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Guest Message by DevFuse

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Oil Change Info for 2013+ Hybrid/Energi


Best Answer FordService , 21 February 2014 - 09:21 AM

Hi everyone,

 

It appears that all of these questions you guys have thrown my way have resulted in some interesting discoveries. The oil recommendations in most of the printed materials for the 2014 Fusion Hybrid are incorrect. 5W-20 is still the recommended oil.

 

I did get complete confirmation that using 0W-20 oil is fine. It will not hurt anything and will not void your warranty, so long as you are having it changed at the appropriate intervals. 

 

I'm sorry that it took this big, drawn-out conversation to get to the bottom of this, but at least it makes sense that your oil caps say 5W-20. 

 

Thanks for all of your great questions!

 

Ashley

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187 replies to this topic

#21 OFFLINE   fusionTX

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Posted 08 February 2013 - 08:05 AM

I started out with synthetic on my Camry Hybrid, but switched over to regular oil. Much cheaper. I change every 5000 miles, which is what is recmmended on the Camry. No issues to date. Car still in great shape with 92,000 miles on it.
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#22 OFFLINE   acdii

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Posted 08 February 2013 - 02:39 PM

Here is where you do need to be careful, while under warranty, always use the oil they specify, after warranty, use what ever you want.  For the most part dealers use the correct oil, it may not be Motorcraft specific branded, but will meet of exceed the Motorcraft specs, which is Synthetic blend, or full synthetic.  While under warranty, I let them do the oil, afterwards I do my own if I want to with Mobil 1, or if I just dont feel like laying under the car, let them do it, for $20, why the hell not. 


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#23 OFFLINE   ace8726872

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Posted 24 February 2013 - 12:39 AM

In my opinion, modern day motor oil, wether conventional or synthetic, would be able to provide adequate protection in a modern engine for a good long time. What I don't trust is the filter. I am not a mechanic and I don't know too much about the car maintenance. I think of the motor oil and the filter as the blood and liver in a human body. I would think that changing the oil and filter often would probably help keep the engine better and longer. I think doing 5,000 mile changes at $30 seems reasonable. I run about 15,000 miles a year so it will cost me just under $100 per year which is not bad. Paying anything over seems to me like I am spending all of the money that I saved from hybrid system into a motor oil which are produced by the same greedy oil companies. One question I have is about the Atkinson cycle engine. I remember that different types of engines had difference effect in motor oil. For example, Mazda's rotary engine was designed to burn small amount of oil to lubricate and preserve the apex seals and the cylinder walls. I may be completely off but the piston movement in the Atkinson engine looks a little similar to the wankel rotary engine. I am afraid that Atkinson engine behaves differently than the traditional four stroke engines. When in doubt, I think it makes sense to play it safe and change the oil a bit more often.

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#24 OFFLINE   hermans

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Posted 24 February 2013 - 07:21 AM

I have always followed the manufacture's recommendations. On the FFH, Ford says every 12 months or 10,000 miles and I will follow that.


Edited by hermans, 24 February 2013 - 07:21 AM.

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#25 OFFLINE   acdii

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Posted 24 February 2013 - 12:34 PM

As I mentioned before, if you really want to know how well your oil and filter is working, have an analysis done on the oil. Once you have a couple of those done, you will know exactly when oil should be changed and how long it will last.  In the long run the $20 you spend on the analysis can save you hundreds during the life of the car, and it will last just as long.  When running a Diesel, with oil changes costing upwards of $80 a pop, you want to do it was few times as you can. 4 gallons of oil every 3000 miles gets mighty damned expensive, especially since it lasts 3 times that.

 

Using a good filter, like Motorcraft or WIX, and staying away from Fram, you can rest assured you have the best filter available, that will last the recommended change interval.

 

Thing to note, there are  only a couple manufacturers if oil filters, one factory makes filters for multiple brands. Mobil one filters are identical to John Deere filters, and I would not be surprised if K&N filters are from the same plant.  Motorcraft and WIX(Napa) filters come from the same plant.

