Cobra348

I have a '17 that I got August '16. Only issue I had was a non-functioning number panel and that was fixed. No other issues at all. BUT ... CR is ... IMO ... biased and I do not rely strictly on their viewpoints at all. In fact, I take anything they say with a very large amount of salt. More tan once it was obvious the writer had no clue as to how to properly drive or handle the car being tested. Example: The Powershift tranny in Fiesta and Focus. They consistently treated it and wrote of it as if it was a torque-converter type of transmission and not a computer-guided manual. The tranny had its issues but to pan a car when you don't understand it is ridiculous.

My '15 HyTi had a lifetime average of 41.25 MPG over 38,605 miles when I traded it in on the current car. I don't follow all the hybriding techniques for starting out, etc. Driving was pretty much the same - around town, runs to Rochester, NY (82 miles one way), some runs to PA. Lowest MPG (by receipt) was 26.22 in the middle of Winter (Feb '16); best was 52.02 in May of 2016. Current auto is approaching 30K miles, average 37.6 MPG as of todays fillup. Lowest MPG 27.19 on Jan 10, 2017; best MPG to date is 47.79 on May 22, 2017. Same driving patterns as the '15 except not a run to PA as yet. A trip to FL is planned for late May/early June. And .... I do not rely on the car computer for accuracy. I do MPG calcs off the receipts and have noted variances as much a >3 MPG between calcs and the car. I distrust it mightily. I worked computers for 40+ years ... I learned to distrust the damn things. And before anyone challenges the variance ... today I filled up and Trip 1 read 304.3 miles, 39.7 MPG. Total purchase was $24.30 @ 2.739/gal. You do the math - variance of over 5 MPG. Trip meters are reset every fillup. Overall displayed MPG was closer ... 37.7. === Spares can cost, but I have suffered sidewall blowouts in the past and would like to have something I can use and depend on. There are times here where you are driving through construction zones and you don't know what your tires will pick up. Go to a junkyard and get a gas '13+ Fusion donut for cheap. Ford/Tirerack prices are about $500 or so for new parts. And when you do need to use the goop, you will need to purchase a TPMS sensor and valve stem assembly along with any costs for tire repair or replacement. Why? Because they get made inop by the very junk you used in the tire. These cost in the range of $70-100 depending on where you get them. For a simple nail that can be plugged/patched that's expensive. Then again, if you used the goop, the tire may need replacement as well. <shrug>

It will over the long run, as Waldo points out. The reason no spare exists in the FFH is that rear-end safety concern and the EPA requirements. IMO any MPG loss could be offset by using rims that are lighter than the OEM units. In theory you could offset the weight gain by 20-24 pounds total (5-6 pounds per corner). I am not all that concerned one way or the other. I'm more frosted that changes to how/when ICE kicks in makes it damn hard for me to consistently hit 40+ on a tank like I did with my '15.

Still under warranty? If so, take it in. Explain that if that thing falls off while driving it could cause some hurt (accident?). Rule #1 that most folks forget - if the vehicle is still under warranty, then the manufacturer is obliged to at least scope it out.

MPG in the 40s and 50s is easily done on short runs of 20-50 miles. I did 26 miles today @ 44+ MPG. When you can consistently pull 500 or more per tank and by receipt THEN you're doing good! And no, I can't pull it consistently because of traffic, weather and the damnall potholed roads around here. But it's creeping up again.

As a new FFH owner I highly suggest you spend quality time with the manual and the car - learning things. You didn't say how long you've had it so I am gonna **assume** under 1,000 miles. By doing a quick run-through of the tutorial in the left screen, then just simply looking at all the screens you can decide how you want your driving experience to be setup. You also learn where everything is and how to change it (play with things!). Of course the car will need to be running AND you may have to respond to a "I'm gonna shut off soon" type message at least once. It took me an hour and a half or so with my prior HyTi (a '15 model) because that was my first hybrid (of any kind). Take the time if you need to. === Things I have found out - so far: 1. I am not comfy with the mobility kit as supplied by Ford. I put in a 16" compact spare instead. 2. To me, the steering and suspension needed a bit of tightening up, so I added some Steeda parts that did enough to make me happy. 3. Rain-sensing wipers and automatic headlights on don't work and play well together. 4. For me the automatic highbeams are a pain so I set them off. 5. I'n a coward ... I have yet to use the Park Assist. <shrug> Welcome to the Fusion Hybrid club ... ask away on questions.

Yup - my '15 HyTi was like that. I am **assuming** that for '17 things changed and that the '16 models were like the '15s. <shrug>

Center console has 2 buttons, so choose wisely! ;) The left one opens the entire thing up so you have access to the storage well. The right one opens the lid to the junk tray (as I call it) and I believe that is where you are looking for the coin storage.

I'm not tickled on the lack of appreciable changes either ... and I just extended my warranty to 6/100K. I don't like how much ICE runs on the '17 as compared to my prior '15 but I think I'll keep it around for a while longer.

Some pearl paints also require different mixes of drying agent, etc. My local body shop fell afoul of that when the Pittsburgh Paint rep didn't tell them of it a couple years back. They had to repaint several Ruby Red vehicles because of the orange peel and lifting. However, a good shop should be able to get the color right - especially if you have the paint code ... it's on the tag on the drivers door jamb.

I saw a different article today that stated something to the tune of "if you park an '18 and a '19 side by side it would be difficult to pick out the differences. Ummmmmm, just on the DFP pic alone I can spot 2 differences between my '17 and a '19 front end. Probably more if I squint a bit.

Add Goodyear Ultragrip WRT Ice tires to the directional tread list. I use those during the Winter. Expensive but damn good in the snow and ice.

Where you would think a spare should be is what Ford calls "a mobility kit" - essentially fix-a-flat and a compressor. What I and some others did was to get a compact spare and tools and put them in the well instead. This thread is for NEW parts to do the trick. "Invoice Part #" is the Ford part number ... tread shoulld be gotten via TireRack or something. Cost is around $500 or so. BUT ... if you want, go to a salvage/you-pik lot and get the spare, foam tower, jack and wrench from a 2013+ gas model Fusion and save tons of cash. To mount the donut spare, undo the hold-down bolt for the kit and remove that and the kit. I would recommend putting the kit aside for reverting the car to OEM if you sell/trade it. I put it in a corner of the garage ... with the OEM sway bar and mats. <chuckle> Place the donut mounting plastic, jack and wrench in the well and then the spare should fit over it. You will have to fiddle with the floor panel over the battery but not by much. Advantage: With the donut, you are assured of mobility even with a sidewall blowout. Not so with the kit. Also, using the kit requires you to get a new TPMS and valve assembly because you'll gunk it up with the spray foam. That's $75-100 additional over any tire repairs or replacement. Disadvantage: Adds about 32-35 pounds of weight and will affect MPG. Also, if you are rear-ended there is a possibility that the donut will be stuffed into the HVB and complicate things a lot. Your choice! Oh, one last thing ... just about every hybrid is without a spare and even some non-hybrids ship with tire kits. It's a way to get closer to EPA mileage demands. This setup is for a 16" compact spare. Anything larger will not fit the well. Using the donut: Steering and suspension can be impacted when using the compact/donut spare. If you have 17" rims it's not too bad, however for 18" rims, the donut should be mounted on a REAR wheel position. It messes up the steering badly if on the front.

Detroit Free Press (link here) has a photo from Ford showing front end of '19 Fusion. Use the arrow in lower right to expand the pic. Interesting treatment and the grille looks like it may be a bit shorter top-to-bottom. Whatcha think?

Kinda figured that on time to fix. I read another article that stated they basically have to remove the current bolts and put in longer ones with some Loctite or something. I can hit the dealer up for this when I schedule my 30K oil change.

My thoughts on this are that they are bringing in ANY units that could possibly be affected. I have a suspicion that they have lot numbers for the parts that could be substandard and will pull them and replace with new ones if needed. If not needed, it'll be a quick stop for us.

Seems there is potential for the steering wheel to come loose/off, so Ford has announced a recall. This link has the article and affected models are listed in the last paragraph. Since Hermosillo plant is llisted I think some of us are gonna be getting letters!

Self-lock ability: I had a Fiesta do that at a service station. I'd taken the key out and tossed it on the seat. Luckily I had left the windows cracked a bit and with some judicious juggling with a coathanger, got the keys thru the window and unlocked the car. As Waldo points out, there is a lock/unlock ability on the touch handles of the doors. I'd stay with that. Antenna: Absolutely agree on this and I'm gonna get me a shark-fin as soon as things warm up enough that I don't freeze my fingers off installing it. Trunk space: It would be nice to have more trunk than a Fiesta ... for sure. My concern with under-seat mount is how cool would that battery pack be? As it stands now, under the floor piece there are 2 fans to assist in cooling and main ventilation is via the package shelf as well as around the seat ... would that also be as efficient? Hidden camera: I was talking with a friend (and serious Ford fanatic) about this and he stated Lincoln uses the hidden camera idea already. If that's so, what's the matter with the Ford brand?

Here's another one ... With all the tech in our cars, why can't the clock get set automatically when Daylight Savings goes on or off. The way I see it is this: In the Settings ==> Clock, add one toggle - Auto Daylight Savings? If on, then automatic change of time else no change - or manual change. There are some areas that do not alter their clocks, so that would be a needed option. I have an alarm clock that does it automatically and it's over 6 years old. How come my 1 year old car can't do it?

I get a deep beep (or popping) periodically - from the rear speaker. Usually it's when I am getting into the seat and a couple times when I was loading groceries into the trunk (most recent it was two distinct beeps). It doesn't happen all the time but I plan on mentioning it when I go in for 30K oil change.

You and I are in the same city!!! Nice! To answer your question, yes. Cold temps take the HVB out of its optimum operating range. Also, the ICE is running more to maintain its operating temps. Generally I drive like I stole it and don't get a ton of high-MPG receipts but I'm reasonably happy with the results. Use of any tread than LRR will also contribute to lower MPG - no mater the season. You and I should get together sometime and compare notes on our cars. I've added a few things (see sig) and you might be interested in them when/if you see the setup. Usually I am at Dahls Diner out by Rte 29 somewhere around 8 AM if you wanna get together. FYI for casual readers: Oswego is a small burg and I have seen only one other hybrid Fusion in the last 2+ years .... and that was a '14. Plenty of gas models, but damn few hybrids or Energis.

I'd definitely have the alignment checked ... and a tracking check (some call it a 4-heel alignment). Those tires are just plain worn wrong.

So the guy in front of me who slams on the brakes to turn "right here" without signaling should be foreseen? At 20 MPH from a dead stop and have that happen to you and see how you like it. It can and does happen because of the unconscious other guys in traffic.

I have a '17 so it's fairly close. In Vehicle Settings I believe there is a setting for Auto On/Off for the cruise control. Turn Auto to ON if it isn't. Some of the adaptive abilities - like the distance follow, etc - don't work unless Auto is on. Do this check first. As I understand it, the precollision warning is a group of flashing red lights in a HUD right in front of you. Your brakes should pre-charge at that point. I can tell you from experience that this thing warns me in plenty of time ... even with a vehicle turning off the road in front of me. I run normal sensitivity. I don't know if this is tied to the ACC (Adaptive Cruise Control) or not. I wouldn't think so, but stranger things have been done. When coming up on STOPPED traffic, all bets are off as far as I can determine. The system is way late in detecting you're in potential trouble. It is good for traffic in front slowing and you slowing as well (if ACC is on and set).. The follow distance should be at least 2 seconds (2 bars) ... which requires the cruise to be on/set to work. As far as pedestrian detection, I have had the cross-traffic alert me when a pedestrian is around with the "vehicle approaching from ..." message. But the person was detected, so I'll allow the "vehicle" part! <smile> FOr one in front, I have not had that situation. Hope some of this helps.

This might be a change since the '14 models, but the lockout button my '17 does NOT prevent that control panel from operating the windows.