murphy

Just in case an Energi (FFE) driver reads this thread. The Energi brakes are bigger because of the weight of the battery. The specified wheel will not clear the brake caliper so it can't be used.

The size on that battery is BCI 90. Compare the physical dimensions of a BCI 90 with a BCI 99R. https://www.batteryequivalents.com/bci-battery-group-size-chart.html It is slightly longer. The chart indicates that a T4 is the correct size.

The battery must have the same physical dimensions or it won't fit in the battery tray. The + battery post must be on the right, the same as the original, or the cables won't reach to connect it to the car. No you can't turn it around. The posts are closer to one edge of the battery. BXT-99R-390 99 is the battery group size and the R indicates the + post is on the right. 390 is the CCA rating of the battery.

Yes, 1 year or 10,000 miles whichever comes first.

It has been reported. I did not get a response to the report. I don't have the ability to fix it. Maybe those that can fix it are on vacation.

The standard factory warranty is 3 years or 36,000 miles. The 100,000 mile warranty is for the hybrid unique components only. That is the high voltage battery and the two electric motors. I don't think it covers anything else but ask Ford for a final answer.

I have a 2013 Energi. I removed the battery tray from the trunk and cut the end off of it. I then installed this battery. https://www.amazon.com/Optima-Batteries-8040-218-YellowTop-Purpose/dp/B000MSDKMA/ref=sr_1_2?crid=F80ZIOUEP4EJ&dchild=1&keywords=optima+yellow+top+battery&qid=1623686888&sprefix=Optima%2Caps%2C176&sr=8-2 It lasted 6 years. I installed another one in 2019.

Get rid of the wet cell lead acid battery and install an AGM battery. Wet cell starter batteries were designed to provide a short burst of high current and then immediately be recharged. If discharged to a low SOC they suffer internal damage.

It's the air inlet for cooling the battery in an Energi. I assume it is the same in a hybrid. Cabin air is used to cool the battery. I guess the assumption is that if the cabin occupants are cool the battery will also be cool.

Pushing the accelerator pedal to the floor, with the key on, should cause the ICE to crank. Fill the HVB to maximum by using that fact to run the ICE in park before you start the testing. The car does not have a traditional starter motor. The HVB and one of the electric motors crank the engine. If at all possible use 4 compression testers to get all 4 cylinders at the same time.

Have your 12 volt battery load tested.

The use of heat or air conditioning will reduce your range. Is this actual range or what you see on the estimated range display, sometimes called a "guess-o-meter". Temperatures below 70 degrees F will reduce the range. Driving at high speeds in EV Now will reduce the range because of air drag. Air drag increases with the square of the speed.

My panels were installed September 2013. I have 10 kW of panels on the roof of the house. Since then I have generated 87 MWh (87,000 kWh). At 16 cents per kWh that is $13,920 that I didn't pay to the power company.

I'll state the obvious. The car won't move if it is in neutral. It is physically impossible for the engine to move the car in reverse. Reverse can only be done by the electric motor. The car can't move at all if the 3 phase inverter has failed. The car can't move at all if one of the two electric motors has failed. Codes should be present for all of the failures.

LH Front door speaker speaker + = WH speaker - = WH-BN RH Front door speaker speaker + = WH-VT speaker - = WH-OG LH Rear door speaker speaker + = WH-GN speaker - = BN-YE RH Rear door speaker speaker + = BN-WH speaker - = BN-BU AMP enable = BN (not used) From the 2013 Wiring Diagrams

What audio system does the car have? The default system or the Sony system. You will have to disable the active noise cancellation if you modify the system.

The normal charge level for the HVB in a hybrid is 50%. There has to be room for the energy recovered by regenerative braking to be stored. Turn the car on in Park and floor the accelerator pedal and the engine will start and charge the HVB. You can't hurt the engine. The computer is controlling the gasoline flow and won't permit the engine to be damaged. I agree that it is time for a new 12 volt battery.

If by main battery you mean the high voltage battery,that can't be charged externally except possibly by a dealer. It is charged by an electric motor operating as a generator which means the engine must be running. The 12 volt battery can be tested by most places that sell batteries. I bought a tool on Amazon so I could do it myself. It puts a 100 ampere load on the battery for 10 seconds. If the battery voltage drops below 10.5 volts during that test the battery has reached the end of its useful life. If the battery has ever been discharged to a very low voltage it has probably been permanently damaged. A wet cell lead acid battery is the wrong battery for this application. It should be an AGM battery but they cost more so Ford picked the less expensive battery. I have a 2013 Energi and about 6 months after I bought the car I replaced the wet cell battery with an AGM battery.

I guarantee the alternator isn't working because the car doesn't have an alternator. It has a DC to DC converter. It also doesn't have a 12 volt starter motor. One of the high voltage motors starts the ICE. If the 12 volt battery is too low to pull in the two contactors that connect the high voltage battery to the car, the car will be dead. Put another 12 volt battery in parallel using the jump points under the hood and the car will come alive.

The PHEV (Energi) has an oil pump, the Hybrid does not have an oil pump.

The engine runs to provide electricity so an electric motor can drive the wheels. It is physically impossible for the engine to drive the wheels in reverse. There are no gears to shift in the transmission. The engine does NOT direct drive the wheels at low speed. It's an electric car. Have you not noticed that you can accelerate the car and the engine RPM does not change? The computer controls the engine to achieve maximum efficiency. There are two electric motors. See if you can find the description of the Toyota eCVT video on YouTube. Ford is the same.

It does not start from the 12 volt battery in the trunk. The car doesn't have a traditional starter motor or an alternator. The engine is started by one of the electric motors driven by the high voltage battery. There are no belts in an eCVT transmission. The engine only drives the wheels at very high speeds. At all other times the wheels are driven by an electric motor. Most of the time there is no relation between engine RPM and wheel speed. The accelerator pedal is not connected to the engine It is connected to the computer. The computer decides what RPM to run the engine. My car is 8 years old and I have never had the RPM on the display since it is useless information.

Go here: https://owner.ford.com/service/dealer-locator.html and check the certified box before doing the search.

Is the dealer that you took it to electric certified? If they are not certified they don't know anything about the car. Have you checked the spark plugs and the fuel injectors and the fuel pump. The car is not supposed to allow you to drain the battery. At some point it should stop trying to turn the motor.

All of the schematics are available for a Ford car. They have to be purchased. They are available from http://helminc.com The 1-1/2" thick book for my 2013 cost $86.95 including shipping in 2013.