rickkel

I just bought a new 2018 Platinum FFH and am loving it. All except for the navigation system. The maps that came on it (manufactured in August 2017) are dated January 2015! I couldn't believe it. We went on its first long road trip to Las Vegas last week and the maps were so old that it thought I was driving on surface streets in areas that had re-done freeways. There is a freeway transition that was moved from the left of the road to the right over two years ago that the map still had on the left. The system was almost useless. Out of curiosity, I logged onto the Here website where you can go to get updated maps and they don't even have map updates for 2017 or 2018 vehicles. Again, I couldn't believe it. The new SYNC 3 system has Android Auto so I hooked it up and was able to use Google Maps which is obviously superior. However using this burns up a lot of cellular data and the USB port doesn't put out enough juice to keep up with the battery drain that Google Maps uses so the phone eventually dies. This is really unacceptable. I paid a lot of money for a navigation system that isn't even as good as a cheap Garmin. Has anyone else had problems with this?

You should be able to download this no matter where you live. I had the same problem. My guess is your computer has Internet Explorer 8 which doesn't like the syncmyride website which needs to be updated. If indeed you have IE8, next to the "refresh" button in the toolbars is a "Compatability" button. It looks like a blue piece of paper with a horizontal zig-zag on it. Click it and this will allow you to perform your downloads successfully.

No one seemed to answer your question. I'm assuming that you updated your browser to Internet Explorer 8 because I had this problem too. The workaround is easy: In the toolbar at the top of IE8 next to the "Refresh" button on the address bar there is an icon that looks like a broken piece of blue paper with a horizontal zig-zag in it. When you click it it makes IE8 emulate older IE versions and your downloads will work just fine. It's called "Compatability View". Give this a try. Interestingly, SYNC is a Microsoft product - one would think that their website would be compatable with their new browser.

I live in San Diego that normally has very mild weather which means minimal to no use of the A/C. I usually just crack the sunroof to the tilt position which increases the airflow through the dash vents. However the last couple of weeks we had a heat wave that required the use of the A/C almost everywhere I drove. Initially I was using the AUTO setting that regulates the temperature and fan speed automatically. Indeed using that setting devestated the gas mileage because it seemed that the fan speed was always too high. Quickly I determined that this is definitely not the most efficient use of the A/C system. I use the the car's computer to monitor my mileage - which I realize is not exact, but relative to my rather consistant commute I feel any big changes the computer shows is a good indicator of improvements or declines in mileage. Since purchasing the car in early June, I'm averaging about 41 mpg overall. Back to the A/C topic: Instead of using the AUTO position, I used a "hybrid" of the AUTO A/C (excuse the pun). Normally I park my car in the garage at home and a covered parking garage at work, so my car is never sitting in the hot sun baking. When I know I'm going to use the A/C, I first push "AUTO" on the A/C then I immediately turn the fan to the lowest speed. I then set the temperature to 72 degrees (it's normally set to 65 degrees without A/C). Since the compressor kicks on and off based on the cabin temperature, the higher this is set, the more efficient. The cabin isn't as cool as I would normally set it, but in my 10 or so commutes using this method, my fuel mileage (again based on the car's computer) was affected minimally or not at all. I'm still getting my 41 mpg average and the drive is much more cofortable than with the A/C off. The power use guage on the dash shows only a small incremental increase once the cabin reaches this temperature (which is very quick since I park in the shade). Note that this probably won't work in areas of the country with high heat and/or humidity or for those who have to park their Fusions in the baking sun, but my point is the A/C can be used more efficiently by overriding AUTO and setting the fan speed down and the temperature up. Beyond any of this, my 2004 Acura TSX never got better than 29-30 mpg whether or not I used the A/C no matter how careful I drove it. I'm betting that many of you on this forum traded cars that got even worse mileage that that. Even if we get 35 mpg using the A/C that is still a good thing. So don't sweat it - use the A/C that you paid for!

Rain-X doesn't last very long on windshields (at most about three months even if it doesn't rain) so don't worry about trying to get it off as it will wear itself off fast enough. Interestingly, I was having trouble with the wipers "bouncing" when using them with the windshield washers so I put on Rain-X to stop it from doing that and it worked. Go figure. I have used Rain-X for about ten years now and have never had that problem. The other glass products mentioned in this post sound intriguing though so I plan to try them.

I too was shocked to see that the all around mileage that CR got was only 34 mpg. If I drive like a complete moron attempting to avoid getting into EV mode I might be able to get that low.

My old Acura TSX had HomeLink and I loved it. We have a really old garage door opener and gate opener to get up our driveway (no, I don't live in a mansion, I'm just lazy). And my best friend lives in an apartment building with an electric gate. I programmed all of those into my HomeLink. Now I have two remotes in the bin at the top of my dash and despite the rubber lining, they always move around in the worst position for easy pressing. I refuse to clip them to my visors. If there was one, that would probably be okay. I can't get a universal remote (I tried a bunch of them). I'm going to be scouring eBay (after you guys get yours first since you posted it).

Were you able to transfer your lifetime membership to your new FFH? When I read about the lifetime membership on their website it said that it was not available for Sirius radios that come standard in new cars. Perhaps older lifetime memberships had that availability and they dscontinued it? Here is the terms from their website: Lifetime Subscription Plan: A "Lifetime Subscription" is one that continues for the life of the receiver equipment. A Lifetime Subscription is not transferable if it is associated with a receiver installed by an automaker or an automotive dealer in a vehicle, except in the event the original receiver associated with that Lifetime Subscription is stolen, accidentally damaged or if, in the sole discretion of SIRIUS XM Radio Inc., it is defective./ Personally this is completely useless unless i planned to keep my FFH for the reest of my life. It is no wonder Sirius/XM is doing so poorly financially. This is just idiotic.

Let me preface my remarks with the fact that I am not a professional car detailer, but it is a hobby of mine and I have acquired all the equipment that a professional has and have picked up a lot of good tips to make detailing easier over the years. I don't know what "rail dust" is, but anything that gets on your car should easily be removed using a clay bar which, in my opinion, is the best thing that has happened to car detailing ever. Why you would have to be using the clay bar again to "get the rest of it off" is a mystery since it should remove it all in the first try unless you didn't do it correctly or long enough. A couple of years ago my car was inundated with paint spray from a neighbor doing a school project - it felt like the finish turned to sandpaper it was so bad. I got out the clay bar and spray detailer and with some patience, removed the spray paint and the finish was smooth as silk with absolutely no damage whatsover to the original finish. It is extremely important that you use a lot of the spray detailer and knead the clay bar smooth before you use it. Don't press down hard, just spray the area with the detail spray and rub the clay lightly until what you want to remove comes off. Normally this would be about two or three passes over the paint unless you are trying to remove something like spray paint or water spots which could take about ten. It is really easy nevertheless. Remember that using a clay bar is completely removing any wax that was in this area along with any of the bad stuff that got on your car, so you must wax it when you are done. I also noted that in some of the posts above people were referring to "polishing" and "waxing" without defining the difference. They were using the references correctly, but some people might think these are the same thing and they are not. "Polishing" uses an abrasive product which actually removes a microscopic top layer of paint while a true "wax" will not. You should only use polish if the condition of your paint dictates it (bad scratches or really bad paint abrasion). A brand new car should not be polished and will proably never need it if you follow the following protocol: I try and fully detail my car every six months. First I wash it with car wash soap (not Dawn from your kitchen), then treat the entire car with a clay bar/spray detailer, with special attention to the horizontal surfaces (hood, roof and trunk) which get the worst environmental impact. Then I apply a good wax with a orbital electic applicator and remove it by hand with clean terry or microfibre towels. I follow this up by applying Rain-X to all windows, mirrors, sunroof and plastic lenses, clear or colored. Everyone thinks the wax that they use is "better than anything else" and I don't want to start a war about that because it is personal preference really. I recommend that you use one of the highly rated professional ones like Mequiar's, Mothers, etc. You don't need the $50.00 bottles you are wasting your money. I tried out Consumer Reports' top rated wax "Black Magic Liquid Wax" which you can pick up at Target for next to nothing. This stuff is fantastic in that it applies a finish that is almost oily to the touch it is so smooth. My only beef is it is somewhat difficult to wipe off, but it is worth it to me. And yes, you want to wax all of the chrome - metal or plastic - like others have said. Modern car plastics are meant to be waxed the same as paint, you just don't want to use strong abrasives on them. Clay barring is okay as well. If you don't wait too long between times doing this (or get into an accident) your car will always look brand spanking new. Anyone who sees my cars always ask me if I got a new car even when it many years old. My FFH is the Atlantis Green which, as most of you know, is nearly close to black as you can get. When I waxed the car the weekend I got it the green part of the color really popped using the Black Magic. I've gotten a lot of positive comments about how it looks.

I had a 2004 Acura TSX (which as I'm sure you are aware is in the Honda family) with navigation before I got my FFH. The navigation on that car is more advanced than the one on my FFH, so I can imagine how advanced the newest version on the Insight is. My parents who are totally electronically ignorant were able to use the navi in my TSX with just one lesson when they came to visit me. I am sure they could not use the one in my FFH because I still have "scratch my head" moments and I've owned it for a month. The Honda/Acura navi system also functions completely when driving unlike the FFH's (unless they changed that on models newer than my 2004). The Garmin Nuvi 660 I have for our RV sucks. It is about as user unfriendly as it can be. I defy you to figure out how to change the time zone on the damn thing without going crazy. The FFH is light years ahead of a Garmin.

I agree that folding mirrors are handy, especially if you park your car in a tight garage (like ours) and need to walk between the wall and the front of the car. I don't know, but the new BLIS and Cross Traffic Alert systems built into both side mirrors might have something to do with them not being able to fold. The mirrors have the warning lights in them and allowing them to fold might lead to their early demise.

Can either of you guys snap a pic of your new sills when you get them? I'm interested, but $360 seems a bit steep. I wonder if the wiring is a big hassle or not. Do you know anyone who has done this themselves?

I posted my review what seems like a week ago and it still hasn't shown up. No curse words, only praise of course! I forgot to cut 'n paste it here so when it finally posts, I'll do that.

I'm not sure, but I think he is not talking about running boards like you would see on an SUV, but nicer looking door sill "boards". The ones standard are just stick-on plastic decals - definitely less than classy. And there isn't even the stickers on the back doors - they are naked. I see that the older Fusion models have aftermarket sills that actually light up. If they make them with blue LED's I'd consider getting a set, but only if they are easy to install.

I got mine on June 3 in San Diego for $1,500 under MSRP (which translates to $1,290 over invoice). No add-on dealer prep costs or fees. They threw in the first oil change free and no charge to upgrade Sync for as long as I owned the car. They told me other dealers charge $100 for this service, but I upgraded Sync to 3.0 myself the second day I owned it so I doubt I'll take advantage of that. None of the dealers in San Diego had the car except this dealer and they only had two, one base white model and my Atlantis Green loaded model. I just checked inventory on Ford.com and there are now 26 available at all five San Diego dealers. I'm guessing better deals might be available now, but who knows?