firebuff312

Generaly speaking if you have a "bad" connection the audio will not work at all. You said that the speaker sounded "shitty". If by shitty you mean crackling, popping, and scratching then you have most likely blown that speaker. I say this because a " blown" speaker will still play audio but it will sound.......well...shitty!

I have a 2010 Ford Fusion SE (6 Speaker). I added the MTX-Re-Q to compliment my Alpine Type-R Subwoofer. The device does a good job of reproducing bass signal (especially the very low notes that the stock HU hampers). The most noticeable factor is that the Re-Q does a very good job of evening the bass with the music with its "volume sensing". Before the Re-Q the bass would be too strong at low volume and too weak at high volumes. With the Re-Q installed the bass remains even with the music even at high volumes. Although I felt that even a discounted amazon price of 75 dollars was a bit much, if you have a bit of money to spend then go for it. The unit powers on and off with the radio (which stopped my very annoying car noise from the amplifier) and even has an REM out, which means that you can even wire it so that the Re-Q AND your amplifier power on and off with the radio.

Getting to the radio is a real B***H. Had to take the whole gray piece with the cup holders out + the piece were the AC plug is + pop the top middle console. I ended up breaking the tension that makes that piece pop up. I have to open it manually now. Not a big deal considering you cant fit to much i there anyways. I keep all of my stuff in the armrest compartment. This one is worth the money to get someone to install it. I know from experience lol...good luck.

The Fronts are 6x8's.

Its not a Porche, I'm not worried about the "value" of the vehicle. I'm worried about some knockin bass. THANK YOU FOR TELLING ME HOW TO DO THAT THOUGH SITHIL.

"You can face the woofers in any direction or place them anywhere in the vehicle and the gain will be the same because it is only dependent on vehicle size. This is not to say that firing orientation or woofer placement will not have an effect on the subwoofer system output. It certainly does but this difference is not attributable to the cabin gain. CABIN GAIN DEPENDS ON THE SIZE OF THE VEHICLE ONLY! I just wanted information on how to cut through the rear deck, not "information" that you think is correct but is not. I'am not building a bandpass box, nor do I need information on how to construct an audio system. Thank you for the attempted advice but It dosent sound like either of you know what heir talking about.

Thank you for that. By the way Im unsure about that last part. Im very familiar with car audio and I know if you have subs in ported/bandpass boxes they sound better with some sort of place to allow air movement between between the cabin and the trunk. That makes the difference between bass you can hear and bass you can feel.

Whatever is holding the door paneling on... those "snap-on" pieces make up a large majority of the cars interior... now do you know how to get the tweeters out?

there is a bunch of wires tied togather near the fuse box....orange/white should work.

Hey everybody, while investegating some audio modifications I saw that YOU CAN NOW USE SYNC WITH AN AFTERMARKET HEAD UNIT, but the module is a whooping $249.99 (Its on sale for $200.00 now @ the link provided so move quick to get the discount.) Good news is it lets you retain the use of SYNC, streeing wheel controls, rear entertainment system, and SIRUS, so I guess its worth the money if your absolutely dying to put an aftermarket in, but if you think about it, the price of that, dash kit+ an actual stereo is a bit too pricy for my liking... http://www.crutchfield.com/p_541MSFRD1/Ford-Factory-Radio-Interface.html?search=ford+sync+&ssi=0&tp=3486 If any one installs please provide feedback with how it works, and how difficult the installation is...Good Luck With The Installs Everybody!

I have a 2010 ford fusion se w/ 6 speaker audio. I want to replace the tweeters because of course, even though the stock tweeters smack the high notes pretty good, they smack them with lots of static and a bit of distortion. Ive investagated a bit and know that the tweeters are actually pretty small, but they use big speaker grills on the A-B pillars. I tried pulling on the rubber-like material just below the tweeter housing and one of the DIN's popped...but then I stoped and realized, "hey maybe this isnt the correct way to do it", so I figured I would ask everybody here. Like I said I was able to pull out the section of the door just below the tweeter just enough to see the wiring, but I cant see how to get the actual tweeter/ tweeter housing out...I dont see any screws so im thinking they might be DIN's....anybody??? (thanks in advance).

Hey everybody...I have a 2010 fusion se w/ 6 speaker audio and an aftermarket sub installed. I noticed that in between the cutouts for the 6x9's in the rear deck there is a 4 inch hole. My sub dosent sound too great with the seats closed up, so I figured I would put a port in this cut out to allow some extra sound to come into the passenger compartment. There is a layer of insulation, a piece of thin plywood, then carpeting on top. My question is what would be the eiasiest way to cut through these materials without destroying anything>>>??? Thanks in advance...

Hey what is "indexing" anyways???

