12v Battery Issue on 2017 Fusion Hybrid

[rjrfusion]

I've been having a very similar issue as the OP on my 2 month old 2017 hybrid. I started noticing the "System Off to Save Battery" message a few weeks ago. As of yesterday, my radio doesn't work...I can't even select to audio panel on Sync 3. I just seems to ignore my selection. No other audio source or sound works, either--not even the beeping sound when you touch the screen! No bluetooth, no voice activation chime, nothing. I'm also seeing the "No GPS" message.

 

About the same time that the "Save Battery" messages started appearing, my HV battery drained completely after being in the garage for 2 nights. At first I thought it was a fluke, or perhaps I was just imagining things. Now it's clear there's some underlying electrical drain issue with these cars.

 

I'll take it to the dealer this week and report back. Reading this thread, I have a general sense of dread about the resolution of this issue.

 

I just had this exact same issue this week. Bringing my 2017 Fusion Hybrid Platinum to dealer tomorrow. I will have had the car 2 months next week. Same message and no radio and no audio on Nav or phone...

[heplguy]

 

I just had this exact same issue this week. Bringing my 2017 Fusion Hybrid Platinum to dealer tomorrow. I will have had the car 2 months next week. Same message and no radio and no audio on Nav or phone...

It's almost certainly the 12V battery. Let us know what the dealer does to fix it so we can keep track of what works and what doesn't (if the issue returns). I haven't had any problems since they recharged my battery, but it's only been a week.

[JATR4]

Just like to confirm what my Fusion salesman told me.. If 12V battery is dead.. The car (any Fusion?) is dead in ways that are not intuitive..

• Surprise! You can't open the Trunk with a dead/discharged 12v battery
• Surprise! You can't open the gas door with a dead/discharged 12V battery.
• Surprise! Since you can’t open the trunk, you can't get to the gas door manual override lever!
• Surprise! (this is the best one). Since you can’t open the trunk, you can’t get to the dead 12V battery in the trunk (“huh?)
• Wanna push/tow to the nearest service station? Surprise! Without special knowledge from the manual (out of scope), releasing the electric parking brake and putting the car into neutral using the electric shifting knob are impossible.
• You can't open the driver car door with a dead/discharged 12v Battery unless you have the actual laser-cut key. Key? What key? Who needs a key? It's 2017! Train yourself [page 49 of the manual — now locked inside your "dead" car] on how to get into the car with a key.
• The Key Blade:
• Hope you didn't lock your "intelligent access key" [Fob] and your smart phone in the "dead" car. If so, you can stop reading.
• In your fob is your actual "key" ("removable key blade”).
• This is a key so complicated it takes a laser and your "security label" to reproduce (example "12345 X SAVE FOR CUSTOMER RECORDS”). This is the small square of cardboard which came on ONE of your TWO original Fobs identifying YOUR car's lock. It should be in a very safe place. Obviously you can’t go to Home Depot to get one made.
• Locate the depress-able dark plastic "release button" next to the "panic" button on the fob. Press and the key blade should "pop" out.
• Under the driver door handle is a secret "cap". Looking from below on the handle, locate the seam and slide the cap to the right to expose the key hole ("cylinder”).
• Insert the key carefully [scratch!] and push up. I assume this will open the door mechanically (no power needed) Do not rotate/turn the key — instead, push up with gusto (my salesman actually said “with gusto” a few times on the walk-around to open/close the hood and trunk).
• Time to “remotely” jump start the battery. (Genius! The Ford engineers came up with this idea to save a cubic foot in the engine bay..) Under the hood (unlike everything else, the hood can be opened manually if you got in the car AND know where the release lever is!). For jump-starting, there is a hidden positive post under a plastic cap in the engine bay (page 229). Use the normal jump starting procedure with this positive post and any other piece of “grounded” metal — specifically the (unlabeled) screw/bolt to the left of the positive post shown in the manual.
• Now you can get to everything!

   

  Keep the phone number for Ford Roadside Assistance (1-800-241-3673), AAA, tire mfr roadside assistance, and/or your insurance roadside assistance (SafeCo has it).

   

  [betcha didn't know this one...]

  If your Fusion runs out of gas, and won't start after adding fuel, you should press the start/stop button several times to force fuel through the fuel pump until it reaches the combustion chamber. [page 155]

   

  I highly recommend The Worst-Case Scenario Survival Handbook.

   

  If you got this far I also highly recommend the $130 “idiot proof”

  Jump-N-Carry JNC660 1700 Peak Amp 12-Volt Jump Starter

I'll correct any cited mistakes. Please don’t reply: “My 2008 laser chip key …”, or “My cousin got their 2010 Fusion open by..”, or “a locksmith can open” — unless you personally had a locksmith experience in the latest Ford “intelligent access key” (Fob) era.

 

Here are two posts I made on the Energi forum that address the problem of a dead battery.

 

1. Posted 13 January 2017 - 07:11 PM

It happened to me today. Hadn't driven the Energi for about 10 days and the 12v battery was dead today. Tried using a trickle charger but didn't seem to work.

 

Checked the internet and found this one at Harbor Freight Tools:

 

3-in-1 Portable Power Pack with Jump Starter by Cen-Tech (item 62376)

 

Only $47.67 including tax.

 

Worked immediately. Drove the car a few miles and then plugged it in to the 240 EVSE. Hopefully the 12v battery will be fully charged at the end of the cycle.

 

Thanks to Murphy for the location of the negative terminal under the hood. The positive terminal has a red boot covering it and the negative terminal is 6 1/2 inches to the rear of the vehicle. The positive cable connection was a little tight but manageable.

 

Now to install the rope to open the trunk in case of future failure. Will be expected since it is a 2013.

 

2. Posted 15 January 2017 - 01:19 PM

So I bought the jump starter battery pack as stated in the previous post. Since my battery will likely die in the near future (2013 FFE) I plan on carrying the jump starter in the trunk. But that won't do much good if I am away from home, the battery dies (or the key fob battery dies), and the car is locked. I need both a way to get into the vehicle and a way to open the trunk. My FFE has the push button start so no immediate way to get into the car.

 

Here is a youtube video of how to access the emergency access key contained in the key fob:

 

 

But once in the car I still can't access the trunk so I installed a piece of rope from the emergency trunk opener in the trunk through the back seat.

 

Problem solved.

 

This is just one way that addresses the dead battery problem on a push-button start vehicle.

Edited March 29, 2017 by JATR4

[lolder]

Replace the 12 vdc battery now.

[stlouisgeorge]

"..Now to install the rope to open the trunk in case of future failure.."

 

"..So I bought the jump starter battery pack.."

We must be brothers from a different mother (or whatever the saying is..). I am now having battery problems. Just TODAY, after loading my jump pack (already owned from my last hybrid) in the trunk I thought:

 

How am I going to get this out of the trunk if the battery is dead? I know! I'll put the pack near the rear seat and attach a rope to it!

I also had the thought I would put the jump pack inside a heavy duty bag (so when I pull the rope the heavy jump pack won't scratch anything). Thoughts like this are a curse (see book below).

 

I had to jump my 2010 Honda Insight at least 15 times a year. Kid leaves a dome light -- dead 12v battery. I learned that jump starting a 12v battery is damaging to it. Don't doubt me. I got a new battery under warranty 5 times. Each battery would handle about a dozen jumps before dying. Honda service didn't care since they didn't pay for a new battery (Honda did), but they told me every visit that frequently jump starting a car "murders" batteries.

 

Since we think alike, you might want to pick this book up. Helps me sleep at night..

The Worst-Case Scenario Survival Handbook

Edited April 8, 2017 by stlouisgeorge

[stlouisgeorge]

Cross post. I am also having the dreaded problem:

 

 

Here is the other post I made.

[murphy]

Jump starting is not what kills batteries. The battery going dead causes material to flake off of the plates and collect at the bottom of the cells. When the debris reaches the bottom of the plates it shorts out the cell which destroys the battery. The only solution is timely charging of the battery to keep it from ever going dead. The car is loaded with microprocessors that run 24/7 which puts a constant load on the battery.

 

The other solution is to use an AGM battery which does not have the "flaking" problem. They cost about double what a wet cell battery costs.

[stlouisgeorge]

Disagree on the jumping being "ok" to do to a 12V battery over and over.

 

Check out my full coverage from my local Ford EV Certified dealership visit today concerning the "System Off to Save Battery" issue here!

[rmsaunders6]

I am the original poster for this e-mail thread. Ford gave us a replacement 2017 Fusion Hybrid under Virginia's "Lemon Law" when they could not fix the problem with our first hybrid. Now, the replacement car has exhibited the exact same problem: the car reported that it was going into sleep mode overnight (after having been driven extensively the day before) and this morning the thing is completely dead. Off to the dealer (again).

[yogaduane]

Received my special order 2017 Ford Fusion Titanium Hybrid in late December, 2016. Starting on early March, 2017, I started getting periodic messages from the FordPass App that "DEEP SLEEP MODE ACTIVATED". This made no sense as I drive the car daily. Shortly thereafter, the Sync 3 Home Screen began displaying a "System Off to Save Battery" message when entering the vehicle. Upon starting the vehicle, Sync 3 started but the Audio was not operational.

I finally took the car to the dealer for warranty service and gave them the information I found on the Ford Fusion Hybrid Forum on two topics involving 2017 Ford Fusions Hybrids with similar symptoms to mine: "Deep Sleep Mode Activated" and “12v Battery Issue on 2017 Fusion Hybrid”. Unlike the Fusions discussed in the topics, my battery never fully discharged.

The dealer did not replace the battery but performed the fixes described in SSM46440 - Some 2017 Fusion, MKZ, Continental and MKX with an instrument panel center mounted speaker may exhibit no audio, navigation inoperative, inability to access audio features with all controls including steering wheel switches and voice commands with Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) U0184. If unable to communicate with the audio control module (ACM), remove the radio power fuse for 10 minutes to reset the ACM. Reprogram the ACM to the latest calibration using the Integrated Diagnostic System (IDS) release 104.03 or higher.

I have had the car back for a week and all is well so far.

[lolder]

Maybe the modern world is not so complicated. Pull the plug, have a beer, plug it in.

[rmsaunders6]

Original poster here again. The dealer replaced the 12v battery after it failed a load test but found no other faults. The car has started normally for four days now.

[yogaduane]

In my previous post on April 11th I reported that I had been receiving messages from FordPass that "DEEP SLEEP MODE ACTIVATED". Also instead on Sync 3 starting when I entered the vehicle I was getting "System Off to Save Battery" message. Unlike other people who were experiencing similar problems, my 12v battery never fully discharged. After performing a hard reset on the Audio Control Module ("ACM") and reprogramming the ACM to the latest calibration using the Integrated Diagnostic System (IDS) release 104.03 or higher the dealer returned the vehicle me without replacing the battery. I have had the vehicle back for almost three weeks and have had no messages or problems.

I just dawned on me that since I got the car back, the Sync 3 System is no longer coming on when I enter the vehicle. There is no "System Off to Save Battery" message. Instead the Ford logo comes up for around 30 seconds and then the screen goes blank. The Sync 3 system starts when the engine is started. The Sync 3 System stays on when the vehicle is turned off and doesn't shut off until the door is opened.

[stlouisgeorge]

So you are still on your "Hermillos" 12V battery?

 

There is whole "ballet" that occurs after you get out of the car. I sat for an hour in the car with the Start button disengaged. For five minutes, every minute or so something would shut down.. The CD drive whirred for 2 seconds after 5 minutes. at precisely one half hour I heard something else shutoff. I think the shifter knob went dark last. There is probably a whole team at Ford covering this.

Edited April 20, 2017 by stlouisgeorge

[johncsi]

I actually own a Lincoln MKZ, which is the exact same car with a little extras, and I leased it back in 2015. That makes it a little over 2 years old. This car has been plagued with dead 12 volt battery problems from the start, 5 dealer tries and 2 batteries and have finally won a settlement from Ford. I really don't like it, but it is better than nothing.

So, now what I would like to do is install a second battery in the trunk. It would not always be connected, but it is a little difficult to know where to attach the ground. As I said before, this MKZ Hybrid is the same as a Ford fusion; in fact they have the same wiring diagram. On the negative terminal there is a battery monitor attached to the battery and from there a larger (maybe #9) wire attaches to that small module and then to ground. It also is connected to the positive side of the battery. If I went this route, where would be the best place to connect the negative side? To the battery or the frame after the battery monitor?

And just in case you think there is no recourse about a dead battery, all information was in my owner's manual and a key for the vehicle is either attached to one of the teeny tiny 3" x 2" key fobs, or in them by prying them open. You can then get into the vehicle and under the hood and get to the main or high powered battery fuse box. On the driver's side on the left side of the box is a place to connect the + from another battery. Then attach the - to a bolt toward the back.

[murphy]

Rather than a second battery I removed the OEM battery and installed a much bigger AGM battery. I had to remove the battery tray and saw the rear end off of it make the AGM battery fit. I still have to monitor the charge level but AGM batteries maintain their voltage to a significantly lower charge level than a wet cell lead acid battery does. If the car will sit for a week, without being driven, I connect a battery maintainer to the "jump" terminals under the hood.

 

I also have a 7 AH gel cell battery in the glove compartment with a 12 gauge cable with clips that can be used to connect it to the jump terminals under the hood if the car is dead. In over 4 years I have not had to use it because the AGM battery has never gone low enough to not provide 12 volts.

 

Detailed installation instructions are in the battery section of the Energi forum.

[timmiek]

 

In my previous post on April 11th I reported that I had been receiving messages from FordPass that "DEEP SLEEP MODE ACTIVATED". Also instead on Sync 3 starting when I entered the vehicle I was getting "System Off to Save Battery" message. Unlike other people who were experiencing similar problems, my 12v battery never fully discharged. After performing a hard reset on the Audio Control Module ("ACM") and reprogramming the ACM to the latest calibration using the Integrated Diagnostic System (IDS) release 104.03 or higher the dealer returned the vehicle me without replacing the battery. I have had the vehicle back for almost three weeks and have had no messages or problems.

I just dawned on me that since I got the car back, the Sync 3 System is no longer coming on when I enter the vehicle. There is no "System Off to Save Battery" message. Instead the Ford logo comes up for around 30 seconds and then the screen goes blank. The Sync 3 system starts when the engine is started. The Sync 3 System stays on when the vehicle is turned off and doesn't shut off until the door is opened.

 

It looks like I have the same issue as you had. I get messages on ford pass telling me car entered deep sleep mode and also battery is off to save whatever. I have made appt with ford dealer. What should I tell them to do, or should I just let them run their diagnostics?

[stlouisgeorge]

I got the dreaded "FORDPASS Deep Sleep Mode Activated" text message today (for the second time in a month). Both times the car sat for -- 2 days (wow. 2 days). This is a dealer-installed replacement battery.

 

After using my trusty jump-pack to get my car started, SYNC3 is now exhibiting the dreaed "Radio Off" message.

As others have described in this thread, there is no sound but some other SYNC3 things seemed to be working. Will the "Radio Off" issue from a dead 12V fix itself? (say, when the 12V charges itself back up)? I don't see an obvious fuse to check in the manual.

[stlouisgeorge]

I got the dreaded "FORDPASS Deep Sleep Mode Activated" text message today ..

After using my trusty jump-pack to get my car started, SYNC3 is now exhibiting the dreaded "Radio Off" message.

Here are some tips to get your car out of "Radio Off" mode -- potentially saving you a trip to the dealer.

• Turn off your car. Open close your door. Turn car on.
• Try inserting a CD into the slot.
• Try Soft Reset (reboot SYNC3):

  ⁃ Hold down the power button and the right seek button for 5-6 seconds. The SYNC3 head unit will reboot -- takes about 20 seconds.

• [Do not do this. Tow to Ford and wait days for a fix] Try unhooking your 12V battery cables for a few minutes (you will lose some of your settings like clock). This is a bit desparate -- don't try this if you don't know your way around a car.

The last one worked for me. No trip to dealer. I did have to reset my clock, redo Bluetooth pairing with my phone, and (ugghh) re-register my car with FORDPASS.

 

Here are some interesting threads about "Radio Off" on a Ford SYNC3:

 

Why can't I get my [Ford SYNC3] radio or any audio to turn on? Related posts

https://www.torquenews.com/3768/what-do-if-your-2017-ford-f-150-falls-deep-sleep-mode

https://www.f150forum.com/f118/why-cant-i-get-my-radio-any-audio-turn-337907/

Edited October 7, 2017 by stlouisgeorge