drolds1

All dealers pay the same amount to the factory. There are no "volume discounts." It's illegal for the factory to charge different dealers different amounts for the same car. They get the cars "well below invoice" due to dealer holdbacks and other cash incentives that vary by car and time of the year.

Don't make the common mistake of assuming there's something wrong with a sensor when you get a code. The code is telling you that there may problem with the evaporative emissions system, fuel tank pressure sensor , hoses to the fuel tank, a problem in the circuitry itself or the PCM. It needs to be diagnosed properly. Just throwing parts at it may or may not fix the problem. You could end up wasting money on unneeded hardware and frustrating yourself. This isn't to say it isn't the the sensor itself. Just be aware that it may not be. You might want to consider purchasing a service manual.

I was thinking the same thing.

Buyers of The Nissan Leaf are entitled to the same $7500 rebate. And it's enough with the tired 'Government Motors" thing already. We get it. I resent my tax money being used for a lot of other things I consider worse than a credit for EVs. Not much we can do about , can we?

The iron particles embedded in the paint soon start to rust when exposed to the weather. If left there, pitting can occur as the rust progresses.

Sounds like a classic case of rail dust, which is fairly common in new vehicles transported by train. While it's considered environmental fallout and technically not covered by the B to B warranty, Ford should help you out here. From your warranty guide: bbf2530 is probably more well-versed on this than I am. Maybe he'll weigh in. For the record, if there's no paint damage yet, the iron particles can be removed with a clay bar. I'd contact the dealer first. Let them assess the damage to the paint, if any. Let us know what happens.

You didn't say how many miles are on your car, but I agree that your battery might be bad. Your problems may very well be due to the corroded terminal. Did you buy this car from a dealer or privately? Any kind of warranty? Always start with the most obvious solution. Change the corroded terminal, as xmech2K says. However, do not cut off the old terminal and splice on one of those terminals you see hanging on a rack in the parts store. Those are temporary solutions at best. Replace the entire cable with an OE or quality part. This is the only was to be assured that the terminal ends are properly bonded to the cable, ensuring full voltage and corrosion protection. When that's all done, you can have your battery retested with a load tester. If it's on its last legs, get a new one and you should be OK.

I suggested something similar in June. For some reason the OP posted this in two different places. It's gentlemanly of you (as you always are) to apologize for the delayed response, bbf, Too bad the OP didn't lacked similar courtesy, didn't bother to say thank you, much less report back.

Don't forget you might be entitled to an insurance discount for DRLs. You don't get a discount for covering the light sensor. ;)

Yes. In the police blotter section of my Sunday paper, that's all you see: Nav units stolen from cars in which they were left visible. These are usually "smash and grab" type thefts. So you wind up with a broken window as well. There have even been reports of thefts when the unit wasn't visible. The tell- tale circle left on the windshield by the rubber suction cup was the giveaway. The Ford battery saver feature doesn't cut power to the headlights. It only cuts power to the interior and trunk lights. There are switched cigarette lighter adapters.

Agree. An excellent product, as are most of the 3M products. Any haze can be removed with polishing compound.

Try clear coat safe rubbing compound.

Hence, my use of the term "spark plug wires per se."

The Duratec 3.0 has coil-on-plug (COP) ignition. There are no spark plug wires per se. A bad COP can definitely cause a misfire condition.

You have my full sympathy. :P

:hysterical: Oh, face it. You're jealous. :yup:

Good advice. DO NOT hack into your steering column wiring. You have a brand new car. You could end up with warranty issues. If your planned mod draws 10 amps or less, an Add-A-Circuit adapter is your best solution. Any well-stocked auto parts store should carry it. No cutting, splicing, etc. Easily removed should you want to return to stock.

Without knowing what's wrong, it's not possible to estimate what it will cost to fix, especially over the Internet. One thing is certain, though. You need to get this looked at ASAP. Driving for too long with a misfire will damage your catalytic converter(s) and that will get very costly.

Don't know about where you live, but plenty of new car dealers around here have them, including mine. Lexicon doesn't have to get up from his keyboard to find one. Hunter has a locator on their site here.

This generation of rain-sensing wipers works flawlessly.

You're in luck. Permatex has just released a wheel restoration kit for metallic silver painted wheels. You should be able to repair that; it's pretty minor. I repaired some pretty bad curb rash on my 2000 Lincoln LS painted wheels, long before there was any OTC help , using increasingly fine grades of sandpaper and Dupli-Color wheel paint. Conceptually, it was quite similar to this new kit. There are professional wheel repair places, but that might be too small a job for them. Can't hurt to ask around. As for the ding in the roof, if the paint isn't broken, it might be repairable using paintless dent repair (PDR). You can either search online for someone local or ask your dealer. They all contract out PDR. A skilled tech can do wonders. Sorry about the damage. It is really upsetting with a new car.

"Leather seating surfaces only" is a long-standing, common practice in the industry. You can spend much more money than you did on the Fusion and not even get leather as standard, e.g., BMW. If you don't know this already, it might comfort you to know that Leatherette, commonly known as vinyl, is the standard seating material in the BMW 528. Leather is a $1400 option. The MSRP, without options, is over $45G. You'd expect it on a car in this price range. Same goes for some M-B models as well. So, I wouldn't feel too bad about it. It might not be the best quality leather in the world, but at least you got the genuine article. I received a letter and samples from Lincoln stating that only Leather Master products should be used in my MKZ. MKS owners received the same packet. However, these cars use different leather from that in the Fusion. I really don't know if this is just a promotional tie-in, as was the case with BP fuel in Fords (imagine them recommending BP these days), or not. I did use the samples they gave me and was quite pleased with the results. Obviously, you could use them in your Fusion as well. You can use any quality leather cleaner & conditioner in your Fusion, but as bbf2530 states, never use a product designed only for vinyl on your leather seats. They have much harsher cleaners in them.

The 2010 MKZ has a sliding console lid. At least it's a Ford part :P

It''s now virtually impossible to find 100% cotton towels made in the USA. I used to use Cannon-Fieldcrest but they were bought by a company called Pillowtex and they refused to move their manufacturing overseas. Since no good deed goes unpunished, they're now out of business. I believe the only towel factory left in the USA is "1888 Mills." You can purchase at Macy's or order from Amazon. Personally, I've switched to high-quality microfiber. You might want to consider it as well. High-quality, dedicated MF towels will not harm your finish. Professional detailers use them, so you needn't worry. I get mine from Autogeek but there are plenty of other places.

Jerry, if the warning went off and stays off, there's no need for concern. You also don't need worry about it being unsafe to drive with the message on. You won't harm anything. However, Advancetrac will be inoperative. If it happens with any frequency, take it in for service. A trouble code should be stored for diagnostic purposes.