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If you're not in really cold weather the dealer didn't update it.

The 2010-12 FFHs have a battery saver that turns most things off after about 30 minutes. If you leave the ignition key in the accessory position the battery will die. That being said, you should replace the battery as it's probably been damaged by being completely discharged.

Are you sure you're in "D" not "L"?

It's a a "Technical Service Bulletin". In this case it's a software fix that takes about 15 minutes that they'll probably charge you for an hour if it is indeed the coolant pump.

There is a Ford TSB 11-7-31 about this that i believe increases the coolant pump speed. Only Ford can do this.

The normal level of HVB charge is about 1/2. When the car is warmed up at 30 mph on a level road it will alternate between ICE and EV about equally every 1/2 mile. The HVB cycles between 1/2 and about 1/3charge . It seldom goes above 1/2 except long high speed braking or going down long hills. The ICE will shut off when you are coasting below 46 mph. Here are the reasons why the ICE may run: 1: Low HVB 2: HVB reconditioning ( 2010-12 ) for about 20 minutes every 8-10k miles 3: Evaporative emmissions check at start up 4: Speed over 46 mph. 5: Higher power demand such as acceleration 6: Cabin heater demand 7: Warmup of catalytic converter when cold and speed above 12 mph. ( 2010-12 ) 8: Use of "L" gear 9: The ICE is motorized with no fuel flow when coasting down steep hills and speed exceeds 46 mph or at any speed while brake depressed and HVB becomes full. For instance if you are coasting at 60 mph and put on the brake, when regen is not sufficient the brake pedal will call for higher motorizing rpm for compression or "jack" braking. If it doesn't behave like this the software has not been changed. The behavior change is dramatic.

That's the cheapest dealer update so far.

It's unlikely that it's the transmission unless it has been making a grinding noise for a long time. common to early 2013+ FFHs. There's nothing to cause "bucking" in it, no clutches, bands, torque converters, valves, actuators, etc. It's only gears rolling on gears. Check brakes and other components.

Write a scathing review of the first dealer naming names.

No it's not. The FFH uses an Atkinson cycle engine.

That's BS ! Tell them you're going to burn the shop down with them in it.

It sounds like the software update was not done correctly. There is a dramatic improvement even in hilly areas. The ICE should cut off when you take your foot off the accelerator below 46 mph. At 30 mph on level roads it should run about 1/2 mile in ICE and about the same in EV alternating.

I think you can get gas in the charcoal canister.

In today's uncertain times I would never go below 1/3 tank.

There's another 1.5 gal after empty. Don't test this. Let the pump auto shut-off and don't put anymore in. You can damage the emissions system.

Don't worry about the HVB replacement. It'll probably be fine for many years.

The D.O.E. testing showed 8% capacity reduction at 160k miles. Prii have functioned normally with 60% reduction. The car will operate so long as the HVB doesn't fail open circuit. There have been no reports of this anywhere on forums. The OEM software also stopped re-conditioning events which have been restored by the fix. Much better for the HVB.

The reduction in EV operation is due to OEM software that reduces the HVB output as a function solely of chronological age. Tests by the US government and anecdotal reports show that the HVBs have suffered very little degradation. The repair should restore close to normal operation.

I would think when it fails.

That's normal. It is slightly related to the percent of HVB charge. Don't force EV mode. It's only for low speed and not for acceleration.

How long have you owned the car? O2 sensors and spark plugs give messages if they're bad. Cold weather significantly lowers mileage. ECMs don't need to be reset. On level roads at 30mph with cruise control on and cabin warm does the car go in and out of EV about every 1/2 mile? That's normal. If not the software fix probably has not been done.

Read this thread: https://www.fordfusionforum.com/topic/19361-my-instructions-on-restoring-the-hybrid-ev-function-on-the-ford-fusion-hybrid-approaching-the-89-years-mark/

There is a TSB 11-7-31 for this that increases the RPM for this pump. If it was not working at all it wouldn't be intermittant. The TSB was for older cars but it may be the same solution for newer ones. I wouldn't try doing it yourself as working on the motor/electronics cooling system requires a lot more than novice skills. Try Ford first.

You need to do the software HVB age reset as described in several threads. There's probably nothing wrong with the HVB.

Most hybrids of that era were below the DOE targets even when new so that statement is unimportant but the HVB durability performance of the Ford was better than all the others. There were two cars in the test operated by a delivery service in Phoenix. The other one got rear ended by a truck at 70,000 miles that totaled it. Up to that time it was performing the same.