Go to www.crutchfield.com...you can type in what type of car and it will show you what fits as far as speakers subs headunits and other things go.

Yeah I just noticed those 6x9 cutouts the other day...i also noticed a 4 inch cutout in-between that which would be perfect for a 4 inch port to let some bass from the trunk to the passeger comartment! (if you have aftermarket sub(s) in the trunk that is)

OK I Have a 2010 Fusion SE W/Sync and the 6 speaker stock system. In order to pull the radio out I had to undo the two screws in the center storage compartment (by windshield), just to give it some leway (do not actualy pull it out, taking the screws out will give it enough room to move) I then had to take out the center piece where the cup holders/ A/C plug is. After that you have to put the shifter in low gear (to allow room for the radio to come out) After that you can tug on the area around the radio and the DIN's should pop...once thats done there are 4 screws around the screen of the radio you have to unscrew. thats it...you can access the harness/components from here. BEWARE!!! THIS WAS A VERY LENGTHY PROCES THAT TOOK 1/2 THE DAY TO COMPLETE YOU ARE BETTER OFF PAYING SOMEONE TO INSTALL THE RADIO/SUBS (EVEN IF YOU KNOW HOW TO DO IT) THERE IS ALOT OF LABOR AND PARTS REMOVAL INVOLVED AND THATS ONLY TO ACESS THE AREA!) And whoever mentioned not being able to by an aftermarket radio b/c of the SYNC it CAN be done BUT...you have to purchase a SYNC module adapter which is a whopping $189.99. with that plus the price of even a cheap head unit your at least 500 dollars in the drain and to me its not worth it!

Hey Guys... I have a 2010 ford fusion se w/o the sony stereo system. I have noticed that the speakers do not put out enough clarity...especialy at high volumes. My question is is it worth amplifying the factory speakers? I dont know what kind of speakers they are but I feel like they have potential, but they are underpowered. One car audio salesman told me that i shouldnt even bother unless i buy a set of aftermarket speakers. (but I think thats because he wanted me to spend more money!!!) Other people tell me that it will make it sound alot better. Like I said it is a brand new car with a good set of speakers and a-b pillar tweeters. Should i spend the money to amplify the factory speakers? And does anyone know the specs on the speakers that are in there already??? Thanks in advance.

When my car is in "phone mode" the volume is different then that of the radio...the only thing is you could only set the "phone mode" volume when you are in the middle of a call...next time you get a call set the volume to the desired level and it should work...

Yes it could be a number of things heres a list of things to check 1. the settings on the amp are turned up (gain and level) 2. that piece that the dealer charged you for is a hi-low coverter...check to make sure that it is still connected 3. Check that the amp has power (most amps should have some sort of illumination when powered) maybe the ground or power wire came loose...maybe the wires that go to the sub came loose...(my old cars sub was not bolted down and if i took the turn too fast the sub would move and make the wires come out... 4. check the wiring...maybe there is a short somewhere (chip or cut in the wire) 5. Check all of the fuses...for a top of the line system there should be a fuse in the power wire right were it connects to the battery terminal and probably 2 or 3 on the actual amp. 6. check the radio settings...my old system was connected to a stock face and if the balance was set all the way to the rear the sub would cut off...play with the faders Front, Back, Left and Right and see if that brings it back to life... these are just a few suggestions...good luck...

Hey did you check the fuse...I know i pulled the fuse on the radio when I was trying to hardwire something and the radio did the same thing (just displayed the words ford fusion and did nothing else) once i put the fuse back it came back to life...try it out and good luck...

Hey Everybody... I have a 2010 Ford Fusion SE...I just hardwired my radar detector into the fuse box and grounded it...The good news is it works just fine. The bad news is I cant seem to find a fuse that turns on/off with the key. I looked in the manual and tried a couple of "not used (spare)" fuses and they seemed to have power all the time. So then I tried the fuse for the radio which is actually the one suggested. The radar detector still has power to it all the time!!! Of course the radar detector still works but the whole reason I did this was so that I wouldnt have to keep reaching over and turning it on and off (I have it mounted in a wierd spot so the power switch is hard to get to) I might try the one for the fog lamps because i know that those turn on with the ignition but I figured id check with everybody here first. Is it possible that the whole fuse box has power all the time??? Im stumped...PLEASE HEP!!!

I tried this in a 2010 se and it didnt work...is there a different way to do it in this car???

well thats odd!!! I have a 2010 fusion se and there are more lights than broadway in it!...vanity lights in the visors, two up front, two in the back, and an extra back one that comes on when the door is open...ALL WITH SEPERATE SWITCHES!!!

ive had that happen before and i finally realized why...you have to shut of the car and all the elctronics...if you dont it some how gets "confused" and shows an incorrect fuel level.