MeeLee

Highly dependent on where you live, but the cabin air filter I change every ~50k miles, or every 4 years, whichever comes first. You'll notice a damp smell, especially when turning ac off to fan only. Engine filter, I changed mine at 60k miles, but it was as good as new. These filters do 100k miles when in a clean environment (no smog or dusty roads). Transmission fluid must be replaced with ford transmission fluid, and must be changed around 100k miles. My testing showed a ~1mpg increase at ~45mpg after doing the fluid change. This means the oil lubrication was going bad, even though the oil wasn't particularly dirty (looked like coolaid). I would not recommend doing transmission oil changes earlier than 75k miles or later than 125k miles. Your second flushes/changes should be done every 75k to 100k miles. Engine oil should be changed every 6.5 to 7.5k miles, depending on the oil you're getting, but they have to be 0W20 full synthetic. Amazon basic and Mobil 1 do 7.5-8 k miles tops. Valvoline, pennzoil, Castrol and a few other off-name brands no more than 6.5k miles.

2019 ffh, ome tpms sensor bad at roughly 115k miles (rear left, driver side, sensor). I don't know how much it cost, but I bought a set of 4 for $36 on Amazon. It only costs $5 to install with my local tire shop, and they will be installed at the next tire change roughly 15k miles away.

My personal battery issue went away when I replaced the 12v battery with a lithium one. Still ironing out some kinks. Also, do ecvt oil change at 100k miles! Third, make sure your tires are highest psi (45-50psi hot, or 40-45psi cold). To compensate for road noise, I installed a tire that had a 2" larger oitside diameter, but you can find 1" larger outside diameter as well.

2019, left screen can be set to temp gauge, rpm gauge (you don't really need it, becasue the engine usually hovers between 1280 and 2100 rpm, and rarely goes beyond that, unless you want to accelerate less economically). Rpm, temp and battery gauge is not something you'll need often, because they are nearly always constant. If you want more gauges, buy an obd2 Bluetooth port, plug it in, and download 'torque lite' on your phone. You will have about 25 more working gauges for only $11 for the bt plug on Amazon. Including engine load, boost/vacuum, etc...

Thanks, learned something new. In most cases, I just release the throttle, and if I need more braking power, will use the eco setting. Eco setting gives enough regen to coast downhill a bridge, and maintain speed.

The average car speed is 40mph, or half your max speed. If you do highway only, your average speed obviously will be very close to the top speed. If you drive in the city only with 30mph speed limits, your average speed will be closer to 15mph. Most people will range between 20 and 40mph average speed. Soothy exhaust is because if your engine never gets hot enough, it'll need to inject more fuel. This is done during cold starting, (extreme) cold weather, or when you drive mostly electric, thus long phases of electric driving, and short phases of gasoline (especially true for the energi phev). Short and slow trips can also be the blame, where the engine never gets taxed. Once you do more highway trips, sooth should lessen

Posts in hindsight are hilarious. In the past 3 to 6 years we've learned that those 600-700 mile estimates are off by 1.5 x. I had 450 miles estimated range, and after an 80 miles to and 80 miles back of GPS (highway) where I averaged at 40-44mpg, with peaks of 55mpg (speeds 50-75mph), I was left with just 195 miles on the counter. My average mpg on this trip actually went up by 1 mpg. The map said I did 165 miles. The fuel counter said I did 255 miles. I've seen ranges as high as 700 miles, but was forced to refuel at 400 miles. In order to see these high mpg ranges, do long highway rides at preferably 55mph. Preferably tailgating a tractor trailer or van or something... It takes roughly 10-25 minutes of highway driving, before both the high voltage battery, and the 12v lead acid battery is fully charged. Depending on where you live, it might take approx 10 minutes to cool or heat the car at minimum fan speed. You also get better mpg with racetrack regular fuel, or shell or BP high octane fuel. Apparently the timing advances quite a bit when the engine is running in atkinson cycle mode. (Below 60mph). Once you go faster without going downhill or without a tail wind, the engine still keeps its 2k rpm, but the atkinson cycles end, and exhaust valves open normally. The fusion's atkinson cycle basically reduces cylinder content by keeping exhaust gasses in the cylinders, thus nearly matching fuel economy from a 2.0 liter engine to a 1.5-1.7 liter. Aside from that, make sure your tires are at the max rated psi when hot (highway ride on a hot day). Mine are 45-50psi hot, or 40-45psi cold, depending on my tires. You can also replace the 12v lead acid with a lithium one. Mpg goes up by at least 3mpg, and thus it won't be hard to hit 700 miles. Also, ecvt oil must be changed with oem ford oil, (dont put standard transmission fluid in it) at around the 100k miles mark. I saw an increase of about 0.5 mpg avg, meaning the oil still looks pinkish tea color, but the wear additives need to be replaced. Lastly, accelerate on engine (normal mode) to above the speed limit, then cruise either in neutral or on the electric motor; or keep maintaining your speed with the engine in eco mode, when charging up the battery.

How many miles you got on it? The ecvt oil is best replaced at around 100k miles with the proper oil (not any transmission oil). It should be about a $370 job. If the oil looks dirty, black or not reddish/pink, I'd flush the oil. Leave the new oil in for a good 5-10k miles, and repeat. Then you should be good for another 100k miles.

Depends, If the second car battery is just to act as a buffer, you can just install it in parallel. Do know that if you want 500W subwoofers (loud enough to rattle you our of your chair), a second battery may only work for a good 15-20 min. If on the other hand, you just want to install a single 8" 50W subwoofer, you don't even need a second battery, as the primary 12v battery is only used for starting up the car electronics. After this step, the highbvoltage battery takes over. That means you can safely install a small subwoofer system (probably best in the trunk). A second battery could fit in the wheel well under the carpet in the trunk, or just in the trunk. You can also replace the stock battery with a much larger one (like those for the f150 trucks), and just tie the battery down. There's a good 4 to 5 inches in width, and 3 to 4 in length, and about 3 in height of space between the walls and the stock battery. Just buy the largest size battery that fits the compartment, and put some foam around it. Unless you're crashing your car, or drive offroad, there's no need to tie down the battery. In my subaru, the 12v battery is just in a small tray, not tied up.

I've replaced the lead acid with a 12v lithium. Since then, my mpg went up from 42 to 45mpg. Did a 300 mile ride yesterday, with an average of 53mpg (not accounting for the 4% taller tires, which make the actual numbers closer to 55.5mpg). Did a recent smaller trip, no highway, and got 60mpg average readout. Used all the tricks in the book (accelerate in normal mode until 10-15mph over the limit, then coast on electric using only 1 bar (10hp) to slowly decrease speed to 45mph, and also coast in neutral for stoplights far away)... The 12v lithium isn't charged up by the car, becasue the bms cuts off when the charge voltage increases above 14.7V. Instead I've bought this $25 10A charger: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09DCK7XG1 I did the math, charging the lithium from empty costs me around $25-33ct. The gains in mpg are 3+ MPG(and still rising). I only have to charge it about every other week. Since I do uber part time, that means I save roughly 100 miles on gas out of 1500 miles, or ~$20 every 2 weeks.

On sync 3, you can use vlc or even files in android auto. Vlc is easier though, as it runs like a media player app in your car system

One problem with ford's system is that you have to pull the handle twice before the door opens. Some people don't know that, and pull the handle harder, waiting for that mechanism to unlock.

Time to change the 12v battery. It becomes a drain.

Could be the transmission/engine bushings going bad. Usually happens when shifting into park when still rolling below 5mph. Shifting into park with the stupid rotary dial switch Ford used, is very easy to do when looking backwards, while trying to shift to drive. Of course, it could be something else, but I absolutely hate that gear shift rotary dial!

My first problem happened with the BMS shutting off when the charger put burst voltages of over 14.6V to the battery. The car does this to burn off any oxidation on lead acid batteries, but it stops lithium batteries from charging, as their BMS will disconnect. There is a cheap and an expensive solution for it. You either buy a voltage regulator which is in the 200s of dollars, or you make your own charge system. The best way is to use high amp diodes, to discharge the battery to the car, and other diodes to charge the car, with an inline 14V buck converter. That's the best way. Total of parts will be a few tens of bucks and some solder work. Or, go the really easy route, and just solder a resistor in series with the battery. The good thing is, that I've already done some research in this area. If done correctly, it should cost you less than $20. Apparently a 3Ohms resistor will drop the voltage by 0.5 to 1V, depending on the load and battery. The 8Ah battery with 10Ah burst was not powerful enough to start the fusion. I think the minimum needed would be a 20Ah battery (or more). The Li battery operates at around 13.3V, while a lead acid battery operates between 12.3 and 12.8V. So a 1V drop is what we're looking for. A 3ohms 50W resistor is just enough for the 8Ah battery, so for the 50Ah battery, in theory, I'll need about 5 to 6 times more. (Need about 250-300W). For that reason I chose this 10 Ohms pack of 5 resistors, each rated for 100W. By putting 3 in parallel, I'll have 3.3Ohms. I could also put 4 in parallel for 2.5Ohms, or put 2 rows of 3 in parallel for 6.67 ohms, for a higher voltage sag more equivalent to a lead acid battery. By using the resistors (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077ZJKYYR/), I'm hoping the voltage sag being bi-directional, will allow the battery to charge at 13.4-13.6V, while bust voltages of 15.8V will be reduced to below 14.8V, and will not knock out the bms. Likewise, I'm hoping that the charge current will be reduced in the battery for longer life, as well as the discharge voltage will be closer to a 12V lead acid battery. The resistors will more than likely never have to deal with more than a few volts of voltage differential, causing them to never be hotter than hand warm, unless the 12V battery is depleted to zero, at which they might become very hot. The BMS should never allow the battery to go below 10V anyway. Mine shut off around 9.2 to 9.7V, and a 10A charge current from 9.2v to 13V is about a 79W differential, enough to melt plastic with these resistors. Hence I think 2 resistors of 100W in series will be about the minimum I need, but more likely it'll be 3. From my research, it seems a single 100W resistor might be too little, as the charge current is 10-15A from the high voltage battery, and the resistor does need to handle more than 130W to start the vehicle.

