rpreuss

You are right. They give specific components that ARE covered: "high-voltage battery, continuously variable transmission and the DC/DC converter. In addition, the high-voltage battery connector, fan assembly, thermister probe, hybrid battery pack sensor module (HBPSM), and the battery energy control module (BECM) are covered for the Fusion Hybrid" I'm curious if a "high-voltage battery connector" isn't a cable? But to only include certain hybrid components is sneaky. And for jeff_h, what is a "fan assembly"? So, my 2017 Fusion Energi is going on a 3 year lease that should include everything but battery cables. :lol:

I recently had a surprise issue arise with my Fusion Hybrid Warranty. Or lack thereof. While driving my 2010 Fusion Hybrid, the vehicle stalled and I got the dreaded red triangle "Stop Safely Now" warning. Unfortunately, I was already stopped at a light in the middle of a three lane highway. Long story short, the car would not start and I was flat bed towed to the dealer. Ironically, the odometer read 73333.2 miles. After a day, I got a call from the service writer that the High Voltage Battery cable had to be replaced. I was then told that it was not covered by my extended warranty because that Ford ESP Premium Care bumper to bumper warranty excluded batteries and battery cables! I said that had to apply to the 12 V battery and its cables, not this one. Nope, it wasn't covered. A battery cable is a battery cable. Also, there is the Factory Warranty, 8 years/100000 mile for "Hybrid Unique Components". Apparently, the orange High Voltage Battery Cable that goes from the HVB to the engine compartment is not considered by Ford to be a "UNIQUE HYBRID COMPONENT". (Show me one on a regular Fusion!) The cost for the cable is $1104.23!!! For part number 14300 B. And it comes up on their computer as not covered by the warranty because it is a battery cable. In order to replace the cable, the right front seat, complete rear seat, half the carpet, interior trunk panels had to be removed. Also, the AC had to be recovered and recharged after removing the A/C lines to the evaporator for access to the cable. Ironically, the labor charge was only $200.00. Anyway, none of it was covered by the warranty. Has anyone else had the high voltage cable fail and had to pay for it?

Actually, it's not just the hybrids. The manuals for all the Fusions state no towing allowed. It's a different issue with the Escape. There, it is only the hybrid that cannot tow. Most likely for the reasons that lolder stated.

This is from the 2010 FFH Owners Manual 3rd printing page 282. Hope this helps a little. Low and high voltage battery – storage Your vehicle must be started and run for a minimum of 10 minutes once a month in order to maintain the high voltage battery charge. This will maintain the high voltage battery but it is not enough to maintain the low voltage (underhood) battery and additional low voltage (underhood) battery charging may be required after 60 days. If your vehicle is to be stored for 30 days or longer, the low voltage (underhood) battery negative terminal must be disconnected. Failure to do this could damage your vehicle’s batteries.

Ah, those are only the "official" commands. Try saying "I'm hungry" and see what happens. There are more too. :hysterical2:

Have any of you already had the "Black Box" installed? I was wondering 2 things... How did they connect it to the car? (ODB-II plug?) And did they tell you exactly what kind of data they were going to be capturing? My appointment is for next week.

Fog light part is strange, but the DRL's are only supposed to be on when the car is in Drive. I had them turned on by the dealer.

Yesterday, I got a call from Morepace with the same offer. They asked me a few questions to make sure I was keeping the car for a while, and then explained the Black Box, the $150 + $150, and will be sending me the details to participate. I have an appointment in early February at a not-too-local dealership to have the box installed. I have close to 18,000 miles, have never had any problems other than one "reset", and have had the brake re-flash. So, lets keep in touch with this one. We know at least two people that will have the box. Maybe. I too, was told I would meet with a Ford engineer. BTW, this is in New Jersey.

I don't think that is a glitch/bug. It is a "feature" :banghead: . Mine, and I would assume ALL of the Ford Nav systems behave that way. The checkered flag is showing your most recent destination. If you cancel the destination, it goes away. You will note that even though you have the checkered flag showing, there is no route. That was cleared when you "reached your destination."

This works better: http://www.lmgtfy.com/?q=OBD-II+P0010

There is a great video demonstration of the installation of the Lockpick system in a 2010 Fusion at this location. They show you how to disassemble the entire head section. Installation video page Hope this link works. May have to use IE rather than Fire Fox.

I have had the reset, and so has my brother. Several people have referred to a TSB but no one has any details. When I reported the reset to my dealer, the TSB had not been created again. Does anyone have details about this TSB? Is there a firmware upgrade? Did it come out after the "Brake software" upgrade? :eek5:

Last time I went, they also pressure tested my fuel cap. Can't wait to see what they do when they open the door on my gas-cap-less 2010 fusion in 4 more years. (They just granted me a 1 year extension for new cars) :headspin:

Made me get out the PDF for my hybrid. Specifically says not to use E85, diesel, methanol, leaded, etc. Only use UNLEADED (caps are theirs) or a max of 10% ethanol. It only says the engine is designed for 87 octane and it is recommened to NOT use anything below 87 if you are in "a high altitude area". I assume non-hybrids have similar warnings. And of course, flex-fuel engines can use E85. But nowhere does it say you can not use an octane higher than 87. Just that it is designed for 87.

