MeeLee

No, it's more efficient to keep the battery charged longer. The engine doesn't run efficiently when start stopping frequently, because it cools down enough to lower efficiency. It takes roughly 5 minutes at 70+ mph, before the engine is hot enough, and runs at optimal temperatures. That's with every engine BTW... Pulse and glide is a proven procedure for extending range, and is entirely off topic (besides the point). Accelerate on the engine at ~3 (~3k rpm on the odd tach, which isn't really a tach), and glide using 0.6-1 on the ev mode (~6-10 HP for 40-45mph, or 1.2-1.5 for 50-55mph). But if you had read my posts, the hybrid system does NOT do it all for you! There are many times when the engine remains on, running for 0.9 to 1.4 (I presume k RPM) on the tach, and remains there (doesn't switch to ev mode). Usually when speed is low, and the pedal is held steady. Other times it will switch between the two, but not efficiently. I accelerate, engine stays on charging too long cruising, red light and brake. During the entire ride between stop lights, the car consumed 20-25 mpg. Instead, the driver can manipulate it, and make it more effective. Accelerate, then manually turn off the engine by forcing on the ev mode for cruising.

You drove it before, didn't you? Does this also apply on the 2019 hybrid?

They definitely do need maintenance, especially if you like to keep your car for over 100k miles. I myself will change out the oil every 50k miles. Not the full flush, just drain and fill.

From what I've read, you won't get a complete refill. The magnetic filter won't be cleaned, and between 1/4th to 1/3rd of the oil can only be drained this way. I only read it, but correct me if I'm wrong.

Not sure, I have the FFH, and after a good 5-10min of interstate at >70mph (on the ice), the battery pack is fully loaded. Then the electric motor seems more eager to aid the ice, and I have a lot more pickup, even in eco mode. The FFH I just perfect as is, on a wet pavement. But on dry tarmac, it can easily use an additional 25-50 horses.

From my understanding, cvt failure can be prevented by draining and filling up the cvt oil. Replacing about 1 quart every 25k miles starting from ~50-75k miles seems to be a good start. An entire cvt flush can also be done at 100k miles, and is like 5 quart of oil, but requires the cvt to be demounted and taken apart, which is MUCH more costly. While it's there, the magnetic filter can be cleaned as well. (Which can't be cleaned with a 1 qt oil change). The 120-145k miles one gets out of the cvt without transmission fluid change, can easily be extended to 185-225k miles(or even higher?), by just doing a 1 quart oil change interval every 25k miles. That's < $250 on insurance for doubling the transmission mileage, you'll get right there.

Hi, So I drive uber/Lyft with my ffh, but passengers regularly slam the doors. I know they're drunk, and the doors of the ffh are exceptionally easy to close. How can I prevent the grand slam from happening? Is there an adjustment I can make to have it slam less hard (more like older cars which you had to slam the doors really hard to close them?)

For one, sedans and hatchbacks, And two, their newer 3 cylinder variants of the 4 banger cars we will never see. I would have loved to see that ford fusion with a 600-900cc 3 pot banger, and double the electric motors (80HP like the prius) on the rear wheel. It wouldn't be hard to beat the prius, and reach 60mpg that way.

I wouldn't call it impossible. It's actually very easy to modify. Double the inductance motor, wire and weld in series with the originalmotor, there's space next to it to do just that. Wiring I parallel means the second motor processes the same signals coming from the controller, as the first one; and hopefully will run in the same direction. The load on the controller may be a bit higher, but then again, the electric motors wouldn't be taxed as high either. As far as a supercapacitor pack, it should have been stock on a ffh! Every hybrid needs a cap pack for regen, and extra power to turn on the engine. Extra motor means a little extra of that power as well. Supercapacitors also buffer voltage fluctuations, which extends battery life, and for phev vehicles, they can be charged very rapidly (hundreds of amps without problems), but also contain less energy than batteries. Full electric isn't for everyone. Most people in cities or associations don't have a way to charge their electric cars. And they make out over 50% of the population. I do believe in electric cars, with a small 600cc ptwin engine, that can be geared to get 100mpg easily, and at the same time can charge the car at a much faster rate, than even level 2 fast chargers, or in some cases come close to level 3 fast chargers.

2019, i'm at 46.5MPG nowadays (bought it at 30k miles and added roughly 6k miles to it). Pulse and glide is the key to good mpg. But pulse and glide requires the battery to be charged fuller. Regen barely fills <5% of the battery, if I had to put a number to it. And that's in a mostly start-stop scenario. Increasing charge, should increase electric range, which I often could be cruising 3 to 5 minutes straight at 35-55mph over here, and could really use at least 2 more minutes of electric range.

Somehow, I wished some upgrade kit would exist for the ffh, Where one could just wire a second half size (20HP) motor in series with the first one (mounting the engine axises together); and a supercapacitor pack that can be installed in the trunk on the back seats. The extra 20hp is really necessary, and a supercapacitor pack would allow for much higher regen braking, as well as higher peak acceleration.

