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All that deep thought and consideration without doing some basic math. The difference between 42mpg and 48mpg is about 30 gallons of fuel over 10,000 miles. At $3.50/gallon, that's about $100 every 10,000 miles. So if you spend $300 to restore back to "full" battery health, you will need 30,000 miles just to break even. But based on your data, in another 30,000 miles you'll have lost what you gained back, so you'll have to do it again. Basically you'll never come out ahead, so why take the risk of damaging or ruining it? Never mind the safety considerations, do you really think your rideshare insurance would be ok knowing you've got a homemade high-voltage battery pack sitting a foot away from your paying passengers?

I don't have this feature but if I had to guess, each tire's TPMS is pre-programmed to its location eg. LR for Left Rear. Since you moved the tire from the left rear to the left front, the car does not know that. It's displaying the air pressure from the left rear tire, thinking it's still in its original location.

I just did the described process (x2) and it worked! Thanks to everyone who chimed in here.

All you ever wanted to know ... right here: https://fordfusionhybridforum.com/topic/8437-all-from-dealer-method-for-obtaining-spare-tire-with-research-notes-and-installation-tips/ I bought the new stuff with my '15 FFH and it all fit perfectly. They changed the well some for '20 (and I assume '19) which makes it slightly problematic fitting the tire in due to the HVB case bolt changes they made. There's one that stops the insertion of the spare itself. For a lot less expensive method, go to a salvage yard and see if you can get all the pieces from a 2013+ ICE Fusion. That's mentioned in the thread as well.

Connecting rod failure? I've never seen one happen on a Fusion Hybrid. Very fortunate to have that warranty.

Yes, the Douglas touring tires I have, cost half the price, are quieter, have more grip, and at its current rate break even in the amount of miles I'm getting out of them (about 50k miles).

They say to generally not store the ev battery at full charge when storing for longer than a few weeks. Ideally your hveb should be about 50% charge. Don't worry about it failing. So long the 12v battery works, it can jump start the engine which will start the charging process. Ideally you will want to disconnect the positive terminal on the 12v battery, (and keep the trunk open, if you want easy access to the 12v). I think the 12v only needs to be charged one day a month or so. Without the positive terminal connected, it won't lose much charge over time.

Yup ... that's the button! It should display a green "Eco" below and slightly right of the speedometer. If you are pressing it with no change, dealer is the way to go.

You have to understand that the TPMS sensors only send out a ping of data once every 2 minutes or so (unless there's a dramatic change in pressure, then it sends out immediately). So no surprise it didn't react right away, especially if you're carrying the wheel with the 4th sensor in the car. I'm not quite sure how it triangulates where each sensor is , but I know it takes quite a few of the 2 minutes cycles for it to be sure that you've actually rotated your tires.

What are the "big milestones"? Oil, air filters, coolant change, even spark plugs are all things that can be handled by anybody. I don't see any other regular maintenance that requires a dealer.

There is no regular maintenance required on the Fusion Hybrid that any good mechanic can't do. You have to change the coolant for the hybrid system separatly than the regular coolant, but in the end, it's still just changing coolant. I did it myself in my garage.

I, too, have a 2015 SE Hybrid. I’ve chosen to do the scheduled major maintenance milestones at the dealership for the reasons you listed in your next to last paragraph. Oil changes, tire rotation and the like are done by local mechanics. BTW, isn’t this the greatest car you’ve had in a long time? Ours has been absolutely trouble free from Day 1.

The gas engine for this car is almost like any other gas engine so you should be able to service it at a local mechanic. I changed the oil myself and it was the same as other cars that I've owned. Your local mechanic should have access to the Ford factory service manuals and data if needed.

Cost cutting. None of the 2019 models have glove compartment lights anymore, together with less USB ports, and no line in anymore.

Once in a while it won't harm much. Best thing you can do, after the water subsides, is to spray the undercarriage with a garden hose.

Depends on where you live. Salted roads are the worst for anything on the undercarriage.

Thanks. It's always garaged. I hand wash it and then polish it twice a year too

buy titanium

I checked the link and pictures. Almost looks like it has flood damage by all the interior and underhood dirt. Check engine light is on. Why would you want to buy this and sink an unknown amount of money into it?? I personally would not take it even if it was free. Good luck.

