storksb Report post Posted February 25, 2013 I have never understood this 3000 mile oil change interval that persists here in the States. I drive cars in Europe for 15 years and the shortest oil change interval 20years ago was 7500 miles. I'll be going the full 10000 on my Fusion unless the computer tells me otherwise. 2 HenryVIII and BoatDrinksQ5 reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GrySql Report post Posted February 26, 2013 Had the car's first oil change today at 4011 miles on the odometer.The ICE has about 3k miles, the other being EV.The oil level on the dipstick was down about 1/4 from the 'full' level. A friend's shop did the work and they let me watch and walk under the car while it was on the hoist.I printed out jeff_h's oil change guide from the original post just to follow along as they did the work. Thanks Jeff!This was my tech's second '13 FFH so he was up on the procedures.Besides the Torx screws my car has two additional 'clips' on the outboard front sides of the panel, removed by a screwdriver slipped under them. I was glad that I had the oil changed.While the mod one eyeball is not an official test method the oil looked just a trifle dirty to me, compared to fresh oil.I know they run these engines before installing them in the cars but I don't think an old time 'break-in' oil change can hurt.I used to change the oil at 500 and 1000 miles on a new car, so this is late for me. For me, who has owned rear wheel drive vehicles for the last 25 years, it was interesting to look at.One thing I noticed was the single exhaust pipe w/Cat running down the center line of the car. The area under the cabin is well shielded from heat by a layer of AL heat matting, no hot floorboards in this car.The suspension looks robust and the underside is streamlined for airflow.I re-set the Oil Life to 100% using the left display when we were done.I can stop worrying about it for a long while now. I did have the shop note the type of oil and filter I provided on the job receipt, in case Ford wants to know at some later date. 1 B25Nut reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeff_h Report post Posted February 26, 2013 I printed out jeff_h's oil change guide from the original post just to follow along as they did the work. Thanks Jeff!This was my tech's second '13 FFH so he was up on the procedures.Besides the Torx screws my car has two additional 'clips' on the outboard front sides of the panel, removed by a screwdriver slipped under them. Yeah I also had the two plastic clips on mine, and after messing with them with the screwdriver for 1-2 minutes trying to get them loose figured what the heck are these needed for when there are almost a dozen torx screws holding this thing up, figured they were clips used in assembly to quickly put the shield in place and then install the screws. So after those couple minutes one of the clips came right off and the other would not come off so I just busted the clip off, said no way I'm gonna mess with these stinkin' things every time. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
markdavidsmith Report post Posted April 9, 2013 One note if you are doing your own oil changes: Once you take the underside cover off to access the filter and draing plug, DO NOT drive the car before putting the cover back in place. The rear screws on the cover also hold on the front part of an aluminum shield around the catalytic converter, and if you drive with them off then the catalytic cover will drop down, scrap the road, and loudly announce to the whole world that you screwed up. 1 hybridbear reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
markdavidsmith Report post Posted April 9, 2013 One note if you are doing your own oil changes: Once you take the underside cover off to access the filter and draing plug, DO NOT drive the car before putting the cover back in place. The rear screws on the cover also hold on the front part of an aluminum shield around the catalytic converter, and if you drive with them off then the catalytic cover will drop down, scrap the road, and loudly announce to the whole world that you screwed up. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
neod192 Report post Posted April 9, 2013 One note if you are doing your own oil changes: Once you take the underside cover off to access the filter and draing plug, DO NOT drive the car before putting the cover back in place. The rear screws on the cover also hold on the front part of an aluminum shield around the catalytic converter, and if you drive with them off then the catalytic cover will drop down, scrap the road, and loudly announce to the whole world that you screwed up.I'll take it that you're talking from experience? lol :) 1 jeff_h reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
corncobs Report post Posted May 9, 2013 OK sitting at my dealer waiting on the Lady in Red getting her oil changed. Nice part it's complementary; 1 acdii reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tr7driver Report post Posted May 10, 2013 When you change your oil, while you have the underside cover off, take a grease pencil and write you name and phone number on the inside of it. If one of the kids at a quick change place ever forgets to reinstall the cover, they can at least contact you and return it when they realize what happened. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
acdii Report post Posted May 10, 2013 OK sitting at my dealer waiting on the Lady in Red getting her oil changed.Nice part it's complementary;Which dealer did you get it from? Mchenry, or woodstock? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
corncobs Report post Posted May 10, 2013 Which dealer did you get it from? Mchenry, or woodstock? Wickstrom; Barrington I driving by there every day so it's works out quit well for quick pit stops.I also like there service department a lot; they took good care of my wife's Explorer with a bad transmission and ABS sensor; all done under warranty. I just need to bring it back since the transmission is acting funny again. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
acdii Report post Posted May 10, 2013 LOL I was there today checking out a Cmax Energi! The gray one had a dead battery, so looked at a white one, just posted a thread on it too. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
corncobs Report post Posted May 10, 2013 I figured that since my sales guy showed what he had one the lot in terms of Energi models; not quite sure why but when you mentioned that you went and looked at one I figured you went to Wickstrom. They had a nice RR HyTi there yesterday; special order for soon to be or already happy customer. They can't get enough hybrids I think they had 1 FFH and 1 FFE Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
acdii Report post Posted May 11, 2013 The sales guy though sounded like he really didnt want to sell me an Energi, quoting it takes 12 hours to charge and that you need a $4000 charger if you want to charge it faster, and kept saying that they could not sell enough Energi to pay for the charging stations they had to install. He gave me a brochure for the Cmax, and when I looked at it later found it didn't have anything on the Energi. He gave me the wrong one. He sold my Father in law a Cmax, and my FIL has been buying from them for decades. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
corncobs Report post Posted May 11, 2013 I was told the same about not selling to many Energi's; there was a black one which they sold recently; it's was my FFH little brother with the sequence VIN # to mine. They came together one the train from Mexico. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hybridbear Report post Posted May 12, 2013 Your comment makes it sound like the dealer is complaining that no one will buy Energi models, correct? Maybe they could sell some to pay for their chargers if they learned what they were talking about and correctly promoted them to consumers. When someone comes in to look at an Edge or an Escape, for example, they could also make sure the customer is aware of the C-Max Hybrid and Energi and tout the benefits of electrification to help them sell more... And, like my thread about Ford's marketing, some of the blame rests with Ford corporateThe sales guy though sounded like he really didnt want to sell me an Energi, quoting it takes 12 hours to charge and that you need a $4000 charger if you want to charge it faster, and kept saying that they could not sell enough Energi to pay for the charging stations they had to install. 1 BoatDrinksQ5 reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
acdii Report post Posted May 14, 2013 He also said they could only have 5 Cmax Energi and 5 Fusion Energi for the year. Which means, even if they sold everyone they could get, they could not sell enough to pay for their fancy chargers. IOW MSRP or higher or go walk. I never had a good vibe with that dealership even if my FIL bought from them since the day they opened. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
smr2112 Report post Posted May 22, 2013 Is the standard oil change of the 2013 Fusion Semi-Synthetic motorocraft oil?i.e., if I get "The Works", is that what Ford recommends and what I'll get? With the oil change interval now at 10k, I was wondering if they might have changed this?I haven't dug that far into the manual. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeff_h Report post Posted May 22, 2013 Is the standard oil change of the 2013 Fusion Semi-Synthetic motorocraft oil?i.e., if I get "The Works", is that what Ford recommends and what I'll get? With the oil change interval now at 10k, I was wondering if they might have changed this?I haven't dug that far into the manual. Page 301 - Engine oil 4, 5 4.5 qt (4.3 L) - Motorcraft® SAE 5W-20 Premium Synthetic Blend Motor Oil (U.S.)- Motorcraft® SAE 5W-20 Full Synthetic Motor Oil (U.S.)- Motorcraft® SAE 5W-20 Super Premium Motor Oil (Canada)- Motorcraft® SAE 5W-20 Synthetic Motor Oil (Canada) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rico567 Report post Posted June 27, 2013 I still can't go past 3K OCIs without thinking about it, guess I'm showing my age. But this is the 21st century, and contemporary manufacturing techniques and the engines they produce simply don't require oil changes oftener than the manufacturer's recommendations. And the color of the oil is irrelevant...except that the oil darkening means that it's carrying all the byproducts of combustion and other crud, which is what it's designed to do. The only way to know how oil is doing is send it off for a UOA (used oil analysis), everything else is speculation, since there are so many variables in how individual cars are driven and the environments they're driven in. I've used Blackstone Labs in Fort Wayne with success. Oil changes at 3,000 miles belong to the days when cars didn't have oil filters (who remembers that?). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
majorleeslow Report post Posted August 20, 2013 I changed my oil in the 2013 FFH for the first time today, here are a couple points that will interest those who change their own oil. - Gone are the thick plastic covers for the drain plug and oil filter from the 2010 that needed a 7mm and 10mm socket/nut driver to remove. Now there is a large cover (for airflow/sound) that is about 3' x 4' (approx of course) and goes under the entire engine, and is secured by 11 Torx T30 screws. So be sure you have one of these T30s on hand before you start, or you will be backing down off the ramps again to run to the auto store. Actually there are two other airflow/sound covers on the underside that are about 2' x 6' each and go down the length of the car on each side of the exhaust. - Drain plug is 15mm (whereas the 2010 was 13mm) and is facing to the rear of the engine, so I assume that a car sitting level or on ramps would both be good for draining. - Oil Filter is about the same place as the 2010, in front and easily accessible, points straight down. - 2013 FFH takes 4.5 quarts as shown in the owner's manual, which is a different amount than is noted for the various engine sizes in the conventional Fusions (which all have different amounts based on each engine type). Oil filler cap specifies 5W-20 which is also noted in the owner's manual.[/quote I apologize, what's a T30?] Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
murphy Report post Posted August 20, 2013 I apologize, what's a T30?]Torx bit size 30. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
majorleeslow Report post Posted August 21, 2013 thanks Murphy. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wingmn Report post Posted September 30, 2013 Changed the oil today, thanks for all the info!! I had the 9 torx screws and the 2 rectangle clips. Hardest part was getting the car on jack stands. I will have a better way next time. Jacking up one side at a time was way time consuming. Next time I'll try to take the underside cover off first, then use my floor jack on the front metal bar.( under the cover ). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
murphy Report post Posted September 30, 2013 Get a set of low profile ramps. Drive on.Change oil.Drive off. 2 jeff_h and hybridbear reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
acdii Report post Posted October 8, 2013 Get a set of low profile ramps. Drive on.Change oil.Drive off.I have set of those, cant get the car up them, the buggers keep moving! LOL Some great mind thought, hey why should we put rubber feet on the, they wont go anywhere. Yeah...........right. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites