tonifan

HINT: Never, EVER top off your tank. It will backflow into the Catalytic Converter which will cause damage to it, which can cost upwards of $1,200 to repair/replace! Thieves are now focusing on stealing either the Catalytic Converter OR the steering wheel airbag. The airbag costs $1,000+ and thieves sell them for upwards of $400 each. Again, don't ever top off your tank. I had a 2009 MKS that, when topped off, would only register as having 3/4 tank full. As I drove, the fuel level gauge went S L O W L Y from 3/4 full BACK UP TO FULL! So, you can seriously damage more than one electronic system on your car.

Most dealers here in the SF Bay Area say it'll be around another month before the MKZ Hybrid appears on local lots, but that it could be a little sooner. Good luck!

After a year of ownership (bought in July of 2009), my FFH now gets around 683 - 718 miles per tank. However, I'm a very avid eco-driver, and rarely go over 70mph on the freeway. Sometimes in town (San Francisco, CA) I get 60+ MPG. My overall long-term average is 40.3 MPG. HINT: When you're stopped at an intersection, be sure to accelerate S L O W L Y when the light changes to green until you reach 25 (or so) MPH, then try COASTING to the next stoplight while in city/town driving. You'd be surprised just how much gas you can save!

My first experience with the Check Engine Light was with The Ford Store of San Leandro (California). They re-set the light (or system, or whatever), and for about a month and a half, all was OK. Then, the light came back on; they re-set it, and I've had it now for a year and the light has not come back on. So, yours may have to be re-set a couple of times before everything levels off. Good luck.

I've found that, instead of having the AC on "Auto", I keep set the fan at just two notches up from "off" and the "Auto" goes off. I keep the AC at an even 68 all year, and I'm still getting long-range 40.2 MPG. If I turn on the "Auto" feature in the AC, the mileage goes down to about 37 MPG, overall. That may have something to do with it. I know that if I have the AC on the "Auto" setting, the fan automatically goes way up to about 5 notches, and doesn't ever seem to go down again much. I live in San Francisco, and keep the AC at that setting year round. Our year round median temperature is 57 degrees in S.F., but the temperature can go up to 88-98 degrees in other parts of the San Francisco Bay Area. In the cooler months here, it can go down to 43-47 degrees, and the heater comes on to bring the temperature to up 68-69. I have the AC with the two individual controls, one for the driver and one for the passenger. Hope this info helps.

Driving each day, rain or shine, from San Francisco to my job in San Carlos, California, Highway 101 can be quite a challenge. One of the challenges is that, when it rains, all kinds of oil and guck can come to the surface of the roadway. This gets splashed and sprayed onto the windshield, and then onto the wiper blades. At first, I thought that by rigorously cleaning my windshield, I'd be able to keep the wipers from skipping across the glass. Didn't seem to work, so, I actually almost gave up. Then, I tried cleaning the wiper BLADES with a tar and road film cleaner instead of just cleaning the windshield with it. That did the trick. For the last two rainstorms, no skipping AT ALL at any wiper speed, either in slow drizzle rain conditions or a blinding rainstorm (with hail, actually). Also, there seems to be no damage to the wiper blades at all. Hope this works for you as well as it did for me.

Regarding "bumping up" your tire pressure to 38 psi. The manufacturer's recommended tire pressure all around is 33 psi on the Ford Fusion Hybrid, I believe. If you bump up your tire pressure over that and you're on a wet surface (been a little rainy here in the California lately), less than the correct amount of tire surface is reaching the roadway surface, so you'll really be endangering yourself. When on a wet surface, of course we all want the maximum amount of tire surface reaching the highway. With bumped up tire pressure, less than the correct amount of traction is achieved, thus potentially hydro-planing yourself into a dangerous situation if you have to slow down suddenly and need good traction on a wet surface. Correct tire pressure with good gas mileage is better than incorrect tire pressure and above-average-for-a-hybrid gas mileage. Please don't put yourself in danger of slipping and sliding off the roadway in wet, rainy conditions just for better gas mileage. Don't mean to sound like a nag, but it's the truth. Just ask Pat Goss... that's actually his advice I saw on Motorweek a few weeks ago, and it made a lot of sense.

I was watching a program which had Pat Goss from "Motorweek" offering various car-care tips and advice. He explained that, when tires are rotated on a Front Wheel drive vehicle, the rotation should follow the "modified X" format; that is, rather than being rotated as with a rear-wheel drive car with all tires being rotated to diagonally opposing wheels, that instead, the left front tire should go directly back to the left rear wheel, the right front tire should go directly back to the right rear wheel, the right rear tire should go to the left front wheel, and the left rear tire should go to the right front wheel. Thus, the "modified X" format. Ask your service department if they are aware of the "modified X" format. I'm curious to see what they say. I'm going in for my 10,000 service this weekend, which includes a tire rotation, and I'm going to ask them if they perform the wheel rotation using this method.

I usually go in expecting to be there a full half-day, but got it done very quickly...

Went in to The Ford Store of San Leandro this last Saturday morning, 02/13/10, at 8:00 am, and was out by 9:15 am. It's a simple transmission and brake software update. P.S.: It's spelled "Brake."

Here's a funny FYI: For about 6 months, I had leased a new Lincoln MKS. Not an MKZ, but an MKS. I wasn't so bothered at first by the ride quality, as I was so dazzled by all the technology that I'd not even known about with my previous ride, a Lincoln Zephyr (before it was re-named MKZ). After about 4 months, (and no less than 12 trips to the service department at The Ford Store of San Leandro, CA) I was getting a little nervous about the fact that I had no less than 2.5 years left on my lease, and the car was, to put it simply, too much technology and not enough Lincoln. The car rode like my grandad's F100 Ford truck, to put it mildly, and was about as noisy over rough pavement (especially old concrete) as a Model T. Remember, the only shock absorbers in the Model T were the passengers. Luckily, the dealer took my complaints seriously enough to offer me a way out of my lease... I bought a 2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid. Well, it rides like my dad's 61 Lincoln Continental, and is as quiet as it can be as well. No problems to report (AT ALL) and I'm one happy, satisfied customer. Oh, and did I mention, I'm getting 41.5 mpg, city and highway COMBINED. 693 miles on a tank of gas is also a real plus. And I used to own a Lincoln LS (still a favorite, despite the lousy gas mileage, but oh, could she handle!). So, when others say the Ford Fusion Hybrid's ride is "rough," I wonder what they would think if they rode in a new MKS... A real teeth rattler! :shift: I'm now a real fan... :happy feet:

Reply to Randy: Some people, believe it or not, think that the head restraints are head rests, and that the driver is supposed to have their head touching or resting against the head restraint while driving. Not so. They are set up to help prevent the whiplash that happens to the driver of a car struck from behind in a rear-end collision. They should be adjusted to a height that will prevent your head from snapping back (and possibly breaking your neck) in a rear-end collision. When you're struck from behind, your head first snaps to the front, and then back. In older cars without the head restraints, your head would snap all the way back to almost a 90 degree angle, snapping your vertebrae into little bitty pieces, or at least cracking them. So, again, they're not there for a comfortable spot to rest your weary head -- they're there for your neck's protection in a rear-end collision. I was struck from behind (in a Lincoln LS -- HARD), and the head restraints saved me from serious neck injury by preventing my head and neck from snapping backwards. So, adjust them to a height with those facts in mind.

Reply to rfruth: And... you don't have to drive a car shaped like a doorstop to drive a hybrid, either... :hysterical2:

Reply to akirby: In regards to the Lincoln MKS... I drove one on a lease for about 6 months. I have since traded it in for my FFH. I know, I know, I'm some kind of traitor (trader?) at the MKS Forum, but if you drove and MKS, you'd see immediately why I did what I did. The MKS drove like my grandfather's 1955 Ford truck; come to think of it, the truck had a better ride than the MKS. It is my opinion that the MKS is the harshest, noisiest "luxury" car that Lincoln has ever made. I've owned a 1959 Lincoln Continental, a 2001 Lincoln LS, and a 2006 Lincoln Zephyr. Believe me, any one of them beat the MKS hands down in ride comfort and ride quality. You'd think the MKS would have better comfort and ride qualities than the FFH, but, no, my friends, it does NOT. I was very enthused, at first, with the MKS, but after having it in the shop no less than SEVEN times before the first scheduled maintenance service... well, that did it for me, I'm afraid. At one point, the rental that Ford provided me with (during one of the many service visits) had a better ride than the MKS (it was a Buick, for God's sake!). The rental was a good $30K less than the Lincoln, but was quieter and smoother. Now, don't get me wrong, I love the old Town Cars, but I didn't want one of them because of the older technology involved. But, folks, the MKS has left me somewhat bitter about paying $50K+ for a car that really didn't deliver the kind of quality and ride that I expected a Lincoln product to have. So, 'nuff said... And, I love my FFH... it delivers the kind of quality and ride comfort that I had expected the MKS to have. And for about $20K LESS!

Reply to ralteredstates: I think that the code is a general, overall one that applies to anything in relation to EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) in the car. In other words, it could be the fuel filler cap (NOT one in the FFH), the fuel line near the fuel filler cap (or cap-less fuel filler opening), the dreaded catalytic converter or any sensors that may be in the area. Sooo, according to the San Leandro, California service department, Ford will just keep analyzing the problem (guessing what's wrong) until they come up with a fix. In the mean time, the third re-set of the Check Engine Warning Light they did seems to have done the trick (knock wood). The light hasn't come back on yet, but believe me, every time I start the car I hold my breath, hoping the Check Engine Warning Light doesn't come on again... It's tough having OCD when a non-definable, unpredictable issue like this one comes up. (Is something really wrong? Does it really matter? etc., etc., etc.) :doh:

Reply to rtw819: What is a ScanGaugeII? I've seen the Ford service dept. re-set the "Service Engine" light on my FFH, but they hook up a computer to the car (somewhere). I have a MacBook notebook computer; will it be necessary to hook it up to the car? I doubt the dealer used a MacBook; wondering about compatibility if a computer hook-up is necessary. Thanks for info on sites to go to for the particular error code that my car is giving. Any helpful advice on the ScanGaugeII and its use will be greatly appreciated.

Reply to smr2112: I have the dark charcoal interior on my 2010 FFH; I bought the ebony all weather mats. Those are the ones you want, not the "dark pebble" (whatever that is). The ebony mats match the carpeting perfectly. P.S.: The all weather mats took, believe it or not, about a month and a half to arrive. I ordered them on July 7, and just got them last Saturday, August 15. They are, however, worth the wait; they're very heavy rubber, and will protect the car from most wet day (including snow) wear. Just be sure NOT to put them on top of the existing carpeted floor mat inserts that come with the car. Stow those in the trunk. You may never use them, as the all weather mats are much more durable and are more attractive because they're washable. The little carpet mats that come with the car are not that stain resistant, and when washed, become kind of crappy looking. Remember the days when carpeting in cars was actually real woven carpet (loop pile, etc.)? These days, I think they're just sprayed onto some kind of rubber and adhesive surface and then glued to a rubber mat. Good luck!

Reply to smr2112: I was doing a comparison the other week between a 1956 Ford Fairlane and this FFH. The '56 weighed in at 3,600 pounds, and I believe (if I'm not mistaken) that the FFH weighs in at approximately 3,750 pounds, depending on equipment. Also, the FFH is only about 4 inches shorter than the old Taurus, and the '56 Ford is about 4 inches longer... You can check the accuracy (on inaccuracy) of my data, but it's still interesting to compare. The car rides better than the 2009 Lincoln MKS (a VERY disappointing car) that I traded in (from a lease). I am buying this FFH; it's so much better... and only weighs a few hundred pounds less than the MKS.

Reply to Neal702: Don't forget that, since this is a hybrid, that the oil, no matter what type, is not used as much as a conventional engine. Since the electric engine is entirely capable of moving the car by itself, the Internal Combustion Engine (ICE) is used much, much less than a conventional ICE. That's why Ford's recommended oil change (for the Fusion Hybrid) intervals are at 10,000 miles instead of every 5,000, which is customary with most Ford products. And, more often than not, the electric motor (or engine) is providing locomotion to the car in total conjunction with the ICE, so even if the ICE is moving the car, the electric motor is more than just a helping hand. Hope this helps your decision about the oil changes. The old 3,000 mile oil change may have been advisable with my old Lincoln Town Car, or my Lincoln LS, but oil changes every 3,000 miles may be total overkill for the Ford Fusion Hybrid.

Further Reply to rpreuss: Here's the actual, official "Word" from Ford, (and I quote): "20797 2010 FUSION/MILAN HYBRID - DTC P0400 EGR FLOW SOME 2010 FUSION/MILAN HYBRID VEHICLES MAY EXHIBIT THE CHECK ENGINE LAMP ILLUMINATING ACCOMPANIED BY DTC P0400 FOR EGR FLOW. IF NORMAL DIAGNOSTICS DO NOT LEAD TO A ROOT CAUSE, CLEAR THE CODE AND RELEASE THE VEHICLE. ENGINEERING IS CURRENTLY INVESTIGATING THIS CONDITION. MONITOR OASIS FOR UPDATES. EFFECTIVE DATE: 05/15/2009" My friend (who was a mechanic for Lincoln Mercury for 30+ years), says that the word "OASIS" mentioned in the next-to-the-last line of the quote above, is a source for answers to questions, conditions, or issues related to a specific code, which, in this case, is "DTC P0400 EGR FLOW" which I believe relates to the fuel filler/catalytic converter area of the car. What all this means is, of course, that they're in the dark about the situation until a specific answer comes up. Meanwhile, I just drive the car around until something REALLY goes wrong, (smoke coming from the engine, high-pitched whining noises, etc.) which would make the "Check Engine" light blink on and off continuously. Sooo, I guess it's better not to put black electrical tape over the Check Engine light to keep my OCD at rest. :banghead: And have a nice day... :censored:

Further Reply to rpreuss: Here's the actual, official "Word" from Ford, (and I quote): "20797 2010 FUSION/MILAN HYBRID - DTC P0400 EGR FLOW SOME 2010 FUSION/MILAN HYBRID VEHICLES MAY EXHIBIT THE CHECK ENGINE LAMP ILLUMINATING ACCOMPANIED BY DTC P0400 FOR EGR FLOW. IF NORMAL DIAGNOSTICS DO NOT LEAD TO A ROOT CAUSE, CLEAR THE CODE AND RELEASE THE VEHICLE. ENGINEERING IS CURRENTLY INVESTIGATING THIS CONDITION. MONITOR OASIS FOR UPDATES. EFFECTIVE DATE: 05/15/2009" My friend (who was a mechanic for Lincoln Mercury for 30+ years), says that the word "OASIS" mentioned in the next-to-the-last line of the quote above, is a source for answers to questions, conditions, or issues related to a specific code, which, in this case, is "DTC P0400 EGR FLOW" which I believe relates to the fuel filler area of the car. What all this means is, of course, that they're in the dark about the situation until a specific answer comes up. Meanwhile, I just drive the car around until something REALLY goes wrong, (smoke coming from the engine, high-pitched whining noises, etc.) which would make the "Check Engine" light blink on and off continuously. Sooo, I guess it's better not to put black electrical tape over the Check Engine light to keep my OCD at rest. :banghead: And have a nice day... :censored:

Reply to sobayimage: Yes, that's true, but you'd probably have to wait a few hours before driving it. I understand that the $90,000 Tesla (recently driven and tested on the English TV program, "Top Gear" -- which is the number 1 show in the UK) takes 8-16 HOURS to recharge, depending on the outlet's capabilities. Also, if you are driving GM's new Volt, it's 3.5 hours on a 220 volt outlet, and 7 hours on a 110 volt outlet. And... get this -- on Nissan's Leaf, it's going to take 8 hours on a 110 volt line, and 4 hours on a 220 volt line. Can't get to the office in the morning if you're late and you forgot to plug that baby in the night before. :hysterical2:

Reply to rpreuss: Thanks for the tip. I believe you may be correct. It's just a little tough when one suggests to their service technician that someone on an online blog (even if it's FFH enthusiasts like us) could POSSIBLY know ANYTHING about the error codes, etc., when after all, THEY are the mechanic. But, I'll keep my fingers crossed and hope that someone eventually figures it out.

Reply to akirby: The FFH does not have a fuel cap; only the cap-less fuel filler, so it may not be a loose filler cap.

Reply to rfruth: The only code that was pulled was P0400, and that indicates something with the EGR. Sooo, I'll wait and see what happens on Saturday when I take it back again. I did run the VHR again today, and it indicated that service was required on: Engine, Transmission & Emissions AND Brakes and Suspension. The mystery continues.