eisbaer

DEL:ETE

didnt think so, this forum is shit!

Your "citation" mentions NOTHING of being required to hold your foot upon the brake to illuminate the rear lights when stopped at a traffic light so again stop feeding people misinformation. I cant believe you try to provide information and its not even fucking in the link provided. Stop laying blame on others for your lack of observation. If your relying on another vehicles brake lights to determine if you should stop at a traffic lighted intersection which more than likely has more indications than the 2 on the rear of a vehicle in front of you, im sorry but youre a fucking idiot!!!! fyi (but its pointless for you) slowing or stopping doesnt mean stopped fyi, im 42 so what generation are you speaking too? fyi again go fuck yourself

NO, in fact you are wrong and i dont know what book of bullshit you are reading but there is no statute (in my state anyway) that requires an individual to hold their foot upon the brake and have the rear light of the vehicle illuminated! The only thing you are required to do at specifically a red light is stop behind the solid line and yeild right of way until the signal deems that you can then proceed into the intersection. So you and others here need to stop relaying old wives tales and start using some common sense. If you want proof, here it is: http://www.gencourt.state.nh.us/rsa/html/NHTOC/NHTOC-XXI-265.htm Specifically Section 265:10 (III) And from the State issued Drivers Manual https://www.nh.gov/safety/divisions/dmv/forms/documents/nhdm.pdf " INTERSECTIONS Drivers should not rely on other road users to obey traffic control signals or signs. Drivers should always be prepared to avoid a collision. So go write yourself a ticket or go take the driving course AGAIN

i never they others didnt, i said they are disabled in hybrids to conserve the HVB along with other features. You brought it up initially so why dont you put your money where your mouth is and do it yourself.

So its obviously a law that your country has where others dont nbd. There are numerous options that are disabled in the hybrid version that arent in others to reduce consumption of unnecessary features that are not critical. its not that hard to wrap your head around

If the reason for not having a spare is because of the chance in a rear end collision the HVB is going to end up in the back seat the circumstance wouldn't be because of a spare tire. The hybrid vehicle is sold with run flat tires and should be replaced with such and in fords eye means that a spare is redundant maximizing the use of the HVB (also things like disabling DRL) I purchased a spare on ebay for $65 and took the jack from the vehicle this car replaced.

There has been a few posts around where the cooling fan stays on even if the vehicle is off, draining the battery. It makes sense that if the pump has/is failing and the electric powertrain is overheating that the system is running the fan to try and cool the fluid for that system. Thanks for the follow up with the fix for your issue!

The dealer would be the last place I would take it for this issue. Youre going to pay more than the worth of the car to have it fixed. If you have a local mechanic that is reasonable see what the cost is to have the rack replaced. Order one on ebay that has the lowest miles or a refurbed one from somewhere like CARID and you can have it tested for functionality before the actual process of replacement.

So your saying that in the first instance replacing the HVB fixed the issue and then replacing the 12V battery in the second instance fixed the issue?

Yes.

There is a similar foam style holder that fits with a "donut" spare that people use from non-hybrid versions. Of course you could use any scissor style jack and figure a packaging accordingly. I just used one from my last car (tribeca) and store it wedged against the tire and wall. The hybrids are sold with run flat tires but for the most part i think people dont opt for them as replacements because they are 3x the price!

replace it

One thing i have learnt with these hybrids and especially new cars in general is that the old "simple" DMM battery voltage reading doesnt mean shit! Personally I would monitor the system/circuit voltage with software, it is much more accurate.

First of all clear (or try to clear) all the codes and see what comes back and when and what symptoms the vehicle is having. It is paramount to record as much information as possible, even if you think it is irrelevant. From the images you have provided it seems there is no power or low power going to a module. A quick search of the internet provided me with this http://nema.club/2014wsm/workshop manual/n6w01/html/id0102i0007500.html although for a mazda the codes are universal so have a look through. From what you have already said, I would want to know what module, then check any related fuses and then find any connections to that module. Pull apart, check the pins (both sides) and reconnect securely. If the problem persists a simple continuity check of the wires if you are proficient in electrics.

Just out of interest, did you use voltage insulating gloves to disconnect the HVB or just your bare hand?

GOOD! The quicker we get rid of gasoline engines the better.

I know your looking for someone that has had the same issue as well but really without pulling any codes to try and pinpoint the issue (if any) it really is a stab in the dark

with a post count of 2 i can see why you would make such a post. Knowing that a particular topic of conversation was happening at the time might render a different response!

i cant help on how to fix it but try using a magnet to fish the lose screw to a place you can get fingers onto it

i would think that these days the electronic systems are programmed to adhere to the rules and regulations that are required for the vehicle to pass inspection when used as directed within the manual. While your state may have amended regulations the topic is questionable at best to have a police officer pull you over and write a ticket for not having your headlights on while using the windshield wipers. This is where my previous comment comes into conversation. Then the argument would be that if it isn't programmed accordingly you just have to operate the headlights manually just as you would in the old days of a bi-functional system depending on your vehicles options and the rules of the road.

They are on when the police officer deems them to be and is having a bad day and wants to bring that rule to fruituion....otherwise you are ok

It is a timed reference that can be reset in the Vehicle menu on the instrument cluster

I fixed my problem for $120 but know a mechanic that helped out. If you were to find a used one like I did and can find a mechanic to test it like I did before installing it could just be the part and reasonable labor. There is more detailed information here: https://www.fordfusionforum.com/index.php?app=forums&module=forums&controller=topic&id=21004