lolder

Mpg is very dependent on temperature. It's most likely the SE mpg was in warmer temperatures than your recently acquired hybrid. It's 2 mpg less per 10º F. temperature drop.

Did it ever stream BlueTooth media?

The transmission is all one unit and would not normally be apart when installing. There is no way to know if transmissions made as late as 2016 will have the bearing problem. The TSB would not have been done unless it was taken in. I think you would have to have the VIN number of the car it was in to check the TSB. If you can't verify you should probably take it apart and do it. These transmissions should have lasted forever but for Ford screwing up a bearing.

100 K car miles. Its random after that and may never occur. The easiest solution is to replace the throttle body which is an easy back yard mechanic job. I think it costs about $250. The other solution is to clean it but you have to take it off to do that and you have to be careful not to damage the mechanisms while you scrape off the carbon with a wooden tongue suppressor or similar tool. I've never done it, just read about it.

Do not touch a 2013 unless the transmission has been replaced. I doubt the fuel system problems apply to the hybrid. We haven't heard of many on these forums. There was also some HVAC duct mold on some early 2013s and transmission seam oil leaks, all expensive out of warranty.

This post was in the 2010-12 thread which have a 17.5 g. tank.

That's not the most efficient use of the car. Use the ICE for acceleration.

At 70 mph and 90º F. it will get 39 mpg. Increasing speed costs 6 mpg per 10 mph increase. Decreasing temperature costs 2 mpg per 10º F. Headwinds cost 3 mpg per 10 mph. It's a very comfortable well-handling expressway car with an enormous fuel tank range of over 600 miles.

You can get the engine ( ICE ) to run by stepping down on the accelerator pedal in "P" until the ICE starts and it will charge the high voltage battery ( HVB ) until it is fully charged. The HVB should be at about the same state of charge ( SOC ) in the morning as you left it in the evening. The ICE and the shift between EV and ICE should be absolutely smooth. There should be no vibration. Do not skim through the manual, read every word.

It's port injection. I don't think the intake valve opens before the end of the exhaust stroke, I think it closes late in the compression stroke. The FFH gets carbon buildup but it usually doesn't cause problems until after 100k miles.

Here's some info: https://www.greenhybrid.com/forums/f13/introduction-ford-hybrids-20777/ I assume you have the Owners Guide and Hybrid Quick Reference guide. If not they can be obtained on-line. A block diagram of the FFH would look the same as a Prius but the architecture is different. Prius transmission motors are on the same axis but the larger Ford transmission has the larger traction motor MG2 mounted parallel to the planetary gear. The Ford is an eCVT that uses a planetary gear train instead of variable cones and belts. eCVTs have hardly anything to wear. They are just gears meshing with gears turning in bearings. No valves, solenoids, bands, torque converters. The power transfer and mixing between the ICE and motors is controlled electronically by software that varies the torque on "MG1" which is connected to the "Sun Gear" of the planetary gear. The carriage for the "Planet Gears" is connected to the ICE and the "Ring" gear is connected to "MG2", the traction motor, and through a differential to the wheels. There are no clutches or shifts. MG1 can operate in either direction as a motor or a generator. It also starts the ICE. There is no alternator or separate starter. There is a DC to DC converter to charge the 12 vdc battery from the HVB. The 12 vdc battery does not start the ICE, the HVB does. The HVB is protected by software and relays from ever being completely discharged in which case it would probably be "toast". Maintenance on a 2010 might be O2 sensors, dirty throttle body and noisy/failed electric vacuum pump.

Here's their web site: https://greentecauto.com/hybrid-battery/ford/2010-2012-ford-fusion-new-cell

Are you sure you're turning the car off?

The code has occurred a few times in older FFHs in hot, high speed cruising conditions. I vaguely recall there is a reprogramming of the motor/electronics cooling pump speed to correct this. Only Ford could have done this and they should have a record under the VIN number. Check with a Ford dealer. Also, if you buy the car, treat it to a new 12 vdc battery no matter how it tests. It is the weakest link in the whole system.

If it doesn't have any warning lights it's OK. Also, with the car off, hold the reset button for several seconds while turning key to start car. An "Engineering Test" mode will appear. There are ten screens you can cycle through with the reset button, the last displaying DTCs. Common problems will be; broken inside front door handles for which there's a YouTube video for fixing it yourself; sticking throttle plates that can be cleaned or replaced; O2 sensors and tire pressure sensor batteries reaching end of life. All these are minor.

This is the only post of the OP.

The transmission is covered by the 8/100,0000 hybrid warranty. Oh, I see you have 140K. Too bad.

OK

That's normal for an interstate trip. There is no break-in period for the car, only the driver.

Take it to Ford or a reliable shop for diagnosis. This is not backyard mechanic reparable except for the work around above. The compressor is high voltage and expensive and needs special refrigerant.

There aren't any "underpinnings" anymore with unibody vehicles. Maybe "drivetrain" is meant.

You have to determine what the problem is before you start to repair it. It may not be the sensor mentioned. That sensor was a problem in older Fusions.

This is probably a Ford dealer repair. It's going to cost you a lot. If it's the AC evap. sensor, here's a work around: http://www.instructables.com/id/Quick-fix-workaround-Ford-Fusion-AC-evap-sensor/

Yes, the wind resistance goes up as the square and my numbers are approximations. Sun light air conditioning load goes down slightly with increasing speed as the car exterior is cooled by the airflow. The ICE is also operating at higher power in a lower specific fuel consumption area. Between 50 and 80 mph you can bank on that 6 mpg/10mph loss. I've watched this for nine years. Headwinds and tailwinds are -/+ 3 mpg/10 mph wind speed. When you speed against headwinds in cold weather you'll run out of gas before the car warms up.

For the 2010-12 FFHs, from a reference point of 46 mpg at 50 mph and 60º F, mpg decreases 6 mpg per 10 mph speed increase. For every 10º F. temperature increase up to about 95º, the mpg increases 2 mpg. The 2013+ FFHs starting figure is about 50 mpg instead of 46, I think.