Misfiring Cylinders, Burning Electrical Smell :(

[bigb252]

So it happened. I just finished putting air in my tire, and was accelerating to about 30,35 mph. The next thing I know, the car starts sputtering, and limping (it felt like a flat tire). I look at my dash - no lights, no warning chimes, nothing. I limped my car into an empty parking lot, turned off the car, and turned it back on. Put some gas in(it was low). Started and stopped the car probably 6 or 7 times throughout the day, no problems...

 

Then it happened again. I was stopped on an incline, and the RPMs dropped to about 550. It felt as if the car wanted to cut out. Turned it off, restarted it. The engine light came on steady. Stopped for some groceries on my way home. Went I started my car for the final time, I smelt something like an electrical fire. Engine light blinking. Slowly but hastily rushed home.

 

I consulted my instruction manual only to find out that it might be a cylinder is misfiring - and it sure does feel like it. Probably even 2 or more cylinders.

 

Anybody have any guesstimates of how much this would cost me? If its too much, I might have to take a loss and sell the car :(

 

2006 SE v6, 42k miles

[xmech2k]

My inlaws ran their car out of gas once, and right after that it ran like crap. On a hunch I replaced the fuel filter, thinking it sucked up crap from the bottom of the tank, and it fixed it. Just an idea. That was an older car. I guess on the newer cars, they are supposed to be 'lifetime' filters, but I guess it could happen. There are plenty of other things that might cause your problem, but you mentioned you were really low on gas. Come to think of it, does this fuel injection system need to have the air bled out if you run out of gas? Check the owners manual. I have a 4 cyl 2010, so I don't know about your engine.

 

Also, the required question: Have you been keeping up on scheduled maintenance? Those same in-laws once ran their car completely out of oil, and wondered what's wrong...

[drolds1]

Without knowing what's wrong, it's not possible to estimate what it will cost to fix, especially over the Internet.

 

One thing is certain, though. You need to get this looked at ASAP. Driving for too long with a misfire will damage your catalytic converter(s) and that will get very costly.

[bigb252]

The car was low on gas - but not too low. The trip computer said about 38 miles to E, and it was smidge under quarter tank (I get about 200 miles a tank, 50 miles to a quarter-mark on the fuel gauge). So my Fuel Level Low warning comes on at quarter tank.

 

The owners manual states nothing about bleeding the fuel system :(

 

I just had the car serviced in May. Its heading to a mechanic of mines tomorrow.

[redfire06]

you're only getting 200 miles to a tank? that could be an indication to a problem there. was the check engine light on? either way have someone look at soon, letting it go only makes it more expensive in the end, and it could be something really simple as well

[bigb252]

you're only getting 200 miles to a tank? that could be an indication to a problem there. was the check engine light on? either way have someone look at soon, letting it go only makes it more expensive in the end, and it could be something really simple as well

 

 

Actually, 200 miles to the tank for a 3.0 is pretty normal. Where I live its VERY hilly and mountainous, and the stoplights every 600 feet don't help.

 

When I was driving the car home for the last time, the engine light was blinking.

[jazztrumpet216]

Actually, 200 miles to the tank for a 3.0 is pretty normal. Where I live its VERY hilly and mountainous, and the stoplights every 600 feet don't help.

 

When I was driving the car home for the last time, the engine light was blinking.

 

That means you're already having catalytic converter problems. You're not supposed to drive it when the check engine light blinks- you should pull over immediately and shut the car off. You may have done irreparable damage to the converter.

 

I can guarantee you this is stated in the owner's manual.

[akirby]

That means you're already having catalytic converter problems. You're not supposed to drive it when the check engine light blinks- you should pull over immediately and shut the car off. You may have done irreparable damage to the converter.

 

I can guarantee you this is stated in the owner's manual.

 

Driving it home a short distance with the light blinking probably didn't hurt anything. Continuing to drive it day after day with a blinking light will most definitely ruin the cats.

 

Quote from the OM:

 

If the light is blinking, engine misfire is occurring which could

damage your catalytic converter. Drive in a moderate fashion (avoid

heavy acceleration and deceleration) and have your vehicle serviced

immediately by your authorized dealer.

[Oldguy16]

Who knows even, if a cylinder is misfiring, or 2, maybe the wires of spark plugs got damaged and are being crossed somewhere. So it only touches at certain times. I mean I'm sure this is unlikely. See what your mechanic says, remember powertrain warranty is 5 year 60k miles, so you should still be ok, hopefully.

[drolds1]

Who knows even, if a cylinder is misfiring, or 2, maybe the wires of spark plugs got damaged and are being crossed somewhere. So it only touches at certain times. I mean I'm sure this is unlikely. See what your mechanic says, remember powertrain warranty is 5 year 60k miles, so you should still be ok, hopefully.

 

The Duratec 3.0 has coil-on-plug (COP) ignition. There are no spark plug wires per se.

 

A bad COP can definitely cause a misfire condition.

[Oldguy16]

The Duratec 3.0 has coil-on-plug (COP) ignition. There are no spark plug wires per se.

 

A bad COP can definitely cause a misfire condition.

Well yea, most new cars have coil overs but there's still electric that runs to them, which is why it's very unlikely. Not like old cars.

[drolds1]

Well yea, most new cars have coil overs but there's still electric that runs to them, which is why it's very unlikely. Not like old cars.

 

Hence, my use of the term "spark plug wires per se."

[bigb252]

Hence, my use of the term "spark plug wires per se."

 

Doubt I did much damage to the converter - my drive home was under 2 miles away / about 7 or 8 minutes.

 

I started the car yesterday, it idles at about 750RPM in park. Put it in drive and it goes lower to about 675RPM? I drove it around a bit, enough to get the engine warmed up. The engine light no longer blinks, although its lit steady (I think it would be until I clear the codes).

 

The car hesitates until about 2000RPM, and it gets better and drives as if nothing happens until it shifts or until you slow down. Its having trouble under load or when I'm going uphill.

 

I'll drive it to my mechanic tomorrow and have him have a look at it. Catching the public transportation here sucks!!

 

**You should see what a Quadcab Silverado 2500HD longbed truck gets for its MPG!! Yikes!!**

[bigb252]

Ok. I pulled the fault codes and they read as Ignition Coil 1 and 2 malfunction.

 

Where can I buy these parts? Aside from the dealership?

[Oldguy16]

Ok. I pulled the fault codes and they read as Ignition Coil 1 and 2 malfunction.

 

Where can I buy these parts? Aside from the dealership?

Any auto parts store that has the part. Strauss, Autozone, Napa, Pep Boys, just make sure it's and OEM replacement cause you don't want the coils to be different at all.

[bigb252]

Any auto parts store that has the part. Strauss, Autozone, Napa, Pep Boys, just make sure it's and OEM replacement cause you don't want the coils to be different at all.

 

Gotcha. I'll go ahead and get 2 of them and then tow the car to my mechanic to see what he can do. Do you know if its only 2 I have to buy, or is it a whole set?

[JB06]

You should be just fine to replace just the two, but like the other guys said, make sure they are OEM. Also, I believe 1,2, and 3 coils are under the intake manifold, so that would be extra labor time.

[xmech2k]

Been a few days. Are you up and running?

[bigb252]

I use it almost everyday now...I have class and work, and my mother needs her vehicle now that school is starting back up.

 

I got the parts, its going to the shop tomorrow!! Can't wait!!

 

They are OEM Motorcraft from teamfordparts.com