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Buying new FFH...What's the process like?

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So, my wife and I are selling our HCH and buying a FFH in a few months. I'm wondering what the process is like because I've never bought a new car and we are most likely going to custom order one. How long does the whole process take, what are the steps involved, and how much money should I be ready with for a deposit when it comes time to order? Any other tips would be much appreciated as well.

 

Rob

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So, my wife and I are selling our HCH and buying a FFH in a few months. I'm wondering what the process is like because I've never bought a new car and we are most likely going to custom order one. How long does the whole process take, what are the steps involved, and how much money should I be ready with for a deposit when it comes time to order? Any other tips would be much appreciated as well.

 

Rob

Get a dollar figure in mind before you go. First, plug in your desired model and options in at Edmunds.com and get a feel for what others are paying. A lot of people on this board used the "X-plan" to get a good deal. (Do a search on this site to get more details). I was lucky, I didn't need to do that, my dealer offered up a good price pretty easily.

 

For me, I had to put down a $500 deposit at the time I placed an order. Figure 6-10 weeks from the order time until delivery. The waiting is tough:). If you aren't too picky, you can probably find one on the lot somewhere close to you and not have to wait (you can search new inventory on cars.com).

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So, my wife and I are selling our HCH and buying a FFH in a few months. I'm wondering what the process is like because I've never bought a new car and we are most likely going to custom order one. How long does the whole process take, what are the steps involved, and how much money should I be ready with for a deposit when it comes time to order? Any other tips would be much appreciated as well.

 

Rob

 

I went to my Credit Union which has a buying service. If you use their service they give to a discount on the loan even if you don't buy a car they find and they got a couple hundred off the list price. They found me what I wanted. I took a ride to the dealer, he showed me what he had in stock (not much only 2) and a list of what was coming in. I picked the one i wanted and they reviewed my trade in. I said I wanted it. they didn't require a deposit because I went through the CU. Waited a couple of months until it was delivered. And picked it up they day after it was at the dealer. I don't think I was at the dealer for more than 20 minutes.

 

All in all a perfect buy.

 

Could I have shopped around and saved a couple of bucks? Maybe. But then they were very new (March 09) and didn't stay on the lot long. Now may be different.

 

Whatever you do I believe you will find this is one exceptional car.

 

Good Luck.

 

Dan

Edited by dogo88

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I went to my Credit Union which has a buying service. If you use their service they give to a discount on the loan even if you don't buy a car they find and they got a couple hundred off the list price. They found me what I wanted. I took a ride to the dealer, he showed me what he had in stock (not much only 2) and a list of what was coming in. I picked the one i wanted and they reviewed my trade in. I said I wanted it. they didn't require a deposit because I went through the CU. Waited a couple of months until it was delivered. And picked it up they day after it was at the dealer. I don't think I was at the dealer for more than 20 minutes.

 

All in all a perfect buy.

 

Could I have shopped around and saved a couple of bucks? Maybe. But then they were very new (March 09) and didn't stay on the lot long. Now may be different.

 

Whatever you do I believe you will find this is one exceptional car.

 

Good Luck.

 

Dan

 

 

I went in expecting to buy a Ford Escape (Non Hybrid) and left at 10:00 at night with a FFH. I paid about 31.5k fully loaded, the biggest issue was getting the finance taking care of, I almost walked out 3 times before they offered me 4.1 APR for 66 months. Though this was also back in Oct. before the car won a bazillion awards.

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Get a dollar figure in mind before you go. First, plug in your desired model and options in at Edmunds.com and get a feel for what others are paying. A lot of people on this board used the "X-plan" to get a good deal. (Do a search on this site to get more details). I was lucky, I didn't need to do that, my dealer offered up a good price pretty easily.

 

For me, I had to put down a $500 deposit at the time I placed an order. Figure 6-10 weeks from the order time until delivery. The waiting is tough:). If you aren't too picky, you can probably find one on the lot somewhere close to you and not have to wait (you can search new inventory on cars.com).

 

I looked into the X-plan some, but don't really know how to go about getting a pin for it. As far as the car we want, we're very picky. We want the Nav without leather seats...seems impossible to find at the dealer. Also want a particular color. We're actually pretty disappointed with the color selection...not much to choose from. I've been using truecar.com to check out what people have been paying for their particular models around here, so I was going to use that as a reference when I actually go to negotiate with the dealer. But, if the X-plan will get me a good price without negotiation, maybe I could just do that. Do you know if the $500 deposit is typical? That is a lot lower than I figured it to be, but I'm ok with that. We're planning on coming to the table with about $22K by the time August rolls around...so I guess the deposit is nothing to worry about.

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I looked into the X-plan some, but don't really know how to go about getting a pin for it. As far as the car we want, we're very picky. We want the Nav without leather seats...seems impossible to find at the dealer. Also want a particular color. We're actually pretty disappointed with the color selection...not much to choose from. I've been using truecar.com to check out what people have been paying for their particular models around here, so I was going to use that as a reference when I actually go to negotiate with the dealer. But, if the X-plan will get me a good price without negotiation, maybe I could just do that. Do you know if the $500 deposit is typical? That is a lot lower than I figured it to be, but I'm ok with that. We're planning on coming to the table with about $22K by the time August rolls around...so I guess the deposit is nothing to worry about.

 

If you are looking to obtain an X-Pin, you need to post a request on the Blue Oval Forums, google X-Plan Pin Blue Oval.

The Hybrids are over 30 grand, I don't see how you can get one for 22k. To see dealer inventory and actual window stickers go here:

 

http://www.shoppingtools.fordvehicles.com/HomePage?&branding=3&referringSite=5&referrer=SE-Google&lang=en&redirectPage=

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If you are looking to obtain an X-Pin, you need to post a request on the Blue Oval Forums, google X-Plan Pin Blue Oval.

The Hybrids are over 30 grand, I don't see how you can get one for 22k. To see dealer inventory and actual window stickers go here:

 

http://www.shoppingtools.fordvehicles.com/HomePage?&branding=3&referringSite=5&referrer=SE-Google&lang=en&redirectPage=

By coming to the table, I mean I will have about $22K cash in hand...so I will be financing the remaining $8-10K. I would never in my wildest dreams hope to get one for only $22K...but that would be absolutely amazing. Thanks for the tip about the X-plan pin. Is this a legit way to get a pin? It seems that Ford would frown upon this... Any idea how long it takes to get one usually?

 

Rob

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By coming to the table, I mean I will have about $22K cash in hand...so I will be financing the remaining $8-10K. I would never in my wildest dreams hope to get one for only $22K...but that would be absolutely amazing. Thanks for the tip about the X-plan pin. Is this a legit way to get a pin? It seems that Ford would frown upon this... Any idea how long it takes to get one usually?

 

Rob

 

That's why Ford gives them to the employees - to encourage friends and family members to buy Fords. Online "friends" count too.

You can only post the request and hope a Ford employee who has a PIN gives you one - it's up to them and they only have a limited number to give out each year. Might take 10 minutes, or a couple of days, or a few weeks or never. But it doesn't hurt to ask.

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I heard that Ford no longer permits "Forum Friends" eligibility for PINs. The following statement has been added to the plan rules:

 

"Sponsors must know the individuals they are sponsoring."

 

There have been problems with misuse of the plan and the employee/retiree/partner is responsible for the PIN reciepients actiions.

 

The better strategy might be to buy some Ford stock (F) and apply to Stockholder Relations for an x-plan PIN.The savings would likely pay for the stock.

 

Did you guys see that the administrative fees for 2010 can go as high as $275 (2009 and prior they were $75.) DOC fees still limited to $75,

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The company I retired from is no longer on Fords list. Even though it is on a very old list posted in Fords site, when I got to the down and dirty, I found that they are no longer a favored company.

 

Even if they were, the process is not longer as easy as it was when I purchased my MKZ. At that time, all I did was to phone

Friends and Family X-Plan at 1-800-348-7709 (or was it 1-800-392-3673) and I gave them the company I retired from, my in company ID number, and perhaps, some other information, and they gave me a PIN.

 

Does not work like this anymore. Now, you have to get a company "Partner Code" direct from your company, then you have to enter the information in a Ford website. It took me a long time to find out that my former company is no longer a Ford Partner.

 

Good Luck

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Sounds like I could just be getting my hopes up for nothing. Anyone know anything about Ford offering military discounts? I've seen before that they offer one but not on their hybrid vehicles...which would do me absolutely no good. Hopefully this "must actually know the person" thing doesn't get in the way of a possible X-plan deal. Anyone know how to see the list of Ford's partners? Maybe I just happen to know someone that works for a partner company...

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Partner company won't work unless someone with the same address as you works for the "partner". You need to show the driver's licenses.

 

The Ford Hybrids have a $1,000 incentive if you currently own a Toyota, Honda, and others. See your dealership for details.

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I heard that Ford no longer permits "Forum Friends" eligibility for PINs. The following statement has been added to the plan rules:

 

"Sponsors must know the individuals they are sponsoring."

 

There have been problems with misuse of the plan and the employee/retiree/partner is responsible for the PIN reciepients actiions.

 

The better strategy might be to buy some Ford stock (F) and apply to Stockholder Relations for an x-plan PIN.The savings would likely pay for the stock.

 

Did you guys see that the administrative fees for 2010 can go as high as $275 (2009 and prior they were $75.) DOC fees still limited to $75,

 

Ford now requires you to have owned a minimum of 100 shares of F for a minimum of 6 months before Ford Stockholder Relations is allowed to sponsor you with an x-plan PIN. With Ford shares trading so much higher than they did a while back, 100 shares would be in the $1050-1100 range which still may not be a bad investment since I am a bit bullish on the future of Ford stock(I have owned a small amount for a few years). On top of that, it will still get you a really good price on future hot selling Ford vehicles as they come out. I suspect that the new 2011 Mustang is going to be a pretty hot commodity, and who knows what you'll want to buy in a few years from now.

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Sounds like I could just be getting my hopes up for nothing. Anyone know anything about Ford offering military discounts? I've seen before that they offer one but not on their hybrid vehicles...which would do me absolutely no good. Hopefully this "must actually know the person" thing doesn't get in the way of a possible X-plan deal. Anyone know how to see the list of Ford's partners? Maybe I just happen to know someone that works for a partner company...

 

 

I believe if you are a Costco member you are eligible for a discount on a number of makes. Your best bet in obtaining an X-Plan pin is towards the last days at the end of the year. Yes, I know that is a long way off and you may want to purchase now. You can purchase a new car pricing report from Consumer Reports for $14. The report will list "true dealer cost" as well as any dealer "hold backs" and any cash back or bonus cash in effect. The report can help you in the negotiation process.

 

It seems that (based on my perusing the Blue Oval forum) Ford employees may be more inclined to give any extra (they get six) left over pins to potential purchasers of Fusion/Milan/MKZ models. The reason being, in my opinion, is that it is beneficial for Ford to beat the Camry/Accord duo in sales as this will benefit the corporation as a whole. However defeating the Camry as far as this year is concerned should not be particularly difficult for Ford being that Toyota is having their "unintended acceleration" issues now.

 

If you do get an X-Plan pin sponsor they will ask you for your full name and address as well as model of vehicle and last four social.

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I heard that Ford no longer permits "Forum Friends" eligibility for PINs. The following statement has been added to the plan rules:

 

"Sponsors must know the individuals they are sponsoring."

 

There have been problems with misuse of the plan and the employee/retiree/partner is responsible for the PIN reciepients actiions.

 

Did you guys see that the administrative fees for 2010 can go as high as $275 (2009 and prior they were $75.) DOC fees still limited to $75,

 

Pretty sure that statement has been there for awhile, but there are still employees giving out PINS on BON. I figure it's up to them to know the rules (or suffer the consequences).

 

The $275 administrative fee is already included in the X plan price (invoice - 0.4% + $275). So it's still X plan + $75 doc fee - the x plan price is just higher now.

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You can purchase a new car pricing report from Consumer Reports for $14. The report will list "true dealer cost" as well as any dealer "hold backs" and any cash back or bonus cash in effect. The report can help you in the negotiation process.

 

I just use truecar.com for this. It's updated frequently, has local sales info and it's free.

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I just use truecar.com for this. It's updated frequently, has local sales info and it's free.

 

Dealer invoice pricing is available everywhere including kbb.com and edmunds.com. You just have to add in the advertising fee (FDAF) which is a few hundred dollars per vehicle since that varies by vehicle and by location. Holdback on Fords has typically been 3% but you don't really need to know that. You should negotiate based on the actual dealer invoice price (+ or - $xxx). Before I had a regular salesperson and dealership I would simply call the sales mgr, tell them what I wanted and ask how much over invoice they wanted for it. Most would tell me straight up. E.g. I called about a 93 Explorer and was immediately told $500 over invoice for the 2wd XLT model which was really popular. If I wanted a 4wd or Eddie Bauer they would come down a little more. It was fast and easy. If the sales mgr wouldn't answer the question directly then it wasn't a dealership I was interested in doing business with.

 

Anywhere from dealer invoice to invoice + $500 is a good deal on most vehicles depending on supply and demand. You might get below invoice in rare circumstances. Dealers need to feed their families too you know.

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We have one on order. The Dealereship met me right in the middle, between MSRP & Dealer Cost as shown on Edmunds or True Car. It is much harder to get any deals on the Hybrid. I ordered on January 18th. Salesman told us about 8 weeks.

