murphy

Yes. It could take several tanks for it to learn how you drive the car.

In the left driver screen, not the center screen.

You replaced the kit with a spare but didn't go into the screens and reset the timer for kit replacement.

The 100 amp test should be done on a fully charged battery. My meter shows 10.4 volts as the bottom edge of the good range. If the battery has been fully discharged 6 or 7 times there is a pile of plate material at the bottom of each cell. It isn't big enough to actually short out the cell yet but it does provide a high resistance path between the plates. That is contributing to the self discharge. I bought an 18 watt solar panel with battery charge controller at Home Depot. It is mounted on the roof of the shed that houses the mowers and is used to keep the battery in one of the mowers charged. The shed is over 100 feet from the house and does not have power available. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Coleman-18-Watt-12-Volt-Solar-Battery-Charging-Kit-58033/203241551 I prefer an AGM battery in a car that is not driven much.

My car charges at whatever voltage it is set to which is probably 13.8 to 14 volts. I only use the Schumacher when the car is not being driven. You may find this chart for a wet cell battery of use.

1. Was the GPS tracking device connected directly to the battery terminals? If it was it bypasses the circuit that measures current into and out of the battery. That means the car has no knowledge of the drain it puts on the battery. 2. I used an Optima D35 Yellow Top battery. There was a report several years later, in the Energi forum, that someone found a different battery that fits in the space without cutting the tray. I didn't write the details down so it would take a search of the Energi forum to find it. I had to replace my D35 last year after 6 years of use and didn't bother to do the search. The battery is not vented. There is no free liquid in an AGM battery. It can be used upside down if for some reason that was required, The AGM battery did not require any electrical changes. I do have a Schumacher smart battery charger that has an AGM mode. My car doesn't get driven much since I am retired. Covid-19 really amplified the non use so I charge the battery once a week. I put about 20 miles on the car last month, 3. The Energi has built in GPS and the app or web site can tell me where it is at any time. It has a data modem on the AT&T cell network. Was the GPS addition because of a car loan or a lease so the dealer could find the car?

The car is loaded with microprocessors. Some of them never turn off. There is a constant load on the battery. If the ones that are supposed to turn off don't, that is a problem. I have a 2013 Energi. It had a problem where some wires in the left side of the trunk were laying on top of the edge of a steel panel. Vibration eventually wore through the insulation and caused a short. I fixed that problem by wrapping the wires with a large amount of soft foam so it was impossible for the wires to get anywhere near the metal edge. I also replaced the stock wet cell battery with an AGM battery about 6 months after I bought the car. That required taking the battery tray out of the car and cutting the end off of it to allow the bigger battery to fit. The strange part of this problem is that when the battery gets to a certain low voltage the car is supposed to go into sleep mode to reduce the drain even further. With the Energi, which can be accessed with an app remotely, this results in a notification that the car is sleeping and must be physically accessed to wake it up. Do you have any aftermarket products connected directly to the battery?

Has the battery ever been fully discharged? Wet cell lead acid batteries are damaged when completely discharged. Material flakes off of the plates and piles up at the bottom of the cell. If the pile reaches the bottom of the plates it shorts out the cell.

You have to select the connection. It is at the bottom of the list which which is probably off of the screen.

I drove a 2010 Hybrid from April 2009 until April 2013 and then a 2013 Energi from April 2013 until the present. I live in south east PA so have experience with cold, snow, and salt. I've never had a problem with the parking brake or any of the running gear for that matter.

New 12 volt battery. 12 volts is needed to pull in the contactors that connect the HVB to the car. Once connected the DC to DC converter supplies 12 volts as long as the car is on. Turn the car off and now a working 12 volt battery is needed to restart it.

Assuming a 2019 works the same as my 2013 there is no regen when you take your foot off of the accelerator pedal UNLESS the gear selector is in the L position. If it is in the D position regen begins when you put your foot on the brake pedal. The friction brakes do not engage at that point. The pedal has to be pushed a significant amount before the friction brakes take over. L is not a gear. The car doesn't have any gears. It also doesn't have a traditional starter motor or an alternator.

Yes.

The link doesn't work.

I use this one to connect to my laptop via Bluetooth. https://www.amazon.com/ScanTool-OBDLink-Bluetooth-Professional-Diagnostics/dp/B006NZTZLQ/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=MX+OBD2&qid=1583089101&sr=8-3 Anything by OBDLink is a good product.

Only some functions require a license key. I had to get a license to be able to enable the Daytime Running Lights (DRL) in my 2013 Fusion Energi. Use the program. If you try to do something that needs a key the program will let you know. It's been a couple of years since I did that but my memory is that reading data is allowed. Writing to the car needs the key.

I have two earlier model Leviton EVSEs, a 16 amp and a 40 amp. The only sound they make is a click as the contactor pulls in to connect power to the cars. You could bring that video to the attention of Leviton support.

If the 12 volt battery is dead that will have to be charged first. 12 volts is needed to run the electronics that run the car. It is also used to pull in the contactors that connect the high voltage battery to the car.

The High Voltage Battery is supposed to last for the life of the car. The 12 volt battery will need replacement just like any other car.

Are you inserting the key (screwdriver) in the hole in the bottom of the cap?

1.8 watts is very low to keep a battery charged. That is only 0.15 amps. I have an 18 watt solar charger on the roof of my shed to keep the battery in my lawn tractor charged. I see a power port plug in the picture. You can't charge the battery through one of the cars power ports. They are not connected directly to the battery and get turned off after 70 minutes. Whatever you use must be connected to the battery terminals under the hood.

Yes. It only moves a small amount to the right and then pull toward you. You may find a small blade screwdriver easier to push up with than the key. They specified using the key since most people wouldn't have a screwdriver with them.

See pages 46 and 47. http://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/Catalog/owner_information/2015-Fusion-Hybrid-Energi-Owners-Manual-version-1_om_EN-US_05_2014.pdf

Define a long time. The microprocessors in the car, a lot of them, are running all of the time. If the battery drops to a critical level the car goes into deep sleep. External contact, if your car has that, is terminated. The only way to wake it up is by physical access to the car. My memory is telling me that the Owner's manual will tell you how long it takes before it is a problem. If you have a real key does it also open the trunk or is it only for the driver's door? The car is a rolling computer and the only way to completely shut it down is to disconnect the 12 volt battery. Fact that many people don't know. The accelerator pedal is not connected to the engine. It is connected to the computer. It is two variable resistors with a total of 6 wires going to the computer. The computer has total control of the engine. It is truly "fly by wire".

Not if you don't have the metal key, which is hidden inside of the fob, with you. The battery is in the trunk. If the trunk is closed and the battery is disconnected the only way into the car is as follows: Pop cap off of drivers door handle that covers the key slot. Insert key and unlock driver's door. There are two paths from here. 1 Pop the hood and connect a jumper battery to the terminals under the hood. This will allow the trunk to be opened with the fob or with the keypad on the drivers B pillar. or 2. Crawl into the back seat and open the passenger rear door. Fold the seat back down. Pull on the rope that you previously connected to the trunk emergency release. If you didn't install the rope, fold the driver side seat back down and figure out a way to get hold of the emergency release handle to pull it. I have the rope in place in my car plus a jumper battery in the trunk. To the OP: Don't you trust your friend to safeguard your keyfob while you are away? The keyfob being in the car will not run down the 12 volt battery unless someone keeps touching an outside door handle to make the car query the keyfob. As long as the keyfob is not in the slot where it can read the chip directly the car will not know the keyfob is in the car.