gkinla

The first two weeks of ownership I got a couple of door dings. When my Consultant at Autoland was writing up my sale she mentioned a PDR (paintless dent removal) policy, I hesitated, then said, oh what the hell and bought it. It paid for it self the first month. The dings are gone like they were never there.

Here are simple instructions for adding wallpaper to MFT. The My Ford Touch wallpapers can be gif, jpg, png, and bmp with a maximum file size of 1.5MB. Wallpaper Dimensions are 800px x 384px. 1. Load the wallpaper images on a USB Drive. 2. Insert the USB Device into the USB port in the central console (under the armrest) 3. Select the Settings Options 4. Select Display Options 5. Select Edit Wallpaper 6. Select "Add" and then from your USB device select what images you would like to import. This will just copy the images from your USB drive into the MFT system 7. Once the files have been uploaded, press the back arrow and then highlight the image you want and select Save. 8. Select the Home button and you should see your image now appear!

It's a big yes from me!!!!!

What's with the drivers climate right hand screen. With an arrow click will you get a passenger screen? I see it's a HiTi is this some enhancement the SE doesn't have? I do have the MFT.

Thanks for posting the pictures of the layouts. I had a small collection of American Flyer trains many years ago. I still like to look at the American Flyer trains for sale on ebay...wishing I still had my small collection. I liked the pictures of number 261, a big 4-8-4 Loco and Tender.

Isn't it amazing you have to push one for English, then you get transferred to a person you can't understand anyway.

I just had a thought about the new HiTi's without the aluminum pedals. There is only about $60 in dealer parts cost and less than one hour labor to replace the pedals, so have the sale contingent on having the dealer replace the pedals before placing an order. To make a sale I bet the sales person would jump on this, just a thought.

The latest picture of my 2013 SE FFH....HiTi wannabe. I had my dealer change the gas pedal today and it was probably a good thing. My Service Advisor came running out saying that the car wouldn't move with the TiHi pedal installed. There were many error codes on the display. If I was home alone doing this I would have panicked. There was some mention that this pedal might be for a Titanium Fusion EcoBoost and wasn't compatible with the FFH. I did check in the lot and found two HiTi's without the aluminum pedals and one Ti EcoBoost with the aluminum pedals. Then I remembered reading somewhere the 2013 HiTi's wouldn't have the pedals any longer. I rechecked the P/N and it was the same as Hybrid47 posted, that's where I got the P/N from originally. The SA and I were standing at his kiosk discussing replacing the new pedal with the old SE pedal when the mechanic drove up saying that all the error codes cleared. I drove the car around the lot and on the street for a while making sure it was okay. I drove the car home without incident...its been out several times since and everything is okay. I think what happened is when the car was booting up it found a new part and panicked momentarily, checked it out, found it was okay then reset the error codes. What's good about this pedal, besides looking good, is the pad is replaceable, not so with the SE pedal. These new cars are far to dependent on computers for operation.

I was at my dealer today for an oil change. I downloaded the TSB 13-5-24 to my iPad and showed it to my Service Advisor. He looked it up and ordered parts for the "FIX". Said the parts were on back order, delivery date,?. Soon I hope.

Not to belabor the point, here are pictures of the parking pawl and parking pawl notch, the pictures are for illistration only. I can only surmise that the 2013 FFH uses the same technology. When just using the Park function only, this is what holds the car from moving. And when the car is still moving and Park, not the parking brake is engaged this is what stops the car and keeps it from moving. That's why you see the car rocking back and forth when "some soccer mom barreling into a Wal-Mart parking space and shifting into Park" occurs. The pawl is not much bigger than your thumb and the notch is smaller than your thumb nail. This is all that holds a 3500 lb car from moving. Wear in the drum and the hammer will cause the pawl to slip, or the hammer will break and then the car is free wheeling. Knowing this, I always set the parking brake when leaving the car, on flat surfaces or hills.

I also owned a 2010 FFH and didn't have any issues with the 12 Volt battery, as a matter of fact I didn't have any issues at all with my 2010 FFH, 3 years, 65,000 miles and the only time it was in the shop was for an oil change. It was one of best cars I ever owned and one of the main reasons I went to the 2013 FFH, besides just wanting one, she's a looker and head turner.

I had my battery replaced on April 11th. Before that the battery saver appeared every time I shut the engine off or put the key in accessory. I took the car in, the SA said they reset the BS system and the problem went away for a week. After the problem reappeared, I called my Service Advisor an asked him to research the problem. He called me a week later me told me to bring the car in to replace the 12 V battery. The FFH mechanic said that Ford got a batch of bad battery's that wouldn't hold a charge. No problems since. My FFH was built late February. I do believe that this was done before TSB 13-5-1 was issued.

I just put on the front mud flaps. It's an easy job...but do yourself a favor and buy some extra push pins to replace the ones removed. No matter how careful you remove them they really are one time use only. The directions say to reuse but they break coming out. I'll be going to Ford tomorrow to get some new push pins. See one of the posts above to see pictures of the pins/studs I'm talking about.

I have the same issue with my iPhone 5 on my 2013 FFH with MFT. Then again I had the same issues with my 2010 FFH with MFT both with a iPhone 4 and with the iPhone 5. I think it's a iPhone X issue.

I like the reference to "splurge a little". My plan in life, is to have the last check I write...bounce.

