (to 80-120Kw), and increased the battery capacity. It would have been easy to get 50MPG out of it that way! Any tips or tricks you can recommend? Also, do replacement batteries come in Li-Ion form?