firebuff312

Generaly speaking if you have a "bad" connection the audio will not work at all. You said that the speaker sounded "shitty". If by shitty you mean crackling, popping, and scratching then you have most likely blown that speaker. I say this because a " blown" speaker will still play audio but it will sound.......well...shitty!

I have a 2010 Ford Fusion SE (6 Speaker). I added the MTX-Re-Q to compliment my Alpine Type-R Subwoofer. The device does a good job of reproducing bass signal (especially the very low notes that the stock HU hampers). The most noticeable factor is that the Re-Q does a very good job of evening the bass with the music with its "volume sensing". Before the Re-Q the bass would be too strong at low volume and too weak at high volumes. With the Re-Q installed the bass remains even with the music even at high volumes. Although I felt that even a discounted amazon price of 75 dollars was a bit much, if you have a bit of money to spend then go for it. The unit powers on and off with the radio (which stopped my very annoying car noise from the amplifier) and even has an REM out, which means that you can even wire it so that the Re-Q AND your amplifier power on and off with the radio.

Getting to the radio is a real B***H. Had to take the whole gray piece with the cup holders out + the piece were the AC plug is + pop the top middle console. I ended up breaking the tension that makes that piece pop up. I have to open it manually now. Not a big deal considering you cant fit to much i there anyways. I keep all of my stuff in the armrest compartment. This one is worth the money to get someone to install it. I know from experience lol...good luck.

The Fronts are 6x8's.

Its not a Porche, I'm not worried about the "value" of the vehicle. I'm worried about some knockin bass. THANK YOU FOR TELLING ME HOW TO DO THAT THOUGH SITHIL.

"You can face the woofers in any direction or place them anywhere in the vehicle and the gain will be the same because it is only dependent on vehicle size. This is not to say that firing orientation or woofer placement will not have an effect on the subwoofer system output. It certainly does but this difference is not attributable to the cabin gain. CABIN GAIN DEPENDS ON THE SIZE OF THE VEHICLE ONLY! I just wanted information on how to cut through the rear deck, not "information" that you think is correct but is not. I'am not building a bandpass box, nor do I need information on how to construct an audio system. Thank you for the attempted advice but It dosent sound like either of you know what heir talking about.

Thank you for that. By the way Im unsure about that last part. Im very familiar with car audio and I know if you have subs in ported/bandpass boxes they sound better with some sort of place to allow air movement between between the cabin and the trunk. That makes the difference between bass you can hear and bass you can feel.

Whatever is holding the door paneling on... those "snap-on" pieces make up a large majority of the cars interior... now do you know how to get the tweeters out?

there is a bunch of wires tied togather near the fuse box....orange/white should work.

Hey everybody, while investegating some audio modifications I saw that YOU CAN NOW USE SYNC WITH AN AFTERMARKET HEAD UNIT, but the module is a whooping $249.99 (Its on sale for $200.00 now @ the link provided so move quick to get the discount.) Good news is it lets you retain the use of SYNC, streeing wheel controls, rear entertainment system, and SIRUS, so I guess its worth the money if your absolutely dying to put an aftermarket in, but if you think about it, the price of that, dash kit+ an actual stereo is a bit too pricy for my liking... http://www.crutchfield.com/p_541MSFRD1/Ford-Factory-Radio-Interface.html?search=ford+sync+&ssi=0&tp=3486 If any one installs please provide feedback with how it works, and how difficult the installation is...Good Luck With The Installs Everybody!

I have a 2010 ford fusion se w/ 6 speaker audio. I want to replace the tweeters because of course, even though the stock tweeters smack the high notes pretty good, they smack them with lots of static and a bit of distortion. Ive investagated a bit and know that the tweeters are actually pretty small, but they use big speaker grills on the A-B pillars. I tried pulling on the rubber-like material just below the tweeter housing and one of the DIN's popped...but then I stoped and realized, "hey maybe this isnt the correct way to do it", so I figured I would ask everybody here. Like I said I was able to pull out the section of the door just below the tweeter just enough to see the wiring, but I cant see how to get the actual tweeter/ tweeter housing out...I dont see any screws so im thinking they might be DIN's....anybody??? (thanks in advance).

Hey everybody...I have a 2010 fusion se w/ 6 speaker audio and an aftermarket sub installed. I noticed that in between the cutouts for the 6x9's in the rear deck there is a 4 inch hole. My sub dosent sound too great with the seats closed up, so I figured I would put a port in this cut out to allow some extra sound to come into the passenger compartment. There is a layer of insulation, a piece of thin plywood, then carpeting on top. My question is what would be the eiasiest way to cut through these materials without destroying anything>>>??? Thanks in advance...

Hey what is "indexing" anyways???

Go to www.crutchfield.com...you can type in what type of car and it will show you what fits as far as speakers subs headunits and other things go.

Yeah I just noticed those 6x9 cutouts the other day...i also noticed a 4 inch cutout in-between that which would be perfect for a 4 inch port to let some bass from the trunk to the passeger comartment! (if you have aftermarket sub(s) in the trunk that is)