Cobra348

The repair: With the HyTi I had, I would lock the fob in the car and use the keypad for entry ... except in Winter when I'd remote start it if needed. I wanted to do the same with the current car but experienced trouble - keypad didn't seem to work. Turns out it was a DOA pad from the factory. Was replaced a couple weeks ago and works like a charm. Interestingly, the first attempt to get a pad ordered resulted in a Fusion labeled carton with an F-150 pad in it! <chuckle> Warranty, so the total was my favorite - zero! The experiment: In one of the threads somewhere here, someone posted that they used non-Eco mode as they felt Eco didn't gain anything appreciable in the MPG arena. I was a devout Eco-mode user so I thought I'd see what would happen in the two modes. I actually added a third test mode: mixed. I made no adjustments to driving - either style or roads or anything. I do not "hypermile" as some do and sometimes will literally drive it like I stole it. Highway driving is 5-8 MPH over limit in most cases. All MPG numbers are from the gas receipts and not the car computer. Dates for tallies begin May 1 and end as of today. Eco-mode: Eco cruise activated all the time. If added acceleration needed, use the gas pedal. ..... 4 tanks totaling 1670.6 miles; average MPG per tank 43.53 Mixed-mode: Eco cruise mostly BUT turned off when on long uphill areas or needed a bit extra punch getting to speed. ..... 2 tanks - 919.0 miles; average MPG per tank 41.42 Normal-mode: The usual ... Eco is off and not used at all. ..... 4 tanks totaling 1616.1 miles; average MPG 43.98 So one could get about 1/2 mile per gallon by NOT using Eco mode., To me, that makes it nearly a tossup. Mixed mode appears to be a losing proposition. <shrug> By no means is this anything near sanctioned testing but just a drivers curiosity on a remark from one our other owners. Do with it what you will!

My brother has a '13 with 75K miles and has not experienced unexpected repairs.

My favorite line: You guys were the last to touch it and it was fine before that. You guys replaced the seal and now it sucks. Also I never deal over the phone, but in the face. That way you can ask for the Service Manager or Dealership Management. Seriously. Take it back IN PERSON.

If you read carefully, more than a few are duplicates. Interesting, though.

My '17 is same display, but lifetime MPG is readily displayed as part of Fuel History screen in the right-hand display next to speedo (as well as 3 or 4 other places). On fillups, I reset trip meters. Tank to tank MPG figures come off the receipt numbers and are reasonably accurate. Car MPG on trip meters and lifetime are still somewhat off but closing the gap at 14.8K miles.

Run-flats ... while I have considered them I'd like to see the prices come down some. I paid over $800 for the Winter tread I use (17-inch) and I am not up to investing that much again unless it would significantly improve my chances on the road and deliver decent mileage. Do they work suitably on a sidewall blowout? My sons Fiesta has had 2 of them due to kickup of construction material. Knock wood, I've been lucky. Donut weight ... admittedly the donut and assorted parts weigh a lot more than the kit. I think someone noted 30-35 pounds or so. However, right now, I feel a bit better with it there and mileage is mid-40s and gaining each tank - now that Winter is gone. But I also use the OEM Michelin tread (LRR?) for non-Winter driving, too!

My '15 didn't have one nor did the current '17. I used that thread to get the parts as salvagers in my area are few and far between. The ones I did approach wanted nearly as much as new equipment so I went the dealer/TireRack route. When I was getting set to trade, I simply yanked it out, put the original mobility kit in and waited. The mobility kit for the '17 is in the garage ... right next to the OEM sway bar and floor mats! <chuckle>

A bit late to the "game". but look at this thread, please. Invoice part# is what you need from Parts Dept of the dealer. Get the tire tread from TireRack. That's all for NEW stuff. Alternative is go to a junkyard or parts reseller and get all the pieces from a '13+ gas Fusion. You want a 16" compact spare - it will fit in the well where the mobility kit is. Put the kit in the garage and save the spare for the next car when/if you trade! I did the compact spare on my prior '15 HyTi and it is now in the SE. <shrug>

For all of you, please look at this thread right here. It sounds like you are experiencing the same thing. I too have had the feeling something is wrong, but it was me going over a pothole or other similar situation.

In Eco mode the cruise is definitely lacking. Drop Eco mode on long uphill runs or getting up to highway speed and I tell you there is a marked difference. But I'll still stick with my FFH.

UPDATE: Spent time at Goodyear today looking for answers. What we found is this: 1. Depending on source there are at least 4 ways a push-button ignition can be exercised to enter training mode. 2. Ford Fusion models for 2015 and 2017 use sensors on the 315 mhz wavelength. 3. Different brands of sensors (Schrader, Alligator, etc) may use the same frequency but internal electronics may be incompatible with others. 4. Although they worked with the '15 HyTi, the TR sensors may be electronically incompatible with current car (see #3 above as possible reason). Monday at 8 AM I'll be at the dealer getting whatever sensors are on the TR rims replaced with OEM ones that should then pair up to the car without a hitch. If they don't then that would mean the car computer has a problem ... which is one of the least likely reasons we came up with. In all the testing, the tool in use for training could detect the sensor frequency, sensor serial number/code, PSI of the tire in question. Just could not reset the doggone thing. Jeez ... $500 out the door Monday! Oh well.

I have two sets of rims for the car - also did the same on the '15 HyTi I had previously. OEM rims + Winter/snow tires and 17" Verde Regency rims+OEM tread for non-Winter. The Verde rims were from TireRack (TR) in April 2015 - with TPMS sensors installed. Now ... here's a rough outline of the history up to today. Mid-Aug 2016: 2015 HyTi - removed TR rims/OEM tread and mounted OEM rims/tread for trade-in on current car. The TR rims+snow tread were stacked in the garage - inflated to 35 PSI and lying down. Aug 31 '16: Got the current FFH, kept OEM rims/tread on until 10/31/16. Oct 31, '16: Setup TR rims with OEM tread, setup OEM rims with snow tread and mounted OEM rim set.for Winter driving. TR rims/OEM tread were stacked in garage - inflated and lying down. Apr 25, '17: Got the TR rims/OEM tread mounted, OEM rims/snows stacked in garage - inflated and lying down. Now the fun begins. Having had a '12 Fiesta and then a '14 Fiesta with rim sets like this, experience told me that putting on the TR rims and given enough time/miles, the TPMS sensors and car would sync up without needing to be trained. Soooo, I waited for the TPMS warning to go away - Pressure Sensor Monitor Fault. Normally this indicates 1 or more failed sensors. Any way ... after a couple weeks, I went back to Goodyear (installer) and had them run the training cycle as the fault light would not go out and stay out. No luck. Soooo off to the dealer (30 minutes away) to see what they could find. I went thinking I might just have a bad sensor BUT also expected that sensor to only show --- on the TPMS display for the wheel affected. Nope - all 4 showed --- (failure). Long story short - after almost 2 hours fiddling, all 4 sensors fail to train. Yeah - all four. The training tool sees them alright but they simply refuse to train ... no matter what the mechanic does. Replacement estimate is $467 plus tax - parts/labor included. Anyone EVER see a 4-sensor failure like this?

My '15 HyTi was that way and sad to say the '17 models are no different. Grabby brakes when damp/wet seems to be a Fusion Hybrid "feature".

Welcome! I hope you'll take some time and simply sit in the car (running) and go through all the screens. Somewhere in the sections I also put up a thread that gave my impressions of the '17 as compared to a '15. Also in there are some things I was learning along the way ... like the auto high beams, adaptive cruise stop/go, etc. As was stated before ... ask questions too! Someone in here knows the answer or where to find it. Welcome again!

Tower brace - no; sway bar - yup. Sway bar has endlinks that are removed during installation and attached to the Steeda unit. The main OEM bar can be stored in the garage, then reinstalled for OEM restoration prior to sale or trade of the auto. As noted tower brace replaces nothing ... in fact a bolt or two for the factory struts are used to hold it in place. This shot is a closeup of the right side installation of the brace and hood strut from the HyTi I had previously. Should give you an idea how it mounts.

The Steeda installations were done by my local Goodyear shop. The mechanic that did it was new t the products and had no real issues. Steeda supplies very good instructions with pictures.

Steda tower brace and hood struts can be installed in the driveway. The sway bar requires a rack ... and you do use the ends of the OEM unit with the steeda bar. Figure 30 minutes shop time for ONL:Y the sway bar ... 1 hour is you want to be generous. @mwr - the bushongs on the Steeda sway bar do have zerk fittings and do need to be greased. When installed (on '15 HyTi) - greased it up; 3k miles post-install = checked. Dismounted unit and reinstalled OEM Aug '16. Reinstalled into current car Sept '16 and checked. No grease needed in 30K miles or more.

You are correct. You can call them to double-check but the gas version is same. I initially put the tower brace, hood struts and sway bar on a '15 HyTi and when I traded it I removed them - restored OEM sway bar. They were drop fit into the '17 with no issues. Hell, I even have the OEM mobility kit that my compact spare replaced! Just in case I need to restore to OEM specs. <chuckle>

Summer of '65 a friend and I took a bicycle trip from the Rochester, NY area to Niagara Falls. His Dad was our parental contact. We spent a couple days in Canada then came back and returned toward home using NY Rte 31 which was a truck route. Yup - we drafted a semi! For about 10 miles we were inside that cone of suction and tooting along at 60 or so! What a rush! Looking back at that now, I would kick my kids butt all over if he tried it! :)

At most I add 3 PSI ... because if you look closely at a properly inflated tire (Fiesta or FFH in my case), there is a slight cupping so that the center rib is actually not wearing as much as surrounding material. This added 3 PSI offsets that for a flatter patch. HOWEVER ... 50 PSI is not good, safe or in any way something anyone without a death wish should do.

About every 6 months I swap rims and tires to whatever set is needed. At that time, the tires that are going on are rotated from last position (they use grease pen to mark them) AND I get an alignment. Total cost - zero. Gotta love Goodyear deals.

The original post in this thread has the part numbers for OEM pieces to purchase if you are so inclined. Invoice part # is what the parts department would need. With tread purchase from TireRack you are talking about $500 or so. This will be a 16" compact spare. The thread offers up other ideas for parts location ... eBay included. If you use a salvage yard make sure you get the assembly items from a 13+ gas model Fusion. Don't forget the plastic thing that holds all the stuff (box assembly in the original list). I did the retail thing when I got my '15 HyTi, but the donut swapped into the current FFH without a hitch.

On my '17 the odometer is displayed at the bottom of the left screen. Seems to me it should be there on a '16 - I recall it was there on my prior HyTi. I simply reset the trip meters each fill, using those miles and the gas receipt gallons & cost to do the calcs. Did not realize the trip s rollover at all ... never ran them that high!

Are these numbers calculated from the receipt information or trip meter/car comp? The trip and car comps are off as much as 3 MPG from receipts many times. I filled up today for the closest - 4/10 MPG difference between receipt and comp. Fill method I use: fill until shutoff, pause for slow count of 5 then about 1/4 open on the pump until shutoff. Repeat pause and 1/4 open one more time. No overflow occurs but also does not overfill.

Heck, I felt sort of shafted when I realized the FFH trunk was about the same size as a Fiesta sedan has. A car 2/3 the size if the FFH and 900 pounds or so lighter has same trunk space. <shakes head>