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Hello all, I've newly bought a used 2015 FFH, it's now at 160,000 and I'm about to do my first Oil Change, so I'm also going to have the Transmission fluid changed as well. As I've tried to lookup instructions for changing the fluid online, I came across comments in some about a "high pressure side" filter which is changeable as well as the internal one which isn't unless the unit is broken down like a rebuild. I'm curious if those with a 2013 or newer model with the same tranny have any advice, recommendations, experiences you might be able to provide so I make sure not to miss a small but crucial detail. So if you can provide any feedback on the following questions, please do. 2015 FFH with 160,000, unknown history, so presuming original fluid is present in the transis there an external filter, perhaps called a High Pressure filter, recommended to be replaced during fluid replacement?Any thoughts/experiences using a Trans cleaner/flush product at the time of the fluid change?I'm going to be using AMS/OIL's High Efficiency ATF fluid, anyone have experience with this product? Look forward to any feedback which can be offered, Thanks for your time, James

I have a 2013 ford fusion energi titanium with most of the extras, like keyless ignition, keyless entry, etc. Starting about a year ago my fuel filler door would randomly pop open. So i replaced the button. This seemed to help for a month or so. Then it started doing it again. Wasnt a big issue because its just the door. So i didnt bother with the actuator or sensor during that time. About 6 months passes with it randomly opening, then noticed it got worse. Now it would pop open when the car was parked and off. Seemingly on its own, as the modules were shutting down. And once it pops, i closed it, without turning on car or opening the doors. Only for it to pop on its own like 2 minutes later. However due to this the low voltage battery began to drain while the car was parked. Requiring a jump almost everytime. Sometimes if the car hadn't sat long, i could start it but occasionally not all the modules would power up. Like the radio and lcd stayed off a few times, sometimes it would say "key not detected" despite starting right up with a push of the button, meanwhile the same error message is shown on the instrument cluster. After getting forscan and running a few diagnostics and checking parts i determined the actuator works fine and the sensor is properly functioning, at the correct voltages. Thus concluded the problem lies elsewhere. However i cannot for the life of me find it. Now after so long and noticing patterns, ive learned more. If i switch into or out of park on the gear shift, it immediately pops the fuel door. And i was showing a low voltage error on the transmission control module and the pcm (which runs the fuel door button, sensor and actuator). So i took the shifter apart and confirmed good connections between its sensors and no mechanical parts are touching or anywhere near the wire harness for the fuel door button, which is right next to the shifter. The wire harness wraps around another direction, seemingly to avoid that problem. But now im stuck in the dark. Everything seems to have good connections. The car runs fine after a jump and the battery still holds a charge when tested out of the car. The car shifts fine. And im thinking the drain is caused by the "close fuel door" error shows on the instrument cluster, even after the car has been parked, powered off and locked up. The fuel door will pop like 5 mins later and the error will show on the lcd of the instrument cluster, but wont turn off as long as the door is open. If i close the door. It turns off, but then then comes back on a few minutes later when the door inevitably pops again on its own. Im at my whitt's end with this thing. Someone please help me. Do i need to get the pcm changed? Or is it the tcm? Maybe just a bad connector in the engine bay? Any suggestions will help. Even if its just tests to run on forscan. Hell i think i can stop the drain if i can turn off the "close fuel door" alert in the instrument cluster. But i cant figure out how on forscan.

I have just started to monitor my Transmission Fluid Temp(TFT) and I was able to get to 250*F on the FWY after about 30 minutes. Talked to my FORD SM he said that the operating temp should be 200-220*F so I got worried. I just talked to a FORD AutoNation(Electric Dealer)SW who talked to Transmission Specialist who looked it up and said it(Transmission Electronics) will trip a code at 301*F and come up with a wrench symbol. I'm surprised that it could go that high without hurting something. I'm not really having any problems with the Transmission. Paul

Hi, I have a 2010 FFH with 132K. Is anyone else experiencing what feels to me like turbo lag when accelerating from a dead stop? I know I don't have a turbo (wishful thinking), but there seems to be an acceleration lag in the transmission and/or engine before the car gets up to speed. It seems to be prevalent in the last year or so. Any ideas as to what's causing it or how to fix it? Thanks, Tim

