sobayimage

I have a 2009 Fusion Hybrid. When I was rotating the tires I found that the right front wheel would move about 3/8" when it was rocked back and forth. The left front wheel didn't move at all. Is 3/8" a lot of play in a front bearing for a Ford Fusion? I was told it was not a matter of just tightening the wheel nut but the bearing was a unit with the axle. Does the wheel bearing have to be replaced or can it be tightened?

I’ve had my FFH a year now and the windows still show cleaning streaks especially when driving into the afternoon sun. There appears to be some special surface treatment to the glass that attracts dirt very quickly, just hours after washing. Has anyone noticed this with their FFH.

On my FFH radio display I have a message "sync line in" showing up this morning. Does anyone have an idea where in the owner’s guide I can get an explanation for this message?

I had a ‘Twilight Zone’ incident while driving my FFH yesterday. I suddenly heard a woman’s voice though I was alone in the car, the radio was off, the Sirius subscription had expired months ago and I don‘t have On Star. I understood only part of what she said. I comprehended the words “report and push OK”. I fully expected to see Rod Serling appear in the rear view mirror but he wasn’t there. Has anyone had a similar experience while driving a FFH?

My wife wanted only white so, to get white, tri-coat or not, we had to buy a special package, moon roof etc because white only came with the package. This made getting a white FFH about $1800 above any other color.

Many of this forum’s posts are about the problems and operation of their FFH. I would like to hear about what owners would like changed or added in the coming years to the FFH. I have my wish list: - Remove the price penalty for wanting a white FFH. - Adding a operational holder (other than clipping it to the sun visor) compartment for the gate/garage-door opener. Better still have a built-in unit that able to learn any transmitter code. - Have hood struts like those that are standard on the trunk lid. - Have a inside trunk pull-down handle or auto closer to avoid getting your hands dirty when closing the trunk. - Improve rear visibility by making all the models come have a non reflective dark colored shelf behind the rear seat. - Make the trunk floor carpet light in color to make it easier to see things and removable for cleaning. - Make the center armrest longer and foldaway plus put the cup holders inside. - Make wheel well splash guards standard. - Have city-car package with a factory plug-in option with 10 kw-hr lithium ion battery. - I like room when I drive so – get rid of the center console, mount gear shift on steering column and with a foot operated parking brake (auto releases when put in drive). - Have a nostalgia package with selectable two tone paint and rear body fins (just kidding). - Reduce the number of push button controls on the front dashboard with some repositioning and converting some into knobs . Function and safety should out-weigh the design appearance. - Have the turn signal volume adjustable or quieter. - Create a factory Appearance, Convenience and Durability (ACD) optional package – color matched side body bumper guards with door edge protector strips on all four doors – contoured splash mud guards on all wheel wells – removable thick pile carpeted trunk with push button trunk lid closer – plush full coverage floor mats for both front and back – glove compartment courtesy light – folding extendable center armrest – foldable outside mirrors – recessed styled wheels to reduce curb damage.

I thought the same about FFH not accommodating a garage door opener somewhere. I found a use for that little drawer to the left of the steering wheel on the dash. With a 95 cent momentary push button from Radio Shack and about five minutes work, I put the garage door opener in the drawer and the push button on the face of the drawer. It’s easy to reach, even in the dark I can find it and works great. If you are afraid it will spoil the resale value, just buy another drawer insert from Ford and exchange it for the modified one before you sell the car.

Many of the forum posts surrounding the FFH brake problem sound like they come directly from the Ford public relations department. I have a sneaking suspicion Ford is using Internet forum sites to control the damage of the recall by coming out with new wording to describe the recall operation. Ford uses “update a customer satisfaction program", instead of calling it a recall.

I just read in todays LA Times that the Fusion Hybrid is being recalled for a braking problem. I took my car into the dealership this morning and they went online and found out about the recall themselves. They said they would update the computer and have it later today. I experienced only one braking problem 2 months ago and I thought at the time I had missed the brake peddle with my foot . I pushed down and there seemed to be nothing there. I was on the freeway and the car was on cruise control at the time. When I hit the brake peddle nothing happened. I tried again and then the car came off cruise and the brakes engaged. It was a heart stopping 3 seconds.

The hood on my FFH made a tinny clunking sound when it was closed. The rubber hood stops are adjustable and are located by each fender about a foot back from the front of the engine compartment. They have a cork screw construction and are easily adjusted up or down. A half turn of each counter clockwise solved the problem. The hood now closes with a confident solid sound.

There are many links to Flip Key sites. There is one on eBay just enter " 06 2006 FORD FUSION FLIP KEY REMOTE KEYLESS" and it takes you right there. The Flip Key is $39.95 plus shipping.

The only warranty that becomes invald is the warranty on the prop rod itself.

There are no warranty issues. This is similar to tinting your windows. Does the tint invalidate your car warranty?

The Ford Fusion Hybrid comes with a difficult to stow hood support rod. It’s quick and easy to replace it with a set of gas strut hood supports and besides it 2009 not and 1950. They look great and work flawlessly. On the Internet they come in all prices but I’m glad I chose the more expensive ones (about $100 from Redline) because they are straight forward to install and well built. I had never used a pop riveter before but after the first rivet the rest were easy. It was about 30 minutes with a 3/16 drill bit, a tape measure, a swivel riveter, a bit of measuring and it was done. Paying for a quality ($20) rivet gun was worth it. The hood raises itself after opening about a foot and slows to a stop at full opening.

