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acdii

Accelerating in the 2013

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Not sure if I'm considered a high mileage guy but I think I'm doing pretty well.

 

I always try to do accelerate so that I have the charging arrow go up. Sometimes if I get of to a "quick start" and I see the arrow go down I just ease the throttle a bit for it to charge and it doesn't take much to reverse direction.

I have a feeling that this approach has become a bit easier since the PCM update and I can keep it around the 2kW mark very well even slightly above.

Actually, if you avoid any arrows, you will do better. Anytime you have arrows you are experiencing the high EV cycle losses. Accelerate to avoid the arrows. Decelerate with slight pedal pressure to avoid them also.

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Interesting idea but isn't the arrow up an indication that the HVB is charging? Why would you wanna coast to a stop while slightly applying throttle pressure ? I mean I understand the losses but do you still charge the HVB?

 

Sorry a lot of questions but now I wanna understand this better.

When you are braking, you want energy to go into the HVB. That's the only time you should PREFER for it to do so. While you're coasting, the built-in regen drag to simulate old automatic transmission cars is a wasteful use of the EV cycle. If you did true P & G in a FFH by modulating the pedal so there are no HVB arrows, you will get phenominal mileage. It is hard to do, distracting and not worth the effort but it demonstrates the losses in the EV cycle. A few years ago I did some tests around my small town with my 2010 FFH. At a steady 30 mph, CC on and the EV cycling at about a 50% rate, my mpg is about 55. P & G-ing between 25 and 35 mph keeping the arrows out of sight during acceleration and coasting yielded 74 mpg! A Ford engineer remarked that first Gen. NiMH FFH's EV cycle had a 30% loss. Maybe the LiIon are less but they're still probably 20%.

That being said, energy, by necessity, goes into and out of the HVB all the time for smooth operation, just don't encourage it. Steady pedal pressure is the secret. The system then runs the ICE with the least EV action. By contrast, the loss through the eCVT with the ICE on is probably less than 5%.

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Are you able to do this successfully in your 2010 FFH? I've tried in the 2013 and it is basically impossible from what I can tell.

 

And, just because there are no arrows that doesn't mean that the ICE isn't being used as a generator and experiencing EV cycle losses. Doesn't a lack of arrows just mean that the current flowing into the HVB is exactly equal to the current flowing out of it to recharge the 12V battery which is running the electronics? Wouldn't that mean that a state of 0 charge losses is actually while the HVB shows discharging? Or am I overthinking things? I wonder if this could be definitively answered with a ScanGauge.

when no arrow, its exactly that, no flow out, no flow in, the energy from the generator is producing just enough to power everything. It is very difficult to maintain no arrows, but I did do it this morning and it was over 40 MPG. However the 13 FFH it a lot more sensitive than the 10 was

 

Difference being that in the 10, the computer holds the battery level at 50%(according to the dash readout), and is limited to 45 MPH EV. Anything over that is pure ICE with EV assist. Once the battery is at its storage point, its all ICE to the wheels, very little is needed for the accessories, so its a lot easier to maintain speed with no arrows. The only time this isnt true is when the car goes into its battery conditioning cycle where all power comes from ICE and it fully charges the pack and peaks it. You would think though that this would affect MPG, but some of my best trips happened during this because when it was done I had twice the HVB than normal.

 

Since the 13 uses Lion batteries, I dont think it conditions like this, since the technology between packs is totally different, and peak charging a Lion is a bad thing. Great for a Nimh, but BAD for Lion.

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I have a very hard time accelerating just in ev mode from stop. Even if batt is decently charged, for the fear that I'll get rear ended by somebody from one stoplight behind. LOL.

 

Does anyone have the 0 to 30, 45, 60( and 85 for new PCM update) times just using EV mode?

Please share if you do. I do not have the roads around me that allow me too do that. Thanks

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You dont want to do that, It would take a very long time to get up past 30 MPH on EV alone. I find just getting 15-20 MPH before ICE kicks on is efficient enough.

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If your riding at night and not many people on the road you can get up there in ev. But depending on distance to next stop and all. On average im noticing letting the gas engine come on even if at 1.5ish lines you end up with 1 or 2 more MPG because it keeps your battery from going down too low and having to come on anyways.

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I have a very hard time accelerating just in ev mode from stop. Even if batt is decently charged, for the fear that I'll get rear ended by somebody from one stoplight behind. LOL.

 

Does anyone have the 0 to 30, 45, 60( and 85 for new PCM update) times just using EV mode?

Please share if you do. I do not have the roads around me that allow me too do that. Thanks

The system wants you to use the ICE for most acceleration. It is inefficient to use EV when significant power is required as in acceleration and higher cruise speeds.

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Boy since I got this car I've started to dread stop lights. as most of the time I'm in EV mode when I hit them and stopping and accelerating from them turns the ICE on.

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