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  1. Yesterday
  2. 2014FordFusionSE
    Hello, It's a difficult one to explain. No dashboard lights, no sponginess in the pedal and I've taken it to a dealership and had the brake fluid exchanged. The dealership said that the pads and rotors have a lot of life left. The car is 12 years old with a 104k miles. When I press the brakes, it seems like the slow down is not very gradual. I'll press the brakes and at some point, it seems to suddenly slow down as though the brakes decided to suddenly wake up and engage. It's not at an alarming level but I'm trying to make sure it doesn't get worse somehow. The service advisor also said that the brake booster and ABS in these cars are very expensive to replace and not worth it, assuming it comes to that at some point. Any thoughts on what I should do/check?
  3. Earlier
  4. johnsmtv started following FFH factoids & parts quiz
  5. BiXLL started following Name of 3.7v cell screws?
  6. DavidJohnson
    Can I ask something regarding this? Edit: Seems no
  7. Sky14FFH
    I think it helped that I got a Noco Genius 5amp battery charger during pandemic. I'm still really annoyed that the guy who was repairing my car after a rear ender left it out in the heat for weeks ultimately killing the battery. I guess it was time to get a new one but I am just not a buy-and-throw-away-buy-and-throw-away person and do not understand why so many Americans are. I'm also really annoyed that what was once $50 for batteries are now $200 but I hope it is worth it for an AGM.
  8. fastFusion
    I've been thinking about upgrading my wheels on my '19 Fusion Hybrid for better looks, but I'm worried about taking a hit on fuel economy - has anyone noticed a drop in gas mileage after switching to 19" rims, and has anyone even tried fitting 20s on this car or is that pushing it too far? P.S. Per wheel size.com max factory wheel is 19" https://www.wheel-size.com/size/ford/fusion/2019/#region-usdm but I also see that 20"s could be an option for our cars with super skinny tires https://www.carid.com/wheels/chrome/20-inch/
  9. fastFusion
    Sometimes just reseating the fuse can fix the connection issue even if the fuse itself looks fine - glad it worked for you!
  10. fastFusion
    That's impressive longevity on the original 12V - I've heard that hybrids can be easier on the battery since the engine cycles less, so getting over a decade isn't unheard of but definitely on the high end of what you'd expect.
  11. fastFusion
    I'm the same way - I keep Eco on almost all the time because it just feels smoother, only turn it off for highway merging or hills where I need more power.
  12. flydutch
    Don't see activity on this topic for a while... I have used the Eco mode primarily since the car was new (it now has 83K). I have a neighbor that has a 2015FFH that does not have the Eco mode, but his overall mileage is better than mine (near 50 lifetime vs 39 for me) BUT, our driving styles are vastly different. I find that Eco mode makes the car operate more smoothly and calmly - when it's off, I find the start from a stop very jerky, hard to modulate. I for sure use it on long road trips. I have learned to anticipate how the car will accelerate and decelerate and use it to plan ahead (re: traffic avoidance, etc.). The only time I toggle Eco off is when I see a long, steep hill coming up so the car won't slow down and bug people behind me; it maintains hill speed much better with Eco off, of course.
  13. 2014FordFusionSE
    As I always say, call around and ask. O'Reilley's, AutoZone, Walmart IIRC, O'Reilley's will give you a gift card in exchange for the core.
  14. Sky14FFH
    I just replaced my 12v with a Motorcraft AGM BAGM-H4 from Rockauto (beware they don't reimburse for core). I have to confirm, my fuel economy went up from an already good tank from 50mpg to 56mpg averaging out the fillup at 52mpg. Since I also changed my oil using Mobil 1 5w-20 hybrid at the same time the fuel economy on Trip 2 where I keep my oil change miles is over 54mpg. Got both batteries tested at a ford dealer and one of the cells conked out in the OEM. Not bad for 11 1/2 years though. AGM tested at 650 CCA even though it is rated at 540. If anyone knows where to get reimbursed for the full amount of the core $18, I'd like to know. I really hate being scammed.
  15. Fusion_Hybrid
    Update: On Sept 8, 2025, I inspected the PCM Fuse (#3 - 40A) by pulling it out and comparing it to the 40A fuses. Seeing no difference/damage, I put the fuse back and the car started up as "normal". Not sure this was the underlying issue but it worked today. Thanks for sharing your thoughts on the PCM Fuse. Chuck
  16. Fusion_Hybrid started following 2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid will Not Start
  17. Fusion_Hybrid
    Background: Because of some needed repairs (Valve Cover Gasket) on my 2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid, I have not driven/started it since mid-June and have been driving my pick-up. Last week I was trying to open the trunk and it would not open because the battery was dead. So I charged the battery and started the car and let it run in the garage for about five minutes. Yesterday I decided I better drive the car again since it had been over two months. Although the car would "turn on" it would not start and a bunch of warning lights (Wrench, Hybrid Battery, etc.) appeared/flashed on the left side of the instrument panel. I think the Hybrid battery may be dead and/or a fuse may be blown which will not allow me to start the vehicle. Is there a way to try and charge the hybrid battery at home vs. having it towed to a repair shop? I would much appreciate anyone's thoughts on this who may have experienced the same or similar issue. Thanks. Chuck
  18. Fusion_Hybrid
    Did replacing the fuse solve the non-starting issue as I am experiencing the same thing? Background: Because of some needed repairs (Valve Cover Gasket) on my 2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid, I have not driven/started it since mid-June and have been driving my pick-up. Last week I was trying to open the trunk and it would not open because the battery was dead. So I charged the battery and started the car and let it run in the garage for about five minutes. Yesterday I decided I better drive the car again since it had been over two months. Although the car would "turn on" it would not start and a bunch of warning lights (Wrench, Hybrid Battery, etc,.) appeared/flashed on the left side of the instrument panel. I think the Hybrid battery may be dead (or I may have blown a fuse(s) which will not allow me to start/drive the vehicle. If the Hybrid battery is indeed dead Is there a way to try charge it vs. having it towed to a repair shop? I would much appreciate your thoughts on this. Thanks. Chuck
  19. 2014FordFusionSE
    You can get a simple OBD II code scanner that will read codes and also reset them. $22: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Z3HB7DR?tag=caranddriver_auto-append-20&th=1
  20.    2014FordFusionSE reacted to a post in a topic: Looking for intake vacuum leak - Any ideas?
  21. 2014FordFusionSE
    My advice is to call around and get a couple more estimates. Body shop estimates are all over the place.
  22. TonyInSD started following audio upgrade while keeping ANC?
  23. TonyInSD
    I have a 2019 Ford Fusion Hybrid SE with the 9-speaker 'Sync' audio package. I would like to upgrade the sound but, from researching the system, I have many questions. First, does my car have Automatic Noise Cancellation (ANC)? I assume it does and -- if so -- I would like to keep it. (Some of the ANC discussion specifically mentions the rear 6x9 'subs' ... but my car doesn't have those.) Second, if my car has ANC, can I upgrade the sound system without disabling ANC? I have the following ideas: door speakers if I simply replace the existing speakers with after-market, will that interfere with the ANC, i.e., is ANC that specifically tuned to the original speakers? (Also, yes, I understand the issue with impedance/sensitivity/power, i.e., I would need to get high-sensitivity 2-ohm replacements. Where 'high'-sensitivity generally means less accurate, thus the common suggestion to get a new amp, too, so that you can use more-accurate lower-sensitivity replacement-speakers) amplifier if I tap the high-level speaker leads -- which presumably include the ANC-generated 'addition' -- can I safely route that to a new higher-power amplifier, i.e., without interfering with ANC functionality? Or, is the ANC function dependent somehow on the factory amp directly controlling the original speakers? subwoofer I have read lots of comments about the need to disable ANC when adding a subwoofer. And, presumably this was always from a high-level tap on one of the original speakers, i.e., with the factory ANC-signal included. Again, this would seem to indicate that ANC is highly-dependent on the original speakers and their audio properties, right? I have also read that you only need to disable the rear ANC-mic. If true, does that mean you can tap the rear-speakers' high-level signal, route it to an add-on amp/sub, while still preserving ANC functionality on the front speakers? Thank you for any suggestions or clarifications!
  24. TonyInSD TonyInSD joined the community
  25. Sky14FFH
    That's really strange because I have rarely ever gotten under 44mpg on a tank. Only highway drives out west while filling up with the terrible quality gas they have in Colorado. High altitude + highway only driving + hitting it kind of hard gave me 42mpg. My best tank was 54mpg and my worst 36 during an icy winter. I consistently fill up over 45mpg. Most fill ups are within the 46-50mpg. I guess it is comforting to know that I get better fuel economy in my fusion than a 10 year newer car. Because of that long highway trip the average on the dash stays about 47.1 exactly as the window sticker promised but it has been going up a little since. I cannot stand the screens nor the phoning home capabilities in newer cars. Oh the grand symphony practicing for their next concert at lower speeds in the newer hybrids would be extremely annoying too. That was forced on the car makers and owners by lawmakers who never actually go for walks.
  26. Cobra348
    I had issues with mileage as far back as the '17. I posted my views here at the time. Over 5 years I rarely got over 36 MPG on a tank and lifetime was abyssmal. Same routes, same driving patterns, everything. I'm already >46 MPG at 1400 miles and have registered trips as high as 58 MPG. And unlike FFH, the lane keeping actually follows the curves on an expressway! That was a nice surprise. There are drawbacks ... smaller console, general lack of storage. But I can manage with those.
  27. Sky14FFH started following Why is the Rear Body Panel on a Ford Fusion $1300?!, Time to move on., No More FFH and and 1 other
  28. Sky14FFH
    This is probably why I'll never buy a Ford again. Fords were reliable for a hot minute there 1999 to... not sure when they stopped. I am REALLY PISSED about the timing cover leak. I drive this car smooth AF and rarely if ever go above 3000rpms. America is screwed all thanks to careless stupidity. You're right. I'm on the original 11 years later and when things were sitting for a while during pandemic I got a Noco Genius 5 battery charger which seems to have kept it going 4 years later. Sorry to see you go. My friend had a 2017 Toyota corolla with climate control problems he could never solve. The pre-2016s corollas had analog climate I think. Hope the car makers will be going back to analog someday when people get fed up with the screens. That's a ticking time bomb.
  29. Sky14FFH
    Bet it reports all this back to your insurance company or LexisNexus too. So you only had your fusion for 5 years? Ah well seeya. Appreciated your input.
  30. Sky14FFH
    Yeesh 7 day warranty is a short one. They should have taken care of this before you bought it. Whistle could be from the pcv or hopefully not a crack in the intake.
  31. Sky14FFH
    So this idiot woman slammed into me with her Jeep Wrangler while I was STOPPED at a red light, AFTER RUSH HOUR, signalling to turn right, for no apparent reason at all!!! I was just about ready to go when WHUMP! At first I thought it was too low a speed to cause much damage but then the trunk swung up. Cop came, deemed her 100% at fault. Seems like her front bumper on that stupid POS Jeep is higher than the rear bumper on the Fusion and it sort of missed the bumper (behind the bumper cover) entirely. And then I get the first estimate. I couldn't believe it. It is nearly 4 times more than an accident I got into 9 years ago with another car that was much worse where the woman side swiped me and tore my front bumper off and mashed my left front fender. The repair bill for that was only $1700. What is going on?!!! Why is everything so absolutely astronomical today?! I asked them why the estimate is so freaking high. They said I need a new rear body panel. Well guess what. A 2013 - 2020 Ford Fusion rear body panel is over $1300!!!! Why?!!! WHO IS TRYING TO DESTROY MY LIFE?!!! A Focus is $280. Fiesta even cheaper at $180. FOR NEW PANELS. For a Mazda 6 a much safer car than the Ford Fusion of the same years which is comparable to the fusion is only $227.81 for a rear body panel. Camry $300. Is this Ford's fault? Apparently there is very little energy absorption in the actual bumper. It is just a solid bar bolted directly to the rear body panel without any give at all. Well guess what, there is NO DAMAGE TO THAT BAR! All the energy was transferred to the rear body panel! WHAT THE ACTUAL #$@%?!!! So it is basically a 1966 VW beetle underneath the bumper cover! Did I just run into a scam? Is this a scam being foisted on the insurance companies because they really do not give a flip as long as they can justify charging their victims higher premiums to subsidize the idiot women and cell phone texters who are going around running into people just because it gives them the chuckles?!! There are hundreds of Fusions on the road still. I see them every day hybrids and regular alike. Why would this part cost so much???
  32. dlubin
    Evidently the small amount of driving I did was enough to satisfy the car's requirement to turn off the check engine light less than 24 hours after I fixed the problem.
  33. dlubin
    I bought a spark tester at Autozone for under $15. I checked all of the coil on plug (COP) devices. Cylinders 1, 3, and 4 put out in the 40KV range. Cylinder 2 put out a very weak spark after I set the tester to about 0.05" gap. I replaced the COP with a lifetime guaranteed one from Autozone, and also replaced the Motorcraft SP-530 spark plug which was badly fouled. The car is running great now. One thing I learned is don't put much faith in doing a coil resistance test. If it turns up a resistance measurement out of limits, you may be able to assume the coil is bad. But, if the coil passes the resistance test, you cannot assume that the coil is good. The spark tester is the way to go. The check engine light stopped blinking but is still on. According to the Ford Service Manual DVD, the steady light indicates that emissions testing can be done but I'd still like the check engine light to disappear before I take it in for a smog check. The registration is due on August 8 so I don't have a huge amount of time. I found a method to get it turned off in the Owner's manual. It requires three drive cycles as follows: 15 minutes highway driving, 20 minutes stop and go driving, and then turn off the car for at least 8 hours. I don't mind the driving part but waiting for 8 hours three times will likely take a few days (I've got one cycle done to date). The guy at Autozone told me that their OBDII readers cannot clear codes but thought that disconnecting the battery would do it. I was a bit surprised if that was true as I can't see any reason why Ford would not store that data in non-volatile memory but apparently it is true based on some You Tube videos I saw. Perhaps they wanted to provide a simple way to do the code reset. That will be my last resort since I'd rather not loose the other information. Is anyone aware of a convenient way to clear the codes without a fancy instrument?
  34. Gen 1 FFH Owner started following 2011 FFH wont start, lots of alarms on dash
  35. Gen 1 FFH Owner
    Sounds like a blown pcm fuse maybe, it’s located in the fuse box under the hood not the one under the dash. Here’s a diagram of your fuse box. https://www.startmycar.com/us/ford/fusion/info/fusebox/2011#google_vignette But other than that maybe the battery wasn’t connected properly. Idk I’d take it to a mechanic if the fuse doesn’t the issue cause it sounds like an ecu/pcm issue.
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