danager

What is IE and anti-virus? No problems here - on a Mac.

I picked up my car, and it looks beautiful again! The bill came to $1,564.xx including the rental. It took just over a week, and because I had a rental, I didn't mind. 2 hours after I left the dealership, they call to say the replacement component for the grill is in. They want me to drop it off for the day to R&R this one part. I removed this to change the headlights, and can do the job in 5 minutes in the parking lot. I may do just that (if they let me). Now looking at trading the Fusion in for a 2010 F-150. There may be a travel trailer in my future, and the Fusion is not set up to tow ;) Just waiting on the dealer to locate the specs I want and then work out the financing. 8K in rebates and incentives, and A-Plan pricing on top of that. I have been loyal to this dealer, so I usually get a good trade-in value. We shall see...

I just got my car back after a door ding in a parking lot left a quarter sized dent in the passenger door. Let me tell you, repairs are not as inexpensive as they used to be. I too thought this would be a few hundred dollars at most. The car was built 6 months ago and required the door to be painted and blended into the rear door. The bill for the body work was $1,039.00 plus the cost of the rental car for a week. The other party wisely chose to go through insurance. I preferred this as well, as now the work is guaranteed through my insurance company, not just through the body shop. Good luck!

All models of the Fusion have that. They changed styles for 2010 - you should add them to your new wheels. I have a 2010 SE as well, hoping to pick up a set of Sport wheels/tires for the car.

The car should be ready for pick up tomorrow - 10 days after going in. The final paint was applied today and some additional time was allotted before it would be driven again. I forgot to ask about the grill, I hope that will be taken care of already. I have enjoyed this rental car, and the weather has been beautiful allowing me to have the top down every time I have driven the car. I have three kids, and I learned the practicality of a sedan this last week. I must admit, two booster seats look funny wedged into the rear buckets on the Mustang's +2 seating. I really liked the leather in the car, it complimented the texture on the dash and doors, and is super easy to clean. I will be ordering the leather interior and seat heaters for the Fusion shortly as a result. I have begun to miss my Fusion, the quiet cabin, the smooth ride, the trunk large enough to hold more than a backpack.

Dropped the car off on Monday, it may be ready to go Friday. The dealership is also replacing the chrome grill under warranty because of the chrome finish de-laminating in the top bar. I took it to the dealership tht sold me the cart, and I spoke to my salesman when I dropped it off. He will be keeping tabs on it and will call with any issues or updates. Insurance is also paying for a rental, and he was able to upgrade that for me. I am driving a 2011 Mustang convertible for the week!

I have read about some people pulling the fuse for the Sync, wait a few minutes and replace it. That causes it to reset...

It does not.

Fixed it for you. No need to use CAPS and "quotes", we can all get along.

After visiting two dent removal specialists, they said not a chance of removing the dent. So I went to three reputable body shops, and the estimates are between $908 and $1039. The repair will take 3-4 days. I called the other party tonight, and they want to go through their insurance company. I am not surprised, and I actually prefer it this way - as I want to make sure this is handled properly. My concern is the issue of not having a car for 3-4 days. I am single, work full time, and have my three young children on my days off. I will obviously be renting a car. The last estimator said the other insurance company would only pay for a rental if I had that on my policy? I am not sure if I do, so now I need to check. If not, I may be footing the $150.00 for a rental. I hope this doesn't take too long, get approval > make appointment at body shop > wait for repairs to be completed. The last adjuster also recommended I document the damage very well for trade-in or resale purposes. If the repair comes up as an issue, noting the damage was small and localized to one door would likely put a buyer at ease. This is why I am leaning towards having the dealership repair the car. I have traded in my last 3 vehicles there when purchasing.

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I am upgrading the lights on my 2010 Fusion. I purchased the chrome bulbs to replace the front running/turn signal bulbs. This cleaned up the look of the front end very nicely, $7.00 well spent. I also installed PIAA Platinum White Plus H11 bulbs in place of the low beams. I am wanting to upgrade the fog lights a little, and am torn trying to decide which bulbs to go with. I will either go with PIAA Platinum White Plus, or the PIAA Plasma Ion Yellow. I had this combo on my 2007 Focus, and it worked great as well as looked great on the red car. The 2010 Fusion is Platinum White, so it makes sense that the white lights will look great. I am curious as to your opinions on the yellow fog lights. What I like about the yellow, is they help me to see better in the rain, I can see the lines on the road much more clearly. Thanks for your feedback, Dan

Which iPod?

Perhaps the rate at which they flash. When stopped at a traffic light, at night - those things are bright!

I have to ask in what context are you using DIN? In the car audio culture, this typically refers to the size of the radio. Your use intrigued me, as you used it convincingly. A little research uncovered there are some 12,000 DIN standards! "The over 12,000 DIN standards cover a wide range of topics including: physical quantities and units, fasteners, water analysis, building and civil engineering (including building materials, construction contract procedures (VOB), soil testing, corrosion protection of steel structures), materials testing (testing machines, plastics, rubber, petroleum products, semiconductors), steel pipes, machine tools, twist drills, roller and ball bearings, and process engineering. DIN Handbooks (covering subjects such as mechanical engineering, fasteners, steel, steel pipes, and welding), and most DIN standards are available as English versions, or as English translations." Anyhow, what are you planning on replacing it with? A good tweeter needs good CLEAN power behind it.

I bet when you race you wear a helmet, harness and possible other safety equipment. You seem to be helping the side you are against. Again, I do not mean to insult you, just please don't throw out opinion and observations as facts. I have never seen a plane crash, doesn't mean it doesn't happen. I wear my seatbelt on those things too, kinda silly I guess...

You know, after needing to have it vacuumed down, then buying a couple tools to remove the line (snap ring tools), needing a couple o-rings, and then dealing with them telling you they will not guarantee anything because you opened the system - may not be worth it. What is the labour charge? The tricky part with AC, a slow leak allows the system to work for one season (usually), and then you pay again the following year.

Replacing the hose is not difficult, however it is easier to do it incorrectly (like so many things). The refrigerant will need to be recovered and the system recharged after the repair. Yes, an AC tech would be needed. Just to be clear, they are replacing the hose for $300 right (not repairing the hose)? that is about right for that repair, factoring in the cost of the replacement hose, labour to R&R, and the recharge. The recharge is the part they should be doing at no charge. The line would have always needed replacing so you would have incurred that plus the labour the first time around. Good luck!

If it is held on with foam tape (like the factory lettering) good old fashioned dental floss does the trick with no need for heat. I just removed the letters from my car last week, including the vinyl decal the dealer was so nice to install. The best mod out there IMO. I am never a fan of goo gone or lighter fluid - not to start a debate as I know some people have had great success. I actually cover the old adhesive with NuFinish polish and let it soak in a bit. Hit it with a clean cloth and the adhesive and foam residue come right off. With the UV stability of modern paint, it is very unlikely that there will be any lingering reminders of what used to be there. Have a good one! Dan

That layer of plywood is hardboard - the same stuff most wooden clipboards are made of. It is lightweight and rigid... I have always used a utility knife to cut through those materials. Scoring the wood and removing a bit at a time. Be careful not to stretch the carpeting on the top, or it will always be noticeable where you cut. That area will also be more prone to dust as you are now encouraging air flow.

I agree with Akirby -to wear the seat belt or not is your call. I think most people are familiar that the benefits outweigh the downfalls. In the example given, remember - the seatbelt would not have been responsible for what may have happened when the roof was sheared off, that would have been the cause and effect. People argue with physics everyday, those that gamble risk loosing big time. Hit a ditch at 25 MPH and see how abruptly a vehicle stops, you may have a new appreciation for your seatbelt. I doubt anybody online will be able to change your opinion of when and why to wear your seatbelt, I do hope your approach serves you well. I also agree with Andre, when it is my car, you have two choices... Have you seen the MyKey video, the belt minder will actually mute the radio. I love it! For the record, I made a series of poor judgements one evening, and got into a vehicle being driven by somebody who had no business being behind the wheel. We hit another moving car from behind, and I was injured. Since then, I wear my seat belt to move the car from the driveway to park in the street. Best of luck to ya!

Hi again, 1) Usually the control head will display an error if either are not functioning properly. I am not very familiar with troubleshooting the new Ford products, in most cars, the AC light will flash and turn off. 2) Refrigerant goes in by volume that is weighed, not based on pressure. There are min/max pressures for the low side and high side, they are not very reliable figures to diagnose anything with.

I would suspect they did it they way they did so they could cycle the ignition on and off without a code being present. Have you looked at the flip out keys with integrated remotes? They look slick!

The belt and pulley are spinning and not squealing because either the compressor is turning, or the clutch is not engaging. Start the car, leave all climate controls off - look and listen to the compressor. Then have somebody inside turn on the AC or defrost - you should hear a click (the clutch engaging the compressor). If there is no call for AC, it will immediately disengage - again, you should hear a click. I would then move on to testing with a thermometer and the system set to recirculate. You can pick up a vent temperature thermometer at most auto parts stores for a few bucks (an inexpensive one will do the trick if you are only going to use it a few times). The AC system is reliant on air passing through the fins on the condenser to cool down the refrigerant. To simulate this cooling effect, spray down the radiator and condenser with water. The issue could be with the programmer - which is often integrated into the climate controls of automatic system, or an issue with the blend door/blend door actuator. You are getting past what most DIY people are able to test and repair. Most repair shops have regular mechanics diagnose and repair the components, and the AC mechanic recovers/recharges the system. I would try a different shop than you visited in the past. Going on a cool day isn't going to help, as the system may test properly. As for the compressor, while I am no Ford parts guy, having repaired AC for a while - a compressor with the clutch and coil assy is not a bad idea. I would always condone using genuine parts as opposed to a jobber pump. Good Luck! Dan

Just because you cannot understand something doesn't mean it doesn't work. There are a number of locksmiths using products similar. They have been on the market since these keys have been in use. When installin remote starters, if a customer only had one key, we would send them to the local locksmith. Reading up a little more, it looks like they work on fixed code keys, so not the greatest solution the Securilock keys - but possible. There are some other systems out there that will allow a tech into the key programming features. The scan tool that Ford uses is very expensive because it does so much, single function tools are quite a bit cheaper. http://www.americanautolock.com/RW4%20Transponder%20Key%20Duplicator.pdf