MeeLee

I came in late in the conversation, but sometimes having the car in ECO mode, forces it to ride on the electric motor, until you press the throttle in much deeper. Error codes seem to happen due to a low battery, and usually turning off the car, and turning it on again, is enough to have the main high voltage battery add some charge to the 12V for the minutes that it's on, for it to start the car just fine (without error codes). My car mainly seems to turn the 'brakes' light on, and sometimes regenerative braking doesn't work (actually drains the battery rather than charges it) and the sensor for parking brake release doesn't work, so I'd manually have to press the brake, before turning off the parking brake. The brake light remains on, until I restart the car, and if I don't drive it for 2 days in a row, same thing happens.

Best would probably be to replace it with a 12 V lithium battery, for longevity. Although I'm not sure if the charging circuit will work properly, as it disconnects when the battery has sufficient charge. And Lithium batteries generally keep sufficient voltage, until the whole unit is near to empty. Other than that, you can always replace the 12V battery with a 12V battery that's larger in size. For instance, my stock 500CCA Subaru battery was replaced with a slightly larger F150 battery which had 800CCA, and as a result, also runs the electronics for longer. The subaru is notorious for the electronics draining the battery over a time of 2 weeks. With the F150 battery, it now can last a good 2-3 months. I think similarly you'll be able to find some very affordable value batteries in Walmart stores. Just make sure the battery dimensions will fit.

did you check the 12V battery? Lots of errors are due to a low 12V battery.

Was just a suggestion. High octane fuel does increase MPG, with the sweet spot an entire tank of mid-grade (no noticeable performance or MPG increases with high octane vs mid-grade). But the MPG increase (usually ~10%) doesn't justify the price difference (~25%); as in my town regular is $3.50 and premium is $4.50.

If your engine is cold, you don't have engine heat helping out. You can, in park, keep the throttle pressed in halfway, which will engage the motor, and increase engine temps. See if that helps. When the engine is cold, and you get no heat, the electric heater elements are not working. But you can still get heat from the engine. If the engine isn't able to heat up the cabin, it would mean you have a clogged heater core (highly unlikely), or are running without coolant (even more highly unlikely).

You should definitely replace the 12V battery, Just remove the grocery bag lugs (tunk liner lugs), move the liner out of the way, and replace with a Li-Ion battery if you're frequently driving in the cold.

Anybody else noticed that regen on eco coasting, or even when applying the brakes, is actually draining the battery, rather than recharging them? I know because the blue battery indicator usually drops by about 25% after a long brake. The electric motor does brake, but it seems to use up energy, rather than store it. What would be the cause?

A good time to use the lowest possible octane fuel. High octane fuel is nearly useless in such cases, and really only benefits hotter climates.

Did you check if the climate controls are set to driver only, or passenger/driver? If passenger/driver, you'll be able to see 2 different temperatures on the display. I always use 1 temperature, for driver and passenger.

I start in normal mode, and cruise in eco mode. So basically eco mode, except at starting the vehicle, or when trying to turn on the engine (say when driving between 30-50MPH on electric, and just need to jolt the engine on, I'll press the eco button to disengage it). Normal (non-eco) mode, also runs the engine at slightly higher RPM, resulting in lower MPG. (in my case, 40MPG instead of 42 in eco). Eco mode also occasionally hits that 50MPG sweet spot, which I never get in normal mode. This seems to happen more when using high-octane gas, and when drafting a truck, or going downhill, or having a back wind.

Usually when you have more than 6k miles on synthetic oil, you can feel the engine vibration more easily. 7k on Amazon Basic, or Mobil 1 synthetic oil. 6k on most other brands. Never use dino oil (the cheap kind) for this car! Dino oil is not that much cheaper compared to synthetic oil, but it doesn't last more than a day (a few hundred miles) before engine vibrations become more noticeable.

chances are lower on FFH, they aren't as popular as Honda's or Toyotas. They're also located right under the engine, as opposed to near the muffler on other vehicles. Theft is still possible though.

My 2019 model probably uses the same filter as you, and it's still clean like new at 100k miles. If you drive around in a lot of dust, or polluted city, your mileage may vary. Low MPG could be because of: 1- lowly inflated, or cheap tires. Always make sure your tires are inflated to at least 35PSI, preferably 40PSI cold. They do increase PSIs as they get warmer, usually up to 5PSI for good quality 1st world country, rubber tires, and 7PSI for second world (China) silicon tires. I always try to stay as close to the MAX rated PSI rating (usually 1-3PSI under) , on a hot day after driving on the highway for a bit. Most modern tires can handle 45PSI just fine, and silicon tires are usually rated up to 50PSI nowadays. So putting 40PSI in them works quite well where I live. 2- Winter cold. Due to denser air, you may notice lower MPGs, because the engine needs to inject more fuel per stroke. This is normal, and would even out when warmer. You can always insert a cardboard between the bumper and radiator, in an effort to keep that engine running hot, if you live in areas where the temperature is lower than 50F most of the time. 3- Oil change intervals, You should never exceed 6k miles on full synthetic oil on these engines; with the exception to Mobil 1 and Amazon Basic oil which can last up to 7k miles. 4- air and fuel filters. Change engine air filter and fuel filter every 100k miles. Change cabin air filter (not MPG related) every ~33k miles.

My battery is only 2 years old, and I get errors as well. As far as changing brake pads, I used to own a Chevy Cruze, 3700LBS car, and it lasted 66k miles on the brakes. The Fusion is 4400LBS, but up to 40HP is used on regen (80 for the PHEV/Energi model). Especially if you're braking on regen mostly, you won't need to change brake pads for at least the first 150-175k miles.

My car shows 600 miles range. About halfway it shows roughly 300 miles of range. I would guess I would have driven 300 miles by that time, but stride indicates anywhere from 200-250miles. Ford is giving me more range than there is fuel!

The FFH is pretty quiet! So quiet I can actually hear the climate control fan whirring at setting 1.

Hope it's not the wrong engine oil. Using dino engine oil is worse than using synthetic with 8k miles of use.

Bad time to buy a car now. they're all overpriced. Bought mine for $15k, now same car, same color, same mileage, same trim, same dealer is $22k. I'm at 75k miles, and my front CV joints are ticking.

2019 Hybrid, also A pillar noise on both passenger and driver side. Started at around 60k miles; much more pronounced now at 75k miles. you can temporarily make it go away by squeezing the pillar plastic back into place. I was thinking about using some expanding foam in between the dashboard and the A-pillar crevices, to push it back into place.

The 1.4kW battery has at least 400 Watts reserve, to start the engine, and to charge the 12V battery off of. Only ~1kW is for actual driving. The energi has like ~7kW for driving, and the 2019 models and up ~8.5kW. You can see some sort of battery charge, in the empower window on a 2019 hybrid model. I just wished they would fuse the empower and engage displays, as engage is better to show engine and motor power output, and the other is better to see the SOC and to keep the throttle in the right position to run the car at that point where the motor will either engage or disengage.

Makes sense. The hybrid would always show 50% charge. The battery charge used for electric driving is only a few percent of the total battery capacity. Unlike the energi, which has a much larger percentage of the battery cells dedicated to electric driving.

LEDs was the first update I did on mine as well. Yes, the low beams are underwhelming on the fusions. I see you have a later model, due to the blacked out fog light cavities on the front bumper. Something I preferred on the older (2018 and before) models. They actually did a step backwards with this. The second upgrade I did, was mount a dashcam, and install (legal) tints. 24k was the initial starting price for the FFH, 2012 I believe.

The TFT screen has the CPU built underneath it, and uses the screen as a heat sink. This may feel like the TFT is emanating quite some heat, especially if you're running any android auto maps like Waze on it, or play games on it. Should be less noticeable when using the ford app (radio, audio entertainment, or off).

I bought mine at 15k from the dealer (second hand). While waiting for the paperwork, I connected to the dealership network, and updated it over the air (wifi). When I left, the salesman was in awe, that it had Android Auto. It's really easy to do. Either you connect it to your home network (or an available network with good connection), or you use your vin number on the FOrd Sync website and use a USB drive (or SD or microSD card with adaptor) and install the update via the USB. The instructions are pretty simple, though the latest firmware flashed incompletely. I tried it out 3x on 2 different devices with the same issues. Despite the update not fully completing, everything still seems to work fine. The only thing missing is the XML file the device should write on the drive. I'm guessing it has something to do with write privileges or something. So the FW update can't verify my system update online.

The 2020 year model is the last one they've made. They're like luxury cars compared to the Prius. For 2021, Ford doesn't make the Fusion anymore. My 2ct: If you drive the car a bit, and charge up the battery, make sure it's not in eco mode, and push the pedal to the metal, it has nice pickup. Nothing too fancy, but fast enough. The electric motor (though only 40HP), has high torque, so it makes the car feel pretty fast (at least for a 0-30 to 0-45MPH time). With a full battery, the car will accelerate from 0-118MPH (car's top speed), in one run with both engine and motor at the same time, after which the battery will be depleted. I did wish they had equipped the Fusion Hybrid with the 80HP motor found in the Energy and Maverick, for an even better acceleration on the motor only from 30-45MPH, as the 40HP motor is kind of sluggish there; and the 40HP motor is great for wet roads, but it'll need quite some extra HP before wheel spin happens on dry pavement. The battery of the Maverick is smaller than the Fusion, and yet it has a bigger motor, and supports it just fine, so theoretically it should be possible to upgrade the motor to an 80HP one, so long the controller supports it. I bought my 2019 model in February, just before the chip shortage, and paid $15k for it (with 33k miles on). 6 months later the exact same car (same color, same year and model) was sold for $22k. The Fusion Hybrid came out originally at $24k. So you basically paid the new price for the car. Not saying you made a bad buy, but like you said, due to the shortage, everything is more expensive.