Whether that was a good price or not depends on how much it will cost to repair. Obviously the insurance company (State Farm) thought it would cost more to repair than the car was worth. So they totaled it and sold it at auction with a salvage title.

Although I don't have that 2015 now, I can say that it was one of the earliest 2015 FFHs. I bought it new in late October 2014.

I have no experience with this but hopefully it will be garaged. I found this blog: https://www.carpro.com/blog/how-to-care-for-your-ev-or-hybrid-when-not-in-regular-use Hope it helps!

I know this is an old post, so just sharing this in case someone else more current stumbles across it looking for key/fob replacement alternatives. Our son just got a 2014 FFH that only came with 1 key fob. Dealership quoted him $275 for key (not sure that included programing or not). Saw advice for buying elsewhere and getting it cut and programmed at a locksmith. Got this 2 key fob set off Amazon for $33 out the door: 2013-2016 FFH Key Fob Local locksmith charges $125 to cut and program both keys. They mentioned IF we had the original 2 keys we could program ourselves very simply in the cars ignition through a small multi step procedure, but since he is down to 1 key, we’d need a tool we don’t have. Just leaving this link and info here to help others down the road. Nearly half what the dealership was going to charge for 1 spare, and he will now have 2 spares.

My 2014 has a warning message on the dashboard to replace the keyfob batteries.

I like it! If you want to decrease body roll a bit, add a Strut Tower Brace from Steeda. Steering tightens up a small bit but body roll is decreased. Driveway install. The Steeda hood struts allow open hood without using the bar ... also driveway install.

Today I paid $349 to have a CarMax 2017 FFH SE, with burgundy paint (which I love), tan leather seats, tech package, etc, with 60K miles, shipped from Idaho to the CarMax location in the SF Bay Area where I am. Then I'll test drive it for 24 hours and if I like it, I'll buy it. I'll have it inspected by a Ford dealer near me, and if that doesn't go well I can return the car to CarMax within 30 days for a full refund. I got pre-approved for the loan from them on the phone! If I find a better loan deal, I can pay off the CarMax loan with no penalty. CarMax makes it so easy to buy a car, and offers features and protections you just don't see elsewhere. Here's a pic of that car.

I'm curious, how long have your hybrid batteries lasted? What is the average lifespan/milage I should expect from a 2015?

Does your owner's manual cite a specific recommended interval? I'm pretty sure it's 150,000 miles. If your dealer is claiming Ford recommends less, I'd be ask to see the reference.

In my experience of the whole situation, I started out just for funsies asking the dealership for a quote on replacement. They came back with over $5000 just for the freaking battery! Not including any labor. I purchased a high voltage hybrid battery for my 2017 Fusion from Ebay at a cost of around $2000. This included price of the battery, plus freight, plus core. Doner vehicle was a 2019 with around 35,000 miles on it. (Very important to know the miles the battery has on it if purchasing used.) Most importantly if you are any kind of mechanically inclined you can do a battery swap in around 3 hours yourself. It helps if you do a little internet searching and download the official Ford hybrid battery removal PDF. If you are careful and go step by step, your car will run like its brand new. In addendum, no relearn process is required. Its as easy as changing a few AA's. Save yourself thousands, its a process anyone can do. 2017-Fusion-MKZ-HEV-Battery-Removal-Guide-Final.pdf

Just got back from a round trip drive from the San Francisco Bay Area to Palm Desert, California. 1,070 miles (including a bit of local driving), 80 mph on I-5 and I-10, 70-75 mph otherwise (except for the bit of local driving). 45 mpg displayed (probably 43 mpg actual) overall. I'd call that really good considering all the high-speed driving. My 2015 FFH has 99K miles (and 8 years, 3 months) and I see no sign at all of anything changing for the worse. Also, I'm still on the original 12v battery, and had no problem starting the car after it sat for five days in Palm Desert before driving again.

We have one of the 1st 2nd generation FFH. Picked it up Christmas Eve, 2012. Special ordered in September, Ford delayed due to faulty body panel stamping dies, requiring Ford to rent some mega jumbo Russian cargo plane to fly replacements to Hermosillo. It was worth the wait. Awesome car. 131,392 miles. Battery is just fine.

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For the 2013 and newer? Please post some links to said threads. But the design life of every part on every Ford is 150K miles, so I still stand behind that the battery will last as long as everything else.

