Hello,

New here. Wanted to share my recent experience regarding a troublesome problem in hopes that it might benefit someone else.
Apology in advance for the dumb long post...

For several months on and off I have been trying to help my older neighbor with a recurring engine stall problem on his FFH. I don't own a FFH myself (forgive me) but have great interest in hybrid and EV autos and just wanted to share this with the community for the edification of anyone with a similar problem...long story short: a new MECS pump saved the day.

2011 FFH 2.5L w/ 232k miles

Problem: engine shuts down upon increased load/oncoming freeway ramp/sudden hi speed demand/going uphill fast.
Wrench light, warning triangle shows. Sometimes above warnings show during above conditions but engine does not stall (rare).
Only occurs at operating temp.

Codes: P2418 (evap).

I erroneously focused on the P2418 after hearing from a Ford tech that evap purge/vent valve failures can cause a lean fuel condition, leading to stalling.
While this may be true, it was the wrong track in my case. I was unaware of the MECS (motor electronics cooling system) pump being a cause of many problems with the FFH as well as the Ford Escape hybrids of the same era (or close to). Allegedly it caused the same stall condition in the Escapes.

After changing evap purge and vent valves to no avail, and my neighbor suggesting a coolant flush just for maintenance sake, I flushed and replaced the ICE coolant first. I told him to get the Motorcraft Specialty Green VC-5 FIR No. 164315 (concentrate) which we used instead of an Oreilly equivalent which he suggested, but I did not want to use...
The old coolant was a darker green and looked worn out, and when compared to the new luminous bright green coolant, it gave me the idea that the old was greatly out of date. Maybe original? The difference was so evident, I was convinced this would improve something.

I had been researching the subject of coolant in this car and the MECS in particular, so I bought a German Bosch 0392023019 MECS pump online and installed it, flushing and replacing the old coolant in the converter and the old aftermarket MECS pump (Cooper Standard).

It was only at this point in time did I realize I had never before heard the hum of the MECS pump upon turning the key. And of course, the old pump tested bad.

Breathtaking ignorance, I know. What confused me is that there were never any MECS related codes present, which my research made me think should have appeared. I remembered reading posts from others that said they had some sort of coolant codes come up...my cue should have been that his complaint was "only when the engine is warm". No coolant related codes ever appeared. I don't have FORscan so maybe something would have appeared using it.
The more I read about this the more I realize how common of a problem this has been...so perhaps this post is nothing more than old news.

Worst time of the job was getting the 12mm coolant bleed bolt back in, which was in a different location than my repair guidance gave. Basically it's under the brake fluid reservoir, on the top center of the converter, just under the electrical plugs going into the converter. It's a pain to access. The level of coolant in the reservoir did not drop until this bolt was removed, even with the hoses and pump disconnected below.
Pictures for that included for anyone who's interested.

I don't remember how much coolant it took but didn't seem to be as much as it called for...I mixed it in a 1/2 gallon jug and added it in smaller amounts that way, a bit on the strong side, to account for any distilled water still in the system after I flushed it.


 

 
I hope this helps. If I gave any incorrect info, someone please advise.
 
Now, if someone could advise on this P2418 code...
 
Thank you all
DSK
 

Looks like it's this:
https://www.oemfordpart.com/oem-parts/ford-air-deflector-hs7z8310f?c=bD01OCZuPUR5bmFtaWMgU0VPIFBhZ2U%3D
 

The range is based on historical data, so if they reset something, it loses that data.  Are you ACTUALLY only getting 400km a tank, or is it just the display?  If just the display, then don't worry, it will take a tank or two to recalculate.

I don't have this feature but if I had to guess, each tire's TPMS is pre-programmed to its location eg. LR for Left Rear.
Since you moved the tire from the left rear to the left front, the car does not know that. It's displaying the air pressure from the left rear tire, thinking it's still in its original location.

The gas engine for this car is almost like any other gas engine so you should be able to service it at a local mechanic.
I changed the oil myself and it was the same as other cars that I've owned.
 
Your local mechanic should have access to the Ford factory service manuals and data if needed.

I don't have this feature but if I had to guess, each tire's TPMS is pre-programmed to its location eg. LR for Left Rear.
Since you moved the tire from the left rear to the left front, the car does not know that. It's displaying the air pressure from the left rear tire, thinking it's still in its original location.

Thanks. It's always garaged.
I hand wash it and then polish it twice a year too

Yes sir

I have no experience with this but hopefully it will be garaged.
 
I found this blog: https://www.carpro.com/blog/how-to-care-for-your-ev-or-hybrid-when-not-in-regular-use
 
Hope it helps!

Another fun fact, the regular keyfob uses one battery. The pushbutton start keyfob uses 2 batteries, double the cost. 
The 2 battery keyfobs seem to work at a longer distance also. 

My 2014 keyfobs have their original batteries, so 9 years and counting ?
The logical reason is that I have an actual key for the ignition which is why the fob only uses the battery when I press a button.
The push-button ignition Fusions have an 'always-on' fob

I just did the described process (x2) and it worked! Thanks to everyone who chimed in here.

Looks like it's a trend for 2014 Hybrids, irrespective of the mileage. I had to replace mine about a month ago because the car just didn't start.
My 2014 was at 57k miles with the original battery.
Seems like 7 years is a good time to replace it.

How would any source have conclusive data that a car that's only 10 years old now has a battery that won't last more than 15 years?  The Hybrid battery in the Fusion is not like a regular battery.  It has a sophisticated heat management system and a very conservative management strategy.  And it's also not a go / no-go kind of death.  The battery will degrade, but how far would it degrade until one would consider replacing it?  My point is that it would have to degrade to something like 10% of original capacity before it would ever make financial sense to replace in an 10+ year old car.  But the reality seems to be that they degrade to 70-80% and then level off.
 
BTW my 2014 still has the "regular" 12V battery and I sold my 2002 Focus in 2013 with the original battery still in it.  OTOH, my wife's van is a 2018 and is on it's 3rd battery.  And I had to replace the fuel tank in my 11 year old Lincoln a couple years back (mounting surfaces of the fuel pump around the top rusted away).  So bottom line, don't worry about it! 

I now have 100,000 miles on my 2015 FFH, and really nothing new to report since my prior eight-year report. Everything is the same (meaning very good)!
I'll add that I recently didn't use the car for five days, and it started fine on the sixth day (still using the original 12v battery).

I have a 2013 FFH with a bad transmission 142000 miles. While searching for info I came across this forum, I would like to add some info to the transmission swap. I did it on jack stands and it's easier than you would think. Follow the Ford service manual to the tee and take your time.
2013 transmission
DM58 7000 CC FHEV 2.57 
Doner transmission
2017 MKZ build date 9/16
FG98 7000 EA  FHEV 2.57
 
Pictures of failed Transmission



 





The transmission is nothing more than a gearbox controlled by the TCM. I was told as long as the drive ratios are the same I should have no problems. 
The trans swap was successful.
Parts I would recommend changing are 
Transmission damper 
TCM/Transmission cooler 
Hope this helps.

That button will 'lock' your car to its current speed when going downhill so that you don't have to ride the brakes. I forget what the feature is called but you can check on Ford's site.
Hill start assist is separate and will activate automatically when you're on an incline. It'll prevent the car from rolling backwards when you release the brake on an incline.

Same here. Very similar situation except that I had to replace the 12v recently and only 70k miles. No paid repairs for me so far.
Fingers crossed on the transmission.

I took delivery of my 2015 FFH on October 30, 2014, one of the first 2015 models. Now with 97K miles, it displays an overall mpg of 46.0 (actual mpg would be about 2 mpg less). I do the scheduled 10K mile (or one year) service at the dealer, and I've had only one repair to pay for (replacing the steering column control module, $800). The 12v battery is still the original one. The paint still looks great. I am one happy camper.

Found this 2014 Fusion Hybrid Service manual from Car Service Repair Manuals and Wiring Diagrams | Free Online Pdf (cardiagn.com)
I uploaded it here so its easier to download. 
Let me know if it works for you...
 
2014_Fusion Hybrid.zip

I'm sure you're right, but it's become sort of a challenge to see how long it will last ?

The gas engine should have kicked in. I usually don't like idling but sometimes, you need to cool off a bit.
In my experience, the gas engine has kicked in when the battery level gets low.
You may want to test this at home so that you don't have to experience it in the field.

After 9 years of FFH ownership (2013 SE, followed by a 2017 Platinum), I bid a fond farewell to the Fusion and Ford. I loved my Platinum, but it only had 50K miles on it, and I got an offer on a trade that I couldn't refuse. I traded in the FHH on a Toyota Avalon Limited Hybrid. Big changes, a lot to get used to. I will especially miss all of the fantastic information screens showing fuel economy, especially the green leaves growing! But the Avalon is a much larger car, more luxurious even than the Platinum, and it gets the same fuel economy. Over 50K miles, I averaged about 42.3 mpg with the Fusion, and on my first fill-up with the Avalon, I got 42.1 mpg. 
I have enjoyed being a part of this forum, especially when I was new to the Fusion in 2013, up through when I got the 2017. Then things started kind of dying down, and I have been much less active on here lately. 
Good luck to everyone and their FFH's, I will be checking in just to see what's happening. 

If I were you, I'd pay a dealer to inspect the car before buying it. This ensures that there's no issue that you or the seller has missed.
Maybe they can tell you the condition of the battery, brakes, etc.
 
I don't have any experience with transmissions but you should ask if he's had the transmission fluid replaced at all.
Does he have maintenance records?
If you do buy it, you should have the transmission fluid replaced (assuming that the seller has never replaced it.)
 
My Fusion has only 62k miles. If it crosses 150k miles, I'll be happy ?

If I were you, I'd pay a dealer to inspect the car before buying it. This ensures that there's no issue that you or the seller has missed.
Maybe they can tell you the condition of the battery, brakes, etc.
 
I don't have any experience with transmissions but you should ask if he's had the transmission fluid replaced at all.
Does he have maintenance records?
If you do buy it, you should have the transmission fluid replaced (assuming that the seller has never replaced it.)
 
My Fusion has only 62k miles. If it crosses 150k miles, I'll be happy ?