I don't think you're at risk of causing any further damage driving as is for a bit. Ultimately the system is designed so that if you just smash the brake pedal, the hydraulics take over and the car will stop.

I'm not an expert on the complicated brakes of the hybrid, but you need to understand they don't work the same way as brakes on a regular car. Every time you hit the brake pedal, the car first uses regen to slow the car down, then as you start to brake harder, it will start to apply the friction brakes. But then at low speed (it's 5mph on my 2014), it will stop regen and use the friction brakes 100%. It's this transition that usually causes the slip feeling or other times can cause the opposite - a grabbing feeling (happens when you're brakes are wet on the first stop). That transition is controlled by the ABS module electronically, so it would seem certain that it's something in the ABS system causing your issue. It could be as simple as a rear tone ring signal. If the system is getting bad data in, it can't make accurate decisions. The signal from the tone ring could be off by just enough that the computer thinks it's still valid, but it's actually not accurate. Only when it's so bad that the computer figures "hey, that can't be right", does it then throw the codes. So I would recommend to replace the ring and wheel speed sensor and see if that fixes it. As for the missing brake fluid, it could just be normal wear. As your brake pads wear, the calipers move out to compensate and that draws fluid in behind them. So it's normal for your reservoir to drop as the brakes wear. It shouldn't run the reservoir totally dry though, but maybe it was low to start with the last time the pads were changed, As for bleeding the ABS, I wouldn't worry too much about it. If you've got a good pedal at high speeds, it's unlikely that you've got any air in there. One thing you can do though is just cycle the ABS yourself. When you get a day with some snow on the ground, just go out to a safe spot and do a full ABS stop from 30mph a couple of times. That should cycle any air out of the system if there's anything in there.

Plenty of info about this out there on the internet. Here's one video that is pretty comprehensive and specific to the Fusion:

Sync 3 came out in the Fusion in 2016, so your 2015 certainly doesn't have it. The kit you link to would likely be the easiest way to get Android auto. There are plenty of vendors selling these kits, some may be more trustworthy than others, so buyer beware. Also note that some Sync 3 kits include factory navigation and others do not. Note how the link you post says "enabled Navigation through phone apps". That means it does not have built-in Navigation, meaning the only way to use navigation on the screen will be to connect your phone with a USB cable and rely on your phone's data plan and cell signal. The kits with built-in Navigation typically cost around $200 more.

If you're listening to the radio, then the car won't be looking for any signals from your phone, so it won't be able to play the GPS. If you're playing bluetooth audio from your phone, then it should also pick up the GPS instructions. But if you have a 2018, you should have Carplay and Android Auto (assuming you have the touchscreen). If you plug your phone in and use either of those, you should be able to get GPS instructions through the car speakers no matter what you're listening to.

Nope. The yellow lights on the mirrors are reserved for the blind spot system. There's really no way to confirm the heated mirrors are working unless it's actually melting some ice.

Good grief, you know that's been a part of Sync since 2008?? ?

You can also use the voice commands to select the music. Just hit the voice button and say "play artist Shania Twain" and it should select all the Shania songs on your USB.

If you're talking about walking along the side of the road I agree. If you're talking about in a crowded parking lot, it's not the case at all. There's been numerous times in my FFH (which doesn't have the sounder) that I've been driving along in EV mode at about 5mph in a parking lot and had people walk in front of me or just walk right down the middle of the row in front of me. That hardly ever happens when i'm in an ICE vehicle or even when the ICE is on in the FFH. Plus there's the scenarios of backing out or pulling out of the parking space. You can't hear tire slap when a car isn't even moving, but an engine or sounder does give a clue that a vehicle is potentially about to move.

Actually that is exactly how it works. It doesn't need to be colder outside than inside for your A/C to work, and it doesn't need to be hotter outside than inside for your heat pump to work. Better go read up on this a little bit more please.

There is no real answer to your question. It depends on so, so many factors, that the range is probably from 4 to 20 years. I've still got tires on my Miata that I installed in 2004. Are they "safe"? I drove it around a little bit this year - burned off about 1/4 tank of gas total. Nothing happened, so what does that mean? They certainly don't have the grip they did when they were new, but these are ultra high-performance tires, so when their grip is 50% of what it was when new, it's still about average for a regular tire. Of course the real danger is having a blow-out. But blow-outs result from more factors than just age. Tire pressure and temperature are just as big or bigger factors than tire age. So if you overinflate your 10 year old tires and drive at lower speeds in the winter, you're probably "safer" than driving on 5 year old tires at lower pressure on the highway crossing Arizona in the summer.

Ding, begin the controversy! The engine is designed to run on regular fuel. That's what it wants. It's a complete waste to run premium, in particular with an Atkinson cycle naturally aspirated engine.

Still have the original 12V in my 2014, now with about 65K miles. Back in the deep days of the pandemic, I didn't use the FFH at all, it sat untouched for a couple months. After that the 12V was totally dead and I went around shopping for a new one but couldn't find one locally. Instead I bought a CETK charger and put it to work. Now two years later and I'm still nursing that old battery along. Just noticed yesterday that the reverse park aid beeps are coming from the cluster and not the rear speakers again - one of the first signs of a 12V issue. So probably needs to go back on the charger for another overnight. But my point is, don't just give up on the 12V at the first sign of an issue. A little love can keep them going for a while.

We need more details here on what warranty you are talking about. Are you talking about the factory warranty, a Ford extended warranty or a 3rd party warranty? How many miles are on your car? Catalytic converters are covered by the factory emissions warranty, which is I think 8 years or 100,000 miles, so are you over 100,000 miles?

Your understanding of the details is a bit off. A heat pump doesn't "generate electricity", it still consumes electricity to run the pump and it isn't really over 100% efficient when you get down to the details, but it is certainly more efficient than resistive heating elements. It is basically an A/C system running in reverse, just pulling the air from the hot side instead of the cool side. But the devil is always in the details, you need to carefully design the system for the conditions you expect to use it in, with respect to sizing and pressures if you want to get the efficiency gains from it. It doesn't make a lot of sense on a hybrid that already has a heat source (the ICE), but it certainly looks like it will be the standard system going forward on EVs.

For the 2013 and newer? Please post some links to said threads. But the design life of every part on every Ford is 150K miles, so I still stand behind that the battery will last as long as everything else.

You can program the keypad codes to tie to each memory setting, so it certainly could be the keypad causing both issues. Try putting a big thick piece of tape over the keypad next time you go through the wash just to see if that narrows down the problem.

The miles to empty is a prediction based on the history or recent driving. So it's still pulling data from the previous owner and/or all the time spent at the dealer. Give it a few tanks and it will work itself out.

The steering wheel in my 2014 actually has some issues with the leather, it's become quite rough on the left side. The battery on the other hand, is perfectly fine.

The battery will last as long as every other part of the car.

It's called the PACM module and it's located in the right side of the trunk, basically opposite of where the 12V battery is. But it's on the CAN network, so you just need to work some software magic through the OBD.

It's just a little speaker mounted underneath the car. It's just playing a short sound file on a loop, so you could theoretically program in a new sound file and have it sound like anything you want.

As mentioned the biggest consideration is the trunk space. I couldn't get by with the Energi trunk, so I got an FFH instead. But if you're not going to regularly plug it in, there is no point to get the Energi. Everytime you drive an Energi around using the gas engine, you're burning extra fuel to carry around the significant weight of the battery that you aren't using. Even a coal fired electric plant is more efficient than a small internal combustion engine, so if you get an Energi, plan to plug it in every day. Another point, Ford went through a LOT of cost cutting at the end of the Fusion run. If you can find a nice 2018, it will probably be a better buy in the long run than a 2020.

Sorry, but you cannot add the modem to your car, as it didn't come with it from the factory. The $240 price must be to update the Energi 3G to a 4G, but only the Energi (plug-in) models have that.

My rear brakes didn't even last half that long and I also am very light on the pedal. In fact ironically I believe the lighter you are on the pedal, the more you will wear the rear brakes (while keeping the fronts virtually brand new). That's because with the modern electronic brake force distributions systems, the computer will send the braking to the back first and keep it proportionally much higher than "traditional" balance until you start to brake much harder. Only then will it start sending pressure to the front brakes. Combine that with the regen of the hybrid, and you end up not using the front brakes at all, and using the rears quite a bit.