 

I once had a TCH and did an oil change on it, bought a Mobil 1 filter. I also had to do an oil change on my John Deere Garden Tractor. It uses a spin on oil filter. The Mobil 1 filter cost me about $11, the John Deere, from the Deere parts counter cost $7. I pulled them each out of the box, they were identical in shape, size, threads, drain holes. Then I looked at the part number stamped on the housing. They were the same part number, only the date stamp was different.


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#26 OFFLINE   storksb

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Posted 25 February 2013 - 06:02 PM

I have never understood this 3000 mile oil change interval that persists here in the States. I drive cars in Europe for 15 years and the shortest oil change interval 20years ago was 7500 miles. I'll be going the full 10000 on my Fusion unless the computer tells me otherwise.


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#27 OFFLINE   GrySql

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Posted 26 February 2013 - 04:17 PM

Had the car's first oil change today at 4011 miles on the odometer.

The ICE has about 3k miles, the other being EV.

The oil level on the dipstick was down about 1/4 from the 'full' level.

 

A friend's shop did the work and they let me watch and walk under the car while it was on the hoist.

I printed out jeff_h's oil change guide from the original post just to follow along as they did the work.  Thanks Jeff!

This was my tech's second '13 FFH so he was up on the procedures.

Besides the Torx screws my car has two additional 'clips' on the outboard front sides of the panel, removed by a screwdriver slipped under them.

 

I was glad that I had the oil changed.

While the mod one eyeball is not an official test method the oil looked just a trifle dirty to me, compared to fresh oil.

I know they run these engines before installing them in the cars but I don't think an old time 'break-in' oil change can hurt.

I used to change the oil at 500 and 1000 miles on a new car, so this is late for me.

 

For me, who has owned rear wheel drive vehicles for the last 25 years, it was interesting to look at.

One thing I noticed was the single exhaust pipe w/Cat running down the center line of the car. 

The area under the cabin is well shielded from heat by a layer of AL heat matting, no hot floorboards in this car.

The suspension looks robust and the underside is streamlined for airflow.

I re-set the Oil Life to 100% using the left display when we were done.

I can stop worrying about it for a long while now. 

 

I did have the shop note the type of oil and filter I provided on the job receipt, in case Ford wants to know at some later date.


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#28 OFFLINE   jeff_h

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Posted 26 February 2013 - 04:24 PM

I printed out jeff_h's oil change guide from the original post just to follow along as they did the work.  Thanks Jeff!

This was my tech's second '13 FFH so he was up on the procedures.

Besides the Torx screws my car has two additional 'clips' on the outboard front sides of the panel, removed by a screwdriver slipped under them.

 

Yeah I also had the two plastic clips on mine, and after messing with them with the screwdriver for 1-2 minutes trying to get them loose figured what the heck are these needed for when there are almost a dozen torx screws holding this thing up, figured they were clips used in assembly to quickly put the shield in place and then install the screws.  So after those couple minutes one of the clips came right off and the other would not come off so I just busted the clip off, said no way I'm gonna mess with these stinkin' things every time.


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#29 OFFLINE   markdavidsmith

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Posted 09 April 2013 - 11:12 AM

One note if you are doing your own oil changes: 

Once you take the underside cover off to access the filter and draing plug, DO NOT drive the car before putting the cover back in place.  The rear screws on the cover also hold on the front part of an aluminum shield around the catalytic converter, and if you drive with them off then the catalytic cover will drop down, scrap the road, and loudly announce to the whole world that you screwed up.


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#30 OFFLINE   markdavidsmith

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Posted 09 April 2013 - 11:12 AM

One note if you are doing your own oil changes: 

Once you take the underside cover off to access the filter and draing plug, DO NOT drive the car before putting the cover back in place.  The rear screws on the cover also hold on the front part of an aluminum shield around the catalytic converter, and if you drive with them off then the catalytic cover will drop down, scrap the road, and loudly announce to the whole world that you screwed up.



#31 OFFLINE   neod192

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Posted 09 April 2013 - 11:32 AM

One note if you are doing your own oil changes: 

Once you take the underside cover off to access the filter and draing plug, DO NOT drive the car before putting the cover back in place.  The rear screws on the cover also hold on the front part of an aluminum shield around the catalytic converter, and if you drive with them off then the catalytic cover will drop down, scrap the road, and loudly announce to the whole world that you screwed up.

I'll take it that you're talking from experience? lol :)


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#32 OFFLINE   corncobs

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Posted 09 May 2013 - 05:56 PM

OK sitting at my dealer waiting on the Lady in Red getting her oil changed.
Nice part it's complementary;
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#33 OFFLINE   tr7driver

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Posted 10 May 2013 - 09:24 AM

When you change your oil, while you have the underside cover off, take a grease pencil and write you name and phone number on the inside of it.  If one of the kids at a quick change place ever forgets to reinstall the cover, they can at least contact you and return it when they realize what happened.



#34 OFFLINE   acdii

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Posted 10 May 2013 - 02:44 PM

OK sitting at my dealer waiting on the Lady in Red getting her oil changed.
Nice part it's complementary;

Which dealer did you get it from? Mchenry, or woodstock? 


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#35 OFFLINE   corncobs

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Posted 10 May 2013 - 03:38 PM

Which dealer did you get it from? Mchenry, or woodstock? 


Wickstrom; Barrington

I driving by there every day so it's works out quit well for quick pit stops.
I also like there service department a lot; they took good care of my wife's Explorer with a bad transmission and ABS sensor; all done under warranty.
I just need to bring it back since the transmission is acting funny again.
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#36 OFFLINE   acdii

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Posted 10 May 2013 - 03:51 PM

LOL I was there today checking out a Cmax Energi!  The gray one had a dead battery, so looked at a white one, just posted a thread on it too. 


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#37 OFFLINE   corncobs

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Posted 10 May 2013 - 04:20 PM

I figured that since my sales guy showed what he had one the lot in terms of Energi models; not quite sure why but when you mentioned that you went and looked at one I figured you went to Wickstrom.

They had a nice RR HyTi there yesterday; special order for soon to be or already happy customer. They can't get enough hybrids I think they had 1 FFH and 1 FFE
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#38 OFFLINE   acdii

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Posted 10 May 2013 - 10:13 PM

The sales guy though sounded like he really didnt want to sell me an Energi, quoting it takes 12 hours to charge and that you need a $4000 charger if you want to charge it faster, and kept saying that they could not sell enough Energi to pay for the charging stations they had to install.

 

He gave me a brochure for the Cmax, and when I looked at it later found it didn't have anything on the Energi. He gave me the wrong one.  He sold my Father in law a Cmax, and my FIL has been buying from them for decades.


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#39 OFFLINE   corncobs

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Posted 10 May 2013 - 10:25 PM

I was told the same about not selling to many Energi's; there was a black one which they sold recently; it's was my FFH little brother with the sequence VIN # to mine. They came together one the train from Mexico.
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#40 OFFLINE   hybridbear

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Posted 11 May 2013 - 09:39 PM

Your comment makes it sound like the dealer is complaining that no one will buy Energi models, correct? Maybe they could sell some to pay for their chargers if they learned what they were talking about and correctly promoted them to consumers. When someone comes in to look at an Edge or an Escape, for example, they could also make sure the customer is aware of the C-Max Hybrid and Energi and tout the benefits of electrification to help them sell more...

 

And, like my thread about Ford's marketing, some of the blame rests with Ford corporate

The sales guy though sounded like he really didnt want to sell me an Energi, quoting it takes 12 hours to charge and that you need a $4000 charger if you want to charge it faster, and kept saying that they could not sell enough Energi to pay for the charging stations they had to install.


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