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They are completely different vehicles. Does it have the same problem?

Here is the fix: https://www.fordfusionforum.com/topic/19361-my-instructions-on-restoring-the-hybrid-ev-function-on-the-ford-fusion-hybrid-approaching-the-89-years-mark/

These are major failures the dealer should fix immediately under warranty. Go make another effort and make a "scene" if necessary.

The HVB is 200+ D cell sized batteries connected in series. If a cell shorts, the battery will lose a little capacity but still operate the car. That is the usual failure mode for NiMh batteries. If a cell opens, the HVB will have zero output and the car will not move or start the ICE. There is no way to predict either failure mode. When the OEM software started limiting HVB power, it also stopped the HVB reconditioning events. They may now resume which is characterized by no EV operation for 15-20 minutes and the HVB goes to a very high SOC. When successful, normal operation returns. If not, it is rumored that a message is displayed and to take it to the Ford dealer. I've never heard of that actually happening. My 2010 FFH HVB reconditioned about every 8k miles. Other maintenance issues are O2 sensors, dirty throttle bodies and noisy electric vacuum pumps which are a problem on other Fords as well. These are repairable. Aftermarket HVBs are available for about $3k plus installation. The ICE and transmission should last a very long time. My 2010 went to a grandson over a year ago. He hasn't done the reset yet.

I'd change the battery first but if it is the sensor it's going to cost you a lot more at the Ford dealer which is the only place that can fix it.

Go ahead and change the 12 vdc battery anyway. It's the cheapest next step before any diagnosis including checking the 12 vdc battery. They're about $120 only available from Ford last time I checked. You need to move the air intake tube back to get at the battery tie down bolt. It's very hard to twist the air tube rubber seal loose. There's another bolt holding an odd shaped plastic resonator connected to the intake tube that you have to remove also. You need a socket and extension to get to the tie down bolt. With the proper tools it's a 15 minute job. Testing the 12 vdc battery may not discover problems with it that the car's computers don't like. Multiple unconnected advisory lights are almost always due to the 12 vdc battery.

Some history should be repeated. Ford hybrids started with the 2004 Escape. Transmissions for all Ford Motor Co. hybrids through 2012 were built by Aisin, the "Borg Warner" of Japan 50% owned by Toyota. They had very few failures. I have not heard of one. In 2013, Ford brought the manufacture of a "new improved" transmission in-house. They looked identical to the Aisins. Failures immediately began and continue to this day. The newer the hybrid, the fewer failures have been reported but as above 2018 was not exempt. The transmission ( and engine ) must be removed and repaired or replaced. Ford did it under the 8/100k mi. hybrid warranty but not after. There is hardly anything to wear out in these transmissions. No bands, valves, solenoids, clutches, converters; just two AC brushless motors and gears rolling in bearings. It is a bearing that is going bad and it ruins the transmission. Sad story.

The 2013-14 FFHs have several problems. They have a transmission bearing problems that may appear anytime during their life. Do not buy one unless it has had the transmission repaired or replaced. If you have a problem out of 8/100k mile warranty it's very expensive. Some also had a mold problem requiring the whole HVAC ducting replacement behind the instrument panel. Some transmissions also leaked oil at the join seam.

See posts # 114, 138,162,163, 181 of above thread and this post: https://www.fordfusionforum.com/topic/19361-my-instructions-on-restoring-the-hybrid-ev-function-on-the-ford-fusion-hybrid-approaching-the-89-years-mark/ by allen84. Most Ford dealers have been reluctant to do this for perhaps reasons I mentioned in post #162. Ford probably put the software calling for HVB performance reduction after the hybrid warranty expiration on purpose. Performing the HVB age reset restores normal EV function.

File a NHTSA report here: https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/owners/SearchSafetyIssues

If you're over 100k you're probably out of luck. This is a known defect in 2013-14 and even beyond. Way too many failures due to a defective bearing. Ford is just waiting out the warranty expiration. 2004-11 Escape hybrids and 2010-12 Ford, Lincoln, Mercury hybrid sedans had a transmission built by Aisin, the "Borg-Warner" of Japan. It was bullet proof. 2013+ hybrids are a completely different car and Ford brought the transmission manufacture in house and said it was "new and improved" over the Aisin. It looks almost identical. They screwed it up probably by saving $ 0.89 per bearing. Ford doesn't care what you think because they're stopping selling most cars in the US. NHTSA won't issue a recall because the cars don't usually die on the road but file a report anyway here: https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/owners/SearchSafetyIssues Ford finally is stepping up for owners on the dual clutch transmissions. Maybe they will for the hybrid. Don't hold your breath. Tesla and the EV wave will probably put them out of business.

The transmission is covered under the hybrid warranty which is 8 years/ 100k miles. CARB warranty is higher but that might only be for the HVB. Read the manuals.

Never heard of this problem.

I don't think you should change to synthetic with high mileage cars that had been on regular oil. That used to be the recommendation. It may have been on semi-synthetic and that may be okay. Google changing type of oil..

Change the 12 vdc battery before you pay for any diagnostics. Don't even check the battery, just change it. Even if someone says it's ok, change it.

The AC compressor in the FFH is operated by high voltage. As I recall it may require special oil.

It's hard to get a mile of EV range. Typically at 30 mph the car will cycle between EV and ICE about every 1/2 mile. The HVB cycles between about 1/3 and 1/2 charge. 1/2 charge is the normal max. It can be seen in the "Empower" dash display mode. There are 4 modes that are selectable in the menus accessed by pressing the proper buttons on the left of the steering wheel. If the HVB age software has been reset as mentioned above and the EV cycles on and off properly, it's probably OK. Other maintenance issues have been O2 sensors and electric vacuum pumps at high mileage. Make sure you get all the paperwork including the "Hybrid Quick Reference Guide" and the "Owners Guide" and read them thoroughly twice cover to cover. If they aren't in the car they may be available on-line.

This is most likely due to the software limiting EV operation as mentioned elsewhere in this forum. How long have you had the car? While driving at a steady 30 mph do EV and ICE operation alternate every 1/2 mile or so which is normal?

It's not normal.

Walk away.

That's not the original behavior. It's the battery software that is discussed in this thread.

The cars are not designed to accelerate in EV mode. It can only be done very slowly on level roads . Once at speed it should stay in EV mode for only about 1/2 mile at speeds below 45 mph. The ICE then runs for about 1/2 mile and the cycle repeats. That is normal operation. The HVB SOC varies between 1/2 and about 1/3 while this occurs. It appears all the cars are going to have an EV problem due to the software. Ford's silence about this is typical. It may have been done to preserve ICE starting capability of aging HVBs. The cars still operate with the degraded EV function but if the HVB became too weak to start the ICE the cars would die on the road which might prompt a recall from NHTSA which might require Ford to replace the HVB's at their expense outside of warranty. In series/parallel hybrids like Fords and Toyotas, one of the two large 3 phase motor/generators in the transmission, nominally called MG1 starts the ICE with energy from the HVB. It is over 60 hp! It also controls the transmission and the application and mixing of torque to the wheels. A larger motor/generator MG2 is connected directly to the front wheels and provides power for moving and regen braking. It's a complicated system smoothly controlled by electronics and software. The transmission is actually a simple planetary gear system. No bands, clutches, solenoids, torque converters. Just gears meshing with gears to accomplish speed reduction and differential operation. There is no separate 12 v starter motor or alternator. Power to keep the 12 v battery charged comes from a solid state DC to DC converter which converts the several hundred volts of the HVB to 12 v. MG1 spins the ICE up to about 1000 rpm in about 1/2 second and ignition is then turned on and fuel flow ramped in to produce a smooth power flow with MG2. The energy used to start the ICE is small but the power required is large. Power is force like horsepower and energy is power times the time like horsepower-hour. When new, the HVB can put out about 25-30 hp and about 2 hp-hrs. Department of Energy tests showed this was only degraded about 8% after 160 k miles. The test cars put this mileage on in just a short time of a few years so they didn't come up on the software limit.

The cars when new would accelerate only very slowly in EV by design. That's an area where they want the ICE to run. All the energy comes from gas so don't push EV use. The car knows best. Here's a brief summary. In HEVs, ( not PHEVs ) all the energy comes from fuel. The "ICE-generator-charge-discharge-motor-wheels" energy path of the EV cycle has more loss than the "ICE-wheels" path so EV should be AVOIDED above 40-50 mph. Higher speeds cost 6 mpg per 10 mph. Lower temperatures cost 2 mpg per 10º F. Headwinds ( and some crosswinds ) cost up to 3mpg per 10 mph. Noisy roads can cost 2 mpg. Heavy rain can cost up to 10 mpg. AC can cost over 10 mpg for a few minutes in a heat soaked car tapering off to 1-2 mpg. These effects are mostly cumulative and the inverse effects are also true. 1: Low HVB2: HVB reconditioning ( 2010-12 )3: Evaporative emissions check at start up4: Speed over 46-62-86 mph depending on model and software.5: Higher power demand such as acceleration6: Cabin heater demand7: Warmup of catalytic converter when cold and speed above 12 mph. ( 2010-12 )8: Use of "L" gear9: The ICE is motorized with no fuel flow when coasting down steep hills and speed exceeds 46 mph or at any speed while brake depressed and HVB becomes full. For instance if you are coasting at 60 mph and put on the brake, when regen is not sufficient the brake pedal will call for higher motorizing rpm for compression or "jack" braking.?

This may be why Ford may not do this. The HVB starts the ICE and they may be limiting the EV use to preserve that function. NHTSA would probably not recall for poor EV use but if the car dies on the road, they would recall and Ford would have to fix the HVB out of warranty.

You should be able to accelerate to maybe 35. Get it fixed as noted.