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I don't have this feature but if I had to guess, each tire's TPMS is pre-programmed to its location eg. LR for Left Rear. Since you moved the tire from the left rear to the left front, the car does not know that. It's displaying the air pressure from the left rear tire, thinking it's still in its original location.

I know this is an old post, so just sharing this in case someone else more current stumbles across it looking for key/fob replacement alternatives. Our son just got a 2014 FFH that only came with 1 key fob. Dealership quoted him $275 for key (not sure that included programing or not). Saw advice for buying elsewhere and getting it cut and programmed at a locksmith. Got this 2 key fob set off Amazon for $33 out the door: 2013-2016 FFH Key Fob Local locksmith charges $125 to cut and program both keys. They mentioned IF we had the original 2 keys we could program ourselves very simply in the cars ignition through a small multi step procedure, but since he is down to 1 key, we’d need a tool we don’t have. Just leaving this link and info here to help others down the road. Nearly half what the dealership was going to charge for 1 spare, and he will now have 2 spares.

Damn! Shoulda checked YouTube, huh? The panel with the Ford logo on it is the one I was questioning. My screwdriver was too small, tho. And I had no clue on the battery number. Thanks a ton!

Did it run out of oil? Looks like a lot of metal missing. Before attempting a repair, are you sure you can find all the broken metal that may have circulated into the rotors, magnets, oil passages, cooler? What does the filter look like? Do you need #83 and #84? The basic part number to ask for is: 83 7D234 Sun gear thrust bearing 84 7A348 Sun gear

Last week I bought a 2014 Ford Fusion Hybrid from the State of Colorado. With 124,700 miles. I suspect based on observation of the rotors they have not replaced the brake pads or rotors. There is little to no lip but the rotor has ridges perhaps from small rocks or sand. I will be doing a 4 wheel brake job with new rotors and pads in a couple of weeks. i do have the workshop manual and will follow the replacememt instructions there. I will disconnect the 12v battery before starting work, any other advice?

@meyersnole can you check on the energi forum> i see error EX6 when I try to PM on there and can not post to new or old threads

I replaced my 2013 transmission that had the known bearing issue from the 2013-2015 models around the same mileage point (140,000) in 2020. I sourced a low mileage 2016+ transmission from a C-Max or Fusion Hybrid (NOT Energi) and had a shop replace it, with my assistance. Cost around $3000 total. I have 190,000 miles on mine now, value of my car is likely closer to $4000 now. I don’t treat mine as well as others but it gets all the required maintenance and doesn’t show signs of stopping. Fuel mileage is suffering due to battery age but it’s still over 37mpg (10-15% loss) and even then the engine is pretty efficient on its own compared to late model sedans. Backup camera has died. Trim is starting to show its age. If you plan on driving it until it stops working then even a $7000 bill seems more reasonable than a newer vehicle and you can get a good amount more years out of it.

Hello, New here. Wanted to share my recent experience regarding a troublesome problem in hopes that it might benefit someone else. Apology in advance for the dumb long post... For several months on and off I have been trying to help my older neighbor with a recurring engine stall problem on his FFH. I don't own a FFH myself (forgive me) but have great interest in hybrid and EV autos and just wanted to share this with the community for the edification of anyone with a similar problem...long story short: a new MECS pump saved the day. 2011 FFH 2.5L w/ 232k miles Problem: engine shuts down upon increased load/oncoming freeway ramp/sudden hi speed demand/going uphill fast. Wrench light, warning triangle shows. Sometimes above warnings show during above conditions but engine does not stall (rare). Only occurs at operating temp. Codes: P2418 (evap). I erroneously focused on the P2418 after hearing from a Ford tech that evap purge/vent valve failures can cause a lean fuel condition, leading to stalling. While this may be true, it was the wrong track in my case. I was unaware of the MECS (motor electronics cooling system) pump being a cause of many problems with the FFH as well as the Ford Escape hybrids of the same era (or close to). Allegedly it caused the same stall condition in the Escapes. After changing evap purge and vent valves to no avail, and my neighbor suggesting a coolant flush just for maintenance sake, I flushed and replaced the ICE coolant first. I told him to get the Motorcraft Specialty Green VC-5 FIR No. 164315 (concentrate) which we used instead of an Oreilly equivalent which he suggested, but I did not want to use... The old coolant was a darker green and looked worn out, and when compared to the new luminous bright green coolant, it gave me the idea that the old was greatly out of date. Maybe original? The difference was so evident, I was convinced this would improve something. I had been researching the subject of coolant in this car and the MECS in particular, so I bought a German Bosch 0392023019 MECS pump online and installed it, flushing and replacing the old coolant in the converter and the old aftermarket MECS pump (Cooper Standard). It was only at this point in time did I realize I had never before heard the hum of the MECS pump upon turning the key. And of course, the old pump tested bad. Breathtaking ignorance, I know. What confused me is that there were never any MECS related codes present, which my research made me think should have appeared. I remembered reading posts from others that said they had some sort of coolant codes come up...my cue should have been that his complaint was "only when the engine is warm". No coolant related codes ever appeared. I don't have FORscan so maybe something would have appeared using it. The more I read about this the more I realize how common of a problem this has been...so perhaps this post is nothing more than old news. Worst time of the job was getting the 12mm coolant bleed bolt back in, which was in a different location than my repair guidance gave. Basically it's under the brake fluid reservoir, on the top center of the converter, just under the electrical plugs going into the converter. It's a pain to access. The level of coolant in the reservoir did not drop until this bolt was removed, even with the hoses and pump disconnected below. Pictures for that included for anyone who's interested. I don't remember how much coolant it took but didn't seem to be as much as it called for...I mixed it in a 1/2 gallon jug and added it in smaller amounts that way, a bit on the strong side, to account for any distilled water still in the system after I flushed it. I hope this helps. If I gave any incorrect info, someone please advise. Now, if someone could advise on this P2418 code... Thank you all DSK

