seamusbleu Report post Posted February 6, 2010 DaveM.. I've experienced the exact same thing. When it's cold out (in Canada it's always cold in winter :D) , the regen braking just doesn't kick in for the first block or so of driving. When I apply the brakes it feels like straight friction pads. I never thought twice about it, but it always startles me, and no alarms have come on because of it.Perhaps the battery has to be warmed up before regenerative charging is allowed. While trying to find relevant information in the owner's guide, I came upon this interesting, though somewhat unrelated, sentence: If the battery is disconnected, the Regenerative Braking System will need to relearn the initial brake pedal position. After reconnecting the battery, slowly depress and release the brake pedal one time. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lrymal Report post Posted February 6, 2010 Magic date is on or before Oct 17, 2009. Can anybody confirm they have experienced this issue?Mine is a spring-build hybrid and no problems at all. The only glitch I have experienced was the instrument panel reset (MPG average stuff). I would think that if this problem was common enough, a few of us would have been mentioning it and in a major way. I'll be taking mine in within a few weeks, and get the other updates done as well: MicroSquish Sync update, DRL enabled (5% insurance discount!). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dogo88 Report post Posted February 6, 2010 Ford does this amid the Toyota meltdown in hopes the Ford problems pale in comparison to Toyotas (which it does) and doesnt tarninsh the FFH as badly as it might or could. One thing about Toyota, you can bet the ranch that Toyota will be a high quality car to buy once again in the near future. One photo of the CEO of Toyota "bowing" was enough to convince me of that. 2011 Toyotas will be top quality. Car Companies are all the same though and they live in denial until the economics of a repair or recall make it the right route to pursue financially. Whatever hurts them less is what they do, regardless of injury to the buyers / owners / drivers. Thats one thing the Japanese have learned well from the American Car Companys. I kind of agree with you on the better quality points, but I still believe the problem hasn't fully been fixed with respect to Toyota. Many other feel it's a software issue and until that is either proven or debunked, the mystery remains. I felt the mat issue was bogus, the petal sticking may be a problem in some of the cars. The Prius is still under investigation. On top of all this it was reported that until the NHTSA went to Toyota in Japan they wouldn't issue a recall. So all in all Toyota has their hands full. Will Toyota come out a better car, yes. Will it be the top quality it was before, not so sure. Mainly because I don't believe it was a wonderful as the Toyota fanboys proclaim. But that's just my opinion. As far as CR, it's been my contention that CR is one of the biggest Toyota fanboys. They continually give Toyota a by and recommended on every new model, And while they will not tell me, I also believe that their testers drive Toyotas. People usually drive what they like. So if I am correct, Toyota gets another check in the old "I like it" box. Ford has come out and heavily advertised the brake problem/fix because of Toyota being in the current spotlight for problems and they want to appear proactive. Which I believe they are. But also because CR, is also on the hotseat for always recommending Toyotas and not coming out earlier on the problems. CR may be trying to deflect Toyota problems with a report of Fords brake problem. Dan Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dogo88 Report post Posted February 6, 2010 Mine is a spring-build hybrid and no problems at all. The only glitch I have experienced was the instrument panel reset (MPG average stuff). I would think that if this problem was common enough, a few of us would have been mentioning it and in a major way. I'll be taking mine in within a few weeks, and get the other updates done as well: MicroSquish Sync update, DRL enabled (5% insurance discount!). "DRL enabled (5% insurance discount!)" What's that? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jonault Report post Posted February 6, 2010 "DRL enabled (5% insurance discount!)" What's that?DRL = Daytime Running Lights which I thought was standard on the Fusion, maybe I better check & see if mine are on :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lolder Report post Posted February 6, 2010 DRL's are actuated in Canada. The dealer has to actuate them in the US. Then I think they're always on, you can't turn them off. About a 0.5% hit on mpg. You can always turn on your low beams in the daylight when you want, about a 1.0% loss in mpg. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lrymal Report post Posted February 6, 2010 DRL's are actuated in Canada. The dealer has to actuate them in the US. Then I think they're always on, you can't turn them off. About a 0.5% hit on mpg. You can always turn on your low beams in the daylight when you want, about a 1.0% loss in mpg.They can be turned off via the headlamp switch, but per trip incidence only. Required to have turn-off ability per trip for some reason. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lolder Report post Posted February 6, 2010 They can be turned off via the headlamp switch, but per trip incidence only. Required to have turn-off ability per trip for some reason. That's interesting. You mean they always come on? If your headlights are already off and not in auto, how do you turn off the DRLs; turn the headlights on, then off? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Zacher Report post Posted February 6, 2010 That's interesting. You mean they always come on? If your headlights are already off and not in auto, how do you turn off the DRLs; turn the headlights on, then off? Being from Canada DRL's on any new vehicle I've owned you cannot turn off except in the following instances: Vehicle is in PARK and Headlights are in Auto (day) or Off (night)You can disable them on older vehicles by depressing or pulling your e-brake one notch, but was not consistent on all models. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Zachary18 Report post Posted February 7, 2010 I've had the situation where the recharge of the regen braking does not activate right of the bat. It seems to happen more when it is cold and/or wet. The first few times it happened I thought something had gone wrong. However, now I pump the brakes kinda hard until the regen comes on. By doing so the regen activates quicker than waiting for a block or two. Also, when I first got the car it I was coming up on cars too quickly and had to apply the brakes hard, kinda freaked me out. I learned how to avoid this problem by activating the regen sooner by pressing the brakes lightly. Once I did this I was able also to get the battery to a full charge which did not seem to be happening much before. I think the car was designed to maximize regen braking. After I learned the capabilities of the car the brakes work well for me. IMO The brakes are O.K it is the setting of the regen/hydraulic interface which is rather fine. IMO Ford designed the car to maximize regen braking. Consumer Reports probably experienced the same braking issue I did when I first got the car and freaked out because they did not learn the capabilities of the car. Of course, relying on the driver to learn to drive the car is not a solution Ford wants to publicize. It would be like blaming the victim. IMO those who insist on driving this car like a standard car will experience "braking problems". Using the brakes lightly continuously to take the edge off of speed, judging distance, and coming to gentle stops solved the feel of the braking problem and charged the battery to levels I had not attained previously. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Oman Report post Posted February 7, 2010 It sounds like your car has a problem. Possibly one of the wheel speed sensors is having problems in the rain. On each of the three FFHs I have driven the brakes are quite sensitive with very responsive regen braking. If you are traveling more than 5MPH then you should get immediate regen braking with a light tap and consistent braking. The only time you won't is if your battery is in the middle of a conditioning cycle or if you start to get wheel slip. In fact on most normal stops there will be no friction braking whatsoever until you get to < 5MPH at which time the system will move to friction only. At this 5MPH point you may sense a bit of a "slip" or a "grab" for a fraction of a second in wet conditions as the friction brakes take over and the car needs to figure out just how much hydraulic pressure needs to be applied to match the deceleration previously created by the traction motor. This almost feels like an automatic transmission dropping into first gear. Unless you are going down a big hill or you are in a conditioning cycle you should not normally see a full charge on the battery. The computer is programmed to maintain around a 50% charge. This means 50% available for EV or electric assist to the ICE and 50% available for regenerative use. Jon I've had the situation where the recharge of the regen braking does not activate right of the bat. It seems to happen more when it is cold and/or wet. The first few times it happened I thought something had gone wrong. However, now I pump the brakes kinda hard until the regen comes on. By doing so the regen activates quicker than waiting for a block or two. Also, when I first got the car it I was coming up on cars too quickly and had to apply the brakes hard, kinda freaked me out. I learned how to avoid this problem by activating the regen sooner by pressing the brakes lightly. Once I did this I was able also to get the battery to a full charge which did not seem to be happening much before. I think the car was designed to maximize regen