jtonkin

Seems like most of the problems stem from one of two causes. 1. Daytime Running Lights (DRL) - While not required in the US but I have heard rumors of it being an option, they are required in Canada and some other countries. The DRLs are pickier with the amount of current used. If you have this feature, do a google search for DRL and HID for solutions. I've heard some people work around the issue with an accessory harness which supplies more current by using a relay to battery power. Others have changed their DRLs to their fogs instead of the low beams. Either way, do you home work first before you take the plunge. 2. Non-digital ballasts - The ballast is the module that bumps up the voltage to the HID bulbs. The cheaper ones like these from DDM are made with simpler ballasts which can cause problems with the car's diagnostics. Bulbs will flicker and go out. Similar to the problems seen with DRLs. I've looked through a bunch of posts and it seems that people work around this issue with Bulb Out Warning (BOW) harnesses or accessory power harnesses. Sometimes they use both. The BOW harnesses trick most cars systems to not see a problem and not give bulb out warnings. Not all cars are the same so not all BOWs will work. This is probably the best reason why you'll hear they do or don't work. Seems more like a crap shoot. If you want to try and save some money and have plenty of time and patience then this option may be ideal for you. The kits are pretty cheap at about $50 a kit, but you'll have to add the other harnesses which will double the price and make your installation more involved and messier. The last option, and one that doesn't have as much about but seems to work the best are digital kits. They are more expensive and different qualities of kits. One or two people have posted about Xtreme HID. The web site looks cheesy but the products and reviews have been good. They are also the most expensive at $225 a kit. This has been a summary of what I've learned in the past day or two. I'll probably go with the digital ones. I've learned that usually if you try and save a buck it will cost later on. Never like to be on the high end but definitely don't want to be on the low end, especially when it comes to your head lights. Safety first!!!! Don't want to be driving down a freeway and your lights go out cuz you went with the $50 kit off Ebay. Be smart and good luck!

Lots of people have been looking for a hack for all Ford vehicles that will remove the lock out features while the vehicle is in motion. It looks like the only way to do it is by buying this module. It's isn't cheap at $239 but it does allow you to do the following: - Add an after market backup camera or an additional camera for the back seat for example. - Allow you to watch and not just hear DVD movie while you are driving. Really more for the passengers than the driver. Hopefully! - Allow nav destination input while vehicle is moving. - Supplies factory compatible "T" harnesses so not cutting and splicing is required. Big plus. Really most of this stuff is for the benefit of the passenger but it is a nice option to have for the driver as well. I can understand why Ford locked out these features while the vehicles are in motion because God knows there are enough bad drivers out there with out adding more distractions into the mix. There are some other things that get locked out too when in motion. Stuff from Sirius Radio. But I don't think they unlock that stuff. In case that link didn't work above, the website is: http://www.coastaletech.com/fusioninstallation.htm I have not tried this device nor am I endorsing it, but I thought it would interest some people on here.

Visteon did for years. For the 2010 it might have been a joint venture between Sony and Visteon. It seems like they only mention Sony when there are 12 speakers involved, which means sony probably just did the amp and Visteon probably did the rest. The six speaker systems are probably just done by Visteon or some other automotive supplier. HD radio has been discussed already. Search for it.

This advice is only for pre-2010 Fusions. These radios have a green text for their display. I had a problem with my wife's 2008 Edge. Not all MP3s would play and it would not read from the thumb drive at all. I installed the latest update from SYNCMYRIDE.com and it fixed the issue. This will only help people who have Sync equipped vehicles. Playing CDs: It will not display any CD/song info from a normal CD. If your radio can play MP3s,(I think it says "MP3"on the front of the radio) it will be able to decode the data from the MP3s and display song titles and artist names as long as that data is attached to the MP3. Use a MP3 tag checker to verify. Otherwise it will just say "no artist". This goes for MP3 CDs and music being played through a thumb drive via the USB port. As for IPODs, I am not 100% sure but I believe the USB port is only used for power. You also have to attach the IPOD to an audio jack (looks like a headphone jack). This jack does not transmit any song info to the radio. It's just like plugging speakers in to your IPOD. Only sound is coming out. Like I said, I'm not 100% certain that's how IPOD work with Ford vehicles. My 2007 Fusion didn't have sync or a usb port but it could play MP3 CDs.

NOPE. I would just use the CD or FM button instead. Or just memorize how many times you have to press the media button to get to what function you want. It's what I did in my 2007.

I tried doing this in my 2007 and there's no way it's gonna happen. There is a lot more wires going in to the nav units. Electrically: there is a big difference in the wire harnesses used. It's integrated with heating and cooling, and there's the antenna for the GPS. Your only option is after market.

Might want to check if your car has TPS. If it does and you throw some after market rims on them, you'll get a low tire pressure error.

I don't think that's going to be easily done unless you do a kill switch for the headlights. You should do this at the fuse for the headlights. Easiest way to do it IMO.

I made the switch as well and noticed no difference... Bummer. :banghead:

See attached. It's light and dark grey striping. It was on the car when I got it. Dealer wanted to charge $50 for it. I told them I didn't think I wanted it so he offered to charge me only $20 if I just kept it on. I'm glad I did. I like it a lot now. BTW it's raining here today so all you get is a garage pic.

Anyone else notice they suck compared to the first gens? I back in to my driveway everyday and when looking in to the side view mirrors, it seems like there's barely any light. I dunno if it's just not a wide angle light like my 2007.

Do the PIAA's last longer than the Silverstars? I was thinking about getting Silverstars until I heard they last for like two months! Screw that! It seems like HIDs are the only way to go unless the PIAAs are any good.

I had a 2007 and had the same problem. I always thought it was the third brake light in the back window that block the light from hitting the sensor. My only gripe about that car. So far I haven't noticed any issue with my 2010 sport with spoiler. Thank God

Found this pdf and thought it'd be useful. You'll need adobe acrobat to view it. It's on Ziebart's website I'm sure in a week people will still post questions asking what's legal... :banghead: :finger:

Check out Lamin-x. They have red tint as well as black tint in pre-cut forms. Pretty easy to install on the Fusion. They'll also send you free samples which I highly recommend before ordering. I changed my mind once I got my samples today. I'm just blacking out my lights but thinking about doing cut outs for the back up lights. BTW, the back up lights on the new Fusion suck compare to the 2007 I just turned in. I back up in to my driveway everyday and there's a lot less light. Luckily I have the backup cam.

Sony Sound Check out this topic closer to the top of the current list of posts. Edit: Link won't work. Thread is called Sony Sound Overload.

I was having the same issue. Not a very good color combo. There is no way to change the color scheme. They shoulda worked with MS a little more on this side of things... I also wish they would allow you to change the dash colors like the Mustangs can.

Drill the 1" hole, or so inside the top storage bin for the new power outlet. Then run the wires down inside the dash to the power outlet in the bottom of the dash. Then notch a small hole on the edge of the top storage bin door for the wire to pass through. Done. Easy enough right? They only trick is figuring out how to get the dash apart.

Read the manual? I usually try to avoid it but it sounds like your only option.

I doubt you'll find anything soon. If you want to replace the stock radio with an aftermarket one, yer looking at a whole new center dash cover. I've seen them for the previous gen Mazda 6. It seems more trouble than it's worth. By the time it's all said and done, the cost difference won't be that far apart. Unless you are planning on expanding your audio system, ie. amp with subs, just go with the factory nav. I love mine with the Premium Sony Sound System.

I just figured something out the other day when I was playing around with my sound system settings. I have the nav system so things might be a little different. To get the best sound with the fullest sound range I use the following settings: First and foremost: The Speed compensated volume (SCV) setting is set to max, 7 in my case. This made the biggest difference. It automatically increases the volume without hitting the Sony cutoff point. I like a lot of bass and this pretty much resulted in a night and day difference once I turned this option on and maxed it out. The volume is basically doubled without sound degradation. Bass: Two down from the top Treble: Two down from the top DSP: Stereo. Surround sound option is pointless unless you are watching a movie? With these settings, the Sony system sounds more like an aftermarket system than the crummy stock system it's default system has it set out to be. It should be noted that these settings are for people who prefer louder music. I don't even have to turn the volume up past half way. I know the original poster only had the bass and treble at pretty much zero, but the SCV setting should really make a difference no matter what your other settings are.

You should check your MP3s with a tag editor. A lot of times that info is missing and only the file name has the info.

Uuurgh, I had channel vent shades in my F-150 and they were horrible. Whenever I rolled the window all the way down and then come up, the window would catch the lip of the shade and snap it. Plus the channel in the truck was a felt-like material so the adhesive was useless. I would prefer the outside mounted ones all day. Less risk.

Guess what boys and girls, power folding mirrors do exist but they are for export only. I'm the engineer that designed the module for Ford. If you really wanted them you could try a Lincoln dealer. The problem is that you might not have the proper wiring harness for it to work. When we ship stuff to Ford export, we send them the harness and a module. The MKZ's mirrors should work on a fusion. They are chrome though which might be a downer. I'm guessing the cost of two replacement mirrors ( with motors), module and wire harness will cost a lot more than it's worth the trouble. :banghead: The module is pretty cool though. The mirrors automatically open when the car is started and close when you turn it off. :beerchug: The only reason Ford is doing this is that it is a government mandate in South Korea and Japan for vehicles of a certain width. Ford is thinking about bringing this to the domestic market. Wouldn't be until 2012 at the earliest though as a dealer installed accessory.

You should check out Lamin-x. It thicker and more resilient than vinyl from what I've heard. I'll be getting tail and head light covers for my 2010 soon enough.