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I have had my 2014 FFH SE since 2017. I bought it in 2017 and have loved it. It's in immaculate shape and still gets me 42 mpg in suburban driving back and forth to work (28 miles rnd trip). This past weekend it threw the Stop Safely Now (SSN) warning. First timeI let it sit, restarted, and it worked until it did it again two days later. Took it to a local mechanic with a deep scan and got the attached image. Tried "Just Answer" and mechanic there said it might be the traction battery. But Ford Dealer did deeper scan and said it's the TCM. quoted me $3500. Saying the part itself is $3000! Here's where I'm confused and looking for help: 1) If I search online for after market or used parts, and I use my car's year and model, when I say "TCM" I get hits for things on ebay...used parts. But the dealer said that these modules are often tied to the VIN of the original vehicle and I might not be able to use the used part. Anyone know if that's true. 2) Using the same process as in #1, the aftermarket items I see don't always look the same as what I know the TCM I'm shown in my car and in the other picture below. Why is that? Am I using the wrong name for the thing? 3) I've also tried searching for the SOBDC/PCM, but when that comes up, images do not look like the entire thing in the picture below. So I guess I have the following questions: 1) What should I be searching for -- specific Term. 2) Does anyone make an after market OEM (if those are the right terms) SOBDC/PCM for this car? 3) Is it worth trying a used one (saw one from a car with 32K on it if the VIN is still tied to the old car? 4) Do I bite it on a car with 119k and just have the dealer-supplied module installed? thank you. I've had little case to be here, so reliable and wonderful the car has been. But I do appreciate all who post here and all you've done. Thank you.

Hello all, 2013 Ford Fusion hybrid. Here's the deal, the car will drive In all electric mode. But the ICE will not start. It does not even try to crank. The 12v battery is new and fully charged. The HVB is fully charged as well. This is not an energi, it's a normal hybrid. The code I have is F00317. Look at the picture to verify the code and HVB status. Thanks for any and all help. David

2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid w/152k miles I've looked through the forum, but not finding the same combination of errors I'm having. Maybe someone could help. About 5 months ago I started getting random warnings in regards to the Advanctrac w/Wrench. At first I could restart the car and it would clear the warning. The warning got more persistent and wouldn't go away immediately after a restart, but for a good 4 months it would randomly pop up, then disappear for some time. Never consistent. Maybe got the error a total of 4 times. OBD scan of the DTCs would show nothing. A month ago I got the Advanctrac warning and soon followed by the Stop Safely Now warning (red triangle), and then a bunch of more warnings (Check High Voltage Charging, Engine Overtemp, Low Fuel (tank wasn't low), etc). Got the car towed to a dealership and they determined it was the 12V battery (old Battery was only 18 months old). Swapped it and tested. Worked fine for them. Car was no longer throwing warnings. I picked up the car and got about 5 miles before it threw the Advanctrac Warning again. This time it didn't go into SSN so I drove it back to the dealership. They tested it for 2 days and couldn't get it to error. On the third day it left the service manager stranded with the SSN error. They wanted $1600 to do a full check on the electrical connections. I balked and had the car towed back to my house. I checked the ground wires and cleaned one end with a wire wheel. Cleaned the Mass Air Flow sensor (that was replaced around 100k miles). Cleaned the Throttle body (I've replaced/cleaned this multiple times over the years). Car started and ran beautifully. Checked in Forscan for any codes and nothing. Ran car through various tests and it worked like a charm. Also reset the high voltage battery life to year 1 and the Hybrid system started functioning like it hadn't done in years. Reset the trip counter and started logging miles. Today I had gotten to just over 400 miles driven since the last SSN message. Felt really confident I had fixed the issue. Then as I was driving through a parking lot I went over a mild bump. Boom the Advanctrac Warning came up.... then 30 feet later I got the SSN message. Now I have my OBD tool and voltmeter with me to check some items. 12V Battery came back with expected values, OBD tool would NOT load. OBD tool not working has been a problem before when the SSN message came up and starting flashing the random warnings. Checked wired connections to battery, poked around to check fuses and any cables I could see. Kept trying to restart car, but to no avail. Got Advanctrac warning w/Wrench, then immediately the SSN red triangle. So I started the process to get my car towed back to my house. 30 minutes into my wait for a tow truck I decide to try the car again. All the warnings DO NOT come up. The car appears to be functioning again. I don't believe it, so I restart a handful of times. Still good. Plug my OBD tool in and it works. I check the codes and it has P260F - Evaporative System Monitoring Processor. First time I've seen this error code. Clear the code and it stays off. Drive the car around the parking lot to see if it would flake out again. It does not. Make the decision to just drive the car home (I was about 15 minutes away). Car drives home with no issue. So, now I'm back home with a car that works, but have no confidence in. Any ideas what I should check? The P260F code leads to checking/replacing the PCM, but this is the first time I've seen that error. I'm not getting any other codes that often relate to the PCM being an issue. I also can't find a video or good information on where the PCM is on the 2010 Hybrid. Car seems to have an Electrical gremlin somewhere, but I haven't found any issues in all my poking and prodding around the engine bay. I'm not finding much help on the internet of the Advanctrac warning followed by Stop Safely now other than checking the ground wires and swapping the 12V battery. Thanks for reading!

Hello, I have a 2010 FFH, I bought it back in 2018 with 124k miles and in good shape. A few nights ago, I went to start it, but it needed a jump to get going. The next day, I needed to jump it twice. Today, I went to get the battery tested, and it was suggested I get a new battery. It was six years old, after all. I installed it properly in the parking lot, and left the store. About a half mile down the road I was starting to drive up a hill, and I noticed the car was losing power. The ICE switched to EV, and the Stop Safely Now message popped up on the gage cluster. The car was still on, in EV mode, but it would not drive (in recent years, the EV mode would never produce enough power to drive on, so this is nothing new). I tried turning the car back on again, and the ICE kicked in, but went back to EV in the first 15 seconds. This is consistent too - the car will start properly, but the ICE shuts off within seconds, and the Stop Safely Now message pops up. No check engine light, however. I used a multimeter on the battery with the car off, and it read 12V. I turned the car on, and with the ICE running, it got up to 14V. This makes me think that the issue is separate from the battery and alternator. Does anybody have any idea what the issue might be? I most likely will need to have it towed to my local Ford dealership, but I want to get some ideas on what the issue might be. Thank you

I've had this car since new, now with 156k miles. Throttle body replaced in 2019, battery last replaced around 2017-2018. This past Saturday I had my first Stop Safely Now event. I was driving in about 65 degree, rainy weather, full tank of gas, about 45 minutes into a drive, when all of the sudden "Stop Safely Now" popped up on the dashboard and the engine lost all power. I've experienced throttle body / limp mode issues in the past, but this was the first time I've seen SSN + loss of all engine power. After pulling it over and letting it sit off for 30 seconds, I started it back up, and was able to drive 5 miles home without an event. I left the car in the driveway and purchased an ODBLink MX+ on Amazon, which came Sunday night. With the key in "On" (without the engine started) I was immediately able to pull the following codes (shown in screenshots below) Confirmed: P1A0C-00 Current: U3003-16 B10DA-86 U300A-62 P0562-00 P1000-00 P1A0C-00 P0562-04 I brought it to the dealership yesterday, with whom I've had a good relationship with for the past 12 years, but they weren't able to read any current codes from it. As such, they didn't find any issue, didn't charge me for the visit, and I drove the car home last night (without issue.) Three questions: 1. Has anyone else experienced similar codes with a "Stop Safely Now" event? 2. Are all of the current codes I'm seeing about battery power related to the fact that the car was "On" without the engine on? The dealership said the battery tested fine, and my scanner shows 13.7V - 13.8V, for what that's worth. 3. Why was I able to pick up these codes with the OBDLink and the dealership wasn't able to pick them up with their equipment? There aren't any codes listed in Engineering Test Mode, so I don't doubt the validity of their claim. I'm not sure where to go from here. I'm obviously hesitant to drive it under situations where it could be dangerous if it suddenly cuts out on me again.

I have read quite a few threads on this forum and my Stop Safely Now experience seems a bit different than others I have read about. I am scheduled to have the dealer do diagnostics to my 2010 FFH, 116000 miles in June and am trying to educate myself before I take the car to the dealer. I was travelling on I-40 across the Mohave Desert (lots of truck traffic) out in the middle of no where. The outside temperature was 105F, the AC was on and I was zipping along at 80 MPH. The engine temperature was perfectly centered in its range. First the yellow wrench light came on after I stopped for gas outside of Barstow. This has happened before when its very hot outside so I was not surprised. The yellow wrench light usually goes away if the ignition is turned off and then restarted. Being on the interstate I continued on. When I was really out in the middle of no where the dreaded ding ding ding chimed on and the Stop Safely Now message was flashing. There was no power available. Its as if the car drive system shut down. Slipping between trucks going 70 mph, I was able to maneuver to the side of the road. I shut down the car, waited a couple of minutes and restarted the car with the AC off. My FFH worked perfectly normal. I drove to the nearest Ford Dealer in Needles as I thought my 12V battery was bad but the battery tested good for full load operation. I continued on my trip to New Mexico with no further problems. This was over a month ago and the FFH operates perfectly normal - but it has also not been over 100 F. It seems this issue of the yellow wrench and this instance of Stop Safely Now is related to outside temperature. When it is above 100 F out there the yellow wrench is prone to come on. I am wondering if there are temperature sensors or cooling systems that could be under rated? I am really worried about being out in the desert when its hot especially if there are no people or services around which is the norm in the South West. Like I said I plan to have the dealer do full diagnostics but would like to be armed with ideas from the experts on this forum. Thanks for any ideas - Rob

Hello all and thanks in advance for any help! I have a 2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid with 150k miles and all scheduled maintenance performed on-time. I have a Stop Safely Now light that started intermittently a little over a month ago and is now hard failed. The first time it happened was 5 weeks ago and I had just returned from a trip out of the country and the vehicle sat 10 days without running. After starting the car I was able to drive about 20 feet at which time I stopped to connect bluetooth and the SSN message illuminated. My first thought was dead or dying battery since I have heard this could cause SSN. I jumped the car and drove without issue for the next two weeks. Then three weeks ago I got in the car after leaving it parked overnight and drove for about 10 feet before I got SSN. This time I decided to bite the bullet and buy a new 12V battery without testing the installed battery. After installing the new battery I still had the SSN light and I called it a night. Further research shows the 12V battery I removed assuming it was dead was only installed 3 years ago and is likely in serviceable condition. After letting the car sit overnight with the new 12V battery installed I started it in the morning with no problem and did the fuel trim learning game. I drove with the new battery for 3 weeks with no issues until last weekend. Now the car has the Stop Safely Now light illuminated on key turn and it will not move under its own power. I used my OBD2 reader to download codes twice. The first set of codes was downloaded right after the battery change so I am assuming some of the codes are from that: C1600 - reverse input circuit C1015 - exhaust gas recirculation sensor B circuit high U3003 - battery voltage I cleared these codes after the battery change and I had no engine lights or driving issues until last weekend. I also checked the engineering fault code page on the dash after the battery change and I had no current or historic faults recorded. Now the car has a OBD2 code C1018 - regen braking and on the engineering fault code page it lists DTC C46200 as a historical fault. Keep in mind I am using a very basic OBD2 reader so it is likely missing some faults. I have been reading everywhere about the Stop Safely Now issue and it seems to stem from a number of different issues, the most frequent being a coolant pump. I could really use any advice in troubleshooting this issue myself (I am an aircraft mechanic) or relevant manual references. I am trying to avoid a costly stealership repair but I am pretty stuck at this point. Worth mentioning all of the fuses are in good shape! Please let me know if you have any questions that would help point in the right direction.