I received my FFH flip-key the other day for $59 with shipping. I tried to get the key cut a Lowes and HomeDepot, one said they didn’t have the right security credentials to cut the key and the other said it wouldn’t fit in their machine properly. In going to the Power Ford dealer in Torrance, where I bought the car, they gave me the line “Our key machine is in for service”, in addition it wasn’t their key. When I took it to a key shop in the next block he quickly unscrewed the key shaft and cut the key. The screws are on each side and are exposed when the shaft is only opened to 45 degrees, not fully open. I gave the shop owner a copy of the programming instructions, that he didn’t have, and in return he said the cutting was free. Sometimes today, the bigger the company the smaller the service. The programming instructions that came with the key were flawless and the ignition and the door remote worked on the first try. The secret to cutting the key is to remove the shaft and going to a real key shop. (see photos to locate the 2 screws ) There are many links to Flip Key sites. There is one on eBay just enter " 06 2006 FORD FUSION FLIP KEY REMOTE KEYLESS" and it takes you right there. The Flip Key is $39.95 plus shipping.

I like my new white tri-coat FFH so much I wanted to show the people behind me the wonderful car that was in front of them. I designed a decal for my Fusion Hybrid rear bumper about 3" x 48". If you want one for your car I’ll email you the 452 KB ai vector graphic file, at no charge, that you can take to your local “Fast Signs” or similar shop (I have no affiliation with any sign shop). For around $50 they can make you one. The lettering is a shadow design so your paint color shows through the letters and the hybrid logo. I don’t know if there is any copyright infringement of the Ford hybrid logo, so only make one for yourself. If you have problems with getting things centered and straight have the shop put it on for you. (sobayimage@netzero.com) With the high quality of paint car manufacturers use today, the risk of fading is non-existent. The clear coat on Ford cars protect color coat below. You can check this by taking off the license plate of most any modern car you'll find the paint has not faded.

I’m not an expert but shocks, springs and tire side walls all contribute to the feeling of a smooth ride. Changing any and all of these components can greatly affect the road feel. 15” wheels with tires of the same outside diameter as the 17” tires on the FFH as well as changing to softer struts can help. This is a pricey solution just to get a smoother ride.

At the cars.gov web site on PDF 4 the last two sentences at the bottom of the page read : "The program requires the scrapping of your eligible trade-in vehicle and that the dealer disclose to you an estimate of the scrap value of your trade-in. The scrap value, minus $50 the dealer keeps for administrative fees, will be in addition to the rebate, and not in place of the rebate. As I read this the dealer can keep $50 of the scrap value of the cash-for-clunkers car and rest goes to the purchaser.

I just picked up my FFH from my local dealer last week under the Cash-for-Clunkers program. I really have enjoyed the car and it’s all it was advertised to be. I don’t know if anyone else had the problem I had when it came to signing the Federal government's paper work. The dealer has to write down the estimated true scrap value of the car turned in and from that the dealer is allowed to keep $50. I was supposed receive the remaining amount as stated on the cars.gov web site. After a few disagreeable moments the dealer relented and said I would get the difference of the stated scrap value. I have yet to receive the money. Has anyone had a problem like this? At the cars.gov web site on PDF 4 the last two sentences at the bottom of the page read : "The program requires the scrapping of your eligible trade-in vehicle and that the dealer disclose to you an estimate of the scrap value of your trade-in. The scrap value, minus $50 the dealer keeps for administrative fees, will be in addition to the rebate, and not in place of the rebate. As I read this the dealer can keep $50 of the scrap value of the cash-for-clunkers car and rest goes to the purchaser.

Making use of the little dash drawer of your FFH. Would you like your garage opener built-in to your dash board. The drawer to the left of the steering wheel on the dash makes a perfect place for your garage door opener unit. Most openers are too large to fit but simply taking the cover off the unit (circuit board and battery holder are one piece on my Genie opener) it fits. You will have to solder two wires across the momentary push button on the circuit board to a separate push button installed in the front of the dash drawer (Radio Shack, momentary switch Catalog #: 275-618 for $2.69). A 3/8 hole must be drilled through the drawer to accept the momentary push button. It would be a great after market item for Ford if they sold a replacement drawer with universal (coded signal from orignal unit programs replacement unit) door opener built-in.

I just got my FFH on a special order, it took six weeks for delivery. Correct me if I am wrong but I think I have 90% of an electric car . The FFH has an electric cooling pump, an electric air conditioner, an electric radiator fan, an electric dash consul, electrically driven steering and an electric driving motor. Remove the ICE, enlarge the battery capacity, plus a charging plug and add electric brakes I would have it.

Ford with all its great wisdom didn’t install a trunk lid pull-down handle on the FFH. For $1.89 from OSH or any hardware store you can make your own FFH pull-down handle. A slight bending of the circular ring cleat (handle) from the hardware store and enlargement of one of holes on the handle is all that is needed to fit the trunk lid. Remove one nut on the right side of the lid locking bracket. Thread the handle through the opening of the emergency opener handle slot and onto the bolt you removed the nut from. Replace the nut and you’re done. Nothing is cut or interferes with the lid operation or the emergency trunk opening pull.