Cobra348

See if TireRack has anything that appeals to you in the 18" size. I have a set of Verde Regency 17" with the OEM tread that I use in non-Winter driving. The OEM rims and Goodyear snows are Winter set. I used the Verde on my prior '15 and they are pretty sharp units. I believe it was a bit over $500 for them, TPMS installed and drop-shipped to local Goodyear (approved installer). This is the black w/machined lip, but there are chrome versions, silver and one or two more. The 18" version of this is $126/ea plus any TPMS and shipping. Photo taken of my prior Tux Black HyTi. One other thing about Goodyear that I take advantage of ... Road Hazard Warranty. It costs up front, but it will cover ANY tread on the car - even OEM. Also, with two sets of rims and tires, the twice-annual swaps are free. I have had tread replaced due to damage and most I've paid was about $70 for a $125 15" tire on a Fiesta. Something else for you to consider.

I'm thinking Ecoboost. Unless someone debadged the sides, which I doubt.

Typically when home base is brought in, it will begin with phone/email type of coaching from Engineering. It may well be something between stalk and BCM but HQ will make recommendations to the dealer for work. Sort of a script they go through. However, this dealer sounds really on the ball compared to the other blokes. Stay with them! Let us know what happens, please.

Hate to tell you this but the 12V socket has ALWAYS been a switched socket as far back as I can recall. I used to plug my CB into it in the '80s (Plymouth Sport Satellite and Fury) and it ALWAYS shut off when ignition was turned off. It would work in accessory mode, tho. My '69 Torino GT was same way as were all other cars in between these. The 12V is not immediate loss of power ... it does stay on for some time after ignition off. But if I'm charging my phone, I'm also not leaving it in the car when I exit. Therefore whether or not the socket is active is a moot point for me.

With the prior '15 HyTi I had mostly mid to high-40s but had one 52+ MPG tank. All the driving was normal (for me) running around. I think weather, road and traffic conditions have a lot to do with it.

LKS display is a pair of dashed lines to each side of the ACC car shape. When on and you are okay, these are green, and they change to yellow and red (on the side where you are deviating) as you deviate more ... plus the alert. I've only tested it with ACC on and set to 55 MPH. However I believe you have to be over 40 for it to be a viable aid. PLEASE NOTE: This is on a '17 FFH SE and may be different on earlier models.

I shut the damn thing off in the settings. Did you do as I suggested and go thru the OM with the car running and look at each screen? I spent almost 2 hours with my first hybrid doing that and it made all the difference in the world. This is the Driver Alert for a rest stop. I have no idea on setting it, but I don't need the car telling me to pull over for coffee 5 minutes after I just got in it either. It's off.

On the ACC, I have 2 dashes (2 seconds?) distance setting for anything under 55 MPH. At 55 - 65 I'll set it to 3 dashes and use my judgement on traffic as to going to 4. Anything over 65 is 4 dashes. I find this works fairly well ... and I always have the foot available any way. Using the ECO button versus not using it, there is a noticeable difference in the time it takes to get back to a preset ACC speed. Eco will take longer as it doesn't exactly "lead foot" the acceleration. To me it is more noticed at lower speeds, especially if ACC slowed me down or stopped me.

I run the OEM and Winter tires at 38 PSI cold. When they have been driven a while the TPMS sensor screen ('17 models!!) will have pressures as high as 42 PSI possibly. This is still within spec and there is no real loss of handling/braking. If your tires were checked hot, they may now be a bit underinflated. Always check tires when they are cold. TIP: Go to your favorite auto parts store (AutoZone, Advance, etc) and get a Slime tire inflator. It plugs into the 12V socket, can be set to a predetermined pressure. All you need do is have the car running, plug it in, check the preset pressure limit then fasten the hose to your valve (this screws on like the valve cap) and turn the compressor on. It will auto-off when your preset pressure is reached. Saves dropping coins into the air pumps at the gas station. This puppy also comes with some fittings to inflate footballs, etc. as well. About US$25 or so plus any tax. I have one in the trunk.

Like the others I'm glad to see you still kicking dirt in here. I did upgrade to a '17 last August and at 7900+ miles, no real issues. A couple niggling little ones but they've been handled.

I would go with what the state allows. Here's why ... bullet #2 is so that cops approaching can see your hands and actions. Considering recent events I think it's prudent. Also, even if you went seriously tinted, if your state does what NY has done, you will need to remove it and get legal tinting. Just a week ago, NY vehicle law changed to have vehicles with tinted windows inspected for how much the tint is - during the required vehicle inspection. If it is over the allowed threshold the vehicle fails inspection and must be corrected. Up until this, there were guidelines but no enforcement.

I have WeatherTech front mats and in-track wind deflectors. Don't haul backseat riders except rarely. Trunk liner never occurred to me. Hmmmm.

I got the laser-cut floor mats. There are short sides to them ... and replace the stock ones. Drivers side snaps right into place. Holds water (and snow and ice) nicely and can be easily removed to simply dump the crud out. My OEM mats are in the garage all wrapped up. Right next to the mobility kit and the OEM rear sway bar.

I'd go with the WeatherTech item. While I didn't get it for the trunk, I do have their in-track wind deflectors and the floor mats. Good products.

Welcome! You can see by my sig that I too have an SE with ACC. I did factory order mine as well. Heated wheel is part of the Driver Assist package, tho I can't figure out why since all the rest ARE assist items (auto high beams, rain-sensing wipers, BLIS, etc). If this is your first hybrid I suggest quality time with the manual and the car (running). Go thru screens, work controls and buttons, decide what you want displayed. Have fun in the new car ... ask questions when you get 'em!

I've not had this on my current or prior FFH, but a couple Fiestas I had before Fusion seemed to do this about 2-3 times a year. Same reset process for them as well.

Using stop/go in stop and go traffic is not always good but it looked like he was doing nicely. Where I live there is ample opportunity to use it to some effect but it's negated by drivers cutting in and other factors. Only one place within the city limits can I use it to any decent return and that's actually a nice downhill where I set the speed to limit 30 MPH and allow the ACC to regen the battery as it keeps me from going too fast. Stop light at the bottom, I always use my foot on the brake. Once out of the main city areas I can use ACC at 40 and above very nicely.

Each of those bars is approximately 1 second following distance. I usually run 2 bars but crank it up to 3 or 4 on highways at 55 or better. The stop/go feature is new for '17 so vids may not have it all. 100% correct. Applying the brake with your foot deactivates cruise (as normal). If you look at the setting then you will see your preset speed with a line thru it - overridden. As used to the stop/go as I am, I still have my foot ready, so consider that. If you do allow the car to completely halt by itself, be advised that it will not start rolling until the vehicle ahead is at least the follow distance away so you may need to nudge the gas a bit. The car will then attempt to reach the preset speed once again. And to answer the unasked question ... yes, the tallights do come on. <chuckle> I have seen them reflected in the grille of the car behind me.

Here's a thread I started with some remarks about the features of the '17 models. This is on SE trim and compares to '15 Titanium in spots ... but it may help. Stop & go works well ... but have the foot hovering just in case. Set distance for at least 2 seconds. If traffic is ALREADY stopped, it will not work and that is the way it's set. Heated wheel setting was (for me) in an unexpected place but it does make sense I suppose. One last thing ... if this is your first hybrid take a bit of time with the manual and the car running to see where everything is, work the buttons/settings and learn stuff. It's worth the time. Have fun with the new ride!

A couple threads to look at where it'll give you some ideas: Parts list for dealer-purchase parts is here. Use the Invoice Part # as the guide when you talk to parts. The tread can be gotten from TireRack - just search for it by your year, etc. You want the 16" setup, have your local mechanic put the tread on the rim for you and inflate it. This was somewhat over $500 for new dealer/TireRack parts in 2015. I used the donut in my '15 and now in the '17. A less expensive method is to locate a donut, assembly box, jack and wrench from a junkyard. You want a 2013 gas Fusion or later as the parts source. A thread I started on comparing my '17 stuff to the prior '15 has some commentary on actually installing the spare in place of the mobility kit. See message #2 for that. There may be other items in there that would interest you.

Found a little glitch .... totally minor in nature IMO. Rain Sensing Wipers vs Auto Headlights: It appears that with the rain-sensing option turned on for the wipers, headlights do not automatically come on (when in Auto setting) when the wipers are turned on into the intermittent position. I have to set the headlight switch to headlights manually ... and get the chime reminder when I exit the car. Turning off the rain-sense option DOES allow headlights to turn on automatically when they are on in the intermittent position. I looked in the OM and found nothing advising of any conflict. Confirmation was to turn on the wipers with rain-sense on, headlights in auto. No headlight indication so switched wipers to low speed and the headlights immediately came on. When I set wipers back to intermittent, the headlights went out after the requisite delay. So, right now I am running with rain-sense turned off until I can talk with the dealer Thursday.

Didn't see anything specific for those wanting to clean the inside of the glass in between washes/detailing. Well, here are a couple methods I've used that work pretty well. The more expensive way - Invisible Glass and fine microfiber cloths for glass. Spray the IG as directed and used the cloth to wipe it off and clean the glass. CON: If like me, there will be streaks that are a pain to remove after things have dried. The less expensive way - Magic Eraser and paper towels. I used the foaming Mr. Clean bathroom ones. Get it moderately wet and wipe the area of the glass, followed by use of paper towels to dry thoroughly. The eraser I used has a smooth side and a knobby side with very low foaming action. I used the knobby side. PRO: If there is a streak or two, the use of a regular microfiber cloth will remove it. And there is the old vinegar and newspaper solution if you want to go that route. I've never used it TBH. BTW - a slightly damp Magic Eraser can be used to remove a grease spot or two that might get on light colored parts of the interior. Gentle rubbing followed by light pat dry with paper towel.

Huh. Not what I was led to believe ... I'm gonna print this puppy out and see what they say. So I am back to one of the questions ... Is this the underlying ACC tech for sure? Ford wouldn't have something else than this? If - as you say - the transmitter and receiver are same unit - AND it is behind the grille blocker, then why is it that there was no blockage at that area and ACC was inop. However once I cleaned those faschia units, ACC was operative?

Well, I asked at the dealer. Sales guy has 20+ years Ford - fleet and consumer - with an electronics degree. Knows how the ACC works. Also talked with a service tech who actually does the work on vehicles needing it. Here's how it works - in general. Remember, this is ACC with Stop/Go Technology - a '17 FFH. So the implementation may be different from prior years. ACC is essentially a radar (or sonar) system that has a gun (transmitter) and receivers (sensors). The gun is behind the grille blocker in the upper grille area. The front faschia has 4 sensors - 2 outboard near the corner and 2 inboard bracketing the license area. The front sensors comprise the collision warning system, proximity warning when parking and receivers for ACC. Probably other stuff as well. The inboard sensors are the ACC receivers in addition to other duties. In my original post, it was these that were crudded up with snow/slush pack - and that prevented the signal from getting received. Thus the error message I got. Simple stop/start of the car would not have fixed the issue but the cleanoff did. What can be used to prevent or alleviate heavy build-up like that? A good coat of wax is all any of us can come up with. So I'll get some Rain-X stuff and have it handy to see if it helps. <shrug>

this was first flurry action of the season ... roads were wet with accumulation on grass, gas pumps, my front faschia and the like. Was all melted off by afternoon. agree on ACC usage in lousy weather like that though.