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I don't know if you're still looking to buy a FFH or if you've already bought one, but I bought one this week for a pretty good price. I bought one with the 502A package and factory installed remote start for $28,000. The sticker price was well over $33,000. Bank of America offered the best interest rate by far at 2.89% for 60 mo (I also looked at rates from my credit union, Capital One, Chase, and Citibank -other financial institutions I do business with), so if you plan to finance, you might want to check them out. The loan process was simple and fast.

 

The car-buying process, on the other hand, was extremely painful, but I got what I wanted. Initially, I worked with one dealership and told them that I wanted to buy the car with package/ features X, and pay $Y. They of course balked and I walked away. I very nicely told them that if they get a used one in or later found that they could come down to $Y (which was $28k for me), to please give me a call. A week and a half later, they called. It was the end of the month (they said they needed my business to meet a quota), and while they were willing to talk, they weren't coming down as low as I needed them to. Finally, after days of negotiation over the phone (try to get as much as you can done via email to save you time and to give you something in writing!), they agreed. Unfortunately, they wanted to charge about $500 more for silver, the color I wanted, and wouldn't budge off $28,500. So I emailed another dealership that had the color that I wanted, told them about the other dealership's offer and told them they could have my business if they had the color, options, and price that I wanted. I asked that they contact me if they could either match the other dealer's offer with a remote start or beat it. They haggled with me, called off the deal, then called me back and said they could let me have it for $Y + $900, then emailed me back and said I could have it for $28k without the remote, tried everything, but I wanted what I wanted. Eventually, they caved and I got the car in silver with the options that I wanted at the price that I wanted.

 

Both dealers reneged on their offers at some point. They told me one thing over the phone and another thing when I got there. I learned the second time though, and with the second dealer, did everything by email. When they tried to change the deal after I finally came in, I showed them the emails on my phone. In the end, they wanted my business so they did right by me, but without those emails, I'm sure it would have been even more of a headache to get the deal that I wanted.

 

Long story short - go in with a number. Negotiate via email if possible, but do your best to stick to your number. If no one bites, wait for a used one to crop up or for the 2011s to come out and see if you can get the deal you want on a 2010 then.

 

Good luck.

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I don't know if you're still looking to buy a FFH or if you've already bought one, but I bought one this week for a pretty good price. I bought one with the 502A package and factory installed remote start for $28,000. The sticker price was well over $33,000. Bank of America offered the best interest rate by far at 2.89% for 60 mo (I also looked at rates from my credit union, Capital One, Chase, and Citibank -other financial institutions I do business with), so if you plan to finance, you might want to check them out. The loan process was simple and fast.

 

The car-buying process, on the other hand, was extremely painful, but I got what I wanted. Initially, I worked with one dealership and told them that I wanted to buy the car with package/ features X, and pay $Y. They of course balked and I walked away. I very nicely told them that if they get a used one in or later found that they could come down to $Y (which was $28k for me), to please give me a call. A week and a half later, they called. It was the end of the month (they said they needed my business to meet a quota), and while they were willing to talk, they weren't coming down as low as I needed them to. Finally, after days of negotiation over the phone (try to get as much as you can done via email to save you time and to give you something in writing!), they agreed. Unfortunately, they wanted to charge about $500 more for silver, the color I wanted, and wouldn't budge off $28,500. So I emailed another dealership that had the color that I wanted, told them about the other dealership's offer and told them they could have my business if they had the color, options, and price that I wanted. I asked that they contact me if they could either match the other dealer's offer with a remote start or beat it. They haggled with me, called off the deal, then called me back and said they could let me have it for $Y + $900, then emailed me back and said I could have it for $28k without the remote, tried everything, but I wanted what I wanted. Eventually, they caved and I got the car in silver with the options that I wanted at the price that I wanted.

 

Both dealers reneged on their offers at some point. They told me one thing over the phone and another thing when I got there. I learned the second time though, and with the second dealer, did everything by email. When they tried to change the deal after I finally came in, I showed them the emails on my phone. In the end, they wanted my business so they did right by me, but without those emails, I'm sure it would have been even more of a headache to get the deal that I wanted.

 

Long story short - go in with a number. Negotiate via email if possible, but do your best to stick to your number. If no one bites, wait for a used one to crop up or for the 2011s to come out and see if you can get the deal you want on a 2010 then.

 

Good luck.

I don't have as much room to negotiate on mine. We want specific options that don't just come from the factory very often (501A package with Nav...no leather seats). So, we've basically decided that we have to order from the factory, which I think hurts our ability to negotiate a bit. We've decided to use an X-plan pin and we can get the specific car we want for $30K...not nearly as good of a deal as yours, but I think it could do. I may just throw out some e-mails to others dealers that I haven't spoken with yet and see what they can offer. If I could find a deal as good as yours, I'd throw the x-plan idea out the window.

 

Was yours used or new? I just can't see how a dealer was willing to take such a loss on a car for you. Did you have a trade-in that they bartered with or something? They had to have something to go off of....

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Sullied, might it be worth it to just get the leather seats and buy covers for them if you're not a fan of leather? That would give you more room to negotiate if the 502A package is more plentiful on lots than the 501 package. Just a thought.

 

I bought mine new, no trade. Both dealers wanted me to trade, but I was adamant about keeping my car and selling it myself. Why let the dealer have the profit if I can wait a while for the money and sell it myself?

 

I think they took the loss on the one they sold me because I was able to use another dealer's offer against another. The first dealer didn't offer me $28,000 until about two weeks after I first visited their lot. It's the end of the month, and the tax credit is phasing out this month, so maybe that was motivation for them. The first dealer told me that they had a quota to meet this month and had to get a certain number of FFHs off the lot. They only came down to $28,000 because I was firm the entire time about how much I was willing to spend. I didn't get attached, wasn't in a hurry, and didn't compromise on the price. Let them know you aren't counting on their financing and that you're ready to deal provided they're ready to give you what you want. Put the ball in their court.

 

I have to admit, the second dealer was skeptical about the deal the first offered me. They were baffled at how they could sell the car for only $28k. They insisted that I provide them with emails from the other dealer naming the price and showing that they offered me a FFH with the 502A package. I was able to forward the second dealer the emails from the first dealer and they made the deal (but not without first trying to increase the price once I came in. That's when emails from the second dealer agreeing to the $28k came in handy).

 

Report back and let us know what you end up doing! Do it this month if you can so that you can qualify for what's left of the tax credit. Play hard, they do. You can get it for $28k.

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Sullied, might it be worth it to just get the leather seats and buy covers for them if you're not a fan of leather? That would give you more room to negotiate if the 502A package is more plentiful on lots than the 501 package. Just a thought.

 

I bought mine new, no trade. Both dealers wanted me to trade, but I was adamant about keeping my car and selling it myself. Why let the dealer have the profit if I can wait a while for the money and sell it myself?

 

I think they took the loss on the one they sold me because I was able to use another dealer's offer against another. The first dealer didn't offer me $28,000 until about two weeks after I first visited their lot. It's the end of the month, and the tax credit is phasing out this month, so maybe that was motivation for them. The first dealer told me that they had a quota to meet this month and had to get a certain number of FFHs off the lot. They only came down to $28,000 because I was firm the entire time about how much I was willing to spend. I didn't get attached, wasn't in a hurry, and didn't compromise on the price. Let them know you aren't counting on their financing and that you're ready to deal provided they're ready to give you what you want. Put the ball in their court.

 

I have to admit, the second dealer was skeptical about the deal the first offered me. They were baffled at how they could sell the car for only $28k. They insisted that I provide them with emails from the other dealer naming the price and showing that they offered me a FFH with the 502A package. I was able to forward the second dealer the emails from the first dealer and they made the deal (but not without first trying to increase the price once I came in. That's when emails from the second dealer agreeing to the $28k came in handy).

 

Report back and let us know what you end up doing! Do it this month if you can so that you can qualify for what's left of the tax credit. Play hard, they do. You can get it for $28k.

Any idea about negotiations on a car ordered from the factory?? I'm firm on my options (no leather with navigation). It's not a comfort in the sun thing for me...my wife has personal feelings against leather, so seat covers wouldn't be an option for us. I'm curious if I could get as good of a deal as you if we order from the factory. I know it's worth a shot to try...so I'm going to try the same route you did and e-mail a couple of dealers for quotes and stand at a firm price of $28K...just as you did. Unfortunately, I can't use my original dealer since I already told him that I'd be using X-plan if I purchased through them...and he knows that we are very excited about the car and would be willing to pay more than $28K. I'll keep everyone up to date with dealings. I requested 3 online quotes from local dealers this morning...hopefully I have something back by tomorrow afternoon.

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Sorry, Sullied, no idea whether that same method will work if you order from the factory, but like you said, it's worth a try.

 

And even though your current dealer knows how excited you are, once you get the other dealerships you've emailed to bite, don't be a afraid to go back to the first dealer and ask them to match it and throw in something extra or beat the other guys' offers. It's only fair to give the original guy a shot. But yeah, you've got to be willing to walk away, and you will probably have to. Just make sure they have your contact info so that when they change their minds, they know how to reach you.

 

Good luck with the online quotes. Like I said, that's the way that worked out for me in the end. I couldn't be happier with my deal. Ok, so maybe I could be happier, but that would just be greedy. :) Let us know how it works out!

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