The steering wheel in my 2014 actually has some issues with the leather, it's become quite rough on the left side. The battery on the other hand, is perfectly fine.

Why do you say that? Last as long as the steering wheel, etc?

Depends on how much you use them. Theoretically, they should retain 75% of range before 10 years or 100k miles whatever comes first. Mine is at 50% range at 105k miles (issues started at 94k miles with 30% reduction). The main issue apparently is, don't run the ac for prolonged amount of time with the car not running!

My battery is only 2 years old, and I get errors as well. As far as changing brake pads, I used to own a Chevy Cruze, 3700LBS car, and it lasted 66k miles on the brakes. The Fusion is 4400LBS, but up to 40HP is used on regen (80 for the PHEV/Energi model). Especially if you're braking on regen mostly, you won't need to change brake pads for at least the first 150-175k miles.

Got to a stop sign, brake pedal went to the floor, dashboard lit up, I limped around to neighborhood garage, they changed all four pads and rotors, but problem not fixed. The brakes now work but without power assist, need lots of muscle to stop, like a 1960s car. ABS warning light on. Drove it to dealer, found 'faulty ABS control unit.' Quoted $1,500, part 'on order.' Discovered that 600k non-hybrids 2006-2010 built in Mexico are being recalled for this hydraulic control unit problem, but not hybrids. What???? Reported this to NTHSB.

I appreciate the information. So the noise happens when engine is running in park, neutral or driving. At all times when engine is running. I thought the transmission cooler was internal. I changed the fluid little after two years. Fluid was pink brown, no metal shavings on the drain plug. In my case do we know what part numbers need replacement of all the mentioned above? Thank you.

Time to junk this car. None of the problems are common. It's been wrecked twice.

Snip #1 - Regarding spare tire ... when I ordered my '15 I got the required parts new from Ford and TireRack (tread). It was pricey but we have no decent salvage yards within 30 miles of where I live. If you go salvage/used/second-hand, get any 2013+ gas Fusion spare and all the parts for it (assembly cone, jack, wrench). It'll fit into the well in place of the mobility kit and you can use the holddown bolt and screwcap. But not on a '20 (dunno on '19). Why not? Because they changed the size of the mount for the assembly unit and changed the screws that hold the HVB cover on/together. Result is even if you hone out the area to mount things, the screws will interfere wit the tire seating properly in the well. If you want to remove the screws I suggest keeping them ... but leaving them in will either puncture the tire (if you force things) or prevent proper installation. Snip #2 - I would rather pay for a wrecker to get my car to the shop than put that crap into my tire. One, if it is a simple screw as you experienced, it may be patchable - and if not a pro-rated replacement is fine. The goop is no good on sidewall blowouts ... period. It sets up like concrete in the tire if you use it AND destroys the TPMS sensor for that wheel. So you are out a tire AND sensor - added expense. Common sense and my Goodyear Manager tell me that. <chuckle>

I was a good little doobee when I bought our FFH in late ‘15 and read everything I could find. Then I sat in the car for about an hour and a half going through all the screens. I was amazed at all the menus and sub menus available. Since then I’ve thought of this beauty as a computer on wheels. What a joy!

Thanks. I must have missed it when I was going through things this AM. I’ll check Vehicle menu more closely. Later..... there it was buried down in there. Thanks for your help in relieving my pain.

My 2014 will heat up the cabin just fine if I let it. I do play the games of trying to not let the ICE run just to generate heat, but if I just put the climate in auto and drive normally, it will heat up within about 5 minutes even on cold days. That's what my wife does and she's never complained that it doesn't warm up, even on her short commutes. Grill shutters were designed for aero, they were not designed to heat up the engine. Suggesting they are "overengineered" because they don't serve the purpose that you want while ignoring the purpose that they were designed for doesn't make any sense. Despite whatever you might "see", the fact is the turbo Fusions outsold the hybrid like 10 to 1, so trying to criticize Ford because they didn't make a car that is custom tailored for your particular use case really misses the big picture.

I guess when the forum changed the files were lost for the 2012 Fusion Hybrid coolant replacement. Here they are again. ...I tried it and they work. In the past, I have uploaded a lot of info to this fusion forum. I haven't checked but I guess they are all lost also... Let me know if you need more info... 2012 Fusion Hybrid Coolant Drain, Fill, Bleed.pdf Motor Electronics Drain and Fill.pdf

I added the second battery for the fact the 12v battery is pretty small. I have not replaced my original battery yet and it is a 2014. I suspect soon, but zero problems with my setup. After all this time I still love the sound in my car.