Can the average battery charge percentage be modified from 50% to 66%? I live in pancake flat Florida, and my regen is at most off of a bridge going 50mph. I'd much prefer to have more energy to coast on the motor, as at 45mph the engine fires up every minute or so... Also, with batteries having 500 charge cycles, How long does the hybrid's battery last?

The wrench icon usually means ice engine problems. No acceleration probably because the battery was empty. Standing overnight allows the cells to reset a bit, which gives you the idea the car got more charge, but it doesn't. All EVs have the same issue. When your battery juice is finished, turn off the car, let it sit for a few minutes, and try again. Tell your mechanic to plug a scanner or pc in the obd2 connector . May be a faulty sensor, non working alternator, or other.

The hole is about 1/4" (I don't think this will be possible). Besides, when using a magnet on a screw, laying in a metal enclosure, it's probably not going to do much (as the screw becomes a magnet to the door).

I don't see this option in my car, nor the battery icon. For someone who's an MPG nerd, it's important information omitted! I'm more interested in seeing battery levels after some highway driving, as well as when driving in the city. Does the battery icon ever go emptier when coasting on the electric motor (until the ICE kicks in)?

Are they street legal? Meaning, do they blind the person in front of me? (headlight beam must be below the trunk of a sedan car in front of me).

What's the best way to fix the exterior door handle screws that fell out (the one behind a rubber grommet, on the side of the door)? I was replacing the exterior door handle, however I unscrewed the screw too far, and now the screw fell inside the door. Can I fix it, or does the whole door lock need to be removed? What's the best procedure? First, I need to find the screw, and tried fishing with a steel wire, without success.

Apparently this is a very bad suggestion! My 2019 FFH still uses creep, which means now the electric motor is still trying to push forward the car, with the brakes on. Not only do I lose power like crazy, the motor also heats up! Unlike the regular brake, where the motor cuts out, using the parking brake is really not recommended. It's a ffh design flaw! You know because the rear of the car comes up as you pit the car into D with parking brake on, or, the rear goes down once you shift into N with the parking brake. I think the ecu isn't programmed to cut power to the motor when on parking brake.

Quite a few times, I see the engine run at 250-750rpm on a cold start, at <35mph. It basically idles, and pushes the car at idle rpm. Once warmed up (a few seconds in), it'll usually run at 1-1.5k rpm minimum, regardless of car cruising speed. I've had my hybrid accelerate from a dead stop from the engine alone. And tach does work mostly, but has some bugs in it. It's actually the only indicator on the left, that shows some sort of valuable info. All other info on the left panel is useless to me (save for mpg data, which I can see that exact same data on the right panel). With the phev, you can charge the battery enough (like 30 min) to start the engine by fully pressing the throttle in park mode. Or, while driving, put the car into D (drive) mode, and then enable L-mode, which will allow the engine to run at higher rpm, and allows it to start easier. For the hybrid, you may be in a pinch. I always believed ford engineers must have foreseen what would happen if the high voltage battery was drained, and at least either equipped the hybrid with a starter motor, or allow the high voltage motor to start on the 12V battery. Either way, measure the 12v battery. If it's empty, try using jumper cables on it, and see if that helps. Some people say you can't jump start from a cvt, others say you can damage the cvt when towing with the front wheels on the ground, Yet others say the torque converter won't allow your engine to rotate at all, despite of pushing/pulling the vehicle... I'm no expert at this...

Can't tell, however, +1 added speaker usually indicates a trunk subwoofer (usually a single 8" driver at less than 50W) which adds a little bass at the radio volumes, but is far from an air pusher or loud. Not sure if this is true here.

2019 as well. Sounds a bit like my friend's 2015 (older model) fusion.

Damn! I heard a little louder engine noise at a certain rpm range, when accelerating on the highway, but no rattling sound. Also dissappear when I pressed the accelerator less hard. The issue was either the previous mechanic forgot the oil ring, and mounted another filter, causing one (or both) of the seals to break, or, The filter got past it's limit at 30k miles, and blew the seal. The low oil pressure warning only came on a few times (like 3), but went out quickly (possibly due to the ev mode enabling right after). Mechanic put in synthetic oil and new filter, runs fine now. I think the dealer I bought it from (handling in second hand cars), must have overlooked the filter as well, considering how new the car looked when I purchased it...

Ok, turns out the previous people who leased the car, never changed the oil filter (because probably they didn't care). Just an oil filter ring issue. Replaced filter and oil , and runs fine now.

Bought my fusion about 3 weeks from the dealer. They had inflated the tires to 30PSI, so I thought, might as well do an all check up. Found that the oil level was at (or below) the low indicator, so I added some oil (about a quart). Now the oil level was slightly above the high indicator. Still it's a bit hard to see. Then, 2 weeks later, my engine starts making noise, and I had a few times the low oil pressure light come up. I thought, perhaps it's because I added too much oil. I checked the oil level, and there was NO oil in it??? The level was below the bottom line! So I added a few Oz again, until the oil level hit the bottom line. In total I added 1/2 gal (in 3 weeks). I don't see blue smoke from the exhaust, and no oil spills anywhere. What could be the cause?

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