Hey all, So I just borrowed my mother's 2016 ford fusion hybrid to run a quick errand (my Civic Type R is on jacks in garage upgrading motor mounts). I was driving slowly, probably all electric power, then I decided to check the HP on this bad boy, so I hit the gas pretty hard I guess. I was decently impressed with the acceleration! It was no more than 10 seconds of hard acceleration. Got to the bank, got out to use ATM with car still running. When I came back to car, I noticed I could hear the gas engine was still running and then I saw a white smoke in the light shining from the headlights. Then I saw alot of smoke at the back of the car. The smell definitely raised a red flag. Distinct strong burning smell. My guess would be transmission fluid. I seriously was worried the car was on fire somehow. That's the kind of smell I was experiencing. Jumped in, turned car off. Sat a couple minutes. Looked arond. No more smoke. Turned car back on and all was silent as it should be, with no smoke, no smell. I verrrry slowly drove back home, using electric power the whole way. What in the world could possibly be going on ????? Interesting to note here..... My mother has had it 1.5 years and she drives sssssssllllllooooooowwwwwwww ! I'm talking about, she is OBSESSED with trying to get the absolute best fuel economy any human being has ever achieved. It's like a fun game/challenge to her. I'm seriously guessing she has possibly NEVER even pressed the gas pedal enough for the gas engine to cut on. Is this why I had that experience tonight? Maybe there was no tranny fluid coating the gears ? Maybe the gas engine had no oil coverage? Maybe something had gotten gunked up after all this time of not using the engine's combustion for acceleration? Please help me try to figure this out. VERY curious what's going on. I guess I gotta tell her what happened. She, of course, is gonna blame me entirely......

Sorry for posting this again but I wanted to make my own topic to make sure this is seen. I have a 2014 SE FFH with about 48K miles on it. In March 2018, I had transmission leak in my 2014 SE after only 42900 miles and they eventually replaced the transmission after trying twice to fix the leak.Now in Sept 2018 I experienced the dreaded "Stop Safely Now On Sept 17 2018, I was backing out of a parking space and the car just shutdown with a shudder and I saw the red triangle and "Stop Safely Now" on the dash. I cycled power and tried to drive again and it stopped again after 20 feet of driving. Now I was sticking out in a lane in the parking lot so I tried one more time to move the car. Again, the SSN message came up but I kept driving on electric only (at about 2 miles/hr) until I could get to another safe parking lot and out of the way. I had the car moved via flatbed to the Ford dealer and for a few days they tried to fix it. At first they couldn't duplicate the issue but once they did, the "fix" was to reflash the PCM. They kept the car another day to test it and then it failed five times in a row. One more day at the dealer and then they tell me they have ordered new high voltage cables that run between the PCM and the transmission. After a couple more days, the new cables came in and the car was "repaired" again. They had a valet/porter test-drive the car after the cable replacement and it died on him the same way it did to me. Stop Safely Now appeared on the dash. He tried multiple times to get it going but could not. They had to tow it back to the dealership. (My car is spending a lot of time getting rides on flatbed trucks.) Their next thought was to replace the trans again but Ford HQ said to replace the TCM instead.So that part was ordered, I waited a few days and sure enough the car still failed after the TCM replacement. So now they have finally got approval to replace the trans. So this will be my 3rd trans in this four year old car. It has now been 19 days of this. Next week we will see if the car finally works. How much confidence do I have in Ford now? Not very much. I find it hard to believe that when the car decides to stop with the SSN message that the software doesn't store a set of codes in memory that can be used to diagnosis the issue. The software is telling the car to shutdown so it should store the reason in flash so that someone can figure it out later. The dealer did give me a loaner after the car had been in the shop for 8 days but I had to ask for it.

Purchased a 2014 Fusion Titanium Hybrid last summer. Has been babied and garage kept and now at 15,000 miles. Was pleased with the car at first even though it has never averaged more than 38.5 mpg. Things have gone from bad to worse and I'm now seeking advice on what to do next? Here's the short version: On its first (early) oil change, a Ford dealer tech made a small hole in the oil filter causing a slow leak and it took about a month before I noticed oil on the garage floor due to the aerodynamic cover under the engine. Luckily, I noticed it at all and put a new filter on myself and topped the oil level (1.5 quarts low). While underneath the car I found transmission fluid leaking from the transmission housing and pointed it out to (a different) dealer at the next oil change. The cover and the undercarriage of our "new" car is still soaked with oil despite my attempts to clean it up. A few weeks ago I dropped the car off so the transmission could be re-sealed. Also asked for repair of what sounds to be like a bad half shaft or bearing popping on the driver's side at low speeds, of course dealer could not duplicate. Dealer turned the car quickly and all seemed fine with the transmission nonetheless. Last Wednesday, I was on the way to the store at 9:30 PM, the car made a "pop" noise from the left side under the hood and immediately lost power. The "stop safely now" and triangle illuminated on the ip and the car stalled and would not re-start. I called roadside assistance and they picked the car up on a flatbed. The dealer called Thursday and stated that the car had blown a 125 amp fuse and they were looking for the root cause. Dealer called Friday and reported that they had ordered over $6,000 worth of electrical components, including the A/C compressor. Said they think the A/C compressor shorted out and took several other components with it as well. Isn't the purpose of a fuse to protect electrical components? I asked if the car would ever be the same and how long the repairs might take because I am paying for a rental every day it is in the shop. The service writer was personable, but could not really give me an answer and said he'd call when more information becomes available. Has anyone else's car ever blown the 125 amp fuse? Is this car doomed? Can it be fixed or should I seek help from Ford or legal aid? What has happened to quality at Ford? My 2013 f-150 Lariat 4X4 has been pretty bad with numerous warranty visits, including leaks, but it never died on the road and left me stranded. This Fusion Hybrid appears to be a lemon and I'm not comfortable with my wife driving it if we ever get it back from the dealer. Really disappointed because I have owned several good Ford trucks and have recommended many Ford products to friends and neighbors. Anyone been in this situation? Advice?

Hello everyone. I have a 2014 Ford fusion hybrid titanium edition. I’ve gone to the same dealer that I purchased it from for all oil changes and service and tires. I Bought my car from Pratchett’s Ford, then Price Ford bought them up. I have 152,000 miles on that car which is 2 1/2 years old. Yes, it’s a lot but it’s my commute car. I drive 160 miles a day for work. I have always maintained my car through Price Ford. I get green check marks all the time. It was just serviced a couple months ago. I passed with all green checks. Last weekend my hubby pointed out a noise. I thought alignment. He said more like rear wheel bearings that failed. We dropped off the car and mentioned the noise, BUT not what we thought. I received a call later telling us that my car needed new rear wheel bearings. The cost was about $750.00. I said go ahead, please change them. 3 days later I called to check status. My service advisor Curtis said they changed them. But it didn’t help with the noise. He said I need a brand new transmission on my hybrid. I was shocked. He also said it would be about $7,000.00. Please keep in mind, I still have my ORIGINAL brake pads and my average speed daily is 55-50 MPH. I know what a bad tranny sounds like and how it moves. My previous vehicles I had one replaced. There are a handful of articles on the Internet about 2014 Ford Fusion Hybrid tranny going out. Honestly, it’s very rare. Cutis also said he has never seen a hybrid come in for a new tranny. I called Ford customer service and basically, they said sorry we can’t help you. I feel Ford should be responsible for: 1. the cost of the repair or 2. the buyback program for my car. I’ve looked on the BBB regarding the auto line for Ford and if this doesn’t get resolved between Ford and I I’m going to go that route. My extended warranty ended at 125,000 miles. I was told when I purchased the car from Patchett's to upgrade to the highest miles package. I did. I was never notified by Ford that my warranty was coming to an end. The many cars I’ve had a most professional dealership and or manufactures will notify the customer of the warranty ending and offer an extension. I never received or was told anything.

Here is an excellent explanation about how the powersplit device in a hybrid works. The difference between the FFH & Fusion Energi is that the MG1 is larger in the Energi which allows it to reach a higher speed in EV mode (85 MPH vs 62 MPH). This is exactly how our cars work, the difference being that the gear ratio is different because of different size MG1, MG2 and engine. Toyota and Ford both use this design for their hybrids and this technology is why the Ford & Toyota hybrids are superior to hybrids made by Honda, Kia, Hyundai, Volkswagen or GM. All the other manufacturers place an electric motor sandwiched between the engine and the automatic transmission. That is a less efficient design than what Ford & Toyota have done. The other hybrids are "one motor" hybrids, whereas the Ford & Toyota hybrids are "two motor" hybrids as they have 2 electric motor/generators as shown in the video. The next gen Honda Accord Hybrid and Plug-in Hybrid introduces a two motor hybrid system for Honda, their first. It will be interesting to see if it is engineered the same as I believe Toyota and Ford own the patents for this design.

Hello everyone, Just wanted to see if anyone else was suffering from "jerking" transmission. This problem started occurring in my 2015 Ford Fusion Energi about a week ago. It started with an occasional jerk under either light to moderate braking or acceleration, where for a moment it would seem that I would either loose regenerative braking (during braking) or loose power to the wheels (acceleration). The problem generally occurs once or twice when driving after startup, and can happen with the transmission cold or warm, and then goes away. The jerking or shudder occurs for only a moment or a few seconds. It occurs both with the electric motor, and the ICE, though the problem is much more noticeable when it happens with the ICE. No trouble codes have been set. Besides this problem, the car drives and handles fine, and provides no other clues (leaks, smells, discolored materials) that something is wrong. The real problem I've had (other than trying to diagnosis this) is to be able to get the problem to repeat. It's not consistent- sometimes it will happen, other times it won't. All my attempts to get the problem to repeat have so far failed. As soon as I can get the problem to occur consistently, I'll drive it down to the dealership, and be able to give precise instructions to a tech on how to illicit the problem. And yes, the car was purchased new and has 3200 original miles on it. Any thoughts or suggestions are appreciated. Thanks, Rbrt

I started my car up this morning and none of the instrument cluster lights came on. However the engine started up and was able to put the transmission into drive. I drove out of the garage and then all the lights came on (like during a normal engine start). However, after that it gave me a message saying 'Service AdvanceTrac' and the traction control lights stayed on. I dropped it off at the dealer, and later the dealer calls me and says that they had to reset the 'computer' and it's good to go. Is this a transmission issue waiting to happen? Wanted to know to make sure the dealer wouldn't take me for a ride. Appreciate any info on this.