Looks like it's this: https://www.oemfordpart.com/oem-parts/ford-air-deflector-hs7z8310f?c=bD01OCZuPUR5bmFtaWMgU0VPIFBhZ2U%3D

The range is based on historical data, so if they reset something, it loses that data. Are you ACTUALLY only getting 400km a tank, or is it just the display? If just the display, then don't worry, it will take a tank or two to recalculate.

All you ever wanted to know ... right here: https://fordfusionhybridforum.com/topic/8437-all-from-dealer-method-for-obtaining-spare-tire-with-research-notes-and-installation-tips/ I bought the new stuff with my '15 FFH and it all fit perfectly. They changed the well some for '20 (and I assume '19) which makes it slightly problematic fitting the tire in due to the HVB case bolt changes they made. There's one that stops the insertion of the spare itself. For a lot less expensive method, go to a salvage yard and see if you can get all the pieces from a 2013+ ICE Fusion. That's mentioned in the thread as well.

Connecting rod failure? I've never seen one happen on a Fusion Hybrid. Very fortunate to have that warranty.

Yes, the Douglas touring tires I have, cost half the price, are quieter, have more grip, and at its current rate break even in the amount of miles I'm getting out of them (about 50k miles).

They say to generally not store the ev battery at full charge when storing for longer than a few weeks. Ideally your hveb should be about 50% charge. Don't worry about it failing. So long the 12v battery works, it can jump start the engine which will start the charging process. Ideally you will want to disconnect the positive terminal on the 12v battery, (and keep the trunk open, if you want easy access to the 12v). I think the 12v only needs to be charged one day a month or so. Without the positive terminal connected, it won't lose much charge over time.

Yup ... that's the button! It should display a green "Eco" below and slightly right of the speedometer. If you are pressing it with no change, dealer is the way to go.

You have to understand that the TPMS sensors only send out a ping of data once every 2 minutes or so (unless there's a dramatic change in pressure, then it sends out immediately). So no surprise it didn't react right away, especially if you're carrying the wheel with the 4th sensor in the car. I'm not quite sure how it triangulates where each sensor is , but I know it takes quite a few of the 2 minutes cycles for it to be sure that you've actually rotated your tires.

What are the "big milestones"? Oil, air filters, coolant change, even spark plugs are all things that can be handled by anybody. I don't see any other regular maintenance that requires a dealer.

I'm with Waldo on this. The big milestones are dealer, but things like oil, etc I take to my mechanic.

There is no regular maintenance required on the Fusion Hybrid that any good mechanic can't do. You have to change the coolant for the hybrid system separatly than the regular coolant, but in the end, it's still just changing coolant. I did it myself in my garage.

I, too, have a 2015 SE Hybrid. I’ve chosen to do the scheduled major maintenance milestones at the dealership for the reasons you listed in your next to last paragraph. Oil changes, tire rotation and the like are done by local mechanics. BTW, isn’t this the greatest car you’ve had in a long time? Ours has been absolutely trouble free from Day 1.

The gas engine for this car is almost like any other gas engine so you should be able to service it at a local mechanic. I changed the oil myself and it was the same as other cars that I've owned. Your local mechanic should have access to the Ford factory service manuals and data if needed.

Cost cutting. None of the 2019 models have glove compartment lights anymore, together with less USB ports, and no line in anymore.

Once in a while it won't harm much. Best thing you can do, after the water subsides, is to spray the undercarriage with a garden hose.

They have a special on it. $136 for the battery. Probably many people return it, because they don't know regular 14.4V car alternator chargers shut off the BMS on the battery. (Hence the diodes, but you can also solder some resistors in parallel with the charge wire). I bought mine nearly 2 years ago. Just verify if the size is still similar to the stock battery. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BGRZP5Q6

Depends on where you live. Salted roads are the worst for anything on the undercarriage.

Thanks. It's always garaged. I hand wash it and then polish it twice a year too

Yes sir

130k Miles, and still on the stock pads. Still over 30% left on them.

buy titanium

I checked the link and pictures. Almost looks like it has flood damage by all the interior and underhood dirt. Check engine light is on. Why would you want to buy this and sink an unknown amount of money into it?? I personally would not take it even if it was free. Good luck.

Whether that was a good price or not depends on how much it will cost to repair. Obviously the insurance company (State Farm) thought it would cost more to repair than the car was worth. So they totaled it and sold it at auction with a salvage title.

Although I don't have that 2015 now, I can say that it was one of the earliest 2015 FFHs. I bought it new in late October 2014.

I don't have answers to your specific questions, but since no one else has replied I thought I would. Which is to say that I bought a 2015 FFH SE new and then six months ago (after my insurance company totaled my 2015), bought a used 2017 FFH SE. 100K miles on the 2015 and 60K miles on the 2017.Almost no problems (none serious) with the 2015 and none at all with the 2017. Both with the luxury package (leather seats) and tech package (large center screen).

I have no experience with this but hopefully it will be garaged. I found this blog: https://www.carpro.com/blog/how-to-care-for-your-ev-or-hybrid-when-not-in-regular-use Hope it helps!

In my experience of the whole situation, I started out just for funsies asking the dealership for a quote on replacement. They came back with over $5000 just for the freaking battery! Not including any labor. I purchased a high voltage hybrid battery for my 2017 Fusion from Ebay at a cost of around $2000. This included price of the battery, plus freight, plus core. Doner vehicle was a 2019 with around 35,000 miles on it. (Very important to know the miles the battery has on it if purchasing used.) Most importantly if you are any kind of mechanically inclined you can do a battery swap in around 3 hours yourself. It helps if you do a little internet searching and download the official Ford hybrid battery removal PDF. If you are careful and go step by step, your car will run like its brand new. In addendum, no relearn process is required. Its as easy as changing a few AA's. Save yourself thousands, its a process anyone can do. 2017-Fusion-MKZ-HEV-Battery-Removal-Guide-Final.pdf

I added the second battery for the fact the 12v battery is pretty small. I have not replaced my original battery yet and it is a 2014. I suspect soon, but zero problems with my setup. After all this time I still love the sound in my car.

The good folks here on this forum, like you, are motivated to purchase high mileage vehicles. Many of us then drive them in a manner (sometimes in an OCD manner) to obtain the best possible MPG often at the expense of creature comforts and other motorists on the road. The overwhelming majority of U.S. car buyers are not at all interested in maximizing MPG the way many members on this forum are. SUV buyers want a vehicle that is flexible, roomy, tows/hauls well and is reasonably efficient. Many SUVs and crossovers do a very good job of meeting those requirements. Here is a good example of this: http://fordfusionhybridforum.com/topic/12530-2013-ford-fusion-hybrid-reliability/?p=108519 I like Ford. I want Ford to survive. I want Ford to be profitable. To do that Ford must build profitable vehicles that appeal to the masses.

Some of my neighbors have an SUV and a truck, some have two SUVs and some have sedans mixed in. Take a close look at the parking lots as I mentioned and the trend is obvious. SUV and truck sales far exceed sedan sales. People like SUVs because of their utility. If I was limited to only one vehicle it would likely be an SUV because they are far more versatile than a sedan. Much better in the snow, hauls bulky items better, tows trailers better, and far easier entry/exit. The newest cross overs ride nicely and the MPG is improving. I like sedans, but I get why people love SUVs and are buying them. Ford is doing the right thing for Ford and that is exactly what they should be doing if they want to remain in business.

I would like to add one more method that can be used for obtaining a spare tire for FFHs. The method I used is one of the most convenient methods overall, though one of the most expensive since this method uses all-new, mostly all-Ford parts, which were all purchased directly from my local Ford dealer, including the spare tire itself. The cost of this method should be in the $500-$600+ range, depending on the size and brand of tire chosen and on the local sales tax rate. Similar methods were posted previously by Mufasha, and SamJ20112, but there were not nearly enough details about the parts and part numbers as I would have liked to have seen. So, I wanted to share my experience so it might help any others that would like to pursue this same dealership method. And in response to the one question/concern I know many of you will want to mention, and that is why did I not choose to buy the parts through online vendors that would have been much cheaper. And that is because I wanted the dealer to be involved as much as possible since my FFH is brand new, and I wanted the most convenient avenue to return parts if I ended up ordering the wrong parts or if the parts didn't fit correctly. My end goal was to duplicate the gas Fusion spare tire setup as closely as possible, while trying to use the largest spare tire size that would be feasible. So, the first thing I did was go to my dealer and look in the trunk of a gas Fusion to see what parts I would need to modify my FFH accordingly. And then I went to http://www.fordparts.com to look up the part numbers of the spare tire parts for the gas Fusion that I would need to duplicate exactly how the spare tire is installed in the gas Fusions. At fordparts.com, I selected Search by "Model", and then selected "2014", "Ford", and "Fusion". I then did a "Keyword" search for "wheel" to find all of the possible parts I might need. The key to quickly finding the parts and prices after that is to click on the part drawing (sometimes the images take a while to load) immediately to the left of the part description that says "Wheel; With 18" Wheels ; With 16" Mini Steel Spare Wheel; Wheel Assy - Spare" (hint: select "75" in the "Show per page:" box and then use the page search feature in your browser to search for "steel spare") and also click on the drawing beside "Jack Handle and Wheel Nut Wrench; Less Tire Repair Service Kit". So here is the list of the parts I ordered from my dealer. Part fordparts.com part# Invoice part# ------ ------------------- ------------- wheel 1007B/1007F CV6Z-1015-B box assy 17009 DS7Z-9913546-A jack 17080 DS7Z-17080-A lugwrench 17035/17032 CP9Z-17032-A tire --- 125/90R16 For the tire itself, I wanted to try to get as close of a fit as possible to my 18" tires, but which would still fit within the wheel well in the trunk of my FFH. I didn't specify any size to the dealer, just to see what size they would come up with. Later on, the parts guy called back to see what size tires were on my car, and I told him they were 235/45-18 tires. It turns out that the parts counter guy knew basically nothing about spare tire sizes, and the tire shop that he contacted knew nothing about the size of the wheel well in the FFH trunk, so they came back with the most obvious spare tire size, 145/90-R16, since that would be almost the exact same diameter as my tires. But not only would that size most likely not fit in the wheel well based on the photos and feedback from Grysql, but there was a back-order wait of 90 days for that size, and the price would be an astronomical $260. So I asked the parts guy at the dealer to see if there were any other sizes available that would be available sooner, and at a more reasonable price. Later on, I decided that since the spare tires that come with the gas Fusions are 125/80-16, that I should probably limit the width of the tires to the same 125 to ensure it would fit properly since I would be using the same styrofoam tire and jack mount piece that comes in the gas Fusions. So I called the parts guy at the dealer back and asked him to check on the 125/90 and the 125/80 sizes to help limit their search criteria. So the tire shop was able to find a 125/90-R16 spare tire that was available fairly quickly (5-10 days) and at a semi-reasonable price ($140 + $18 shipping). The temporary spare tire that the dealer acquired from the tire shop was the Continental CST17. Comparison of Spare Tire …And to Gas_Fusion-only Size to Hybrid Tires Sizes (for completeness) 16" ------------------------ ---------------------------------- Spare 17" Tire 18" Tire 19" Tire 17" Tire 16" Tire Sizes 225/50VR17 235/45VR18 235/40VR19 235/50HR17 215/60HR16 ------- ---------- ---------- ---------- ---------- ------------ 