Yea, sounds like he's just confused about what a modem actually is. In Ford speak, it's called a TCU (telematics control unit) and not a modem, but from a customer point of view they call it call kinds of different things, like Sync Connect, MyFord Mobile, FordPass Connect and so on. So he probably is confused thinking "Sync Connect" is the same thing as "Sync 3" and did a VIN search, found your vehicle has "Sync 3" (meaning the upgraded 8in screen) and assumed that you had a modem. He would also know that Sync is always updated with software, and thus that's what he told you, not realizing Sync and the TCU are totally different systems. Honestly it's not really hard to see why people get so confused about these things given the mixed up terminology used by Ford and the roll-out of the systems across the different models over a period of 3-4 years.

Sounds like you're both confused which is understandable as Ford never clearly published what's going on with the modems. From what I can gather, the Energi had a modem in 2017, and that would have been a 3G. The Platinum trim also came with "Sync Connect", so that would have been a 4G. Only in 2019 did Ford add the modem to "regular" Fusions (SE and above in 2019, all in 2020) , and that would have been a 4G. But the Energi kept the 3G until the end in 2020. So if your 2017 is just the regular hybrid, not the plug-in, not a Platinum, then you do not have any modem. Even the apps themselves are different, the Energi uses "MyFord Mobile", while the others use FordPass.

The 2014 Fusion had an optional package that included a bunch of driver aid features, including Adaptive Cruise Control and Collision warning. Both of those depend on a radar system mounted behind the front bumper. If those warnings are the only ones you have, chances are there is an issue with that radar module. Sometimes it can just be a calibration issue, and I think there are ways you can even do that yourself (with Forscan or some other electronic tools), or you might be in for an expensive replacement module. The system also uses the camera mounted behind your rearview mirror, but if that camera were the issue, you'd also likely have warnings about the lane keeping system and maybe the auto-high beam system as well. In the meantime, there should be a setting under the "Driver Assistance" section of the left side cluster menu that lets you set the cruise control to "normal" mode. That means it won't slow down when you come up behind a car like the adaptive cruise does, but at least it would help you hold your speed on the highway.

All Ford's that have the lane keeping system have the ability to correct for you. It's something that can be turned on and off in the settings. Perhaps somehow that setting got changed and that's what you're feeling? Otherwise, the usual suspect is the alignment. You say it's good, but what are the toe settings? It only takes a little bit of rear toe out to cause the wandering you're talking about. Also although alignment machines can be very precise, they also need to be regularly calibrated. If the shop that checked it hasn't had their machine calibrated in a while, it might not be giving a good reading.

There's no point in building cars for Uber drivers. In 5-10 years automated vehicles will replace uber drivers in all major urban areas. Fully electric cars will whiz around on their own, picking people up and dropping them off, then meandering over to a charge station when they need to.

Why do you keep arguing while ignoring everything I say? Did you not read the 3 subsequent posts I've made in this thread? You are still arguing with my first post, and not the other 3,

Charging infrastructure will quickly evolve to the point where people can manage the occasional long range trips. But you are still missing the point. Gas engines and hybrid powertrains cost a LOT of money to PRODUCE. In 5 years, OEMs will be able to produce a decent 300mile range BEV for say $25K. But it will easily cost another $5K to produce the PHEV stuff. In order to keep the margins the same and no externally subsidies, it means a PHEV will cost the customer about $10,000 more than a BEV of equivalent size. Do you really think people will pay that extra $10K for that rare long trip where they need the gas engine? Certainly some might, but my wager is not enough will to make it worth the investment by the OEMs.

Exactly, that's why BEVs are the correct answer. Why suffer the inefficiency of lugging around a gas engine and powertrain that you aren't using, never mind the cost of producing that engine? I don't see why you think automakers are stupid because they stopped producing cars that lost a lot of money and will be made obsolete by low cost BEVs in just a few years. Ford has come out with the Mach-e and the F150 Lightning, both of which have year long waiting lists and in many cases are selling for over MSRP. When GM was producing the Volt, they practically had to give them away. In business you can either try to educate people and make them smart, so they buy your product, or you can build a product that stupid people want. The smart businesses build the stuff the stupid people want.

I meant investment by the OEMs. The smart OEMs have stopped investing in PHEV technology because they realize it is a dead end. Just because the Volt was PERFECT for you, doesn't mean it's perfect for the vast majority of the population or the company building it.

The Volt was only that price because it was heavily subsidized by both the government and General Motors. GM (and Ford) clearly saw that making small low-priced PHEVs was not a sustainable business model, even with high gas prices. As battery costs drop over the next decade, BEVs will be so, so much cheaper to build than PHEVs that PHEVs will become obsolete and anyone who invested in them will have thrown their money down the toilet.

The state-of-charge graphic in the cluster isn't a 0-100% gauge, it's more like a 30-70% gauge. So just because the graphic shows low battery charge, it doesn't really mean it's as low as you think it is.

The reason the bolt needs to be tightened at the proper ride height is so the bushing isn't preloaded. It's a rubber bushing that acts like an elastic band; if it gets twisted it stretches and wants to pull itself back to normal position. So it's not like it's going to instantly fail the minute you start driving, but it is going to cause a harder ride than if it was done properly. Over time it could eventually fail the rubber and this might result in a clunking, but even then, the rubber doesn't just disappear, so it's still unlikely that any metal would ever touch other metal. So with all that, what I'm suggesting is the problem lies elsewhere. Lots of things could go wrong in a strut installation to cause a clunk, maybe the spring isn't seated properly, maybe there's a problem with the top mount, maybe any one of the bolts/nuts didn't get tightened properly. Given that the car is new to you, could it be you just didn't notice the noise before? Maybe it's something else entirely, like a stabilizer bar link or an engine mount.

The 2011 won't do 60 mph on the highway in EV mode, that's only the 2013+ that can do that. There are about a billion threads on this forum about optimizing fuel mileage, so do some searching and reading, but there could be a lot of things. As you've already noted, driving style and environment is a big one. But also tires, carrying around extra weight, dragging brakes, and with a 10+ year old could be general maintenance things like spark plugs, engine cleaning and all that stuff. Also keep in mind you can't make fuel economy calculations on short distances. If you've had the car less than a week, none of your numbers mean anything yet. You need to do hand calculations (gallons put in at the pump divided by distance traveled) on two tanks before you can really draw any conclusions.

I think it depends on what trim series you have. If you have auto-up windows in the back, then the "global close" feature will work. But if you don't have auto-up windows, the feature doesn't work.

The Fusion hybrid works by primarily using regen through the electric motor to stop the car, unless you are stopping quickly and also below 5mph. Below 5mph it turns off the regen and switches to the normal brakes exclusively. So it sounds like the regen is working normally, but the problem is noticeable when it tries to switch from the regen over to the friction brake system. Given the warning lights as well, my first guess would be that one of the wheel speed sensors got disturbed. Otherwise it could be that they messed with the master cylinder and let some air into the system or somehow otherwise disturbed the electronics.

Whenever you replace any of these electronic components, they need to be configured to match your as-built data (aka software configuration). Who did the replacement and did they attempt to configure the software?

Yep the ICE has to run to generate the heat for the cabin, that's the only way. The standard hybrid doesn't have an electric heater like the Energi does. And once the battery is full, it will generally try to run both ICE and battery power to keep some space in the battery for regen. My 2014 works exactly like this as well. I'll often shut off the heater when the battery is full and use up that energy before turning the heater back on.

Well that doesn't make a lot of sense, the whole point of the Energi is to reduce costs, not add them. Sure your electric bill will increase, but it will be more than offset by the fuel you save. And with a plug-in you don't need to worry about the charging infrastructure, if you can't find a place to plug in you don't have to. You can just drive around using gas like a regular hybrid. But the economics really come down to the deal you get when purchasing. True an Energi has a higher sticker price than a normal hybrid, but with incentives from Ford and from the government (I think Ontario will still give you $2500 rebate for an Energi), the purchase price can actually be less. So for me the real decision comes down to the trunk space. The Energi has SIGNIFICANTLY less trunk space than the regular hybrid. You can't fit a large kids stroller in the Energi but you can in the hybrid. That was important enough for me that I chose the regular hybrid and not the Energi.

MeeLee has a 2019 so his input is completely irrelevant to this thread. This thread is about updating older Fusions to the same thing that MeeLee already has.

Totally depends on the condition of the battery, the weather/temp it's seeing and many other factors. I left mine for around 5 weeks with no problems at all in the past, but more recently during the pandemic it would die after just a couple weeks.

I'd agree, no need to panic just yet. Could just be a one time glitch in the electronics. It is unlikely to be the PSCM, if that had a problem you would get a different set of error messages and it wouldn't cause the lack of power. The "Stop safely now" is usually specific to some of the hybrid components. Without any codes, there really isn't much you can do, other than wait and see if it happens again, and try to find some common patterns. As for the PSCM, it's not a recall, it's a customer satisfaction program, so the laws that apply to recalls don't apply here. But generally the idea is that if it hasn't gone bad in 10 years, then it's very unlikely yours has the defect that the program was meant to address.

As I posted right above yours, it's not likely a spec issue, it's probably a worn suspension component. The tires on my 2014 are just about to be replaced. They are still the originals and are perfectly worn right across. In fact I just replaced both rear shocks last weekend - one of them was completely blown, and yet it still didn't cause a tire issue. On my other vehicle (a 2010 Lincoln MKT) I had issues with the inside edge of the rear tires wearing. Found that the toe-links were bad. Had those replaced about 4 years ago and the tire wear problem is solved. So before you go spending a lot of time trying to optimize the alignment, make sure all the parts are in good condition first.

CV joints should last forever unless there is some external factor like hitting a curb or other impact. There is nothing on the FFH that needs greasing.

Must be a typo in the shop manual, because 30kph is a lot closer to 20mph than 8mph. The Mach-E and Maverick shop manuals say 0-18mph, so guess they missed the 1.

Yep, sounds like the "sounder" for pedestrian protection. From the workshop manual: Due to the quiet nature of vehicles operating in electric mode, pedestrians may not be aware of the presence and operation of the vehicle, creating a risk for injury. The pedestrian alert system provides an audible sound from front and rear mounted speakers to alert of a vehicle approaching in forward or reverse at vehicle speeds between 0-30 km/h (0-8 mph). I've often described it as the "haunted ice cream truck sound". My neighbors have an Audi e-tron and that thing has a very unique sound, it sounds very sporty but it's quite loud. I can always tell when it's coming, even before I see it.