You only need to worry about discharging. Is it going to be -20c (-4F) in your trunk? Because if it is, your high voltage battery won't work either. Edit: apparently the wrench icon was for the Li battery BMS going into overprotection when the voltage exceeded 14.7V.

Apparently the biggest drain on the battery is the 12v battery. You should replace it with a low capacity (<50Ah battery), as soon as possible.

Mine only has the sound of a dragging brake pad.

Ps, the 36Ah battery might actually not have the wrench icon. 36Ah equals roughly to 400Wh, still more than enough power.

My 2019 12v battery was still usable, but read pretty low voltages. A replacement was easily $200, and it wasn't easy to find a replacement that would fit. I ended up finding a Lithium replacement that fit legth and width wise, but was a bit higher, so the strap doesn't fit on it. But there's a screw block on the side of the trunk lid, that can still screw it in place. The product I used was this $200 50Ah battery, but at the time of this writing, they only seem to have the 36Ah version. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BGRZP5Q6 The 100 and 200Ah won't fit in the compartment. While most lead acid have 800cca, the 50Ah had only 100-200CCA. Though this shouldn't matter, as the engine is started by the high voltage battery. The only load on the battery is the 12v climate controls, lights, radio, usb, etc... It's entirely possible that the 36V battery is good enough. Why I recommend to swap out the lead acid: 1- it's lighter 2- It's the same price as an oem 12v replacement 3- unlike the lead acid with 500 recharge cycles, lithium has 1000-3000 recharge cycles, thus lasts longer. 4- The biggest reasons however, is that the battery charges quicker at start, when the high voltage battery is still cold, and then draws less charging current for the rest of the journey when fully charged. It charges quicker. The lead acid will put a larger constant drain on the high voltage battery, even when charged. This battety swap results in an average increase of 42.5 to roughly 45.5 mpg. There is one con though, In the beginning, the car might lose the dash dimmer settings, and a wrench icon may appear. This is because the Li battery charged voltage is about 13.30v, and falls outside of the expected voltage. I have found enabling the parking brake while turning off the car lowers that voltage, and the wrench icon won't appear. Over time, the Li battery voltage will drop and the wrench icon won't be present at some starts. Still, I believe it is best to change out the 12v battery immediately, as it will result in better mpg, and a longer lasting high voltage battery.

Funny thing, while I was getting acquainted to my new 2019 ffh, and the dealership was doing the paperwork, I used the dealers own wifi network to update it. Before the papers were done, the update was complete. I drove home with Android auto, and the sales guy who saw me leave was astonished they sold me the ffh with Android auto. Apparently they didn't know the car needed to sync with a phone containing either Android auto, or Apple carplay. I don't think my 2019 ffh has any modem in it. Never tried but all my software updates either came from wifi, or USB. If you want to update via USB, make sure it's a USB 3.0 or higher, as 2.0 sticks sometimes tend to slow down a lot with a lot of read requests, and the update can fail.

Perhaps experience. My 2019 ffh barely has electric performance left. It barely does 3 to 5 blocks max on electricity. The rest of the car is practically new. So, no, the battery doesn't seem to like either long highway rides or draining it till below empty. I'm fairly sure out of the 200 something cells at least 100 are bad. Another thing, the newer (i think post 2017) models can have the electric motor run at above 65mph, which drains and wears the battery real fast.

No, Heat pumps are modified AC units that can go in reverse. Instead of the freon be compressed and cause heat on one end, and cool on the other, the pump becomes a generator, generating electricity, as the hot side of freon is being heated by outside air, expanding the freon, which pushes the pump motor, and goes to the cold side where it shrinks as it gives off heat... thus allowing for a mild heating to happen using outside air. It's one of the few devices that works at an efficiency over 100% (it generates electricity, rather than use it).

One thing on the energi, if you drive it regularly, you won't ever need to change the batteries. The energi has an 80hp electric motor, while the ffh has a 40hp electric motor. The FFH has lots of people complaining on reduced range (and mpg) past 100k miles. The battery on the energi, will probably last you 400k miles easily. The FFH only half that, and will cost a lot to replace the battery. In the end the energi makes more sense (financially), if you plan to drive it a lot (like 500k miles in 5 to 10 years).

What mileage and miles you have? Many threads say after 150k miles the battery is pretty much toast.