145/90 +0.42 -0.05 -0.12 +0.03 +0.12 155/80 -0.10 -0.57 -0.64 -0.49 -0.40 135/90 -0.29 -0.76 -0.83 -0.68 -0.59 145/80 -0.73 -1.20 -1.27 -1.12 -1.03 125/90 -1.00 -1.47 -1.54 -1.39 -1.30 135/80 -1.36 -1.83 -1.90 -1.75 -1.66 125/85 -1.49 -1.96 -2.03 -1.88 -1.79 125/80 -1.99 -2.46 -2.53 -2.38 -2.29 135/70 -2.42 -2.89 -2.96 -2.81 -2.72 Disclaimer: Some of the spare sizes listed above may not be available or even produced at all. Since I wanted to know how much weight I was adding, I next weighed the whole setup, including wheel, tire, jack, lug wrench, and box, and it came out to a little less than 15 kg...uh...I mean a little less than 33 pounds. But the decrease in gas mileage is worth the peace of mind I now have, knowing I can recover from a gnarly flat as quickly and stress-free as possible. Now for the installation of all of the parts, I removed the old styrofoam box out of the wheel well, by first removing the hold-down bolt, and then by pressing the lip of the trunk rear plastic panel, near the bumper, inwards toward myself, and then lifting the edge of the box closest to me up, and then I lifted the HVB cover ever so slightly to allow me to lift the farthest edge of the old styrofoam box out, and then completely out of the trunk. Here are some photos of the before box, with some showing the old existing hold-down bolt, in the center: Luckily, the hold-down bolt in the Fusion Hybrid is identical to the one used to hold the spare tires down in the gas Fusions, and so the existing bolt can be reused to hold down the new spare tire and the new underlying styrofoam box. Here are some photos of the hold-down bracket, that the new box assembly will sit on, and to which the hold-down bolt attaches. And here are some photos showing how the jack and the lug wrench fit into the box. So after I placed the wrench and the jack in the styrofoam box and placed it all onto the mounting bracket that is welded in the bottom center of the wheel well, I found there was only 3" or so of gap between the HVB cover and the styrofoam box, as can be seen in the photo below. Even after lifting the HVB cover up a few inches, the HVB itself was still in the way of being able to slide the tire between the styrofoam box and the HVB. So my solution was to place the tire/wheel into the empty well first, then lift the side of the tire closest to the bumper, and then slide the styrofoam box underneath it onto the mounting bracket in the bottom. Then I was able to lay the tire back down over the box and snug it all down with the hold-down bolt. I'm very glad I didn't go with any bigger of a spare tire, as this size (125/90-R16) was hard enough to get installed using the styrofoam box that comes with the gas Fusions. Here is a photo showing it installed, and another one showing how much clearance there is between the tire and the wheel well sides. So now I am very happy since I have a decent size spare tire (125/90-R16) that fits nicely with all of the stock gas Fusion spare tire parts, tucked nice and neat in the wheel well. After the installation was completed, the spare tire carpeted cover seems to be raised about 1/8"-1/4" from what it was before, but it is not noticeable at all. :) As others have done, I opted to keep the TMK, but since there was no room for it in the wheel well using this "stock" method, I just placed it, along with the box of trio of triangle reflectors, in the open trunk space, for use as a compressor if ever need it for a slow leak, or heaven forbid, a pair of simultaneous flats. Thanks to GrySql and all others for reminding me why a spare tire is a necessity for my peace of mind, and for providing the starting info I needed to do this spare upgrade installation successfully!

To back up GrySql's post, this seems like a good place to post a photo I took comparing the diameter of my stock tire and 2 spares. I bought Altima and Fusion spares, and put the Altima tire on the Fusion rim. From right to left (before dismounting the tires from the rims): FFH Ti Stock, Goodyear Eagle LS2: 235/45-R18 Altima Spare, Continental: T135/90-R16 (1 inch smaller in diameter than stock) Fusion Spare, Maxxis: T125/80-R16 (2.75 inch smaller in diameter than stock) Edited to add the tire manufacturers.

Remember what I said above about hurricanes? Well Helene got me, car is totaled. Salt water got up inside and fried lots of little things. WHen I opened the door it smelled like melted insulation and electronics were wacky. Couldn’t figure out how to get it into Neutral for the tow truck and the guy just dragged it up onto the flatbed. It was a good car, will miss it. Since they haven’t made any since 2020, I’ll probably be getting a 2-3 tear old Camry Hybrid now.