If the rotors are rusting due to lack of use, then periodic firm braking might be a simple solution to this problem. Once or twice a week (or even once per day) drive like an ICE driver and brake hard as you approach the stop light/sign. The increase in fuel costs will be a non-issue compared to the cost of brake repairs.

I would like to add one more method that can be used for obtaining a spare tire for FFHs. The method I used is one of the most convenient methods overall, though one of the most expensive since this method uses all-new, mostly all-Ford parts, which were all purchased directly from my local Ford dealer, including the spare tire itself. The cost of this method should be in the $500-$600+ range, depending on the size and brand of tire chosen and on the local sales tax rate. Similar methods were posted previously by Mufasha, and SamJ20112, but there were not nearly enough details about the parts and part numbers as I would have liked to have seen. So, I wanted to share my experience so it might help any others that would like to pursue this same dealership method. And in response to the one question/concern I know many of you will want to mention, and that is why did I not choose to buy the parts through online vendors that would have been much cheaper. And that is because I wanted the dealer to be involved as much as possible since my FFH is brand new, and I wanted the most convenient avenue to return parts if I ended up ordering the wrong parts or if the parts didn't fit correctly. My end goal was to duplicate the gas Fusion spare tire setup as closely as possible, while trying to use the largest spare tire size that would be feasible. So, the first thing I did was go to my dealer and look in the trunk of a gas Fusion to see what parts I would need to modify my FFH accordingly. And then I went to http://www.fordparts.com to look up the part numbers of the spare tire parts for the gas Fusion that I would need to duplicate exactly how the spare tire is installed in the gas Fusions. At fordparts.com, I selected Search by "Model", and then selected "2014", "Ford", and "Fusion". I then did a "Keyword" search for "wheel" to find all of the possible parts I might need. The key to quickly finding the parts and prices after that is to click on the part drawing (sometimes the images take a while to load) immediately to the left of the part description that says "Wheel; With 18" Wheels ; With 16" Mini Steel Spare Wheel; Wheel Assy - Spare" (hint: select "75" in the "Show per page:" box and then use the page search feature in your browser to search for "steel spare") and also click on the drawing beside "Jack Handle and Wheel Nut Wrench; Less Tire Repair Service Kit". So here is the list of the parts I ordered from my dealer. Part fordparts.com part# Invoice part# ------ ------------------- ------------- wheel 1007B/1007F CV6Z-1015-B box assy 17009 DS7Z-9913546-A jack 17080 DS7Z-17080-A lugwrench 17035/17032 CP9Z-17032-A tire --- 125/90R16 For the tire itself, I wanted to try to get as close of a fit as possible to my 18" tires, but which would still fit within the wheel well in the trunk of my FFH. I didn't specify any size to the dealer, just to see what size they would come up with. Later on, the parts guy called back to see what size tires were on my car, and I told him they were 235/45-18 tires. It turns out that the parts counter guy knew basically nothing about spare tire sizes, and the tire shop that he contacted knew nothing about the size of the wheel well in the FFH trunk, so they came back with the most obvious spare tire size, 145/90-R16, since that would be almost the exact same diameter as my tires. But not only would that size most likely not fit in the wheel well based on the photos and feedback from Grysql, but there was a back-order wait of 90 days for that size, and the price would be an astronomical $260. So I asked the parts guy at the dealer to see if there were any other sizes available that would be available sooner, and at a more reasonable price. Later on, I decided that since the spare tires that come with the gas Fusions are 125/80-16, that I should probably limit the width of the tires to the same 125 to ensure it would fit properly since I would be using the same styrofoam tire and jack mount piece that comes in the gas Fusions. So I called the parts guy at the dealer back and asked him to check on the 125/90 and the 125/80 sizes to help limit their search criteria. So the tire shop was able to find a 125/90-R16 spare tire that was available fairly quickly (5-10 days) and at a semi-reasonable price ($140 + $18 shipping). The temporary spare