Mine was actually installed in Mexico, after the car was built. They did it in a seperate garage. It arrived at the dealership already to go. I just wish it was the 2-way. But it still has pretty good range. Far better than the Integrated Key Fob.

Here is the diagram for the SJB. Note the "Accessory Delay Relay". This is used to power all the wonderful things that work after you shut off the motor. Power windows, radio, mood lights, etc. They all stop when you open the door or after 10 minutes (or so). SJB.pdf

If the 08 is the same as the 10's, (I am sure it is because my 2004 Freestar is the same way), the "delayed off" accessory line is a circuit from a relay in the SJB. The actual delay is controlled by the SJB. I do not know how the power for your sub and amp is controlled, but I doubt if it is directly from the delayed accessory line. Probably controlled by the radio itself so they are only on when your radio is on. If this was installed by an installer, all you should have to do is have them switch your radio's power from the delayed accessory line to the regular accessory line. And if the sub and amp are not controlled by the radio, then they too, need to be moved from the delayed line to the regular line. For example, the heater/ac fan is on the regular line, so that it cannot run after the ignition is shut off. You want your radio on the same circuit. And note, there is more than one fuse on each of these lines, for different accessory circuits.

On the Fusion, there is no heater control valve. Coolant always circulates through the heater core. It is just done so it does not blow cold air on your feet.

Do you have remote start?

Ha! :beerchug: Michael, Jon is absolutely correct! KISS - Simple is always better. I knew there was an easy way to force the engine to run, but I wasn't sure exactly how simple it was. I just got the service manual on CD from Helm, and found this interesting way. (There is also a way to get it to stay in "Start" or "Crank" mode). Now you made me go out and try it myself to see if it works. I got in on the second try, and then found a couple of tricks. First, as the instructions say, DO NOT START THE CAR. If OFF is position #1, ACC is position #2, RUN is position #3, and START is position #4, be sure to only go to position 3. Also, I found it is far smoother to hold my left foot on the break pedal so I could shift to Drive and back to Park smoothly. Once you have enabled the diagnostic mode and have the flashing wrench, then you have to START the engine. Oh, you should not wait the 5 seconds. After the first 10, I took my foot off the accelerator, shifted to Drive, and immediately floored it again. Why would anyone want to go through all this when all you have to do is just press on the accelerator, like Jon said? First, because it is there. But really, the important reason would be if you were working on the engine and needed to force it to run after you take your foot off the pedal and get out of the car to work under the hood. With Jon's method, as soon as you remove your foot, the engine is free to go back into EV mode. But I like the first reason better. In the service manual there are all kinds of these neat tricks. Enjoy your Hybrid.. Rich

No dust at all. The brakes are hardly ever used. Almost all braking, down to the last 2-5 mph is done using regenerative braking. They are expected to last over 100k miles.

Simple :headspin: From the Service Manual: Engine Running Diagnostic Mode The engine running diagnostic mode is a powertrain control module (PCM) strategy which is separate from the normal operating strategy. When in this mode, the engine is running and does not turn off, as it does during normal operation. The engine RPM may be increased to the desired speed as the vehicle is in the pedal follower mode. To activate the engine running diagnostic mode the gear selector must be in the PARK position, and the ignition cycled to the START position. The engine is allowed to idle as long as the powertrain and hybrid-electric systems operate within the calibrated limits. The powertrain malfunction indicator (wrench) flashing once per second indicates the vehicle is in the engine running diagnostic mode. This mode is helpful whenever the engine must stay running for diagnostics and repairs that require the engine to be idling for extended time. Carry out the following sequence to activate this mode: apply the parking brake place the gear selector in the PARK position ignition in the OFF position NOTICE: Do not start the engine. ignition in the ON position with the engine OFF within 5 seconds of the ignition in the ON position, fully apply the accelerator pedal and hold for 10 seconds within 5 seconds release the accelerator pedal, shift the gear selector to the DRIVE position and fully apply the accelerator pedal hold the accelerator pedal fully applied for 10 seconds release the accelerator pedal and shift the gear selector to the PARK position If the sequence is correctly executed the powertrain malfunction indicator (wrench) flashes once per second when the gear selector is shifted to the PARK position. The engine may be started by cycling the ignition to the START position. The PCM exits the engine running mode when the gear selector is shifted to any gear other than PARK, when the ignition is turned to the OFF or ACC position, or the powertrain or hybrid-electric system exceeds calibrated limits. Good luck. I have not tried it.

Hi Mike, I hate to interrupt this conversation you are having with yourself. (It was interesting and did make me look at my Sync manual). I would suggest that you put the switch in the VCC (+) lead. It's just a better practice to cut the voltage supply rather than the ground. Enjoy. Feel free to continue your conversation. :happy feet:

Confirmed by my dealer. They even had to revise the manual. I don't think this was an intentional design, just one team of engineers not talking to another team. Oops. :finger: It certainly is not the way remote start was intended. To shut off when you get into the car? No. When you step on the brake to shift into gear, yes, but not when entering the car.

I just borrow my neighbor's pick-up truck. :headspin: