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2010 FFH with 130K miles in Virginia AC works great I have been noticing a damp carpet (and maybe a slight smell) in front passenger's footwell. Bottom of floormat when lifted up had condensation underneath, and carpet underneath was damp. I first thought this was occurring after rain, but I also thought it actually occurs after long road trips with AC on. For maybe 6 months now off and on dampness in that area. I just now pulled up/back carpet under glove box area. Had to remove plastic trim piece along bottom door edge seal area also (pulled up and wiggled free). Sound deadening cloth/under pad is soaked. Pool of water at base of footwell. Carpet underpad soaked all the way back to seat mount. Area is drying out now (I propped up carpet with plastic containers) in sun and directed fan as best I could. (I would prefer not to have to take the seats out ? ) This is a common problem on all cars (all makes) in that the AC condensate drain gets clogged up and water backs up into cabin. Also, gasket around drain through firewall may deteriorate and water drips back on drain pipe and through firewall. I searched internet for pics of AC drain. It should be on opposite side of condenser heater core plastic box low point. Some internet posts show a stub pipe coming out. Difficult to see on hybrid because ABS module is in way of view. Some have added a right angle elbow to direct condensate downward and silicone around firewall hole. Is there an easy way to get to drain and clean out? Anyone else had this problem? I even thought of cutting 1/2" hole on bottom of box on cabin side, and then seal with plug. I tried finding same topic on this site, but no luck.

Please ignore, Just found the exact same question posed with an answer. If I could delete I would. Thanks! Recently got a bit chilly here in Texas, about 43F. Normally keep the climate control on Auto and the temp set on 72. Started her up and headed on down the road. Outside Temp on the screen showed at 43. Noticed the air blowing strongly through the upper vents, AC light not on but for darn sure was blowing AC through the upper vents. Tried increasing the temp but the only thing that happened was the fan started blowing AC harder. Increased heat until it went to HI. Once it hit HI then air circulation went to the floor and heat started coming out of the vents. I then started to decrease temp and as soon as I got off of HI it started blowing through the upper vents on AC again on high fan. I manually decreased the fan speed and of course it went off of Auto. Decreased temp and AC started to blow again. Normally doesn't really get cold enough to run the heat but for several weeks a year it'll get into the 20'sand 30's at night and you do really need the heat. Researched this forum and saw several Climate Control posts that were similar but not really the same, I tried the master reset function but no joy. Anyone have any idea what's happening and how to fix? TIA. Marc

Can anyone assist in possibly diagnosing this problem? I'm thinking the AC compressor is bad. Whenever the AC is on it sounds like a jet engine under the hood. Lifted the hood, and the noise is coming from the compressor area. I made a short video of the noise. I'm still getting semi-cold air. https://imgur.com/a/QghqFuR

I posted this data as a response to a question I received in the "Fuel Mileage" topic category, but I wanted it to be listed in the "Climate Control" topic category as well, since this is a more appropriate place for this data. Over the course of several days, I have monitored the A/C power draw on the MyView gauge, and the behavior was not at all what I had expected to see. So to begin with, the A/C power draw data for in the morning when I leave for work, when the temps are in the 85°-93° range in my garage (outside temp is actually around 75°-80°), the A/C power draw climbs immediately to about 2.5 kW, no matter whether I am in complete "Auto" mode or in semi-manual mode or in Max A/C mode. It stays at that initial maximum draw for only about 1-2 minutes, and then over the course of about another 1 minute, it drops to a final level fluctuating between 0.4-0.6 kW, and stays at the same low level for rest of the duration of my 30 minute commute. Even if I change the temp or fan speed or air flow path, there is no effect on the A/C power draw, no matter whether I am at the initial high draw or at the final low draw. This was the surprising part for me. Now if I change to Max A/C mode after reaching the final low draw (0.4-0.6 kW), there will be no immediate effect on the A/C power draw. But after about 1 minute, the power draw will very gradually start climbing, and after several minutes of this Max A/C mode, when I can no longer stand it anymore due to the excessive noise, air flow, and coolness, it has only increased the power draw by about 1 kW to about 1.5 kW. I don't know if power draw while in Max A/C mode would keep climbing since I am not able to endure the Max A/C mode any longer after I have reached my limits of endurance. So now for the A/C power draw data for my return trip from work, when the ambient temps are at true desert-level temps. For my drive home from work, when the outside temp is around the 107°-110°, and with my FFH having been parked in the shade, the power draw curve over time is basically the same as I mentioned before, with the max power draw peak being immediately as soon as I turn the A/C on, and the final low power draw being reached a few minutes later. But the difference during these afternoon high temps of the day is that the max initial power draw is about 3.5 kW for about 2-4 minutes, and then the final low draw is slightly higher, fluctuating between 0.6-0.8 kW. The A/C power draw behavior I saw when I have been parked in the sun at 105° is that the peak draw was around 4.5-5 kW for about 2-4 minutes, and the final low draw was the same 0.6-0.8 kW draw that I saw when I started with my FFH in the sshade. To reiterate, I basically saw no difference in the power draws that I saw over the course of several days that could be directly attributable to the varying A/C modes that I had selected. The only variable that seemed to affect the A/C power draws, whether it be the initial peak draw or the final leveled-off draw was the temp inside the car, which was directly correlated to the outside temp and whether my FFH was parked in the sun or in the shade. I monitored the A/C power draw while using various climate control settings, including "Auto" mode with various temp settings between 72° and 80°, and including various semi-auto settings, by changing the fan speed, the air distribution settings, along with changing the set temps, and even using Max A/C, and I did not see any immediate change in the A/C power draw when I changed any of those settings. As I mentioned, the only time I did see any change in power draw was when I left the climate control on Max A/C mode for several minutes after reaching the final low levels, and it would only increase by about 1 kW above the final low draw. Anotber new-to-me observation I have noticed is that there does not seem to be any truly manual mode with my 2014 FFH climate control system since the temp setting is always involved to some degree or another in a semi-auto fashion. Even when the fan is set to a manual, user-specified speed and the air distribution setting is set to a manual, user-specified air vent selection. I have not found any way to not have the temp setting involved in some way, since it always seems to change the output air temp to its own volition. So here is a table summarizing the A/C power draw data, for desert ambient temps, that I have detailed above. Initial Park Condition and Ambient Temp --------------------------------------------- Shade, 85°-93° Shade, 107°-110° Sun, 105° -------------- ---------------- ----------- Initial Peak Draw 2.5 kW 3.5 kW 4.5-5 kW Duration of Peak Draw 1-2 minutes 2-4 minutes 2-4 minutes Final Draw 0.4-0.6 kW 0.6-0.8 kW 0.6-0.8 kW So based on my findings and comments from others in this forum, my BKM (Best-Known Method) that I use now is that I start my summer desert trips in Auto mode, with an initial temp setting of 80°, and then when I start feeling too warm due to the decreasing air temps being output through the mid-level dash vents, I will then drop the temp setting by about 1-2° at a time, which usually eventually ends up stablilizing on a setting in the 74°-76° range. Then, at my final selected auto temp settiing, if my eyes start getting too dried out from the air coming out of the mid-level dash vents, located on either side of the steering wheel which I always leave positioned directly at my face, then I switch the air distribution to be dash vents (middle level) and defrost vents (upper level), thereby being a semi-auto setting. And then I rinse and repeat at the beginning of the next day.

Does anyone know how to have the fan just blow outside air without heat or AC? I think my car has a software bug (or is possessed). I press "auto" and "auto" and "ac" light up. I press "ac" and the "ac" light turns off. But the AC is NOT off. It's a warm day so it's easy to feel if AC is on or not. If I change the fan speed the "auto" light turns off but it still blows cold air. How can something so simple not work?

This may be a silly question, but I couldn't find a definitive answer in the manual or related documentation. I keep the Climate Control on the "auto" setting, meaning it should stay at my selected temperature (let's say 70) inside the car. I've only had my Fusion HyTi since June, so it's only been used during warmer months. I've kept the settings on "auto" with the "A/C" button also selected. So primarily, the air conditioning has been running to keep the car cooler inside than the warmer temps outside the vehicle. Now, we are entering Fall/Winter, where the temps outside have been in the 50s. So my question is this: Do I need to keep that "A/C" button selected when the Climate Control is set to "Auto" during the winter? Will the "auto" portion of the configuration keep the car warm inside (my selected temp of 70) when it is in the 40s or 50s outside, even if the "A/C" button is not selected/lit? Or is there some reason to keep the "A/C" on to maintain a stable internal temp? Does it "hurt" to leave it on -- meaning, will the A/C run and take up more energy? Or, if the button is left on will the A/C simply not be triggered to run anyway if the outside temp is in the 50s and my selected inside climate control temp is 70?