I finished my spare tire project today. The wheel fits in the wheel well without any fuss. I put some plastic sheet in the inverted tire and placed the Mobility Kit in the center. The plastic sheeting is for wet muddy roads if needed and keeps the MK centered and protected. The box I've been moving from house to house for 25 years, wondering what to do with it. It came to me one night to try and see if the jack will fit in the box. It fits with 1/2 inch to spare with the jack fully closed. It also is a good size for some small hand tools. I put some Velcro hooks on the bottom in the corners, I've driven around for several days and the box hasn't moved...it's easy to remove the box to access the jack. I used the part numbers that GrySql posted, including the jack, thanks GrySql for working out the details and making that part easy. I got the tire on eBay for $49.95 delivered, the jack for $45.00 also on eBay delivered. The tire is several years old, it was never mounted and was stored indoors in a warm storeroom. I scrubbed the tire with 409 and coated it with Aerospace 303, I hope to never need it...it's there for comfort. This will be used in the event of a catastrophic tire failure. The reason for keeping the MK it is for slow leaks which will allow me to get to a repair shop, I'll never use the goop sealer.

keybman, You're right in not asking for repairs until something is worked out. I don't think it's dangerous, just annoying. I do however think you should have the dealer document this condition. When the work was done on my FFH they were throwing things at the problem hoping something would stick.

With my 2013 FFH I started hearing/noticing the clicking noise around 1200 miles. Took the car in, everyone that listened, heard the clicking noise from both axles in the service bay as the car was moved slowly forward and then braking. The mechanic re-torqued the spindles, no change. Called the hot line and they suggested packing the half shaft splines with heavy grease the noise went away. I drove for a week and the clicking noise came back. The dealer ordered, then replaced the half shafts. The clicking noise stopped. I thought the problem was fixed, then the clicking noise started again at about 1200 miles after the repair, the same miles as the first time. I just came back from driving on a quiet street with the windows down, slowly accelerating forward and braking. It's definitely coming from the right front wheel area, the left seems quiet for now.

Gl419, Deja Vu...after tightening everything then packing the half shafts with grease on my 2013 FFH the noise came back after one week. Brought the 2013 back, the dealer ordered half shafts and replaced them. The noise went away for approx 1200 miles then returned. This was the same miles that I first started hearing/noticing the clicking noise. I think you're right about the tolerance stack up.

Every breath you and your passengers exhale is at 100% relative humidity. When you have air in recirculation mode at all times and the A/C on it will cause the evaporator coil to ice up and the cooling efficiency will deminish. This frozen water will also collect any particles, mold, pollen, etc. and keep them frozen until the system is shut off. When you come back to the car you will usually see a puddle of water under the car. This is the excess water that has unfrozen and dripped out of the collection pan, this also can happen during extreme humid days, even in pass through mode. In pass through mode the air is always filtered, I don't know if this is true in recirc mode on this Fusion. Now when you restart the car the system will probably have a slug of stuff intering the car and this might make your allergies worse, unless all the air is filtered in recirc. Some cars have a sewer smell when you first turn the A/C on, this I understand is from keeping the A/C in recurlation mode and never letting the system to dry out, mold forms and gives off this rotten odor.

The parking brake has a drive away feature, when parked on a hill at a stop light, set the parking brake and when ready just step on the gas and the brake will release and drive away. Works on a flat surface too, when pulling away from the curb. The rest you will get used to as I had some of the same questions/issues also. Why the parking brake won't release when the applying the foot brake is a good question

I worked in Ford Parts in the mid 60's, you are correct in saying the brakes were Falcon...the whole front end was Falcon. The specific Mustang parts prefix was C5ZZ and the Falcon parts were prefixed with C5DZ. We were surprised when front end parts were needed and they were Falcon parts. We also speculated that the frame was Falcon and just the body was Mustang. It's been a long time since thought about this, yikes!

Here is something that is not in our owners manual, and has to do with engine heating up faster. I was wondering why on this 2013 FFH, I was getting cabin heat much faster than my 2010 FFH, I mean noticeably faster. I looked it up. I don't remember where I got this. This is what I remembered. Energy Recapture Exhaust Manifold • Helps warm up the engine quicker by circulating engine coolant through the exhaust manifold – Helps the engine warm up faster than the previous Fusion Hybrid system with a conventional manifold • Uses one inlet and one outlet tube that allows engine coolant to flow in and out, heating the coolant that runs through the hot exhaust manifold, allowing the engine to shut down and the vehicle to enter hybrid mode faster • Heating the coolant using the exhaust manifold decreases the length of time the engine has to run – The quicker the engine shuts off, the less fuel is wasted, helping improve fuel economy

Ford sent me samples of Leather Master cleaner and conditioner. My Dune driver seat had taken on a blue hue from wearing jeans. I used the cleaner and it removed the blue immediately. The conditioner treated the seats without leaving the seats greasy. I looked up the cost and the price nearly made me choke. On ebay you can buy these kits for less than $20, some times delivered. Make sure it's for leather not Nubuck.

What I've read about the Active Noise Control is that it only works in the 1000 to 1500 rpm range. It cancels out low freuency vibration produced by the engine at low rpms at idle or in drive. Microphones in the headliner detect and measure the amplitude and phase of the engine noise sound waves. This info is sent to the active noise control cancellation module. This module takes into account the engine rpm to calculate the target frequency that needs to be canceled. This only targets the engine noise that needs to be eliminated and is sent through the radio speakers in a equal but opposit pulse that sums up to zero...cancelling the unwanted noise. If this was true noise cancellaton for all frequencies you wouldn't hear your passenger speak, fire or police sirens or possibly that damndable front axle clicking noise.