Hybrider

Here in the AZ desert temps, from March, when I picked up my FFH, until now, my car never, ever starts up with the ICE running, unless my HVB SOC is almost to zero on the gauge. And that has only happened on one or two startups. So I disabled the EV+ option since it doesn't really do me any good. BTW, the EV+ was enabled by default on my car.

Thanks for sharing!

A few weeks ago, I had a glitch in my climate control (CC) that sounds quite similar to what the OP may have experienced. I always have my "My Temp" setting set to 82°, so that when I get done with my trip and am ready to turn off my car, all I have to do is hit the "My Temp" button, so that the A/C doesn't blast me out of the car quite so bad when I go to turn my car back on when the outside temps are between 100° and 115°. Then as the temp inside the car decreases and the A/C air temp starts to increase, I start turning the temp setting down 1° or 2° degrees at a time to get the A/C air temp to blow cool air once again. So that morning when I turned on my car on to go to work, the outside temp was about 90°, and it appeared to me like the MFT screen quickly flashed irregularly, and then I noticed the temp setting on my CC was not at 82° or even something like 74°, which it would have been had I forgotten once again to hit the "My Temp" button before I turned my car off last. But this morning the CC temp setting had glitched to a setting of 66°. So I quickly hit the "My Temp" button to try to get it back to my normal 82° initial setting, but the temp setting had seemed to reset itself back to the default "My Temp" setting of 72°. AND, it was blowing hot air. The outside temp sensor was reading about 90°, so it was not the temp sensor that had gone wacky, even though I have had minor cases of the temp sensor being stuck on something like 86° when I got into the car when I knew good and well the afternoon temp had to be closer to 100°. But then the temp sensor in those few minor instances would recover in a minute or two, and jump about 5°, 10°, or 15° at a time, until it reached the correct outside temp. I was in a big hurry to get to work that morning, so I didn't want to pull completely off of the freeway and waste all the time that would be required just to investigate the glitch in my CC. So I started trying adjusting the CC settings while I was driving down the highway to try to get it to blow cold air instead of hot air. But when I turned the temp settings down to colder settings (lower numbers), the air only blew harder and hotter. I even tried rolling the windows down some to get some air to help cool me off, but since the outside temp was hovering above 90°, that only made me hotter and sweatier. I tried every combo of settings I could think of, and I finally found that the _only_ way I could get cold air to blow out of my CC vents was to set the temp setting to "LO", which I had discovered by hitting the "MAX A/C" button a few times between trying other CC settings. After I had set the temp setting to "LO", I could then turn the fan down to even the lowest setting and I could also use any of the vent outlet settings and it would still blow cold air. But even on the lowest fan setting, it would get quite cool in my car with the temp having to be set all the way down at "LO". So I ended up cycling the CC completely on and off myself for the rest of my commute so I could regulate the temp inside to be mostly comfortable. So then after I got to work, I tried turning the car off and back on, since I figured there was a good chance it was just another one of the many glitches that we FFH owners experience from time to time since there are so many computer modules installed in our cars. But my CC was still blowing hot air after turning the car off, no matter what I set the temp to except when it was on the "LO" setting. So after I dropped off my stuff at my desk, I went back out to my car to take it to the dealer for them to look at it. But before I started up my car, I had one more idea to try to try to fix my CC, since I was sure it was a glitch condition. So I started up the car, turned the CC completely off, and I then turned my car completely off, and even locked the door from my fob while still sitting in the car. I waited for at least 30-60 seconds, working up another sweat while sitting there in a the 90°+ car. And then when I started up the car, and turned the CC back on, it was once again blowing cold air on any of the A/C temp settings. So a trip to the dealer that day was no longer needed. :drop: :dance:

I am personally very proud to be driving a hybrid car, and I want to advertise it to others in the hopes that they too will want to get a hybrid, especially now that hybrids can be so sharp-looking, which the FFHs are. In fact, I even embellished my "HYBRID" emblems on the doors by adding the same "SE" emblem that is on the trunk lid below each "HYBRID" emblem on the doors, because I am also proud that I have the SE version, which even though I know originally probably stood for something else, but I like to think it stands for "Sport Edition". Having the extra chrome from the "SE" emblem by the "HYBRID" emblem also makes it stand out even more. :)

My anecdotal observations are that it is traffic which has the single biggest effect on the fluctuations in my MPGs on my regular highway commute, but then again I don't have an anemometer mounted on my FFH either. :play:

From looking at color swatches, the Bronze Fire looks to me like a cross between the Bordeaux and the Sunset.

You could create a script, that appends a time/date stamp to a log file, and which also then runs the ".../named restart" command. Then put the call to your script in the crontab instead.

Here are pics of my personal best MPGs for these approximate distances. Keep in mind that, even though these trips were not really what you would call downhill trips, they were, at least for the first few miles of each trip, having decreasing elevation since I live on the edge of a very shallow, many-mile-across valley. Each of these trips also had favorable traffic and traffic light conditions, and were on city streets with mostly 45 MPH speed limits. The last trip, which was the longest at 26.9 miles, and which achieved 62.3 MPG, was even during the mid-day summer desert temps approaching 100°. As a footnote, my current lifetime dash average is 44.6 MPG. But I have been able to get it to start increasing lately once again, even though it is in the summer desert heat, by taking the backroad city street routes whenever my time schedule permits. Today, with a high of about 105° and the morning commute temp at about 90°, my ~25 mile commute to work averaged out on the dash to about 48 MPG...with the inbound, morning temp, highway, and decreasing elevation commute trip at ~50 MPG, and the outbound, early-evening high temp, city streets, and increasing elevation commute at ~46 MPG. So in summary, my ~50 mile total commute trip today, in summer desert temps with half highway (65 MPH) and half city (~43 MPH average), was at 48 MPG average, 1 MPG above the old 47 MPG rating. :yahoo:

My first factory-ordered car was a 1985 Mustang GT. As it was my first brand-new car, I was expecting it to be perfect. So I took it in for every little thing. And some of them did not seem so little to me at all, like lifters that ticked way too loud for my tastes or when compared to my experiences with all of my previous cars. When I had the service dept try to fix my various and a sundry issues which I deemed inappropriate for my first new car, they would fix some, fix others slightly, and many times the dealership would cause other incidental damages or other issues to crop up afterwards. After that experience with my first new car and with the dealership's most-likely qualified service dept, I now live by this mantra... "If all of the car's functions I use are working correctly for the most part, and nothing has fallen off, I do not take my car in to be serviced, other than for the rare regularly-scheduled maintenance." With the wonderful roads we have to drive on these days, rattles are inevitable. So that is another reason why I love turning up my 6-speaker MFT stereo in my FFH SE...one, to hear my tunes at close-to-rock-concert loudness and quality, and two, to help cover up the rattles that might crop up here and there. Relax, don't worry, drive and enjoy!

LOL :hysterical:

I see my FFH as being a male, just because he is so muscular looking, and has the extra aggressive sporty looks due to the SE Appearance Package. I named my car before it was ever built, as it is an easy process for me now, seeing as how after naming my last few cars a certain way, I seem to have developed a pattern to naming them. And that pattern is to take the model name, and twist it around with a 'z' in the name somewhere, in honor of the late Frank Zappa, one of the most brilliant and eclectic musicians of all time. So for my FFH, I named him "Fuze". And then afterwards, I saw this t-shirt at CD3Perfomance.com, so I immediately bought it. :wub:

I saw this same topic title in the Fusion section at BOF: http://www.blueovalforums.com/forums/index.php?/topic/56937-ford-website-updated-to-build-and-price-2015-fusion/ So of course I went to the Ford website to check it out, and then I had to start the same topic on this forum too. It is interesting to note that when I configure the 2015 FFH to be as close to my SE configuration as possible (basically only diff is the SE wheel/tire combo, but no price diff), the 2015 version is just about $1000 cheaper now than my 2014 was. The reason being is that the SE 501A package is significantly less and the reverse sensors are now included in the MFT Tech Package since the rearview camera, which was previously part of the Tech Package in 2014, is now standard on the 2015 FFH. But the main reason I am making this post is that the 2015 FFH MPGs are showing up on the Ford website as 47/47/47 again, as can be seen at the bottom of this undoctored screenshot I just took. :-O I'm thinking they didn't do another SW update again, just for the 2015 FFH.

As I noted in my original post in this topic, I have personally seen up to 5kW power being drawn by climate control when my car was parked in the direct mid-day sun with temps at 105°. And I was not using the Max AC mode, since I never use it due to the FFH climate control already being so effective for me without me having to use it. From my observations in a desert clime, the initial A/C power draw has no dependence on the climate control settings I use, but only depends on the temp difference between the temp inside the car versus what my desired temp is. The desired temp setting is basically irrelevant for me too here in the desert since when a sealed car is parked in the direct sun in 105°-115° temps, the inside temp easily reaches 160°. The reason I say the climate control temp setting is "irrelevant" to me is that in the FFH a climate control setting of 72° vs say 82° is so much lower when compared to the inside temp of 160° that the computer will apply max A/C for either desired setting to try to bring the temp down, no matter what the desired temp setting is set to. So I have found that using the "Auto" setting works for me no matter what the temps are, since the FFH computers know when I really need the max A/C to be cranked up, and when I don't. But I do start out with the temp setting set to 82° to try to minimize the time the compressor is at that peak power draw level, and then once the A/C power draw has decreased to its lower, static level and the A/C starts blowing warmer air, I then start decreasing the desired temp setting, initially by 2° at a time, and then as I start to get close to my final desired setting, by 1° at a time. It is interesting to me that my final desired temp in the cooler morning temps can be as low as 72°, but in the afternoon heat-of-the-day, my final desired setting is usually more like 74°-75°. I figure this is due to the fact that the computer seems to want to blow cooler air at me when the temp delta between outside and inside desired temps is greater during the hottest temps of the day. So IOW, the air-flow temp I like to feel on my face is about the same either time of day, but in the morning an outside temp of 90° vs the 72° desired setting is a delta of 18° which is still much less of a delta then when the outside temp is 110° vs my 75° desired setting, creating a much larger delta of 35°. So the A/C will still be trying to compensate more during the hottest part of the day even though I have a higher desired temp setting (75° vs 72°) and therefore will blow colder, or at least as cold, temps at a higher desired setting. These FFH computers are so cool! (pun not really intended, but I'll take it) ;)

How does acdii do this? By continuing to accelerate, until going faster than 70mph?

I concur, please post all info!

This is the plot exactly as I observed and described :) , but with differing peak levels, final leveled-off levels, and time durations before the leveling off; all of which were based on the difference between the temps inside my car and the set temp on the climate control.

Also another point I would like to make is that I see very little difference in cooling efficiencies with doing a semi-manual setting of the fan speed to low, versus setting the climate control to Auto with a high temp setting such as 80°. The fan is still blowing at the same fairly low setting in either case, but the A/C power draw for the manual low-speed fan setting is 1 kW less (1.5 kW vs 2.5 kW) than the Auto setting (temp = 80°), so the manual setting of low fan speed seems to me like a better setting for higher MPGs.

That is actually part of my point, is that the initial high power draw is for such a short time, that I don't think it really matters what climate control settings you choose, since the ambient temps will be the major deciding factor for A/C power draws. And even with those differences in power draws for the excessively high temps, the real contributor IMHO is the excessive heat decreasing the charging and charge-maintainability of the HVB, which is the emphasis I was trying to impart when I started this topic to begin with.

And now after remembering that, I think I need to change my BKM to start with a semi-manual setting with a low fan setting at 80°, and then after I reach the final low-draw condition, I can then switch back to the Auto mode.