braking. After I learned the capabilities of the car the brakes work well for me. IMO The brakes are O.K it is the setting of the regen/hydraulic interface which is rather fine. IMO Ford designed the car to maximize regen braking. Consumer Reports probably experienced the same braking issue I did when I first got the car and freaked out because they did not learn the capabilities of the car. Of course, relying on the driver to learn to drive the car is not a solution Ford wants to publicize. It would be like blaming the victim. IMO those who insist on driving this car like a standard car will experience "braking problems". Using the brakes lightly continuously to take the edge off of speed, judging distance, and coming to gentle stops solved the feel of the braking problem and charged the battery to levels I had not attained previously. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rpreuss Report post Posted February 8, 2010 On each of the three FFHs I have driven the brakes are quite sensitive with very responsive regen braking. If you are traveling more than 5MPH then you should get immediate regen braking with a light tap and consistent braking. The only time you won't is if your battery is in the middle of a conditioning cycle or if you start to get wheel slip. In fact on most normal stops there will be no friction braking whatsoever until you get to < 5MPH at which time the system will move to friction only. At this 5MPH point you may sense a bit of a "slip" or a "grab" for a fraction of a second in wet conditions as the friction brakes take over and the car needs to figure out just how much hydraulic pressure needs to be applied to match the deceleration previously created by the traction motor. This almost feels like an automatic transmission dropping into first gear. Jon There is one other time I notice that I do not get regenerative braking. When the car is very cold, and first started. Until I have stopped once or twice, there is no regen indicator. My "theory" is that the battery is still too cold. Talking about 0 - 20F. Regenerative breaking, according to the HEV display causes "thick lines" (I don't have an amp meter on the battery) indicating a lot of current. And my guess is that, until the battery warms a little due to the ICE charging it, they do not want to "Dump" that much current into a cold battery. Just a theory, mind you. The EE in me getting carried away. BTW - If I let the car warm up 10 minutes with the remote start, I have rejen right away. I figure that the ICE has been charging the battery in the driveway and as a result, warmed up the cells a bit so that the computer figures it can now increase the charge by using the regenerative braking. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oldschool1962 Report post Posted February 10, 2010 There is an unbelieveably huge difference in how my Fusion operates between the before and after regarding the reprogram. I didn't even knotice that mine was problematic other than the issues I had been contiually describing here and at the dealer. As far as the brakes go I just figured that I needed to stop so matter how I had to depres the pedal...... As soon as I made my first stop I noticed a distinct difference in brake pedal resistance and feel as well as travel distance. It's something I never picked up on even after reading the consumers report article. The regen icon didn't fluter when I depressed the pedal and it stayed on until I reached the 5mph limit. I drove around an extra 30 minutes today just to see if it was a fluke but it wasn't. For the first time since the first week owned the vehicle I was able to also get my MPG into the level that I believed it would operate at. I parked the car at 43 avg and 42.8 L-T driving the same route that I do every day and was only able to attain low 30's up until a week or two ago and then mleage became so bad recently that my L-T was in the 20's as well as my average. It was suggested that part of my mileage issue was that the HV ststem as well as the hybrid system never quite functioned properly. Ran into Tazzzboo at the dealership and his FFH had the reprogram done just before mine. He was kind enough to let me drive his to kinda do a comparison between the two vehicles. Note I drove his befoe I got m-ine back so all I had to go on was the weay mine drove prior but what a difference between the two. Thanks again Tazz! Had a great time talking to ya while we waited. All along I have been saying there was a computer issue and it turns out that there was. Now all we need to do is get the instrumant cluster fixed and I'll almost have the same car many of the rest of you have. I really hope this reprogram was the golden arrow as far as things are concerned regarding my regen icon issues as well and the regen issues I've been hollering about for the last 3 months. I just hope the elation with things sn't premature and..........well things have improved in the past only to return to what they were. Time will tell. Here's to hopeing it continues. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Oman Report post Posted February 10, 2010 Glad to hear that some of the gremlins went away. I had my "recalibration" done today. That's what they like to call a software update and all that goes along with it. It appears the update goes into the car as a package and updates a bunch of stuff. Then there are steps that have to be completed in order for the car to re-learn all the things that can vary from vehicle to vehicle. I had a Spring build but have had absolutely zero issues except for the dash reset... I got the expected mileage and never had a braking issue. I figured there were enough TSBs in the current software to warrant an update. The trick seems to be that you have to report one of the problems before Ford will update your car. Makes sense from a cost control point of view I guess. There really is a fair amount of work to get the update in and completed. Since I never experienced the brake problem that was fixed I was expecting to see no difference in the braking... whoa was I wrong. The pedal is less sensitive than it was (I always thought it was consistent but overly sensitive). On my 20 mile trip home I never once felt that little "drag" when dropping below 5MPH as the hydraulics kick in. Usually it would happen about 50% of the time I came to a stop. The battery charge also stayed between 60-75% on average vs. the usual on-the-money 50%. I have to see if that trend continues. I am a firm believer that the mind will play tricks on you and if you think something is different - it will feel different. I was expecting there to be no difference but the car sure feels different.... Either the recalibration just aligned the software with the car better or they tweaked some of the driving parameters beyond just the TSB notes. I can certainly see how that if your car was problematic in the first place the recalibration would make a major difference. Jon There is an unbelieveably huge difference in how my Fusion operates between the before and after regarding the reprogram. I didn't even knotice that mine was problematic other than the issues I had been contiually describing here and at the dealer. As far as the brakes go I just figured that I needed to stop so matter how I had to depres the pedal...... As soon as I made my first stop I noticed a distinct difference in brake pedal resistance and feel as well as travel distance. It's something I never picked up on even after reading the consumers report article. The regen icon didn't fluter when I depressed the pedal and it stayed on until I reached the 5mph limit. I drove around an extra 30 minutes today just to see if it was a fluke but it wasn't. For the first time since the first week owned the vehicle I was able to also get my MPG into the level that I believed it would operate at. I parked the car at 43 avg and 42.8 L-T driving the same route that I do every day and was only able to attain low 30's up until a week or two ago and then mleage became so bad recently that my L-T was in the 20's as well as my average. It was suggested that part of my mileage issue was that the HV ststem as well as the hybrid system never quite functioned properly. Ran into Tazzzboo at the dealership and his FFH had the reprogram done just before mine. He was kind enough to let me drive his to kinda do a comparison between the two vehicles. Note I drove his befoe I got m-ine back so all I had to go on was the weay mine drove prior but what a difference between the two. Thanks again Tazz! Had a great time talking to ya while we waited. All along I have been saying there was a computer issue and it turns out that there was. Now all we need to do is get the instrumant cluster fixed and I'll almost have the same car many of the rest of you have. I really hope this reprogram was the golden arrow as far as things are concerned regarding my regen icon issues as well and the regen issues I've been hollering about for the last 3 months. I just hope the elation with things sn't premature and..........well things have improved in the past only to return to what they were. Time will tell. Here's to hopeing it continues. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rfruth Report post Posted February 10, 2010 (edited) Is there a way to tell what ver of software is currently installed, does an OASIS report show it ? (0 problems ((that I know of)) here) but I don't like to change from unknown versions to unknown (((okay several BLIS errors, does that justify an upgrade))) ? Edited February 10, 2010 by rfruth Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lolder Report post Posted February 10, 2010 Do you think they may have added some mechanical braking in a regime where before there was only regen? I have had zero faults and the brakes are the smoothest I have ever had in a car. The below 5 mph effect is noticeable but minor. I hope the update doesn't degrade systems that are working well. Congrats oldschool1962. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites