Here are two posts I made on the Energi forum that address the problem of a dead battery. 1. Posted 13 January 2017 - 07:11 PM It happened to me today. Hadn't driven the Energi for about 10 days and the 12v battery was dead today. Tried using a trickle charger but didn't seem to work. Checked the internet and found this one at Harbor Freight Tools: 3-in-1 Portable Power Pack with Jump Starter by Cen-Tech (item 62376) Only $47.67 including tax. Worked immediately. Drove the car a few miles and then plugged it in to the 240 EVSE. Hopefully the 12v battery will be fully charged at the end of the cycle. Thanks to Murphy for the location of the negative terminal under the hood. The positive terminal has a red boot covering it and the negative terminal is 6 1/2 inches to the rear of the vehicle. The positive cable connection was a little tight but manageable. Now to install the rope to open the trunk in case of future failure. Will be expected since it is a 2013. 2. Posted 15 January 2017 - 01:19 PM So I bought the jump starter battery pack as stated in the previous post. Since my battery will likely die in the near future (2013 FFE) I plan on carrying the jump starter in the trunk. But that won't do much good if I am away from home, the battery dies (or the key fob battery dies), and the car is locked. I need both a way to get into the vehicle and a way to open the trunk. My FFE has the push button start so no immediate way to get into the car. Here is a youtube video of how to access the emergency access key contained in the key fob: But once in the car I still can't access the trunk so I installed a piece of rope from the emergency trunk opener in the trunk through the back seat. Problem solved. This is just one way that addresses the dead battery problem on a push-button start vehicle.

North Carolina just instituted a $100 electric vehicle tax and a $50 hybrid tax this year.

Picked up my new 2013 Energi 9 days ago. When I checked the pressure after driving a few days, it was 30 psi--underinflated. I went back to the dealer and had them put 40 psi in the tires. Not a big factor with an Energi but definitely makes a difference in a FFH. I have been running 44 psi in all my vehicles for 8 years with no problems--except better mileage. I let the pressure drop to 40 psi in the winter.

What is your tire pressure?

No expert here either. But I see no harm in trying the small battery disconnect first. Much simpler than the large battery. Here is a link to the manual--specifically page 2-12: http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&ved=0CD0QFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.digitalallyinc.com%2Fdownloads%2F2012_FusionHybrid_MKZHybrid_Guide.pdf&ei=6R6gUsLrOoa-kQfznICoBQ&usg=AFQjCNE-q_v7EK0FW5jwrCtySVX8CUlZrA&sig2=jRfuV2_NRne2tWbwOo4RLg&bvm=bv.57155469,d.eW0

You should be able to do the reset by disconnecting the 12 v battery in the trunk for 5 minutes. I previously posted the following: "If what we are doing is erasing the KAM (Keep-Alive Memory), isn't that done by just disconnecting the 12-volt battery for 5 minutes? That is how it was done on the Honda Civic Hybrid. Found this in a 2012 Fusion/MKZ Hybrid Modifiers Guide: "Keep-Alive Memory (KAM) Power The electronic engine and/or transmission control modules and the HVTB BECM require low battery voltage (12 volts) to be supplied at all times to maintain the keep-alive memory (KAM). Keep this in mind when installing load disconnect switches or solenoids."

Amazing!!!

These same engineers recommended 26 psi for the Ford Explorer that resulted in severe underinflation, rollovers and numerous deaths. The engineers want the softest ride at the lowest pressure they can recommend. These engineers designed the Bronco II with a high center of gravity and severe rollover problems; the Pinto with a vulnerable gas tank, etc. As for tire manufacturers recommending the sticker pressure. Why would they recommend anything different? That would open them up for law suits, etc. As long as the sticker pressure is reasonable the tire manufacturers will say to use that figure. Have you ever tried 40 or 44 psi? I have seven years experience running my cars at 44psi with no problems. When my tires lose a little pressure I end up with 39/40 psi in my tires. When you start at 32 you may end up at 28 and when you start at 36 you may end up at 32 or lower. One of the main reasons for blowouts from overheated tires is underinflation.

I run all my cars at 44psi. Never had a problem except better gas mileage.

46.2 mpg for 3,000+ lifetime miles. 47.2 mpg for the last 1118 miles. Fall and spring are the best times for good mileage.

Got to 46.0 mpg today for 2,556 miles lifetime. Happy here. 46.9 mpg for the last 800 miles.

"According to the Kent Fire Department incident report, the fire appeared to be concentrated in the car’s engine compartment." There is NO engine compartment--at least not in the basic model. There is a trunk in the rear and a trunk in the front. There are no comsumer accessible engine components.

Has your dad considered a knee replacement? Had two done in 1999 and that is one place on my body that never hurts. Have also had one hip replaced. Painless there also.

My buddy in Fallbrook got a TESLA and will get $7,500 from the feds plus $2,500 from CA. He also got solar panels installed with a net cost of $8k. His electric bill is minimal and he is selling excess back to the power co. I will be seeing it on Wednesday.

44 psi here, 45.5 mpg for 1750 miles.

MPG getting incrementally better, just hit 45.5 overall--1,750 miles. I'm happy!

Always folllow the auto makers recommended pressure? Just like the 26 psi Ford recommended for the Explorer. Low pressure likely led to overheating and the resulting tire separation that caused many rollovers and deaths. "...Ford's decision to increase the stability of the Explorer by lowering the tire pressure (26 psi) soon had unintended consequences. The mushier tires held the road better but worsened fuel economy. When Ford asked Firestone to fix the problem, Firestone reduced the weight of the tire about 3%..." I have over 100,000 miles experience running my cars at 44 psi with zero problems. My experience with higher psi showed an increase in mpg of 1.5 for a Jeep Grand Cherokee, 2 mpg for a Nissan Maxima, and 4 mpg for a Honda Civic Hybrid. I would not recommend 44 psi for hotrodders, but most who are driving a FFH are conservative drivers seeking higher mpg.

You are thinking of the old bias ply tires. Steel belted radials sit flat across the road at most pressures. I have been running 44 psi on all my cars for several years with no abnormal wear. Thare is not much difference in the ride either. Just better mpg!

What psi are you running on your tires?

This was covered here: http://fordfusionhybridforum.com/topic/7335-mft-update/ See post #7 by gmarshall

If what we are doing is erasing the KAM (Keep-Alive Memory), isn't that done by just disconnecting the 12-volt battery for 5 minutes? That is how it was done on the Honda Civic Hybrid. Found this in a 2012 Fusion/MKZ Hybrid Modifiers Guide: "Keep-Alive Memory (KAM) Power The electronic engine and/or transmission control modules and the HVTB BECM require low battery voltage (12 volts) to be supplied at all times to maintain the keep-alive memory (KAM). Keep this in mind when installing load disconnect switches or solenoids." Any ideas?

What's your tire pressure? I run my 2014 with 44 psi all-around and get 45 mpg. If you are at 36 psi your mileage could improve 2-3 mpg with an increase in pressure. I ran 44 psi in my Honda Civic Hybrid for five years with no adverse effects on tires and with better mileage. I also run 44 psi on my Maxima and did on a Jeep Grand Cherokee also. Improved mpg for each.

What is your tire pressure? I just raised mine to 43.5 psi front and 42.5 back. Only had my FFH for 11 days but 45.1 mpg overall and steadily climbing. Tire pressure can make a huge difference--3 to 4 mpg. I drove a Honda Civic Hybrid for 5 years with no adverse effects from 44 psi (over 60,000 miles). When we first got Honda tire pressure was only 32 psi. Steadily increased it to the 44 psi (max for the tires) with great results. MPG was never above 42 but got as much as 48 mpg after increasing the pressure to 44 psi. But increased tire pressure will NOT help if you don't drive the vehicle correctly--gentle acceleration and smooth regenerative stops. Good luck.