tire that the dealer acquired from the tire shop was the Continental CST17. Comparison of Spare Tire …And to Gas_Fusion-only Size to Hybrid Tires Sizes (for completeness) 16" ------------------------ ---------------------------------- Spare 17" Tire 18" Tire 19" Tire 17" Tire 16" Tire Sizes 225/50VR17 235/45VR18 235/40VR19 235/50HR17 215/60HR16 ------- ---------- ---------- ---------- ---------- ------------ 145/90 +0.42 -0.05 -0.12 +0.03 +0.12 155/80 -0.10 -0.57 -0.64 -0.49 -0.40 135/90 -0.29 -0.76 -0.83 -0.68 -0.59 145/80 -0.73 -1.20 -1.27 -1.12 -1.03 125/90 -1.00 -1.47 -1.54 -1.39 -1.30 135/80 -1.36 -1.83 -1.90 -1.75 -1.66 125/85 -1.49 -1.96 -2.03 -1.88 -1.79 125/80 -1.99 -2.46 -2.53 -2.38 -2.29 135/70 -2.42 -2.89 -2.96 -2.81 -2.72 Disclaimer: Some of the spare sizes listed above may not be available or even produced at all. Since I wanted to know how much weight I was adding, I next weighed the whole setup, including wheel, tire, jack, lug wrench, and box, and it came out to a little less than 15 kg...uh...I mean a little less than 33 pounds. But the decrease in gas mileage is worth the peace of mind I now have, knowing I can recover from a gnarly flat as quickly and stress-free as possible. Now for the installation of all of the parts, I removed the old styrofoam box out of the wheel well, by first removing the hold-down bolt, and then by pressing the lip of the trunk rear plastic panel, near the bumper, inwards toward myself, and then lifting the edge of the box closest to me up, and then I lifted the HVB cover ever so slightly to allow me to lift the farthest edge of the old styrofoam box out, and then completely out of the trunk. Here are some photos of the before box, with some showing the old existing hold-down bolt, in the center: Luckily, the hold-down bolt in the Fusion Hybrid is identical to the one used to hold the spare tires down in the gas Fusions, and so the existing bolt can be reused to hold down the new spare tire and the new underlying styrofoam box. Here are some photos of the hold-down bracket, that the new box assembly will sit on, and to which the hold-down bolt attaches. And here are some photos showing how the jack and the lug wrench fit into the box. So after I placed the wrench and the jack in the styrofoam box and placed it all onto the mounting bracket that is welded in the bottom center of the wheel well, I found there was only 3" or so of gap between the HVB cover and the styrofoam box, as can be seen in the photo below. Even after lifting the HVB cover up a few inches, the HVB itself was still in the way of being able to slide the tire between the styrofoam box and the HVB. So my solution was to place the tire/wheel into the empty well first, then lift the side of the tire closest to the bumper, and then slide the styrofoam box underneath it onto the mounting bracket in the bottom. Then I was able to lay the tire back down over the box and snug it all down with the hold-down bolt. I'm very glad I didn't go with any bigger of a spare tire, as this size (125/90-R16) was hard enough to get installed using the styrofoam box that comes with the gas Fusions. Here is a photo showing it installed, and another one showing how much clearance there is between the tire and the wheel well sides. So now I am very happy since I have a decent size spare tire (125/90-R16) that fits nicely with all of the stock gas Fusion spare tire parts, tucked nice and neat in the wheel well. After the installation was completed, the spare tire carpeted cover seems to be raised about 1/8"-1/4" from what it was before, but it is not noticeable at all. :) As others have done, I opted to keep the TMK, but since there was no room for it in the wheel well using this "stock" method, I just placed it, along with the box of trio of triangle reflectors, in the open trunk space, for use as a compressor if ever need it for a slow leak, or heaven forbid, a pair of simultaneous flats. Thanks to GrySql and all others for reminding me why a spare tire is a necessity for my peace of mind, and for providing the starting info I needed to do this spare upgrade installation successfully!

To back up GrySql's post, this seems like a good place to post a photo I took comparing the diameter of my stock tire and 2 spares. I bought Altima and Fusion spares, and put the Altima tire on the Fusion rim. From right to left (before dismounting the tires from the rims): FFH Ti Stock, Goodyear Eagle LS2: 235/45-R18 Altima Spare, Continental: T135/90-R16 (1 inch smaller in diameter than stock) Fusion Spare, Maxxis: T125/80-R16 (2.75 inch smaller in diameter than stock) Edited to add the tire manufacturers.