dlubin

No, the stutter happens as ICE shuts down or turns on and is at low rpms. Giving it throttle makes the stutter go away. I am suspicious that there is a vacuum leak which overly leans out the engine at closed or near closed throttle positions. This whole issue started rather abruptly so I would not be surprised to find a loose vacuum hose or a leak somewhere between the MAF sensor and the intake valves.

My 2013 with ~140K on it started having this problem a couple of months ago. Initially I thought it might be a stuck or dirty injector. I checked the plugs and they looked perfect as far as color and gap (~40K on them). I also cleaned the MAF sensor while I was at it. I then went through 2 bottles of Techron to clean the injectors. That did not help the stuttering much but it seemed like high speed performance may be a little better. I then started thinking about what would cause this kind of low speed problem at light or no throttle. On my car I can avoid the stutter by giving it more throttle as it goes from EV to ICE. This reminded me of a problem on another car I have that turned out to be a vacuum leak. Vacuum leaks tend to have a significant effect when there is not a lot of fuel going into the engine. At more open throttle, the leak effect gets diluted by the higher volume of mixture going through the system. Now I need to get in there and search for a leak. I don't have a service manual yet so I don't know if there are any systems built into the car that may be incorrectly leaning out the mixture when it switches between ICE and EV. I'll probably start out looking for a loose hose, and then try shooting some carb cleaner around physical interfaces that lead to the intake stream and see if the engine changes speed and/or stuttering. I'm a bit surprised that a cause and solution has not been found yet.

Thanks for the tip. If it starts leaking again, I'll check it out. Perhaps one of the hose clamps is loose. Whatever it was, it seemed to have something to do with the radiator cap. After this problem had been going on for a while, I went to unscrew the cap and it fell apart. I got a replacement cap and the problem mostly went away. It currently is using the amount of coolant it takes to go from the MIN mark to the MAX mark every 2,500 - 3,000 miles.

I have not determined the source of the leak but after replacing the cap on the overflow tank, the coolant consumption went down at least 10X. As far as the inverter coolant goes, mine has always seeped a bit around the push on reservoir cap. It does not leak very much. I top it off less than once a year.

My 2013 FFH has developed a small leak near the exhaust port on the driver's side of the engine. It started out being very small, only perceptible when a drop would fall on the exhaust and produce a puff of steam that might be seen if stopped. Now I'd say it is probably using a quart every 500 miles. This is not a location I would expect to see coolant unless there was a serious problem (photos attached). Anyone with any experience or knowledge on the subject?

I have been pleased with the performance of the ACC except for one thing. It appears to be overly sensitive to bicycle riders, even if they are far off on the shoulder. When I come up on a bicycle, I often have to hit the gas pedal to keep the car from slowing down. Perhaps the guy who designed the system was an avid cyclist, and wanted to make a statement!

I'd be curious to know if anyone has had experience with HF operation in the FFH. Specifically, I'd be interested in any RFI related issues and their impact on HF operation. I've operated VHF FM from my FFH but interference is much less of an issue than for HF.

I've used an HT on 2 meters and did not notice any problems. I'd be interested in any feedback if anyone has tried HF operation in the FFH. I'm contemplating moving my HF mobile rig to the FFH if it is quiet enough. I'll need to try receiving some HF from a receiver in the car and see if it is tolerable or not.